Chingando 5.10

 
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Reed's Pinnacle


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Yosemite Valley - Chingando trip report
Thursday November 30, 2006 2:27am
In the 1994 "Yosesmite Climbs" guide by Don Reid on page 74 the climb Chingando 5.10a has the notation "Part of the Hardman Offwidth Training Circuit." I have looked and this is the first edition in which that notation appears for the "topo" guides. Searching the rest of the book also reveals that the rest of the "training circuit" is unidentified. This is not good, as one's imagination can cook up a brutal circuit to train on... which is where we are right now.

"We" in this case consists mostly of Gary and me... with our friends thrown in on the occasional trip to the Valley. Last weekend, 11/25/06, we day tripped up to the Valley to do Chingando, with Steve and George. George has at least been to some offwidth sessions on Gary's excellent crack machine. Steve was coming off the couch, and as usual, was game for anything.

Roper's green guide has this to say:

Chingando
I, 5.10. This difficult one-pitch climb was first led by Chuck Pratt in June 1965. Chingando is the 150-foot jamcrack on the outer face of the Iota. Hardware: 6 pitons, 1 1/2" to 3".

In his "Camp 4" he writes (on page 197) "Another developing trend in 1965 concerned difficult crack climbing. Pratt stood head and shoulders above anyone else in this department, establishing routes such as Entrance Exam, Chingando, Twilight Zone and the left side of the Slack. All these routes involved difficult, off-width jamcracks -- and all were either 5.9 or 5.10. It was Pratt's biggest year, with ten first ascents recorded."

Modern alterations to this route consist solely of the belay station about 115-feet above the commodious belay ledge under the crack, south facing, it gets sun all day if the skies are clear.

Gary and I had gone up there before, and not done as badly as we could have... we were pretty psyched to get to the top this time as we got to a high point and ran out of big gear at a place it wasn't going to be nice to try to run it to the top. On that occasion we scrambled around to the back of the formation, got to to the very top and rapped down to retrieve the gear.

This time I lead up through the alcove and set the first piece in the cruxy squeeze just above. I was up and down a couple of times then lowered out. Gary was heard to mumble "shit!" as it was his lead in the rotation.

Here is Gary in the initial hand jam section just off the deck with George belaying through my pieces above...

Here is Gary working through the crux section, now leading with much of the route shown

Up high the difficulty eases off, but so do the pro possibilities. When I'm doing a Pratt climb I often ask myself "what would Pratt do?" the answer is usually "heel toe, dummy!" Here is Gary running out the wide section heel-toeing like a demon going for the bolts.

George was next, he made it with some hangs on top rope, but learned a lot out in the "real world"

Of course, comfy belay ledges are always nice!
Gary luxuriates while Steve belays George.

Steve was next, here he gets a no-hands rest just above the initial hand/fist crack start. He's sitting on the top of a flake pretty comfortably

I top roped the route as did Gary, much fun! or at least just like fun only different...

It was a good day by the time everyone got their fill of this climb. Steve split and we three went down to Generator Crack and couldn't get the mojo going. We did meet katiebird and Jesse, they were very nice and let us use their rope. We didn't make a good show. Throughly thrashed, we headed home.

  Trip Report Views: 1,881
Ed Hartouni
About the Author
Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.

Comments
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Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Nov 30, 2006 - 02:36am PT
bravo!
Standing Strong

Trad climber
snowshoe thompson history trail
  Nov 30, 2006 - 02:46am PT
very nice. and chingando! is a fun word to say :)
snakefoot

climber
cali
  Nov 30, 2006 - 03:03am PT
oh baby,
love the wide stuff, nice work

do not forget the crack of doom and despair across yonder, let alone every damn one on the long routes.
Patrick Sawyer

climber
Originally California now Ireland
  Nov 30, 2006 - 07:40am PT
Chingando is one of my favorite OWs, and I don't have many favorite OWs.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Nov 30, 2006 - 08:01am PT
Nice report, Ed. Imagine Pratt climbing Chingando before there was an off width circuit. I notice that everyone is wearing low tops. Doesn't that hurt? Or is everyone so dialed into heel/toe that their ankles don't touch the rock?

rhyang

climber
SJC
  Nov 30, 2006 - 10:37am PT
Great pics. I have a lot of OW technique to learn. The note about the 'offwidth circuit' prompted me to do some googling, and this is what I found :
http://www.chizang.net/alex/climb-beta/crack.owcircuit.html
Gary Carpenter

climber
SF Bay Area
  Nov 30, 2006 - 10:45am PT
Roger:

Both Ed and I wear high tops. I've got several pairs of Megas and Ed just got his Kaukulators resoled by Barry. High tops are nice in the off-widths but we still leave our share of DNA on the rock.


