Trip Report
Winter Fun in the SUN
Friday March 21, 2014 9:17pm
This winter has been a lot different from the usual routine I had going. For majority of my climbing trips I opened up to less onsighting and more falling. In addition, I trained in the gym with a lot more purpose, than for the sake of climbing. Prior to this season I didn't think working a hard section of a single climb or bouldering in the gym would be as fun as moving over a thousand foot rock face. But it did teach me much more about climbing at my limit. In addition, it actually turned out to be fun and shoved a slice of humble pie in my mouth, on pretty much every trip. Highlights of the last several trips include sending the super classic Rostrum (IV 5.11c), onsight of a notorious Yosemite offwidth Twilight Zone (5.10d) and an incredible fingercrack Mr. Natural. Doing a few climbs on Parkline Slab, first 7 pitches of the Astroman, (French) Freeblast, few cool outings to the Ribbon Falls area, a lot of one to two pitch climbs. Also, I finally climbed the Nutcracker and got to repeat the first 5 pitches of the super classic Central Pillar of Frenzy!

Astroman is a STEEP climb!
Astroman is a STEEP climb!
Credit: Vitaliy M.


The Rostrum


Attempt to catch the fire-fall effect. Horsetail Falls


Gleb on the way into the Harding Slot

On the first outing to Ribbon Falls Luke and I climbed the first nine pitches of Gates Of Delirium (V 5.12 or 5.11 C1) and on the other Tom and I had hell of a day trying to find the start of Ribbon Candy (IV 5.11c). Neither of those two trips resulted into “sends” or even us completing the routes to the top, but they did provide motivation and foundation for a more glorious return. One of the things that is beneficial about climbing tough routes is coming face to face with your ego. In the beginning I did not take failure well. Ego does not like to fail, but I came to a conclusion that failing is great. It is an opportunity to learn, nothing more nothing less. Even though ego will always be there to some extend, I feel like I have a lot more grasp over mine at this point. People often claim they fell in love with rock climbing because "there are no rules," but when you examine our little camp fire, you can spot a huge list of rules each climber has, which usually only applies to the guy next door.


Luke on Gates Of Delirium (Ribbon Falls wall)


Small waterfall below Fish Crack


Unknown climber on 4th pitch of the Rostrum


Gleb starting first pitch of the Rostrum


Two cool people on Freeblast

Anyway, on one of the trips I finally sacked up to lead the Twilight Zone. TZ is an offwidth - crack with size that is too narrow to use chimney technique, but too wide for a fist jam. This particular offwidth takes you through several hard sizes, is steep and has sharp flakes at the bottom. Even though it is very often talked about, I have not seen any climbers on it during all of my trips to the Cookie Cliff. Even though lately I tried to jump on climbs that are a bit above my head, I really wanted to onsight the Twilight Zone because supposedly it rarely happens. First pitch was a little burly. I started from a tree on the west side of the buttress. The crack widened to big fists through an overhang and I was lucky to get in a piece of protection before the pump got too severe. When I got to the base I saw the monster, which looked much more intimidating than from further away. This offwidth was so steep that it looked overhanging. When Max made it to the belay ledge I took a few last breaths and dove inside the giant. First section is a short chimney between the wall and a flake that would go right through you if you manage to screw up. I pushed my #6 cam above me as I inched my way up the strenuous beast. The crux of this section was to deal with the steepness and pushing the cam in the same time. Some sections got a little narrow and I would have to loosen the cam up and slide it above using a different aspect of the crack. Maybe hard-men back in the day had it better than us since they did not have to worry about things like pushing cams above their head : ) Chuck Pratt for example only needed a few big bongs for his First Ascent which he practically free soloed. A lead which was way ahead of his time in 1965. Well, I guess these big cams allow average climbers like me to test our technique on test-pieces like TZ. I finally left my #6 as the crack widened to #5 size. I felt pretty comfortable here till it narrowed to #4. At one point I couldn’t jam my knee to move up my hand stack. After a long session of cursing, dealing with a stuck cam, and feeling like I was close to asking for a take, I found a way to jam my calf and move up to a size that was more secure. From there the crack eases up. At the top it got incredibly easy – handjams! One problem was that I did not bring any cams to protect this section. What the hell, it is handjams! I took the pitch to the top running out the last 25 ft. But here was another crux – a bunch of unstable dirt and grass sitting on top of the formation. I couldn't risk a 50+ footer by pulling on this crap. Thank god I was trailing a line and was able to pull up a cam to protect this weird exit. At times I surprise myself with climbs completion of which brings me pleasure.


