Trip Report
deception 5.6, hogsback, lovers leap TR
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Sunday June 26, 2011 2:01pm
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Did deception on 6/22/11.... was an ok climb, did every variation on it just about. Can be done in 2 pitches, just put slings on every peice,or your rope drag will be a bitc*.
break down
P1: if you want less rope drag only need one peice on the staircase walk-up put a double sling on it then climb up onto the ledge you can belay from here if you want to make the climb 3 pitches with the last pitch only being 20 or 30 feet or keep climbing up to a nice flake stance about 10' low and right were the 3x3 flake that came off. for the anchor use a #13 stopper #3 cam and a #.75 or #1 cam P2:if you want to keep the route 5.6 go left or if you want to work on somthing just a little harder go right up the large flake to a 5.7+ finger crack place pro shallow or you might lose it, so to keep it from walking in by putting a long sling on it. after the finger crack go left to the normal crack and follow it up. also about 50' from the top there some fun but run out 5.7 face moves on nice dike,after the face moves go back right were you will get you first piece after the face moves. from here go to the top to a nice 10x10 ledge for your belay.
nate2655
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About the Author nate2655 is a trad climber from gardnerville, nevada. |
Comments
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 27, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
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Nice TR. It's good to know there are some more challenging variations on this route, I'll have to get on it one of these days.
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Tallskinny
Sport climber
Placerville, CA
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Jun 30, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
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The straightup variation to Deception was once rated 5.8, because of a thin set of movements up an incipient crack (and associated blank face) that will only take a very small wired stopper. Note that in recent guide, rating here has been upped to a well-founded 5.9.
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Hosh11
Sport climber
carson city
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Oct 23, 2011 - 09:36am PT
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so i totally read through this to see what other people thought on the route before realizing this was a report on our own climb....
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The route as seen from Highway 50. Photo: Chris McNamara
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the route as seen from Highway 50. |
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