Gary
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2006 - 11:05am PT
Roger - what I was thinking was Roper's gear selection, 'pro to 3",' which would mean that most of the route was unprotected. But this is exactly what you'd expect from a Pratt climb in the '60s, as the gear to protect the wide stuff didn't exist... even a 6" bong-bong wouldn't help in most of the crack, and the flakes are pretty flexible so driving a piton into a lot of the cracks would have been problematic.

As usual, it seems that Pratt had confidence in his ability and technique. Amazing.

For high tops I'm using my re-soled Kaukulators as Gary said... probably order a pair of Acopa JB's after the holidays. The Mega's look good too. Maybe when I get the technique dialed I can waltz up the stuff in slippers, but it's going to be a long while before that happens!

The "offwidth circuit" is an interesting concept. I wouldn't be surprised if it consisted of just one climb. But we'll be exploring the various, short, fierce OW's in the Valley this winter, and reporting here.

I didn't put a lot of pain and suffering in the report, but that seems cliche, the stuff of other reports... OW is just another technique, you have to sack it up and go. The mantra is provided by Pratt: "technique is my protection." And John Long's admonition: "NO THRASHING!"

We ran into Eric on the way out of the Valley (Happy Birthday Eric!) and he said "so, you guys are ready to do Reed's Left"... what can you say to that?

My Kaukulators at the base of Chingando
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
  Nov 30, 2006 - 11:11am PT
Maybe he meant after you took one look at it, you would know that 'to 3"' meant nothing smaller than 3 inches? :-)
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Nov 30, 2006 - 11:53am PT
Pratt seems to have been one of the first climbers who completely mastered opposing pressure. Chuck and I were good friends but we didn't really climb together. But I remember guys of his generation telling stories about him contorting his limbs and body, locking in on the least amount of energy to secure a hold--arm bar, heel/toe, mantel, sloper, and then move effortlessly around it. I don't think I have ever heard of a story of him falling--can that be true?

Of course everyone who came after him had a model, or at least his climbs that we would try. But it still is amazing when someone create something that refined out of thin air.

And Gary, my DNA is all over the Valley too--not in a good way, I might add.

Roger
Carolyn C

Trad climber
the long, long trailer
  Nov 30, 2006 - 11:54am PT
Nice report and photos. Having followed many of the OWs in the Valley (a long time ago), behind a boyfriend who loved doing them, I can even say that I kinda like OWs, too, well, sort of, in a puking kind of way. Maybe they are more fun in memory than they were in reality.
spyork

Trad climber
Tunneling out of prison
  Nov 30, 2006 - 12:14pm PT
Hey Ed, send me the directions to get to Gary's excellent crack machine. I got permission to go out tonight!

Steve
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
  Nov 30, 2006 - 12:24pm PT
"Imagine Pratt climbing Chingando before there was an off width circuit. I notice that everyone is wearing low tops. Doesn't that hurt?"

Only if you don't tape your ankles.
salad

Big Wall climber
  Nov 30, 2006 - 01:08pm PT
siege!!
yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
  Nov 30, 2006 - 01:46pm PT
I find Chingando about four grades easier than, say, Generator. Not letter grades either. GRADES. Pro to 3", though...yikes.





(Hartouni told me to post on this thread.)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Nov 30, 2006 - 02:43pm PT
can you toprope that thing? it looks long.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2006 - 02:49pm PT
70 m rope does the trick... just.
But you can also drop down from the top (down climb The Iota chimney and clip into the anchor).

