Trip Report
Walleye... tell me a story (Nabisco Wall, Dave Shultz)
Sunday October 4, 2009 10:37pm
Dave Schultz on Nabisco Wall
Dave Schultz on Nabisco Wall
Credit: Walter J. Flint photo

What was the deal with Schultz jumping into your aiders on the Nabisco Wall solo...?

  Trip Report Views: 3,125
Russ Walling
About the Author
Russ Walling is a gym climber from Poofter's Froth, Wyoming.

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rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
Uh oh... Sounds like another episode of As The Cam Turns....

Russ calls walleye out onto the carpet. Will Walleye respond? Is Ouch pregnant? Who's the father? Is it Anna Nichole Smith?
WBraun

climber
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
Hee hee hee

I remember that episode. Shultz does the butterballs placing only one piece and tells me he's ready to free solo the thing.

Ha I told the monkey he still has the rack on and it's not the same. The iron monkey doesn't believe me.

Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:31pm PT
so what happened?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:36pm PT

photo; Walter J. Flint

Well Musskelunge, I'm glad you asked. It was 1987. In my attempt to emulate other climbing photographers who came before me, I enlisted the assistance of one David M. Schultz aka "The Iron Monkey" to further my career as a famous chronicler of Yosemite's best.

Now Dave wanted to follow in the footsteps (no pun intended) of a rather famous shoe salesman who, shall remain un-named, and some Canadian whose name escapes me, by soloing the ever hard splitter called Butterballs. Plans were made, static ropes secured and Kodachrome loaded into the Nikon F camera body.

I humped gear to the top of the Nabisco Wall, fixed a 200 foot piece of static line (a piece of rope used by the Georgia spelunkers on their famous yo-yo of the big stone by the way – (Thanks Werner) and proceeded to rap down to almost the beginning of Butterballs.

Now Mr. Schultz warmed up by soloing (I think) Bevs Tower to the rather appropriately named Monkey Island and that's when the fun began. Now, Mr Schultz did say something vaguely about "if I need to get off the thing, you'll come get me right?" I said “sure - no problem”, not really understanding what that meant exactly. So here I am, all 260 pounds of me hanging off my CMI ultra ascenders with my Nikon F camera and 35mm lens ready to record a historic moment. Dave starts climbing and is moving slow and methodical. He looks good milking every jam for maximum effect. After about 30 feet Dave slows down a bit and his expression becomes a little more pained. Now mind you, I'm about 15 above this rather muscular toehead and I think things look great. This coverage is gonna get me the cover of Climbing Magazine or some other rag and, I AM psyched!! Suddenly, the Iron Monkey stops cold in his tracks in the middle of some medium to high end 5.10 and sez "Wally I need you" I said "what do mean?" Dave sez "swing over here". So I down jumar a few feet and move right across the wall and become perfectly parallel with Dave. I say "what's up"? He sez "move up a few feet". So I do. I'm wondering: "what the hell is going on here"? So I'm about 8 feet above the blonde monkey, who has been hanging off finger locks for about 2-3 minutes. I say "Whaddayagonna do"? Schultz sez "I want the bottom step of you aider" OK......... I kick my right foot over and before I know what he's gonna do, the cheecky little monkey reaches over with his left hand, secures the bottom rung of my etrier with said paw, lets go with his right hand, matches hands, and now dangles by both hands off the bottom step of my aider. Holy Sh#t, I think, What now? I was too shocked to even take a photo of him hanging there. So, now Dave is hanging 400 feet above the ground by 2 hands on the bottom step of my right aider.

Now mind you Grant Hiskes was at the bottom of the cliff watching the whole thing and, what does the Monkey do? he kicks his leg so he can swing around, looks down at Grant and exclaims very loudly, "bgawck bgawck bawck bawck bawck bawck bawck" like a big old bantam weight rooster. I say waddaayagonna do now? Now I am ever mindful of the all those Death Valley Days stories of guys who had their jugs come off the rope at the most inopportune times, so I am tied in short to my harness with a locking biner. Dave grabs the rope, wraps it around his legs a couple of times, and body friction rappells off of my waist down to the top of Bevs Tower. The Monkey then downclimbs Bevs Tower free solo to the ground safe and sound. The rest, as they say, is history.

edit: The events in this story are true. No names have been changed or digital manipulation applied to protect the weak.

