Trip Report
Yellow Spur TR
Thursday August 18, 2011 1:45am
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This piton is a good representation of how old and classic this climb really is.

I was fortunate to meet some great people last year in Boulder and Crimper thanks again for that kind gesture welcoming me to your town. I always seem to end up in Boulder in November or December as that's the holidays and the in laws want to spend them with us and their grandchild so we go and we have fun. The weather can work for you then but it never has while I was there for a visit and so I never get any time on the rock.

Well this year when we needed to head out for the wife's 20 year high school reunion I knew my chance to climb was here. So Brassnuts and I hatched the plan and off we went.
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The first pitch is fun but not my favorite steep right off the ground and then easy 4th to a another move or two to a nice stance,
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Second pitch I finally started to feel like I knew how to climb again.
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Brass basically knows this climb like the back of his hand. He made these pitches fun and when we got to the third pitch you could see the rock and the route getting better and better.
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So Dave set us up to do the climb in four pitches as some parties do it in six he told me. The last pitch is the meat and potatoes. You step out onto the prow of the spur and you get some really fun technical moves up a pin ladder. This is for sure the most technical moves needed to do the route. Pinching a little rib of rock working your feet higher and higher on another small rib of rock. Fun stuff and good exposure all around you. We did the Robbins exit as Dave put it up the smooth arete.
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So that's my story of going up the yellow spur with brassnuts. I will include a few more scenic shots for your viewing enjoyment.

Dave thanks again for a great day. We scurried off the Yellow Spur and around to the back of the Bastille for a little fun on another great crack climb that Dave says is the only real continuous crack climb in Eldo. I forogt the name but a really nice climb. Here are some butt shots of Dave on the back of the Bastille.
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Well that's all I have and a huge thanks again to Dave for a great day in Eldo.
To all the Boulder area people who made pizza and beers that night thanks for the great time and putting up with Marlow that night. She had fun with you. The youngest HH attendee.

Thanks Boulder!




  Trip Report Views: 1,857
Silver
About the Author
Silver is OTC every climb.

Comments
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mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:50am PT
I love that route!!!
Mimi

climber
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:52am PT
Beautiful Eldo classic! Thanks for posting, Silver.
seth kovar

climber
Reno, NV
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:52am PT
Wicked Silver!!!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Aug 18, 2011 - 02:01am PT
looks like a great romp Silver!

Thanks for the TR. Stone looks good too.
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
  Aug 18, 2011 - 05:05am PT
Just little info details. The first pitch starts about 20 feet
left of where you climbed, goes up what is the strenuous
and technical crux. Many do the variation(s) to the right,
as they are much easier.

Doing the route in six pitches instead of four allows for less
rope drag and better communication, if you're with someone
perhaps less experienced.

The final pitch, you mention the "Robbins exit." That's actually
the Rearick exit, as Dave Rearick pioneered that nice traverse
upward and left, entirely eliminating Layton's bolts on the final
headwall. When Robbins and I free climbed the whole route, Dave
Rearick and I had already done the climb virtually all free, at
which time he found that "exit" (or upward traverse left across
that vertical, exposed wall). Larry Dalke then came along later
and free climbed the bolted headwall...
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 18, 2011 - 09:19am PT
Trying to remember, didn't you two do Blind Faith at the end? Thinking so. Fun having you in town. Look forward to your return in October.

The original start is to the left, but the start you two did is the better start - and it's all about good climbing isn't it? Those first moves always keep my attention. I just imagine the rope stretch and wonder which ankle I'll break if I come off.

Love the finish too. Did you find the hidden undercling on the hardest part? I drive BN crazy with it as he doesn't know what I'm talking about. :) heh heh.

Fun climb! Nice TR. Thanks for posted.
Les

Trad climber
Bahston
  Aug 18, 2011 - 09:13am PT
NICE!!!!! Been wanting to do that climb for a while now. Great TR! Killer pics! Thanks for sharing!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Aug 18, 2011 - 10:22am PT
Quality!
Prod

Trad climber
  Aug 18, 2011 - 11:02am PT
Nice work Silver.

The climb you did on the back of the Bastile is Blind Faith. I did it with BN a few weeks ago as well.