But don't be a wuss, lead it! it's a crack!! you can get pro! ('cause you're lucky and live in the age of big stuff).
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Nov 30, 2006 - 03:46pm PT
Yeah Munge - don't be a wuss - lead it like Ed did!!
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
  Nov 30, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
Didn't Choinard write an article c. 1973 (or maybe even before that) that listed a Valley OW circuit that included "Chingando"? Maybe it was in the old Summit mag? In any case, Choinard made it sound like 5.10 and OW were synonyms in the Valley.
davidji

Social climber
CA
  Nov 30, 2006 - 03:59pm PT
Even with pro to #3 Bro, the finish (last 20"?) is unprotectable. Fortunately that's the (relatively) easy part. Still who wants to whip onto whatever sparse pro you left 20" or more below you?

As far as 'pro to 3"' I seem to remember it eats a few #4 Friend sized cams which is 3 1/2".

If you want to TR it, I guess you can solo up the Iota chimney to the top of the first pitch, which has a bolted anchor. You probably also could go behind the Iota, and "scramble" up the left side, using the old knotted fixed rope that might still be there, and rap down to the bolted anchor.

Rob, I might be up for it, since I barely remember how much fun it isn't.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2006 - 04:15pm PT
Well, lead it better than Ed! (Gary and Ed team led it)...

The knotted rope was there last year, but just barely... core shot and braids broken, definitely the crux. Getting into The Iota chimney is probably the best bet. Way scary compared to leading Chingando.

Bruce - I was looking for that article too, but didn't remember which journal it appeared in. Someone's got write the comphrensive index of climbing journals soon!


davidji

Social climber
CA
  Nov 30, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
"Getting into The Iota chimney is probably the best bet. Way scary compared to leading Chingando. "

Looked that way to me too. I seem to remember that as a guidebook suggestion though.
del cross

climber
  Nov 30, 2006 - 04:27pm PT
There's one spot just below the chains where you have to kind of get out of the crack. But you can fit a #4 Bro right below that move.

Seriously, with modern gear you can sew it up: Camalots #.75, #1, #2, #3, #3, #3.5, #11 Hex, #4 Camalot, #6 Big Dude, #5 Camalot, #3 and #4 Big Bros. Embarrassing, isn't it?

Great route, lots of nice rests where you can catch your breath and just hang out. Pretty grainy too, so something to protect the skin on your right arm and knee is a good idea.

EDIT: Iota chimney entry is not difficult once you figure out where it is and how to slither in. Maybe if you're a big guy it is different.
Zander

climber
  Dec 3, 2006 - 03:57pm PT
Hi Ed,
Thanks for the TR and Pics.
I've organized my OW list by area. So far people take one look and we go do something else.
You've posted TRs on Chingando and Peter Pan. What's next?
Zander

Route rating page
Area/Day 1
Moby Dick Left 9 106
Peter Pan 9 100
Ahab 10b 106
Slack left 10b 104
Peter Pan left 10b/c 100

Area/Day 2
Doggie Do 10a
Henley quits 10a
Secret Storm 10a 135
Edge Of Night 10c 135

Area/Day 3
Chingando 10a 74
Reed's left side 10b 74

Area/Day 4
Absolutely Free Right 9 129
Rixon's East Chimney 10a 132

Misc.
Pharoah's Beard 8 262
Cookie Center 9 45
Hourglass right 10a 93
Narrow Escape 10c 28

Area/Day 6
Worst Error left 9 344
Crack of Doom 10a 346
Crack of Dispair 10a 346



Lost Arrow chimney 10a 158
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2006 - 04:19pm PT
Zander -
we've done Moby Dick, Left a while ago and didn't post a TR, but it is such a "good" climb we'll be back to it this winter and post...

Ahab right now is a toprope after Moby Dick, Center, figuring out the pro will be the key.

The other's are known to us, but, we're working the 9s and 10as first...

Doggie Do is a toprope possibility too, Kate and Melissa ran into us a few years ago with wild grunting sounds eminating from the cliff, must of been a wierd approach for them.

Reed's Left was suggested for this weekend, but we had good excuses to go elsewhere.

I've been up and done Absolutely Free, Center, Right has a hideious reputation, which makes it even more desirable... (I'm sick, I know).

We took a gander at Pharoah's Beard, probably a good climb to do in the afternoon when the sun is on it, it would make for a lot more positive juju. Cookie Center looks good, we did Right and that was an ass kicker! I highly recommend it.

