Trip Report
We are trying... But man this is tough
Saturday February 16, 2013 3:13pm
Well, we have repaired the Portaledge rainfly as best as we could. We slugged all the equipment around the glacier to the wall and got ready for a go. Not easy so far...

We missed one weather window do to repairs and a horrible stomach illness that rocked Amy and I for days. Could of been water, could of been from a horrible diet, but what ever it was... Dropped us like bricks. I never want to experience that again!

A slip on the glacier in crampons while moving bags has seriously injured the ankle, so for now we are Puerta Natales stranded. Iceing and heating and wondering if we need to get it ex-rayed. The hike out from the wall sucked, lots of slips and excruciating pain. We will be back for the Central in a few, we just need to dry out and heal!

This is video of our advance base camp which we got rocked and knocked at!


The blog has been updated...

http://roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/2013/02/was-it-eggs-or-was-it-water-is-wall.html

  Trip Report Views: 2,354
Myles Moser
About the Author
Myles Moser is a climber from Lone Pine, Ca.

Comments
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climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Feb 16, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
Get the X-ray if ya can and heal up well and fast!

ruppell

climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 03:36pm PT
Myles

Looks like fun down there. lol I hardly ever give advice but for you I'll make an exception. Get the ankle looked at. Remember when I broke my heal 2 years ago and played the tough guy. I didn't have it looked at for 6 weeks because I'd convinced myself it was "just a bad sprain". Well when I did get it looked at the first thing the doc told me was "It's healed and there's not much I can do". The second thing he told me was "You should have come seen my 6 weeks ago I would have put a screw in it". That said if you are walking on it it most likely is just a sprain. Either way man heal up. Tell Amy hello from Emma and I as well.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
  Feb 16, 2013 - 03:43pm PT
I vote Pizza and Beer. Sushi and Sake?

yeah, get that ankle looked at. Even if you tough it out you'll know what's up with it and what kind of damage you are doing. Plus you'll know what kind of support it needs as you tough it out.

TFPU
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Feb 16, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
Hang tough Amy and Myles.

DMT
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Feb 16, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
your story sounds real.
hardships, everywhere!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2013 - 03:48pm PT
Hey Matty! Tell Emma we say howdy!

Amy is not letting me be a tough guy... I go in on Monday for the Ex-ray and to a barber for a shave... She is hating this thing I try calling a beard.

Thanks for the support ya'll... We will get the son of a gun!
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2013 - 04:03pm PT
Credit: Myles Moser
Credit: Myles Moser

Nice field repair
Nice field repair
Credit: Myles Moser
ruppell

climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 04:00pm PT
Emma's letting me keep mine. lol



That tower looks amazing man.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
I think if I shave it might make the ankle feel better or my face.
ruppell

climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 04:04pm PT
I here you. Ankles suck. They suck even worse when you've got big plans. Just ice the sh!te out of it and take lots of advil to keep the swelling down. I'm not a doctor but I play one on supertaco. lol Heal fast bro.
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 04:20pm PT
"This is our advanced base camp and day 4"


I think I have seen this movie before, it was called Beauty and the Beast, for christ sake, get a shave man.

Glad to hear you guys are still pushing it.

Myles, its just your ankle. it will be fine, get back up there and have a strong finish

Be safe.

Chow Mein


Edit. MAtt didnt I just see you all clean cut the other day, I better cut back on the smoke!

Edit 2 . Your hall bag looks like the Sputnick
crøtch

climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 06:34pm PT
Trip of a lifetime! You guys rock.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
Sputnik....mr. Spelling bee
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Feb 16, 2013 - 06:57pm PT
You have my sympathy. It's such a drag to get an injury when you're on a special trip.
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
But it is all nicked up.

Pun (play on words)

Thanks Myles , I certainly will never bee able to climb like you but its good to know we both can spell like shlt.


You better be working on a slide show of some sorts as there will be a big welcome home party and yes , you will be expected to perform.

Which brings me to a complete tangent, can I be your manager and start setting up Sponsors?


Go Amy and Miles!!!!!!woot woot!!!!!!!