Did you find the hidden undercling on the hardest part? I drive BN crazy with it as he doesn't know what I'm talking about.

What/ where are you talking about Crimpie?

Prod.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 18, 2011 - 11:08am PT
It is there. A small pocket that is actually a little undercling. Makes what is a hard move pretty easy. Unfortunately, I can't describe it better than that. BN can better tell you where on the climb it is.
Prod

Trad climber
  Aug 18, 2011 - 11:12am PT
I always find that section really hard for 9+ or 10a or what ever it is rated.

G.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Aug 18, 2011 - 11:28am PT

Great report, Silver--looks like you guys had a great day!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:33pm PT
Saweet TR SILVER!!
Patrick Oliver

Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
Crimper, I guess it's a matter of perception. I've done the
route close to a hundred times, but there are certain special
memories linked to that first pitch, the direct way to the left.
It's much harder, but the moves feel good when you're in halfway
good form. Very solid 5.9, and in some areas today might be
easy 10. They involve balance and so forth, whereas they are
really scary if you're not in such good shape. That's the way
Royal and I did it when we free climbed the route in 1964.
We were with Dick McCracken, and he raced up the pitch without
a single point of gear, found an old piton about halfway up,
clipped it, and continued strongly up..., but he veered a little
too far left and got on those down-slopers to the left of the
ledge and slipped. He sailed down, and Royal caught him just as
he landed on his feet on the big boulder at the bottom. It was
a miracle he wasn't hurt, but he smiled, a very good, genial guy,
and said he'd had enough for the day. Royal then gritted his
teeth and, in his typically serious way, led calmly up. So you
understand I have those memories.
The start you like, to the right, is the way Rearick and I did
it, in '63. It just doesn't get my blood flowing, and it's
too easy to make me feel I really did the route, but that
doesn't mean others can't go that way. One can find all sorts
of variations on the Yellow Spur. There's an easy travese right
that utterly avoids the important third pitch. Every way you
go is nice climbing... I agree.

These are pretty plain snapshots and don't show the beauty or
grandeur of the route, but what I like very much is that they
capture the simple camaraderie of two friends up in the wonderful
Eldorado air, which is what it's all about, that shared
experience on a very steep, truly gorgeous classic climb. I
love the spirit conveyed in that summit smile. What people don't
see is that they are balancing on a pinpoint summit, probably
hardly room enough for one person much less two.

One of my favorite parts of the climb is the little third pitch,
that goes up steep rock into a shallow, difficult dihedral, good
solid 5.8. Then we always loved the "infamous" hand traverse
that goes out under the big roof, with feet on the smooth rock
below and hands in that nice but slippery crack below the roof....
I was 14 when Larry and I got caught in a horrendous snowstorm,
just as I reached a point below Layton's bolts on the last pitch.
I've never seen it snow that heavily, with baseball-sized "flakes"
and strong wind... We barely got down alive, and Layton had to
come, more or less, to the rescue in the storm.... So many
memories...

So then, thanks for the TR. My comments are only minor thoughts, nothing for anyone to worry about.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
Great stuff, great comments.

Congrats Silver on getting out there!!

Us old dawgs can still get up a thing or two.
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Aug 18, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
That is cool, Thanks for sharing, guess I really need to get my Okole over there.

Aloha,
will
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Aug 18, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
Churning up some great memories, thanks Silver. My first climb in Eldo.

At that time, stepping out of the dihedral and up onto the spur for the crux face moves was the biggest exposure I'd ever felt. Can still remember the feeling - a mix of "holy shit" and "HOLY SH#T".
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Aug 18, 2011 - 02:46pm PT
Ths TR with PATs commnets be HOLEY SHYT!!!!!! TFPU!!!
WallMan

Trad climber
Denver, CO
  Aug 18, 2011 - 03:05pm PT
Cool trip report. A lot of loose rock in Eldo - even on this classic - I would wear a helmet. Personal preference I understand.

Wally
Zander

climber
  Aug 18, 2011 - 03:53pm PT
Looks like fun! Thanks for posting
Zander
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Aug 18, 2011 - 05:08pm PT
When I was a real baby, a buddy and I saved up our pennies for a week at Bob Culp's climbing school in Boulder.

