Surrealistic Pillar Direct 5.10b

 
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Lover's Leap, Lower Buttress


Lake Tahoe, California, USA


Trip Report
a wee whipper, off the couch and rope solo on surrealistic pillar derelect direct
Thursday July 18, 2013 10:09pm
boring as shite but
it's a slight improvement
over my aimless and
off topic prose of usual.

the clip vaguely illustrates
the mechanics of travel
for the silent partner's partner,
plus the last frames show
the anchor catching the fall.

i retreated from this route
which is overhanging at the crux,
so i couldn't really secure
a stance to reel the 20' of
slack back in before heading
off for another attempt at the crux.







  Trip Report Views: 1,324
Norwegian
About the Author
Norwegian is a trad climber from dancin on the tip of god's middle finger.

Comments
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eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 18, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Dood. . . unprivatize the suckerfish!

:-)
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Author's Reply  Jul 18, 2013 - 10:42pm PT
fixed it.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jul 18, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
hey there say, norwegian... can't see it, so can't tell what this is...

sounded interesting though, ;)

god bless to you eve!
:)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 18, 2013 - 11:29pm PT
pretty soft fall...
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 19, 2013 - 01:10am PT
If I were you, I would solo up the 5.7, set a line, and minitraxion that about 4X in 15 minutes.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 19, 2013 - 01:13am PT
Never heard of this pillar? LMAO! ;-)
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Jul 19, 2013 - 01:22am PT
I got like 3 minutes in before the hypnotic, swinging rope put me to sleep.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Author's Reply  Jul 19, 2013 - 07:53am PT
mccreel i ended up soloing up the
1st proper pitch of surrealistic
and rapped down to clean my gear.
i did top rope the stunt, clean.

like i said, ed. wee whipper.
upon further review by my esteemed peers,
i now officially demote
the fall to
'wee wanker whipper.'

eric, like i said,
super boring flick.

as a soloist,
it is difficult to document my efforts,
so this was an experiment with the go-pro.

total flop,
though i yearn for the entire
world to know of my astuteness and
viral fortitude,
so now you all are informed,
except neebee she couldn't see
it but she always gives us
the benefit of the doubt.

mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 19, 2013 - 07:43am PT
That film is destined to become a reference point in history of the climbing buttshot.

Heh, heh, just joking, of course.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
  Jul 19, 2013 - 08:01am PT
Nice run at it Weege!

I used to do something similar relative to hanging stacks of rope on my harness, but gave it up as untenable having the rope everywhere and the weight hanging off me. Also never came to terms with the size of the SP despite the brilliant design and engineering involved with it.

So, for the past decade (or whenever it first came out) I've used an Edelrid Eddy with the rope in a backpack which works better for me than all the other approaches I've tried over the years, but off course it's definitely a YMMV sort of deal.

Credit: healyje
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 19, 2013 - 09:28am PT
I use the same setup, healyje, having profited from some of your past posts. Rope soloing can actually be pretty fun - I solo up the easiest route around, then minitraxion everything I can get to. It's a good workout, no off time belaying. I work on my social skills by posting on the internet.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jul 19, 2013 - 10:00am PT
New Thread Topic occurred to me here.

What Grateful Dead Song Were You Listening to Right When You Thought I AM Gonna Die!?

Good effort, DMT JR.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jul 19, 2013 - 11:54am PT
not casting aspersions here, 'wege...

a fall is a fall, once you submit to the causal chain probable futures await each subsequent action...
...in this case, you bounce softly onto the cord... better than a bounce onto the ground.


as for cinematography, there were some nice effects (like the pendulous rope) and some cautions (like the autofocus)

Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jul 19, 2013 - 01:24pm PT
I can dig it, though your method looks potentially snarly with cords.
Nevertheless, good share man.
MtnSavior

Mountain climber
El Paso, TX
  Jul 19, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Nice one, led it during the heat wave at the end of june. Thing was greasy and full of bees, and no wind hit the corners so it was a sweatbox.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 19, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Still BALSY to rope solo 10s imo..;-)
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Author's Reply  Jul 21, 2013 - 04:19pm PT
mouse im just finishing my response to
your inquiry,
it took me all of fourty eight plus hours.

it was bertha.
i had a feeling i was falling!




and, though im flattered of your suggested
relation between a keen writer (DMT) and i,

i truely come from a long line of charles',
i sport an i.v. at the suffix of my name.

though not quite a king am i,
i have a needle or two.
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Jul 22, 2013 - 11:13am PT
weeg,

from one rope solo artist to another,
I admire your innovative, adventurous spirit!

Very cool.
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 22, 2013 - 11:22am PT
Weeg's enthusiasm, alone, makes all the work we put into that sucker worth it!

DIG IT!

:-)
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