Me leading Enduro Corner on Astroman (ALMOST got it! Will have to remember to not get pumped next time lol)


Luke charging up another cool crack on Gates of Delirium


Got to climb HD this year again!


My partner Catherine on a cool ledge - halfway up Homeworld (9 pitch 5.10+ on Parkline Slab)

There were many more outings to the Cookie Cliff, where steep crack climbing of all sizes could be had. So far I like Butterballs, Hardd and Catchy Corner more than the rest. The Enema was a memorable lead, but did not work out to be a send. Jim Donini's story of running it out from the rest stance on the First Ascent still gives me butterflies in my stomach. Waverly Wafer is still physical even though I managed to redpoint it. But Butterballs spit me off at the top of the sustained finger crack. I was a meter away from a good rest, but the superpump got me in the end. To be honest, I was surprised I got that far, probably was having a good day. Outer Limits is still super fun and so is Catchy. Cragging at Arch rock was also mega fun, but they closed it for Peregrine nesting now. :(


Always excited to climb with Luke! He brings out the best in me hahaha


Climber on pitch one of Freeblast (Salathe Wall El Cap)


Gleb Rapelling from top of the Enema - STEEP!


Ribbon Falls area is a cool spot to check out

On another outing Gleb and I took advantage of Spring-like temperatures in Yosemite and jumped on the super classic Rostrum. I climbed the route in the end of 2013 and was blown away by its steepness and quality. Before I climbed it for the first time I was intimidated by it and expected to fall often, maybe even pull on gear. I did much better than I expected and climbed the route with only two falls, one of which while leading the crux pitch, on the last moves of it to be exact. After topping out I was super excited about my performance, till I received several texts with the same question – “Did you send?!” Usually when I go climbing my main mission is to challenge my skills, sending feels good, but the long journey is what I enjoy more. No one cared about how much fun I had, if I did better than I expected, or if it was a route I would recommend. Only thing my peers cared about was if I climbed every pitch clean. If I was in sink with my spirituality, like I would like to be, this question wouldn't bother me. But I am not there yet and was left with a bad taste in my mouth. On the drive to the park Gleb and I spent quite some time discussing human ego and emotions. Perfect description for this dilemma is - first world problems! Neither of us expected to “send,” but I would be a liar if I said I didn't care about improving on my style. The Rostrum is a multi-pitch climbs that I put really high on my 2014 tick list. Getting it clean in January would take an elephant off my back. Since I fell on pitch 4 and 6 on my prior attempt, I took the evens and Gleb took odd pitches. We decided to use a 40M cord and haul our backpack so we could concentrate on the joy of climbing while leading and following. It worked like a charm. Pitches were as good as I could remember. When we got to the crux, both Gleb and I took a turn leading it. Both attempts resulted in yells of joy as we reached the intermediate anchors. Even though all four of the remaining pitches gave us a good fight we topped out just as it got dark with big smiles on our faces. It was awesome to lead our first "5.11c" pitch clean and tick off the legendary Rostrum. We came a long way since our first climb together – a flailathon on North Buttress of Middle Cathedral last spring!


Onsighting crux pitch of Twilight Zone


Me leading second pitch of Hardd. Got the first, but second spit me off.


Gleb and I after AstroMAN showed us we have to go back to the gym and train harder


Nice to look at, even nicer to climb on!

On the day after we climbed the Rostrum Gleb and I decided to tick Mr. Natural - a long fingercrack on the Glacier Point Apron. It is rated 5.10c or 5.10d depending on the source and approached by 4th class or climbing a 5.9 pitch named Apron Jam. After tasting the glory on the Rostrum I did not even think about the difficulties that Apron Jam would present, but it had plenty. It worked me fairly hard and I barely led the pitch without taking a fall. With an approach pitch like that, I wasn't sure Mr. Natural would be a good idea, but both Gleb and I ended up getting the onsight on lead. The pitch was the longest fingercrack I have done in Yosemite, crux of which was first knuckle jams with some friction climbing and traverse out to the anchor. We ended the day by climbing HARD, RUNOUT SLAB..on TOP ROPE! It was a great way to finish the weekend and I am looking forward to MANY MORE!