Stuff on Elephant Rock; that is the big leagues!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2006 - 04:22pm PT
Here is the list we're currently working from, all are 10a in the Yellow Meyers' guide:

Banana Dreams
Cookie, Left
This and That
Nothing Special (Mongolian Clusterf*#k)
Chingando
Reed's Pinnacle, Left
Bong's Away, Center
Hourglass, Right
Gollum, Left
Orange Juice Avenue
Secret Storm
Doggie Do
Geek Towers, Center
Geek Towers, Right
Worst Error, Right
Crack of Doom
Crack of Dispair
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Dec 3, 2006 - 05:05pm PT
It may be a squeeze to say that Cookie Centre is an offwidth. It's a weird claustrophobic tunnel thing. I've heard of people doing wild and crazy things to get up the outside, but most seem to squeeze in. I couldn't, even when I was 20. Too much swimming.

Some say that Moby Dick centre is an offwidth, likewise Sacherer Cracker. Bit of a stretch - even my dainty fists sort of fit the former, and the latter is only a few moves, around 5.8.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2006 - 05:59pm PT
a tease for the reprise...
Gary in the lower 3rd of Moby Dick, Left 5.9

He's got sexy new, expensive black knee pads now (but he might be using the same tape gloves)...


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Dec 3, 2006 - 10:10pm PT
The Iota Chimney during a full moon makes for a really fun outing. The chimney is such that the when the moonlight shines directly in it casts your shadow onto the wall inside. Early in my Valley days if arriving at night, I would routinely climb the Iota under full moon or flashlight. It's very easy to get to the bolts that allow Chingando to be TR. At 5.4, you just need kneedpads and some chimney technique.

My recollection of Chingando is that it's more about arm bars and squeeze chimneying and less actual OW.
Yah00

Trad climber
CA
  Dec 4, 2006 - 12:48am PT
Oh man, I got on Chingando for the first time a couple months ago. About half way through the hard part, after much flailing, I decided I'd had enough and just started pulling on gear to get to the top. Then, I discovered that the upper part is too wide for cams and, still worked, got to run it out to the chains. Good times.

On a somewhat related note, is their any way to protect the crux squeeze on Ahab? It's too wide for a cam and I'm not sure if the angle would accomodate a big bro.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Dec 4, 2006 - 01:25am PT
I'd take the whole hardware store (a Big Bro should work).

While you're wrestling away, imagine Royal Robbins climbing the thing unroped in his street shoes. Man, was that guy solid on the wide stuff.

Bev Johnson was rather fond of climbing Ahab too. She could "get her ass in it," as she used to like to say.
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Dec 4, 2006 - 01:27am PT
Pretty cool there, Ed. I have to say though, I don't think I'll be using my knee for chimneying for a while. Arrrgh. Nice pics, too.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Dec 4, 2006 - 01:36am PT
Bill Russell on the "Valley Hardman Training Circuit" a long time ago. Some kind of Mussy custom chalkbag too.

Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Dec 4, 2006 - 01:51am PT
Why is Bill following with such a big rack???


(mostly a bump, but with some smack talk thrown in for Billy)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 4, 2006 - 01:53am PT
"My recollection of Chingando is that it's more about arm bars and squeeze chimneying and less actual OW."

Hunh?

What move is more quintessentialy 'offwidth' than the armbar?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Dec 4, 2006 - 01:58am PT
Uhm Musskelunge, Swillnillus is actually leading the thing if you can believe that.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:00am PT
No way Wall_Eye!!!! It is surely a trick of the light.....

here is a post OW pic from last week I just stole from another thread. Note to self: wear long pants in Josh OW's

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:02am PT
Ho Man, a Fish that's been gutted and filleted. OW's are war I tell ya..........
AlexC

climber
Bay Area, CA
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:21am PT
> Ahab right now is a toprope after Moby Dick, Center, figuring out the pro
> will be the key.
...
> On a somewhat related note, is their any way to protect the crux squeeze
> on Ahab? It's too wide for a cam and I'm not sure if the angle would
> accomodate a big bro.

