Farley 5.9

Currently 4.0/5

Sugarloaf

Lake Tahoe, California, USA

Trip Report

farley t.r.

Friday November 25, 2011 12:40pm

a cheap date for the wife and i,
beers sandwhiches, strenuous hiking and a rope solo pitch.


	Credit: Norwegian

brought the dog along too.


	Credit: Norwegian

flanking the slack on my harness


	Credit: Norwegian

first time i've rope soloed this pitch.
kinda like doing it again for the first time.


	Credit: Norwegian

cali weather has been kind and free


	Credit: Norwegian


	Credit: Norwegian

our silent partner holds answers to questions i've yet unspun.


	Credit: Norwegian


	Credit: Norwegian

a trickle of water lubed the crux.


	Credit: Norwegian

anchors achieved.


	Credit: Norwegian

, just norwegian

break the day’s spine
with one crooked vision.
bend the hallways of time
with a crooked gait.
dull love’s sting
with a crooked heart.
confuse the cowards
with a crooked grin.

still two more pitches above,
good chimney and knobby wall finish.
no photos here.

Trip Report Views: 1,794

Norwegian

About the Author
Norwegian is a trad climber from Placerville, California.

Comments

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Comment on this Trip Report

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Nov 25, 2011 - 12:43pm PT

Good stuff!!!

skipt

Mountain climber

Washington

Nov 25, 2011 - 12:48pm PT

That was excellent.

Skip

Riley Wyna

Trad climber

A crack near you

Nov 25, 2011 - 12:57pm PT

Nice..
I loved that lay back pitch

Jingy

climber

Somewhere out there

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:06pm PT

Very Cool

Rope Solo..

Very cool

Good Job Nor

Darwin

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:10pm PT

Damn. That wouldn't be an easy roped solo, at least for me. Kind of burly to hang in there to get the pro in and deal with the two halves of the solo rope.

Nice climb and thanks for the photos.

Darwin

Ron Anderson

Trad climber

Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:14pm PT

Saweet man!

eKat

Mountain climber

Less than a second shy of 49 minutes

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:52pm PT

YAY!

TFPUSWTSP!

:-)

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber

WA, & NC & Idaho

Nov 25, 2011 - 01:53pm PT

Gneiss!!!

ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber

Nov 25, 2011 - 02:17pm PT

Like somebody said - a way of keeping yourself in the present moment. I think you had posted your rope-solo set up before, no? Interesting look with the coils trailing - sketchy when they snag on something I bet.

Mark Hudon

Trad climber

Hood River, OR

Nov 25, 2011 - 02:27pm PT

Sugarloaf was always my favorite cliff down that way.

cowpoke

climber

Nov 28, 2011 - 08:39am PT

looks like a really fun day!

Prod

Trad climber

Nov 28, 2011 - 08:43am PT

Yo,

Nice stuff. When did you switch from mini trax to a silent partner? Do you like it better? Ever aid with it?

Prod.

Dos XX

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Nov 28, 2011 - 08:54am PT

Fabulous rock & TR. Just wish I'd seen it sooner.

sullly

Trad climber

Nov 28, 2011 - 09:00am PT

I appreciate this TRs shirtless aspect.

jopay

climber

so.il

Nov 28, 2011 - 09:15am PT

Nice report and I notice you're still using rigid Friends, I have a whole rack with some doubles, but I get shamed when I mention them, so was thinking of some Helium Friends but maybe I should save my money, they saved my hide plenty of times.

Norwegian

Trad climber

the tip of god's middle finger

Author's Reply

Nov 28, 2011 - 02:55pm PT

prod,
i've always used the silent partner device.
before that it was just a standard clove hitch that i manually
advanced.

i haven't aided with the silent partner yet,
though i would not hesitate.
it's a good clamp on the rope and stays out of your way
just fine.

it does take a spell of time to acquaint with it.

salud,

edit,
biotch,
i posted up a trip report on The Line,
with some rope solo setup pictures.

Zander

climber

Nov 28, 2011 - 05:29pm PT

Good read the second time too.

I got off route on the second pitch. I know, I know its a frickin corner! There was a bunch of slings so I went left out of the corner after about half way. I made it though. Knobby wall pitch is good.
Woo hoo!
Z

Matt Thomsen

Big Wall climber

Places

Nov 28, 2011 - 06:09pm PT

I could solo your entire life...

Not that I would want too.

Look at his post.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1269758&msg=1270926#msg1270926Bold Text**

ImplicitD

Trad climber

Boise

Feb 25, 2012 - 12:44pm PT

Chuck, Im on ST now! Kinda funny haw? Did a hard little runout 10a on basalt yesterday...scary but fun.

How are you?

Norwegian

Trad climber

the tip of god's middle finger

Author's Reply

Feb 25, 2012 - 01:31pm PT

hey d,
be right back with some cordiallity,

matt thompson, care to make it interesting?
if you can match my strides for a day of
roped soloing (i.e. no falls), i'll pay you 500 bucks.
it's all i got to waste.

my times, my crags, my pitches.
24 hours, no more.
if you can't keep up, you don't gotta pay me nothing.
stand behind your words little boy.

oh, and im talking free climbing.
anyone can stand in aiders pitch after pitch...

RP3

Big Wall climber

El Portal/Chapel Hill

Feb 25, 2012 - 01:30pm PT

Good times at the Loaf! That climb is so awesome....

Norwegian

Trad climber

the tip of god's middle finger

Author's Reply

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:10pm PT

hey thompson!
im curious if you've received my challenge.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Feb 26, 2012 - 07:30pm PT

Nice! Ten thousand Swedes running thru the trees, chased by one Norwegian.

D Fred

Trad climber

san francisco, ca

Dec 1, 2012 - 11:49pm PT

great trip report... way back when i didn't know any better i promised my wife (who doesn't climb) that i would not climb on the weekends and since have lived in a world of trying to find mid-week climbing partners. and that silent partner hook-up looks great... i just haven't had the cojones to jump into that world yet, but your TRs on this and the line have given me a little inspiration, thanks for the photos and the close-ups of the set-up, very smooth

cheers!