And if you guys want to see some nude photos make sure to click here:
vividrea1ity.blogspot.com
:)

  Trip Report Views: 1,908
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
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briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Mar 21, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
Nice writeup. You've been busy climbing some rad routes! Good work.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Mar 21, 2014 - 09:33pm PT
You got yourself into a lot of very interesting places that you would not have seen if you were strictly focused on sending in style. Sounds like a very enjoyable climbing winter to me! Thanks for sharing.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Mar 21, 2014 - 10:40pm PT
A very enjoyable rad, as always, Vitaley!
Ok that was supposed to say "enjoyable read" but rad works just as well.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Mar 21, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
I still don't like that you've been climbing half as long as me but twice as hard.

I do like that you post pictures of it!
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Mar 21, 2014 - 11:11pm PT
You always amaze me...you do these wonderful climbing adventures, and manage to do these awesome trip reports! Such energy, such great writing and pics!
Thanks, so much...

Susan
JOEY.F

Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
  Mar 22, 2014 - 01:12am PT
Awesome, and inspiring. Thanks!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Mar 22, 2014 - 01:41am PT
But........ What about Astroman?? I see pics but not much words....








Did you send???




Lol just Joking V, great to see you grow as a climber. Awesome TR. Hope to get out & hangdog with u someday.






















Falling!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Taaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaakkkkkeee!!!!!!!


johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Mar 22, 2014 - 03:37am PT
TFPU. Great TR as usual. Buy Luke a helmet.
John Duffield

Mountain climber
New York
  Mar 22, 2014 - 04:10am PT
Fabulous!
Mark Sensenbach

climber
CA
  Mar 22, 2014 - 04:31am PT
Nice
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Mar 22, 2014 - 04:47am PT
Great thinkings, amigo.

The way Robbins would have it--to fail falling.

Learn from mistakes and have some fun, as Pratt managed to do most of the time.

You have LOTS of style; and so do your buds.

As always, good report and excellent pix, too.

Now go train some more. :0)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 22, 2014 - 06:46am PT
Nice V,
You are right on about ego and failing. Learning and hopefully getting stronger are most important ,
Thank you.
RP3

Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
  Mar 22, 2014 - 10:49am PT
Endless beautiful cracks....Glad you had so much fun!
this just in

climber
north fork
  Mar 22, 2014 - 11:21am PT
Great TR, thanks for the climbing pics.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Mar 22, 2014 - 11:27am PT
Sweet Trips Report!
TFPU
Tad
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Mar 22, 2014 - 11:31am PT
Super tr! Never heard of Gates of Delerium....will have to check it out.
bob

climber
  Mar 22, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. This goes very well with my coffee and ideas/memories of what I've done and hopefully will do!!!!

Thank you for putting the time into this.

Bob Jensen
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Mar 22, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
Winter in Yosemite -- way to get after it....
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 24, 2014 - 12:33am PT
This was a pretty amazing winter, weather-wise. Kicks ass that you got so much out of it.

TZ on-site is proud.

What did you think of Homeworld? Good line?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Mar 24, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
Never heard of Gates of Delerium....will have to check it out.

Yes, it is really good. First crux is 5.12 but is easily aided as a bolt ladder sort of.

Homeworld was good, but Flying in The Mountains (did it on Saturday) is much better. Both are worth doing and both could be easily done in a day together. Would recommend an early start if it is warm, and switching to some place cooler in the afternoon.

Interesting trivia: Both Gates of Delirium and Flying in the Mountains were put up by that villain that rap bolted HD. He did some really high quality FAs in Yosemite that are new, and will end up as top notch classics. I will for sure repeat both of these lines.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 24, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
Since I'm stuck in the flats until after our daughter's wedding on April 5, reading your TR was the next best thing to climbing. Thanks for a great way to get the proper spring fever.

John
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Mar 25, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
Great stuff!! Man, you are moving forward, always forward.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Old West Crackramento
  Mar 25, 2014 - 07:39pm PT
Man, I need more Yose in my life! Thanks for taking us on the trips with an active Valley climber.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Mar 25, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
Great TR.

TFPU!

Andrzej
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Mar 25, 2014 - 08:36pm PT
good stuff V. thx for the climbing content. :)
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