The squeeze on Ahab protects quite well with 2x #6 Friends and a #5 Friend or #4 Camalot. At one point it gets very wide on the #6 Friend and you might have to move it up a couple of feet past a slightly too wide part.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:39pm PT
Yo Russ, post a pic of said rig...Boot and Rally? And no sucker links please...
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:53pm PT
Long pants are aid. ;-)
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:56pm PT
hehehe... Nice one Missy!

Al Dude: there is link to some pics over on the JT rig..... can't remember the name of the thread but you are probably dust anyway as they are embedding in a giant flash program.... I'll look around for a dialup pic or two......

Mountain Man/ Jaybro edit: found one Al. Photo by SteelMonkey



Still trying to figure out if anyone has done this thing before.....

This thread will now return to the on topic blabbing it deserves... "Thanks" to Ed for the opportunity to hijack!
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
  Dec 4, 2006 - 02:59pm PT
Zander...That's one ambitious circuit. You'll have to post a picture of your abs when you're done. Day one looks like several days worth of winter climbing adventures for me (or weeks if I didn't have a ropegun for all of the harder stuff).
Zander

climber
  Dec 4, 2006 - 09:08pm PT
Melissa,
I know I'm toast. I'm one of the worlds best climbers when I'm planning and scheming. When I'm at the bottom of the climb looking up I'm still a pretty fine climber. It's when I get on the climb that problems begin! Still, if you plan a grag day as if you're doing a big multipitch day you've got a better chance of getting in a lot of pitches. Or so I've heard.
See ya,
Zander
chappy

Social climber
ventura
  Dec 4, 2006 - 09:28pm PT
About protecting Ahab: If you are willing to go about half way up the initial wide section (which if you have good technique really isn't too bad) you can get a bomber stopper deep in the crack. From there just continue up until it starts pinching down. Then you start getting fist and wide hands in deep. Here you can use large hexes or medium size friends. Dragging anything up there larger than fist size would be a pain in the ass. Leaving the harness behind for a swami also helps. Harnesses on routes like Ahab suck.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Dec 4, 2006 - 09:31pm PT

Silent Storm
Edge of Night

Anyone done these? They look mighty, and scary as all hell.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
  Dec 4, 2006 - 09:38pm PT
Uhhhh, Mark? That is so last century!

le_bruce, do you mean 'Secert Storm?'

Roger
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 4, 2006 - 10:00pm PT
Secret storm and Edge o night are both excellenet climbs, but you have to want to do a climb like that in the first place..

That looks very cool, Russ. Think I did it with Henry Barber's gut back in'72, though.


even though I didn't
get to josh 'till '77.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Jul 14, 2007 - 05:16pm PT
A bump for Phat-ness™™™™ on the front page.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Jul 19, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
Nobody seems to mention the Vendetta, which I found to be full of thrills. The books says something about a wild 3rd pitch, which I thought was a misprint since the really good OW is on the 2nd. Worth finding out about fer yerself.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Jul 19, 2007 - 01:22pm PT
Vendetta is kickAsss™™™™

Here is a post from the Twilight Zone thread:

Russ Writes: Vendetta: me and Doug VanGina.... last pitch was interesting... big loose flake wiggling in the crack.... dirty top out in a small roof. Went and asked Klemmens about it.... he says, "you guys did that thing???..... probably the second ascent.... nobody does that last pitch!" Then he started laughing.....

Way easier than the TZ though IMO.



http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=129144
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
  Oct 28, 2008 - 09:36pm PT
I just added this to the route database:

http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yorechin
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Apr 25, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Oh yeah.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 25, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
Trying to figure out where my original photo went.
Here it is again plus a few more
Credit: Walleye
Credit: Walleye
Credit: Walleye
Credit: Walleye
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 25, 2014 - 08:25pm PT
Nice TR....fun climb if you're into the wide. Not 150 ft. and Chuck used 1.5 to 3 inch pitons....not for 90% of the crack he didn't. Generator Crack is significantly harder...the 10c that makes number chasers cry.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Apr 25, 2014 - 08:50pm PT
Vendettas a beauty so is left side o reeds Fun too

Even if they are wide

Chappy almost decked off Chingando way back when


When are some of you wide fetishists going to hike out to The Devils Dancefloor to wiggle and writhe your way up Scab Laborer?

That thing looks badass and classic

I wanna see a TR!

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Photo: Ed Hartouni
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