Iron Messiah III/IV 5.10

 
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The Spearhead


Zion National Park, Utah, USA


Trip Report
Wrapping Up Q1 of 2015 - Photo Intensive (Link Inside)

by W.L.
Sunday April 5, 2015 10:46am
Hey everyone - wrote up another trip report. Just warning you now, it has lots of pictures, a big life event, a significant injury, and some pretty awesome rock climbing in it as well...and is VERY photo intensive.


Click the link below for the trip report

https://westonlippia.wordpress.com/2015/04/04/wrapping-up-q1-of-2015/

Includes Iron Messiah, The Nightcrawler, Inti Watana, and much much more!












  Trip Report Views: 3,051
W.L.
About the Author
W.L. is a climber from Loxahatchee, FL who now resides in the desert.

Comments
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Apr 5, 2015 - 10:50am PT
Q1 eh? But how are the financials? ;)
Gene

climber
  Apr 5, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
Wow, Weston. Wonderful!

Gene
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Apr 5, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
Great TR.

Heal well!
Dingus Milktoast

Trad climber
Minister of Moderation, Fatcrackistan
  Apr 5, 2015 - 12:35pm PT
Sweet thanks!
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Apr 5, 2015 - 02:43pm PT
Cool TR, great photos, and write up.
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
  Apr 5, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
Good stuff although it was tough to digest it all in one sitting!

I was surprised to see Nightcrawler in the shade. When did you climb it and did the sun ever hit it?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 5, 2015 - 07:20pm PT
Real nice TR as usual Wes, I hope Shane heals up well!!!
Jones in LA

Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
  Apr 6, 2015 - 07:47am PT
Woo hoo! Hooray for massive climbing content! Thanks for posting this. Hope Shane gets back at it ASAP.

Rich Jones
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Apr 6, 2015 - 09:54am PT
Get a job!

TFPU
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Apr 6, 2015 - 10:01am PT
The goods, as always. Thanks WL, and congratulations to you both.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Apr 6, 2015 - 10:53am PT
Wonderful trip report Weston. You manage to do more climbing in a quarter than I usually do in a year - and you work full time while I'm retired. Something to do with the energy differential between older and younger!

Fantastic photos as usual.

Only one comment, re the "fail" on Grindrite: I too failed at that spot with the long reach to the right to get through that bulge. At 5'4" I just couldn't pull it off. But I often carry a few small cams on my harness when I'm climbing sport routes and I was able to make that one critical move into A0 by utilizing that thin crack where your left hand is, and a long runner . Got a foot in the runner and that enabled me to reach through directly up rather than reaching right. Even with the spot of aid I think it was a completely amazing climb. One of my very favorite ever in the Gorge.
Phyl
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Apr 6, 2015 - 11:00am PT
Wow - quite a first quarter. I look forward to reading (and, of course, seeing) more. Thanks much.

John
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 6, 2015 - 11:09am PT
Good stuff Maynard!!

(An old military pal always said that...)
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 6, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
Thanks guys (and gals)!

Jon - Nightcrawler is still in the shade. I climbed the route 3 weeks ago I believe. Sun only hit on the first pitch.

phyl - are you referring to the A-frame roof? Basically where Jon is pictured on his successful ascent. That was where I got stymied...I finally worked it on TR after and figured out the beta for me, which is improbable. Basically a deadpoint from two crimps. I tried to tech my way through it with creative stemming but it didn't want to go for my short self, with a non-agreeable ape index and low IQ...at 5'7.

JEleazarian - Thanks, looking forward to getting much more done! Have another trip coming up next weekend (holy shet it's here already!) and another big trip a few weeks later. No idea what I'm getting on, or who with during that big trip....but hopefully the who with is 'good people' and the what are 'great routes'
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 6, 2015 - 04:46pm PT
This thing crashed my laptop browser, twice,so I have to post a comment from my phone lol. Well done man! Keep on trucking!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Apr 6, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
WHOOT ! WHOOT ! !

GETTIN' IT DONE !!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Apr 6, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
This is an awfully good report, Weston. Thanks for taking the time and the pics, too.

Shane is on the prayers list I keep conveniently by the bedside so I don't have to go thru the list in my head when it's time to thank God for all he's given us.

And CONGRATULATIONS (premature, I know) to you and Sam and have a great life together!
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 6, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
Thanks guys, I appreciate it
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 7, 2015 - 06:06am PT
Another stellar report from the king of enthusiasm. AND you've given me an idea, Weston. Great shots like usual, but I wasreally stoked to view the snow pics. Something extra special about snow in the desert.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 7, 2015 - 11:22pm PT
Thanks, Chris! What's the idea I gave you? Chances are it's probably not a good one...
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Apr 8, 2015 - 06:12am PT
WL. I haven't put up a TR yet. The stuff I do is too friggen boring. But if I lump a year together in summary....


Your right. Probably not a good idea ;)
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 8, 2015 - 10:30am PT
Summaries, in my opinion, are often the best. Most of the individual trips, routes, or climbing I do isn't worthy of its own TR in of itself....but combined, it gives people a good sampling of what is out there that I am getting on and hopefully provides some inspiration and stoke for others to get out there and cruise or try hard on something.

There have been plenty of routes I have been way inspired to go climb because of some obscure trip report on the internet...even if they are cragging lines!
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 11, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
Got the gear back!

Credit: W.L.


Now for Shane to get healthy....
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Apr 12, 2015 - 09:34am PT
Nice work Weston. I really liked the barbed wire shot. Hope Shane heals up soon, and you keep sending!
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 14, 2015 - 10:20am PT
Thanks, Mike! Shane had a big appt with his surgeon yesterday, they removed the wound vac and it looks like he will get his final surgery early next week (the one where they remove the torture device from his ankle)...one step closer to recovery and things he can be proactive with (PT, etc). Definitely a bummer to not have him along for the two trips he was supposed to be on coming up in the near future, but I'm way amped to get him back on the rock as soon as medically reasonable.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Apr 14, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
Big quarter! Congrats on engagement, and fast healing to Shane.
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Apr 14, 2015 - 09:25pm PT
Thanks, NutAgain! Earnings were up (routes climbed), and investor sentiment (STOKE!) is high!
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Mar 18, 2016 - 10:40am PT
BUMP for Shane's journey. He goes in on the 28th for ankle fusion. Hopefully this mends the f*#king thing for good and he'll be back to having fun in 11 weeks after the surgery...


11 weeks is nothing after a year.
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The Spearhead - Iron Messiah III/IV 5.10 - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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