The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
iv been hit by a train!!!!!!!!
Wednesday September 4, 2013 8:14pm
so I have always dreamed of climbing the nose and now that I have, what else can I do with it? A NIAD!!! that is the logical disission so away went the text to Aaron, "NIAD?", and the response was something like "hell yeah!", so I skipped thursday/friday and had a 5 day weekend from hell. we drove up and sat in the medow in aw as usual. it was going to be Aarons first time up el cap and my first push. we were stoked and took another rest day talking to roger and other monkeys. then it was time to go to bed and set the alarm clock for 2:30. when we woke up we made 18 eggs, some cheese, yogert/granola and lots of water. as we got to the base around 4 AM Aaron felt like puking... that went away once we started.so away I went on my first block, I took us to sickle in 1.5 hours. when Aaron arrived on sickle he looked at me and said heres the gear you left behind and handed me 2 small cams! we both laughed and I was astonished that I ONLY left 2 peices in 4 pitchs! then I led the next 2 into the stove legs and it was time for me to jug. as Aaron got us to dolt he was moving slower then expected but never the less got us up there in 3 hrs. I took the pitch off dolt because I enjoyed it so much last time and Aaron got us to el cap tower. I then took us through the texas flake, king swing, grey bands, great roof, and up to camp 5. from the great roof and on it was dark:( we then knew we only had 5 hours and about 7 pitchs to make a NIAD. we were so spent we just slept for 30mins only to awake to rain and we got out rain gear out! the rain gear was 1 emergancy blanket and 5 trash bags. when it stopped Aaron took us to the glowering spot where it was protected and I took us to camp 6. on camp 6 we slept for 3 hrs untill it was light. then I looked at a very tired distrought Aaron (very much like myself!) and I said let me just get us off this route! when my hands touched that tree and I fixed the rope and took off my harness, I was the happiest person ever! then as I waited for Aaron to jug I made some ON TOP calls to, mark hudon and jaysen! I then put my phone away and noticed there was A GALLEN OF WATER 15' over and I drank half of it and could not wait to show Aaron who was equaly as dehydrated as I was. as we made our desent WITHOUT HAUL BAGS I made sure we had a support team with water and food at the manuire pile lot. then we went to the bridge and got wet and talked to the monkeys! so all in all our 31 hour push was intense and a great adventure!

PS: NEVER underestimate your first NIAD attempt!

theres the first look at the rim fire as driving in from wawona.
theres the first look at the rim fire as driving in from wawona.
Credit: whitemeat

dolt tower
dolt tower
Credit: whitemeat
long way to go!
long way to go!
Credit: whitemeat
yep, that would be the sun!
yep, that would be the sun!
Credit: whitemeat
Aaron fllowing pitch after dolt! my shoes are the same color as the ai...
Aaron fllowing pitch after dolt! my shoes are the same color as the air!
Credit: whitemeat
Credit: whitemeat
el cap tower!
el cap tower!
Credit: whitemeat

grey bands:(
grey bands:(
Credit: whitemeat
great roof!
great roof!
Credit: whitemeat
smoke clearing a bit!
smoke clearing a bit!
Credit: whitemeat
Aaron following the roof!
Aaron following the roof!
Credit: whitemeat

I will surely be back and CRUSH the NIAD!!!

as the night came in I stopped with pics but Aaron has some top pics and stuff! comment the pics Aaron!

  Trip Report Views: 2,841
whitemeat
About the Author
whitemeat is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA.

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Sep 4, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
All hail the Meat Buzz! Thumbs up!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Sep 4, 2013 - 08:22pm PT
Crush.
Kill.
Destroy.












Guffaw.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Sep 4, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
Ah ah ah ah

Susan
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Sep 4, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
everywhere, there's green lights!
faster.
sooner.
smoother.
eat her.

me?
i just am content potty-training an infant.

im a bugger on the nose.
everytime i get ejected about pitch six.
it's like the stovelegs are hairs
and im sediment.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Sep 4, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
You guys are having way too much fun.
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
  Sep 4, 2013 - 08:59pm PT
Great job, but only five trash bags?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 4, 2013 - 09:01pm PT
Smoke? What smoke? No problem
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Sep 4, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
im confused--is this kiddie porn?
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Sep 4, 2013 - 09:03pm PT
gettin' it done!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Sep 4, 2013 - 10:25pm PT
Dust off those sailin' shoes.


