Trip Report
Walleye... tell me a story (Nabisco Wall, Dave Shultz)
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Sunday October 4, 2009 7:37pm
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What was the deal with Schultz jumping into your aiders on the Nabisco Wall solo...?
Russ Walling
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About the Author
Russ Walling is a gym climber from Poofter's Froth, Wyoming. |
Comments
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:21pm PT
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Uh oh... Sounds like another episode of As The Cam Turns....
Russ calls walleye out onto the carpet. Will Walleye respond? Is Ouch pregnant? Who's the father? Is it Anna Nichole Smith?
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:26pm PT
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Hee hee hee
I remember that episode. Shultz does the butterballs placing only one piece and tells me he's ready to free solo the thing.
Ha I told the monkey he still has the rack on and it's not the same. The iron monkey doesn't believe me.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
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so what happened?
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:36pm PT
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photo; Walter J. Flint
Well Musskelunge, I'm glad you asked. It was 1987. In my attempt to emulate other climbing photographers who came before me, I enlisted the assistance of one David M. Schultz aka "The Iron Monkey" to further my career as a famous chronicler of Yosemite's best.
Now Dave wanted to follow in the footsteps (no pun intended) of a rather famous shoe salesman who, shall remain un-named, and some Canadian whose name escapes me, by soloing the ever hard splitter called Butterballs. Plans were made, static ropes secured and Kodachrome loaded into the Nikon F camera body.
I humped gear to the top of the Nabisco Wall, fixed a 200 foot piece of static line (a piece of rope used by the Georgia spelunkers on their famous yo-yo of the big stone by the way – (Thanks Werner) and proceeded to rap down to almost the beginning of Butterballs.
Now Mr. Schultz warmed up by soloing (I think) Bevs Tower to the rather appropriately named Monkey Island and that's when the fun began. Now, Mr Schultz did say something vaguely about "if I need to get off the thing, you'll come get me right?" I said “sure - no problem”, not really understanding what that meant exactly. So here I am, all 260 pounds of me hanging off my CMI ultra ascenders with my Nikon F camera and 35mm lens ready to record a historic moment. Dave starts climbing and is moving slow and methodical. He looks good milking every jam for maximum effect. After about 30 feet Dave slows down a bit and his expression becomes a little more pained. Now mind you, I'm about 15 above this rather muscular toehead and I think things look great. This coverage is gonna get me the cover of Climbing Magazine or some other rag and, I AM psyched!! Suddenly, the Iron Monkey stops cold in his tracks in the middle of some medium to high end 5.10 and sez "Wally I need you" I said "what do mean?" Dave sez "swing over here". So I down jumar a few feet and move right across the wall and become perfectly parallel with Dave. I say "what's up"? He sez "move up a few feet". So I do. I'm wondering: "what the hell is going on here"? So I'm about 8 feet above the blonde monkey, who has been hanging off finger locks for about 2-3 minutes. I say "Whaddayagonna do"? Schultz sez "I want the bottom step of you aider" OK......... I kick my right foot over and before I know what he's gonna do, the cheecky little monkey reaches over with his left hand, secures the bottom rung of my etrier with said paw, lets go with his right hand, matches hands, and now dangles by both hands off the bottom step of my aider. Holy Sh#t, I think, What now? I was too shocked to even take a photo of him hanging there. So, now Dave is hanging 400 feet above the ground by 2 hands on the bottom step of my right aider.
Now mind you Grant Hiskes was at the bottom of the cliff watching the whole thing and, what does the Monkey do? he kicks his leg so he can swing around, looks down at Grant and exclaims very loudly, "bgawck bgawck bawck bawck bawck bawck bawck" like a big old bantam weight rooster. I say waddaayagonna do now? Now I am ever mindful of the all those Death Valley Days stories of guys who had their jugs come off the rope at the most inopportune times, so I am tied in short to my harness with a locking biner. Dave grabs the rope, wraps it around his legs a couple of times, and body friction rappells off of my waist down to the top of Bevs Tower. The Monkey then downclimbs Bevs Tower free solo to the ground safe and sound. The rest, as they say, is history.
edit: The events in this story are true. No names have been changed or digital manipulation applied to protect the weak.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:37pm PT
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Read the first post.