Edit: I had no idea you were Russian the route.


mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 16, 2013 - 08:30pm PT
Hard as nails.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 16, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Miles or Myles?
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Feb 16, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
Distance traveled

Pun(play on words)


the weather is like spring here today , it felt like 65.
was romping on the ponies.


krahmes

Social climber
Stumptown
  Feb 17, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Roll with it guys.

On the ankle after the x-ray cold and compression; during healing/recovery I believe the current thinking is to leave the heat out of mix.

If you want some quackery on the intestinal problems short of Immodium and Antibotics; I always felt Papya extract helped; or you can grind up the seeds. With regards to the gut matters in general what doesn't kill makes ya stronger; so eat your yogurt.

As others have said hang tough. I hope ya get your weather window in strong health.
Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 17, 2013 - 06:24am PT
Thanks Krahmes, papaya huh?

I'll give it a shot.

Greg... Looking forward to the Sierra weather and dipping some potatoes in oil.
We will get the Central it just will be wild and wet. That Rainfly is trouble. Tell Russ I got some designs in mind.
10b4me

climber
  Feb 17, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
RICE= rest, ice, compression, elevation.
Once the swelling subsides, apply heat. Heat increases blood flow, which aids in the healing process.
ruppell

climber
  Feb 17, 2013 - 06:33pm PT
No rice for my buddy. He needs D.R.U.G.S

Drink
Relax
Unisom
Grass
Sleep

Repeat five times a day for three days. Works every time.

Feel better bro. And let us know what the xray says will you?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Feb 17, 2013 - 07:29pm PT
what a great TR,
you two rock!

"...what's it doing snowing in summer?"
you should go to Canada more often...
it's what Alpinism is all about, waiting to climb
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Feb 17, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
Who needs more than 4million docs???Your young,,and ya dont wana hoble any harder than ya gota,,keep on pushing baby||||Best of luck |||
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Feb 17, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
You guys are hard as nails, your TR's have proven that. Whatever happens, rest easy knowing that you two went as big as possible.

Myles Moser

climber
Lone Pine, Ca
Author's Reply  Feb 18, 2013 - 02:02pm PT
Alright good news...

http://roamingbanditos.blogspot.com/2013/02/was-it-eggs-or-was-it-water-is-wall.html


You could read the blog or just scroll to the bottom of it , but I' ll save you the hassle. Doctor says I just pissed off the ligaments. Heat and wrap he's says. We head back in to the park in two days. He also said stay off of it for two weeks... I might make it week.

Thanks for all the support y'all. Looking forward to digging into to the glacier for the equipment and storming the Tower!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
  Feb 18, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
You've got an audience, good luck!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Feb 19, 2013 - 02:53pm PT
You two strong like bull. Go git sum!!
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Feb 19, 2013 - 04:48pm PT


Great news!


Now take it nice and easy.

Better to go back when you are stronger than just go for it because you are there now.

Have Fun and be safe!
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Feb 19, 2013 - 04:53pm PT
wine and salad


haha, awesome!
WTF

climber
  Feb 19, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
Pain is weakness leaving the body go big you can do it.

We cheer for you both
ryankelly

Trad climber
el portal
  Feb 20, 2013 - 01:34am PT
its like a telenovella or something man.

right on.
John Mac

Trad climber
Littleton, CO
  Feb 20, 2013 - 08:09am PT
Hopefully by now you're had your fill of beer and pizza (or salad and wine), and are starting to feel better. Hang in there and I'm sure you will get it done. Thanks for sharing your adventure with us.
jfailing

Trad climber
PDX, North Slope, The Open Road
  Feb 20, 2013 - 09:41am PT
Yeahhh you two! Get that ankle better and keep doing what you do best - send the gnar!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 20, 2013 - 10:05am PT
hey there say, myles.... hope i spelled that right,:)

say, this was a really neat trip report, of course the report about
bein sick and the ankle, sure would have been better if all, in true, had never happened to pain you al, :(

the worst 'wish it never happened'was the sickness...
sorry to hear that... man oh man, it could have taken you for
weeks... :O good to hear it passed...


your picture even showed,:) (i am dail up)...
and, i enjoyed your blog link, too!

thanks very much!
god bless...


ps:
the ol' gray-taped haul bag, point on top,
loooks like a kids' toy plastic rocket, :))
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