Trip Report
When a (probable) First Ascent Goes Perfectly!
Wednesday June 17, 2015 9:51am
My time on rock has been less than I would like in 2015 as I finished up my masters, teaching credential, second year of teaching and had baby #2. It also seemed like most of my trips, although super fun, ran into weather, missed summits, or other interference.

Now that summer break has started and I have babysitters lined up for every tuesday I was happy to hear that two friends who work as cave guides in Sequoia also have Tuesdays off so Brian and I planned the first exploratory trip of the summer. He sent a message saying, "I would like to try a bigger FA." And I responded, as I usually do when people want to do an FA, with, "How do you feel about walking?"

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Credit: limpingcrab
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The north face of Mount Silliman! Well, this is the west face, the north face is the sunlit sliver that falls behind the ridge on the left.

There are a couple routes on the west face, a 5.7 going up the northwest ridge and a short 5.6 on the far east end of the north face, but I haven't found any history about the wide and remote north face. Neither one of us had ever seen the northern aspect or knew anything about the rock quality or how tall it was, the perfect way to start a day!

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After a few return walks to the car at Lodgepole to get stuff we forgot we hit the trail at 4:45, about 7 miles away and 5,000 below the summit.

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It was a beautiful off-trail hike past streams and small lakes. It wasn't until we reached the sharp ridge running off to the northwest that we got our first view of the north face. Crap, it looked steeeeep! We both hoped this wouldn't turn into some sort of project.

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Credit: limpingcrab
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Credit: limpingcrab
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We stayed on the 2nd and 3rd class ridge until we found a spot to drop off on the left. It was really fun and the views were outstanding!

But then we had to decide were to go. One of the most fun and stressful parts of exploring rock. We did not think it would be so steep so we brought mostly nuts, a few cams and no bolt kit. With this gear we decided to play it safe and take that chimney system towards the right that tops out just left of the point on the skyline. It had roofs but at least it looked like it would protect the whole way. There are definitely some harder clean lines to be had right up the middle of the grey rock.

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Credit: limpingcrab
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We kicked our way up the ever steepening snow for the scariest part of the day and Brian took the first pitch, working his way right to reach the big corner and roof that marked the start of the chimney. A more direct approach would be possible if there wasn't any snow. This was Brian's third time in the high Sierra, first alpine climb and first long FA so he was almost as excited as me!

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Credit: limpingcrab
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Credit: limpingcrab
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We swapped leads the whole way and to our surprise the whole thing went at a moderate grade. Every roof had some sort of way to work around or through it and while the rock directly in the chimney wasn't always the best there was usually at least one solid wall to work with. It was exceptionally fun and had a little bit of everything; loose rock, perfect rock, smearing, jugs, chimneys, splitters and a non-stop panorama of Kings Canyon wilderness to the north.

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Wooooo! Did I mention it was steep? If you pooped yourself on the last move it would probably land in our steps in the snow, 600 ft below.

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It turns out we're not fast enough for a self timed summit selfie.

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New register, we get to be on the first page!!! Oh wait, this "J. Netha" character put a new register and took his pencil home with him.

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A hop, skip and a jump and we were back at the car 12 hours after we set out. It's not often that days go this perfect and it's basically the reason I started climbing. If you haven't tried something like this you must! Grab your gear, pick some obscure chunk of rock with no info and see if you can get to the top. It's essentially the heart of climbing (for me) and you won't forget it!

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Thanks for looking and I hope your summer gets you to some cool spots. PS: get dorky and learn to identify plants and long approaches become scavenger hunts. Here's a bleeding heart. Nature is rad.


  Trip Report Views: 2,839
limpingcrab
About the Author
limpingcrab is me, nice to meet you.

Comments
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 10:04am PT
Nice!! Very nice you guys!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 10:14am PT
14 miles, 5000 ft elevation gain, and 600 ft of FA climbing in 12 hours? Pretty strong start to Summer! TFPU!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 10:16am PT
Everything about this trip report is great. Thanks, Daniel!

John
jonnyrig

climber
  Jun 17, 2015 - 10:26am PT
Grab your gear, pick some obscure chunk of rock with no info and see if you can get to the top.

Agreed. Nice TR!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:01am PT
cool
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:07am PT
This is super fantastic!
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:18am PT
Proud Summit!

Congrats for your acheivement. gettin back Safe, and for hav'in the presence to stop and smell the flowers :)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:32am PT
To the trip and the stoke
Great one, thanx for sharing great great great!
cat t.

climber
california
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:35am PT
Wonderful!! Nice work; sounds like an awesome day out.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:36am PT
Nice line bros!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:44am PT
Dude we were literally there the weekend before and climbed that exact line/chimney. The snow was covering most of that first pitch but the rest was fantastic. We topped out right where you guys did too. Glad you enjoyed the route!
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 17, 2015 - 11:52am PT
Ha! That's pretty much the exact comment I'm waiting for, Scott. Except you're supposed to say it was 30 years ago and you didn't care if anyone knew until know when you decided to point it out.
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:04pm PT
Nice TR. TFPU
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:20pm PT
I'm jus funnin' ya Crab. Congrats on a well earned FA. Keep em' comin.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Jun 17, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
Way to go! Silliman looks like it has many route possibilities.
True adventure climbing!!!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
Gotta love it...thanks-lars
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
That looks like a great time out! The wall looks nice and the views don't suck. Hope to climb something cool together in near future brosef!!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
This is what it's all about!
Well done!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
Most Excellant! Good to see Bryan getting some fame and glory too! And always nice to see stuff from the Alpine, Backcountry relm. I remember Amos Clifford talking about a 1000' climb he did on that face somewhere?? No tell..Oh well right. Nice write up and pics of course.........We were up on Moro if this was just this last weekend?........
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:48pm PT
This was yesterday Rene. Amos did one or both of those lines on the west face. Still not sure exactly where they went but that face looked like a lot of fun too!
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Jun 17, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
Awesome!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 17, 2015 - 04:19pm PT
Nice!
Funny how a little distance and vertical gain on an approach will thin the crowds.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Jun 17, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
Nice limp, you are killing it right now.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Jun 17, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
Way to GO.... Mr. Crab and Brian
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Jun 17, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
Bitchin'
DaveyTree

Trad climber
Fresno
  Jun 18, 2015 - 10:50am PT
Yah baby!! getter done.
looks easy from here

climber
Santa Cruzish
  Jun 18, 2015 - 04:15pm PT
Stunning. Definitely raises my anticipation of getting on some unclimbed rock someday.

"How do you feel about walking?"

Maybe I'm still is the starry-eyed honeymoon phase of climbing, but a long, scenic approach always just adds to the adventure, imo (admittedly I'm usually less stoked about the hike out ;) ).
Bascuela

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Jun 22, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
Most enjoyable TR
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Jun 22, 2015 - 12:24pm PT
Looks fun - congrats!
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
Author's Reply  Jul 5, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
Ok, two weeks with no detractors, it passed the test. I guess I will upgrade this from "probable" to "actual."

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