I saw Walleye when I was coming back from climbing in his truck going the opposite way earlier today.
Maybe he went to L's to get boot licked and whipped?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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neat story
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
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Ah, boot licked and whipped! Dreamy
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
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kick asssssssssssss!™™™™™™™ This story is why Gore invented the internet. Good one WallEye!
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:48pm PT
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Some would call that hitting the "slow button" followed by "snail eye".
Now Russell, now that you've heard your story, get back to work. We blast for vacation tomorrow!!!
~Susan
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 13, 2007 - 07:57pm PT
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"Some would call that hitting the "slow button" followed by "snail eye".
Snail eye indeed!!!!!!! He who snail eyes off the solo and runs away, lives to snail eye another day.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
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Fuching Top Notch!
Outstanding.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Pebble Wrestling.... Badly lately.
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Apr 13, 2007 - 08:50pm PT
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Sweet tale, that I am sure Dave would rather we all forgot.
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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Apr 13, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
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Snail-Eye indeed, indeed!
Schultz soloed the Rostrum and a bunch of other hard shiite. Did the Nose and Salathe in a day. Those must be on Susan Peplow's list.
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susan peplow
climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Apr 13, 2007 - 09:16pm PT
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Hey Kevin, not on my list no way!! And for the record, my snail-eye starts at .6 solos.
Good on him and anyone else who's goes for it yet wise enough to know their limits.
~Susan
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 13, 2007 - 09:29pm PT
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Hey Mussy imagine my surprise when I saw the title of this thread. I was in a panic at first imagining all kinds of weird things. A good story though and one I been meaning to commit to print for years. Your thread got it done and I thank ya for it. Have a great vacation.
The Big Ass Lunkwad (as Schultz would call me)
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Anastasia
climber
Home
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
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Now that is a great story and very well written.
Gosh, I also know a shoe salesman and a Canadian that climb.
Must be a few hanging around this corner.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
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great story, thanks all for the effort!
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 13, 2007 - 10:17pm PT
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Anastasia
I can assure you that any relation between famous shoe salesman and frostbacks from the northland are purely coincidental.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 14, 2007 - 09:35am PT
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Great post! Freesoloing is definitely not horseshoes or hand grenades. Close doesn't cut it! Better to have friends nearby just in case. Glad we can all laugh about it now.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2007 - 09:53am PT
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Cosgrove tells me Shultz is now living in LA, doing very well for himself in some sort of Hollywood rigging support capacity; had some idea, started a company, now engaged in a lucrative partnership, driving a shiny new big arse truck, and enjoying himself.
The Iron Monkey a few years prior to Walleye's story:
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Apr 14, 2007 - 01:38pm PT
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Great Story! Thanks for sharing! I wonder if that was the first time a photographer saved the subject's ass. Maybe if you weren't there on a big fat cord he would have finished it -no other options except jump.
Are Dave and Holly still together? Did some climbing with her in the '90s and just about got in a big ass bar fight up at Diamond Jims (Sonora Pass) one night because of Holly, her friend, and one big redneck who, like others, had intentions on them. That was quite interesting. I might as well have been soloing butterballs. He was a big f*#ker. Don't know where Dave was. Down on chemo I think.
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 14, 2007 - 01:41pm PT
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Dave and Holly are still together and have two boys. Living in Newbury Park. www.zerogrigging.com
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 14, 2007 - 01:42pm PT
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that rigging thing he's got going looks impressive
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Apr 14, 2007 - 01:56pm PT
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Cool stuff!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 02:08pm PT
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Another photo of the Iron Monkey trying to get comfortable enough to drill.
Ken
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 14, 2007 - 02:37pm PT
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Dave got the 5th or 6th ascent of the Lightning back when people kept track of such things.
