Trip Report
aiding around Washoe Boulders
Thursday June 12, 2014 10:38pm
It was a bright and sunny Thursday, in the land of lollipop flowers and milk chocolate rivers that never end... or so I was dreaming when the tire guy fired his inflator cannon. As my body jerked awake like a fish out of water and my forehead made abrupt contact with the greasy driveshaft of the truck I was working on before nodding off, I became painfully aware of the difference between living the american reality and dreaming of the american ideal. Time to climb something!
What better place to snooze than under the axle?
What better place to snooze than under the axle?
Credit: jonnyrig
After slogging through the rest of my day working (let's call it that...) I grabbed the dog and a PBR and headed up to Washoe Boulders for some non-bouldering kind of fun and games.
The dog... climbs better than I do.
The dog... climbs better than I do.
Credit: jonnyrig
I looked here; but there were no lower anchors.
If a rock falls on a climber in the desert and there's nobody around t...
If a rock falls on a climber in the desert and there's nobody around to hold his beer, who splits his gear?
Credit: jonnyrig
I thought about here; but my truck can't swim.
South Point, HI. Don't belly flop, and keep your legs crossed when you...
South Point, HI. Don't belly flop, and keep your legs crossed when you splash down, trust me...
Credit: jonnyrig
So I decided to aid my way up this:
Dude... it goes free... with a pad! And yer gona aid it?!
Dude... it goes free... with a pad! And yer gona aid it?!
Credit: jonnyrig
Now, I don't have one of those mattress thingy's, and lots of this volcanic peanut brittle isn't amenable to ground-level anchors without a Bosch and some 5-piece rawls, so I improvised with a 5-piece clusterf&%k instead. That's 4 mediocre hexes marginally placed, one small bomber nut behind a potentially loose block, and the smallest wedge in my Camp set to hold the BHK master point in place, you know, so the hexes don't fall out.
well, part of it anyway
well, part of it anyway
Credit: jonnyrig
Bomber! as in tick... tick... tick...
Bomber! as in tick... tick... tick...
Credit: jonnyrig
Now the crack itself goes clean, but I need all the practice I can get aiding. Catching the aiders in everything except my feet. Need a spare hand to get my foot in a loop. First marginal piece in eight feet up, which is like, half the route... Don't even think of falling on it! Took more time to build the anchor (there's a website or a thread for that kind of cluster) than it did to aid the whole 25 feet of aidable crack. It's clear that I'm slow and angsty, which made my head hurt. Or was it the bump from the truck earlier? I digress. I progressed. Upward ho!
looking back... at what could have been... a grounder. but dude... che...
looking back... at what could have been... a grounder. but dude... check that awesome multi-piece anchor! It might even hold
Credit: jonnyrig
it's all about the perspective. and my arms too short for a butt-selfi...
it's all about the perspective. and my arms too short for a butt-selfie
Credit: jonnyrig
At last, I reach the end of aid and hit the easy top-out-in-too-loose-for-rock-climbing-work-boots. Yay me!
yo... is that my aider down there? crap.
yo... is that my aider down there? crap.
Credit: jonnyrig
shadow selfie
shadow selfie
Credit: jonnyrig
Rap down, clean, pull rope, and celebrate a marginal climb with a marginally warm marginal beerish beverage.
cheers for beers and climbing gears!
cheers for beers and climbing gears!
Credit: jonnyrig
All in all, a much better way to spend a three hour tour than watching youtube vids of people who can ACTUALLY climb, and drink real beer. Weather permitting (and kids, job, wife and wallet) I think I'll try it again some time. Maybe even on something as tall as 50 feet.

  Trip Report Views: 349
jonnyrig
About the Author
jonnyrig is a trad climber from formerly known as hillrat. Someday, he might grow up and realize that claiming moderation in a gun thread just puts him in the crossfire. Or that some questions need no answer, especially when asked about any combination of weight and fashion. Life is good.

Comments
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 12, 2014 - 11:02pm PT
choss ++
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Jun 12, 2014 - 11:18pm PT
Fun read!

TFPU

Andrzej
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 13, 2014 - 03:50am PT
GNAR, you and the Larry should drink some PBRs together!!!!!!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jun 13, 2014 - 05:54am PT
Thanks J-Rig!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 13, 2014 - 08:45am PT
Fun....have to be creative sometimes.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 13, 2014 - 11:00am PT
Weather permitting (and kids, job, wife and wallet) I think I'll try it again some time.

I can relate, except that I substitute "in-laws" for "kids" (because our daughters are adults, but we're taking care of my wife's folks). I love those who can find a way to go off the beaten path, even if they appear to be on one. Great fun to read this. Thanks much.

John
jonnyrig

climber
Author's Reply  Jun 13, 2014 - 02:18pm PT
Thanks for the comments! Nice to have a positive response to my first TR. Thought I was going to wait until I made a noteworthy trip, but the way things are I'd be retired and feeble by then. Best to start small and set lofty goals anyway. There's always hope for a fjord climbing trip in Norway...?
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