For some reason I love this pic:


long way to go!
long way to go!
Credit: whitemeat
rnevius

Trad climber
The Range of Light
  Sep 4, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
Stoked for both of you! Great job Aaron and Mickey! Keep at it! I hope to see you around in the next couple months.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Sep 4, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
apocalypse happening and all you guys can do is play around
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Sep 4, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
Y'all are gonna ruin your health climbing in that smoke!
LuckyPink

climber
the last bivy
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:04pm PT
Good on ya ! great TR
sullly

Trad climber
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:05pm PT
Again the lad from SLO is anything but slow.


Tami: Your Will Robinson and The Robot reference ("crush, kill, destroy") had me laughing.
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:38pm PT
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Splitterz
Splitterz
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:46pm PT
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Weeee!!!
Weeee!!!
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:50pm PT
Whitemeat lol
Whitemeat lol
Credit: Aaron Stireman
happy to be here!
happy to be here!
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Shoulda used siege tactics. But luckily someone left us this gallon at...
Shoulda used siege tactics. But luckily someone left us this gallon at the top. We NEEDED IT. Badly. About 10 hours ago.
Credit: Aaron Stireman
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Sep 4, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
Shoulda got some pics of wearing the trash bags after the rain hit at camp 5. I swear I was wearing one for half the route
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Sep 5, 2013 - 01:02am PT
TFPU a climbing topic!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Sep 5, 2013 - 04:29am PT
That was not standard white meat.

That was more turkey roulade stuffed with cranberries and raisins.

Gourmet cookin' from the Stovelegs Cafe.

Coffee, gents?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Sep 5, 2013 - 04:49am PT
Crush, Kill, Destroy, yeah, I'd say! Good work, you're guys are inspiring!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Sep 5, 2013 - 06:11am PT
Sweet Meat!
Now if your writing/spelling skills were as bold as your climbing skills you'd be golden.
Sorry, it's the teacher in me, had to say something.
TFPU
Tad
Deekaid

climber
  Sep 5, 2013 - 08:53am PT
He has to be doing it on purpose...doesn't every computer have spell-check?

Nice climbing.
Aaron Stireman

Gym climber
Siege tactics
  Sep 6, 2013 - 01:33am PT
T Hocking:

http://www.memecenter.com/fun/623297/this-goes-out-to-all-the-grammar-nazis

Lol just kidding man, ya his spelling is painful, but he is a rad wall partner. He left 2 small cams in the first 4 pitches, and got us to Sickle ledge in under 1:30. Rad guy
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Sep 5, 2013 - 09:19am PT
Ya boyz!!! You're killing it! Living the dream buddy. I can smell the stoke all the way up in Squamish!

Thanks.

Keep at it!

Weege. We can send this puppy!! Gimme another winter to strength train and we'll get er done.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 5, 2013 - 11:11am PT
This is a sweet little train you hit by it. I think you will get hit by it many times, but it will keep on getting easier. At some point this trail will hit you in a pleasant way I believe. lol
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 5, 2013 - 11:38am PT
Outstanding, you guys! I can't believe you even attempted it with all the smoke, heat and uncertain weather. . . and you even you some fine pics to share with us.

Thank you very much.

John
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Sep 5, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Wow, the stoke is palpable.

Nice work guys!
Jaysen

Trad climber
NY
  Sep 5, 2013 - 02:15pm PT
we both laughed and I was astonished that I ONLY left 2 peices in 4 pitchs!

So stoked for you buddy, wish it couldhave been with me! Although after jugging that we would have had a short talk, i want you to be alive when I come back to the valley Mickey!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Sep 5, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Hey Mickey,

Here's a little anecdote about backcleaning:

In late Sept '03 I was on Zodiac, during an insane heatwave. We were cooked, rationing water, and wanted to get the hell off the thing before we shriveled up and died.