Photo: Walter J. Flint
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 14, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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And, he also got the first full free ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire Tip, by finally sending that jingus sloping mantle business that had repelled all others. What did Largo call it "Flint Hard and Flawless"?
Photo; Walter J. Flint
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 14, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
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Foonters need not apply. Solo on the North Face of the Rostrum, 1991.
Photo: Walter J. Flint
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 03:13pm PT
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Thanks for the story and the awesome photos Walter. Here is one of Dave Walking the Plank. Not the quality of your images.
Ken
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 14, 2007 - 03:18pm PT
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As Dave said "It was soooo scarey, I would never go back". Maybe Potter and Houlding can nab the 2nd on that one too. That looks RAD!!!!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 03:43pm PT
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I wish someone would. I will never go back either.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Apr 14, 2007 - 03:45pm PT
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When was that? Think the bolts are any good still?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 03:54pm PT
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Jerry, good question. Only one way to find out. They are 1/4" and were placed in 1986.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Apr 14, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
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Placed under duress no less. I'm sure they are bomber. I mean, twenty one years isn't that long.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
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More food for thought. The bolts are a hodgepodge of taperlocks, buttonheads, screwtops, and threaded machine bolts. We were financially challenged at the time and used whatever we could scrounge up. On the bright side, there were a few natural placements. The rock is the hardest to drill in that I have encountered in Yosemite.
Ken
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol
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Apr 14, 2007 - 05:05pm PT
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Great. That makes me feel better. As soon as this rib heals up I'll think about the second. LOL!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 14, 2007 - 05:35pm PT
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That is what I am going to do too. Just think about doing the second. This one shows the angle better.
Ken
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Apr 14, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
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Great story Walleye...can't believe I hadn't heard that one before. I was hanging around on the Nabisco Wall in a similar fashion when said shoe salesman soloed the route. The shoe salesman was quite a climber as well. Knocked off the Wafer first. Than sat on Monkey Island staring out at the river for a while--getting psyched I imagine. Then he fired the thing. Looked solid. One minor hitch in his getty up at the crux of Butterfingers--the one place on the route where you don't have your fingers into anything. You're just out there! Pretty impressive. I was wondering what to do if he fell...keep shooting pictures? Fortunately, I didn't have to make that decision. Maybe the shoesalesman will post a photo...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2007 - 09:10am PT
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Mark,
Shortly after that Nabisco Wall solo, a few of us gathered up over at the Ahwahnee and you presented a short slide show on the event; pretty darned impressive feat and nice coverage of it as well.
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 15, 2007 - 10:17am PT
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Really glad to hear Dave and Holly are doing well. Last saw Dave at Walt's memorial and I couldn't believe the size of that big truck he was motoring around in. Cracked me up.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Apr 15, 2007 - 10:23am PT
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Majorly cool action Walleye - wow.
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Apr 15, 2007 - 10:34am PT
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Gripping tales to be sure!! Palms sweatin' all the way!
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 17, 2007 - 05:32pm PT
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Even The "Iron Monkey" needs his beauty sleep.
Photo: WJF
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Apr 17, 2007 - 06:23pm PT
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Is this when Dave jumped into your aiders?
Ken
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 17, 2007 - 06:24pm PT
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Same year as the rescue. The ground up - no hangdogging ethic is still firmly entrenched in "The Trench". A headlock applied by Blue Rappin Rhondo in the Camp 4 parking lot would soon change Daves ethical considerations and the rest would be history. Attempting a ground up lead of the Stigma/Renegade 5.13d...
Photo: WJF
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 17, 2007 - 06:27pm PT
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Hey Ken
Can you say "CUT!!!!!!!" "We need another take"........
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 18, 2007 - 09:52am PT
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That's the most entertaining story we've had here in a while.
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Apr 23, 2007 - 06:31pm PT
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A bump and a
Hey Bacher post up the Chappy photos of your proud send of the Nabisco Wall. A momentous occasion in the free climbing history of Yosemite to say the least. Besides, it will make the Iron Monkey look that much more "Snail Eye" haha.
