Farley 5.9

  • Currently 4.0/5


Lake Tahoe, California, USA

Trip Report
farley t.r.
Friday November 25, 2011 3:40pm
a cheap date for the wife and i,
beers sandwhiches, strenuous hiking and a rope solo pitch.
Credit: Norwegian
brought the dog along too.
Credit: Norwegian
flanking the slack on my harness
Credit: Norwegian
first time i've rope soloed this pitch.
kinda like doing it again for the first time.
Credit: Norwegian
cali weather has been kind and free
Credit: Norwegian
Credit: Norwegian
our silent partner holds answers to questions i've yet unspun.
Credit: Norwegian
Credit: Norwegian
a trickle of water lubed the crux.
Credit: Norwegian
anchors achieved.
Credit: Norwegian

, just norwegian

break the days spine
with one crooked vision.
bend the hallways of time
with a crooked gait.
dull loves sting
with a crooked heart.
confuse the cowards
with a crooked grin.

still two more pitches above,
good chimney and knobby wall finish.
no photos here.

  Trip Report Views: 3,901
About the Author
Norwegian is a trad climber from dancin on the tip of god's middle finger.


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Nov 25, 2011 - 03:43pm PT
Good stuff!!!

Random Nobody
  Nov 25, 2011 - 04:06pm PT
Very Cool

Rope Solo..

Very cool

Good Job Nor

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Nov 25, 2011 - 04:10pm PT

Damn. That wouldn't be an easy roped solo, at least for me. Kind of burly to hang in there to get the pro in and deal with the two halves of the solo rope.

Nice climb and thanks for the photos.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 25, 2011 - 04:53pm PT

Boulder climber
  Nov 25, 2011 - 05:17pm PT
Like somebody said - a way of keeping yourself in the present moment. I think you had posted your rope-solo set up before, no? Interesting look with the coils trailing - sketchy when they snag on something I bet.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
On the road.
  Nov 25, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
Sugarloaf was always my favorite cliff down that way.

  Nov 28, 2011 - 11:39am PT
looks like a really fun day!

Trad climber
  Nov 28, 2011 - 11:43am PT

Nice stuff. When did you switch from mini trax to a silent partner? Do you like it better? Ever aid with it?

Dos XX

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Nov 28, 2011 - 11:54am PT
Fabulous rock & TR. Just wish I'd seen it sooner.

  Nov 28, 2011 - 12:15pm PT
Nice report and I notice you're still using rigid Friends, I have a whole rack with some doubles, but I get shamed when I mention them, so was thinking of some Helium Friends but maybe I should save my money, they saved my hide plenty of times.

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Author's Reply  Nov 28, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
i've always used the silent partner device.
before that it was just a standard clove hitch that i manually

i haven't aided with the silent partner yet,
though i would not hesitate.
it's a good clamp on the rope and stays out of your way
just fine.

it does take a spell of time to acquaint with it.


i posted up a trip report on The Line,
with some rope solo setup pictures.

  Nov 28, 2011 - 08:29pm PT
Good read the second time too.

I got off route on the second pitch. I know, I know its a frickin corner! There was a bunch of slings so I went left out of the corner after about half way. I made it though. Knobby wall pitch is good.
Woo hoo!

Trad climber
  Feb 25, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
Chuck, Im on ST now! Kinda funny haw? Did a hard little runout 10a on basalt yesterday...scary but fun.

How are you?

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2012 - 04:31pm PT
hey d,
be right back with some cordiallity,

matt thompson, care to make it interesting?
if you can match my strides for a day of
roped soloing (i.e. no falls), i'll pay you 500 bucks.
it's all i got to waste.

my times, my crags, my pitches.
24 hours, no more.
if you can't keep up, you don't gotta pay me nothing.
stand behind your words little boy.

oh, and im talking free climbing.
anyone can stand in aiders pitch after pitch...

Big Wall climber
Newbury Park
  Feb 25, 2012 - 04:30pm PT
Good times at the Loaf! That climb is so awesome....

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Author's Reply  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:10pm PT
hey thompson!
im curious if you've received my challenge.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Feb 26, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
Nice! Ten thousand Swedes running thru the trees, chased by one Norwegian.
D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
  Dec 2, 2012 - 02:49am PT
great trip report... way back when i didn't know any better i promised my wife (who doesn't climb) that i would not climb on the weekends and since have lived in a world of trying to find mid-week climbing partners. and that silent partner hook-up looks great... i just haven't had the cojones to jump into that world yet, but your TRs on this and the line have given me a little inspiration, thanks for the photos and the close-ups of the set-up, very smooth

Stewart Johnson

Gym climber
top lake
  Dec 2, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
wut happened up higher?
Johnny K.

  Jul 16, 2013 - 07:28pm PT
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Nov 11, 2013 - 10:20pm PT
^^^amen sister eKat, perhaps CV and I will visit you some cold dark winter for a little skiing about your woods?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Nov 11, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Anyone else think week looks like kid rock in this tr
Sugarloaf - Farley 5.9 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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