So I was moving as quick as I could, backcleaning almost everything, linking pitches, etc. Was about halfway up the pitch and 35' out from a ledge, placed an offset alien in a pin scar, looked at it, bomber. Clipped in my aider, twisted in a fingerlock, unclipped from the lower piece and was about to clean it. Yanked on the upper aider once and POP!. There I was, worked, looking at a 70 footer, with a ledge to hit halfway down, in approach shoes, on 5.11 terrain, with a wall rack on my shoulers, and a single fingerlock keeping me from taking the ride. I clipped back to that lower piece, slumped onto it and almost puked. The piece that pulled looked absolutely bomber.

Be careful up there. No prize for 30hr 4min instead of 31hrs.

And nice work up there. You're having a great season.

ElCapPirate

Big Wall climber
Reno, Nevada
  Sep 5, 2013 - 06:13pm PT
Good job, guys!

I ONLY left 2 peices in 4 pitchs!

I also would like to comment on this. I used to think that backcleaning was important if you wanted to go fast. Like ElCapinYoAzz, I too had a few VERY scary moment and realized it's just not worth it to cut corners.

After a few years of speed climbing I learned a few things:

1) I was WAY more comfortable with solid gear in and would actually climb faster with more confidence.

2) My gear rack was getting lighter as I climbed when I left more protection, allowing me to climb faster the higher on the pitch I got.

3) It was actually slowing me down to backclean, rather than just clip the rope to the piece. (Unless you are using it for the next placement or you need it higher)

4) I had a lot more focus on what I needed to do for upward movement rather than constantly looking down and worrying about taking a big fall because of no protection.

Have fun... but, protect yourself when you can. Like "InYoAZZ", I've seen absolutely bomber looking pieces blow under body weight.

Thanks for the TR, I bet you'll be blasting up those routes soon.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Sep 5, 2013 - 03:50pm PT
hey there say, whitemeat... wow, neat report, full of your enthusiam, for sure... and great pics, though i have only been able to see two so far, MY fault, not yours, i have dial up, :))


say, nice advice added on, i see too ...

thank for sharing...
:)
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Sep 6, 2013 - 05:09am PT
10four, big mike.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Sep 6, 2013 - 05:31am PT
Hell of a season you are having!

In one season you've managed as much Wall experience as I have in 20! Keep it up!

So perhaps I don't have much cachet in a bit of advice I am still going to put out there.. I certainly am not mentioning it to rain on your parade.. Cause I'm stoked just reading every TR you put up,, very very stoked and excited for you guys.

Just a little thing though. A mindset. Hell you've probably heard this before many times..lol Take advantage of any chance you get to back yourself up especially if its simple fast and free, ie pro , double checking your knots, anchors, tie-ins. Somewhere along the line it WILL save your arse. Be like Donini someday (old and badass) .. he recently was caught (saved) by a backup sling he almost didn't take the extra 10 seconds to clip.

Oh and holy crap! those pics through the smoke are really cool,,, unique!
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Sep 6, 2013 - 05:31am PT
YouzDadzCrankTheRadz!

:-)

TFPU!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Sep 6, 2013 - 10:07am PT
great stoke.

please god show this kid a spell-check function. "disission"?! it goes on from there...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Sep 6, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
^^^
Right? Maybe shouldn't have skipped those days of school!

"yogert"
"gallen"
"manuire"
"distrought"
"emergancy"
"pitchs"
"equaly"
"disission"

Dang, bro, step up your education game to match your climbing skills.

So what's next on the list? Mescalito is five-star, hint hint.
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Sep 6, 2013 - 10:26am PT
Dang, bro, step up your education game to match your climbing skills.

Yeah, do it SOON. . . or you'll never get it!

There's nothing more powerful than fully understanding your native language!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Sep 6, 2013 - 07:10pm PT
...or being understood in it.
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El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
Photo: Mark Kroese
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