Now post it funky brother!
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Mimi
climber
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Apr 23, 2007 - 07:03pm PT
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Yeah, funky brother!
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Apr 23, 2007 - 07:32pm PT
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classic story
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Cool thread Walleye - I never knew that story about the Iron Monkey's attempt. What a hard core mutherfunker...
Shoe salesman on B-Balls. Photo: Mark Chapman
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Thanks John, now the thread is complete.
Better late than never.
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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I just love these stories and pictures. Even when it displays so dramatically my own limits and weakness. It's one thing to have skill like so many humans do. It's a whole nother thing to risk you life on that skill. To somehow KNOW you can do it and that you WILL do it or life ends. Confidence to the max.
I'll never do any of that but many possibilities to "step up", are still there. Perhaps one day, I'll get Karl or somebody to let me jug up their rope on a big wall.
Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column? (I know, for many of you, it's not)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Feb 6, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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sammylee2 writes: Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column?
They do it every year, without a rope gun. When are you going?
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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check out that pic of Bachar!
that's the single greatest rockclimbing pic in the world -
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Blinny
Trad climber
I'mNotBlanchard!
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Yeah. . . ThatLittleBachStar. . . what a cutie pie!
eKat _ _ _ _ _ _ OldDadBrockWoman
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Good observation Ray. And, I think that on the day that Chappy took that photo, that dude was the greatest pure rock climber on Planet Earth. Harumph!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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What a great story. Buggs has one about Dave going past him on the East Buttress of Middle or something. Thanks for the Tale!
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Prod
Trad climber
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To think I was expecting something like this....
48 hours quote...
"Jack, tell me a story."
"F*#k You!"
"Oh thats one of my favorites."
Great thread.
Prod.
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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Gosh, what an "interesting thread". That Schultzy sounds real crazy. I wonder if there's anything else could be said about him?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Thanks for the bum, K.
Love the call out by Russ-In-Peace
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:08pm PT
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Bump for the bottom feeding Musskelunge
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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What's with the sudden bout of blatant self promotion?
Bump
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Feb 25, 2009 - 06:26pm PT
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Hey Jingy
Back Off
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Author's Reply
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:29pm PT
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It's a "favorite TR" bump day Jingy..... those were of course my favorites.
C'mon, give us a treat.... write a TR about your masturbation routine in the cubicle. Omit nothing.
oh... did this just bump it?
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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Ha hahahahahahhahahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Russ Walling, my hero.......
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
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I'm with Brooke- I blacked out the pink stripes on my Lasers too.
But nowadays, pink's the new black.
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Apr 21, 2009 - 02:06pm PT
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Hey, didn't an unnamed Brit who lived and died by the sword, also free-solo the Nabisco Wall??
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 21, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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Not sure what unnamed Brit your thinking of but the one I can recall sprayed a bunch about soloing a lowly 11c--AstroMan--then hung on Outer Limits...all before giving the fruit of Ozzie's loins a tour in the Alps and up the Captain. But that's probably not who you were thinking of.
More about the 'awesome back of Schultz' please.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Dec 23, 2010 - 11:00am PT
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Just revisited this great story. BUMP for those who have not seen it...now to go dry off my palms.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Dec 23, 2010 - 10:09pm PT
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Me too, great stuff!
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Dec 26, 2010 - 10:09am PT
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Great tale, killer thread!
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Dec 26, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
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Great Roof, Nose, El Cap
The Iron Monkey even kicked cancers ass. I took this moments before he stepped into the hospital to get his staples removed. These were from the chemo treatments and surgery
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Buju
Big Wall climber
the range of light
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Dec 26, 2010 - 01:05pm PT
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Great story!
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squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
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Dec 26, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
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RAD!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Dec 26, 2010 - 08:54pm PT
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Wow! exhilarating history with a grand combination of humor and bravado.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Dec 27, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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He saved my ass one day. But the story will follow me to the grave.
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