George Hurley took us up the yellow spur as sort of a graduation present. It was a cool route.

Later on, a bunch of us would do this migratory routine that took us to Eldo when the Valley got too hot. The climbing in Eldo is fantastic.

It is funny about Blind Faith. I soloed that one.

Pat, I can't for the life of me see how you fellas did Athlete's Feat and the start of country club crack in clunker shoes.

I love the TR's with photos. The rock is more permanent than we are, that is fer sure.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Aug 18, 2011 - 05:52pm PT
Thanks for the beautiful snapshots Silver!


Silver

Gym climber
Author's Reply  Aug 18, 2011 - 08:52pm PT
Never would have been there without you Crimper. You are top shelf people and I look forward to knowing you till my last breath.

Thanks Pat for the history lesson. I had a blast and look forward to seeing you all again. The rock is different but good hard sandstone and a beautiful place.

Brass nuts thanks so much again I promise next time to be more productive and not bonk on you.
Prod

Trad climber
  Aug 18, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
Brass nuts thanks so much again I promise next time to be more productive and not bonk on you.

Don't encourage him, it'll only get worse. I'm not kidding.

Prod.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 18, 2011 - 09:58pm PT
Thanks silver, awesome History Mr. Oliver!!!!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Aug 18, 2011 - 10:13pm PT
awesome TR.

Looks to be a pretty great piece of rock, in a pretty great place.

Cheers to the TR!!!


ahhhhhh, dude... continuous crack!!!


Silver

Gym climber
Author's Reply  Aug 19, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
These are pretty plain snapshots and don't show the beauty or
grandeur of the route, but what I like very much is that they
capture the simple camaraderie of two friends up in the wonderful
Eldorado air, which is what it's all about, that shared
experience on a very steep, truly gorgeous classic climb. I
love the spirit conveyed in that summit smile. What people don't
see is that they are balancing on a pinpoint summit, probably
hardly room enough for one person much less two.


Pat I would say that these pictures really do nothing for what the route is as well. I think that if you were to ask me what climbing is for me you nailed it in the quote above. I have done a lot of climbs over the years more than average number of walls and have very little photographic evidence of most of my climbs.

I have a summit shot here and there I have a few on route here and there, but if you look through my albums and through my slides they are for the most part of me and my partners enjoying a ledge a summit, and or a beer at the car after a long day.

I never climbed for the numbers I never climbed to say I did this or that, but I climb to see features and experience things with friends I love and enjoy spending time with.

I wish I could show my daughter picutes of her dad way up high on the Muir or on Zodiac, or leading Ao Nang Tower in Thailand but I cant. Photo's were not my objective. All I ever wanted out of climbing was a way to escape the day to day grind that life can bring, and be with my friends.

Nothing in my life has ever allowed me the freedom from my mind and life that climbing has. I put my hand on a rock and I feel free. I don't care if its El Cap or my local choss pile in the canyon. I just get free and happy holding onto a rock.

I could not tell you a single move on the Yellow Spur but I can tell you that day with Brassnuts was incredibly fun and the conversations we had were light and about other climbs around the area. Dave is a great climber,and athlete no doubt. Thats all fine and well, but what I like about Dave is that he is a good person, and thats what matters to me in a climbing partner.

Like most of the people I have tied in with over the years, and there are not many of you out there I have climbed with but the ones I have are some of the best people I have ever know.

426, Fox, B.Ketron, and the eastside people and my El Portal friends and a handful of others are what have made climbing special for me.

So this TR has some Yellow Spur climbing for sure but to me this TR has what I hope is the begining of a long friendship with Dave and Callie and all the Boulder people who have opened their arms and welcomed me into their community. You all are some very good people and it is my honor to spend time with you.

Thanks
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Aug 19, 2011 - 03:35pm PT
Amen.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Aug 19, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
I love this stuff. Great TR, SilverMan. WooT!!
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Aug 19, 2011 - 06:58pm PT
This TR brings back some great memories! I've done it 3 different ways over the years, and my first trip up the route was BITD with pitons and a bit of aid--wearing Kronhofers!

P.S. This is my all-time favorite route in Eldorado! "37 Stars."
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