WBraun

climber
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:37pm PT
Read the first post.

I saw Walleye when I was coming back from climbing in his truck going the opposite way earlier today.

Maybe he went to L's to get boot licked and whipped?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
neat story
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:41pm PT
Ah, boot licked and whipped! Dreamy
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
kick asssssssssssss!™™™™™™™ This story is why Gore invented the internet. Good one WallEye!
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:48pm PT
Some would call that hitting the "slow button" followed by "snail eye".

Now Russell, now that you've heard your story, get back to work. We blast for vacation tomorrow!!!

~Susan
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 13, 2007 - 10:57pm PT
"Some would call that hitting the "slow button" followed by "snail eye".

Snail eye indeed!!!!!!! He who snail eyes off the solo and runs away, lives to snail eye another day.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Apr 13, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
Fuching Top Notch!
Outstanding.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
  Apr 13, 2007 - 11:50pm PT
Sweet tale, that I am sure Dave would rather we all forgot.
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
  Apr 13, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Snail-Eye indeed, indeed!
Schultz soloed the Rostrum and a bunch of other hard shiite. Did the Nose and Salathe in a day. Those must be on Susan Peplow's list.
susan peplow

climber
Joshua Tree, CA
  Apr 14, 2007 - 12:16am PT
Hey Kevin, not on my list no way!! And for the record, my snail-eye starts at .6 solos.

Good on him and anyone else who's goes for it yet wise enough to know their limits.

~Susan
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 12:29am PT
Hey Mussy imagine my surprise when I saw the title of this thread. I was in a panic at first imagining all kinds of weird things. A good story though and one I been meaning to commit to print for years. Your thread got it done and I thank ya for it. Have a great vacation.
The Big Ass Lunkwad (as Schultz would call me)
Anastasia

climber
Home
  Apr 14, 2007 - 01:12am PT
Now that is a great story and very well written.
Gosh, I also know a shoe salesman and a Canadian that climb.
Must be a few hanging around this corner.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Apr 14, 2007 - 01:16am PT
great story, thanks all for the effort!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 01:17am PT
Anastasia
I can assure you that any relation between famous shoe salesman and frostbacks from the northland are purely coincidental.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Apr 14, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
Great post! Freesoloing is definitely not horseshoes or hand grenades. Close doesn't cut it! Better to have friends nearby just in case. Glad we can all laugh about it now.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Apr 14, 2007 - 12:53pm PT
Cosgrove tells me Shultz is now living in LA, doing very well for himself in some sort of Hollywood rigging support capacity; had some idea, started a company, now engaged in a lucrative partnership, driving a shiny new big arse truck, and enjoying himself.

The Iron Monkey a few years prior to Walleye's story:



Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Apr 14, 2007 - 04:38pm PT
Great Story! Thanks for sharing! I wonder if that was the first time a photographer saved the subject's ass. Maybe if you weren't there on a big fat cord he would have finished it -no other options except jump.

Are Dave and Holly still together? Did some climbing with her in the '90s and just about got in a big ass bar fight up at Diamond Jims (Sonora Pass) one night because of Holly, her friend, and one big redneck who, like others, had intentions on them. That was quite interesting. I might as well have been soloing butterballs. He was a big f*#ker. Don't know where Dave was. Down on chemo I think.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 04:41pm PT
Dave and Holly are still together and have two boys. Living in Newbury Park. www.zerogrigging.com
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Apr 14, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
that rigging thing he's got going looks impressive
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Apr 14, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
Cool stuff!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 14, 2007 - 05:08pm PT
Another photo of the Iron Monkey trying to get comfortable enough to drill.



Ken
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
Dave got the 5th or 6th ascent of the Lightning back when people kept track of such things.


Photo: Walter J. Flint
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 05:46pm PT
And, he also got the first full free ascent of the Lost Arrow Spire Tip, by finally sending that jingus sloping mantle business that had repelled all others. What did Largo call it "Flint Hard and Flawless"?


Photo; Walter J. Flint
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 06:00pm PT
Foonters need not apply. Solo on the North Face of the Rostrum, 1991.


Photo: Walter J. Flint
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 14, 2007 - 06:13pm PT
Thanks for the story and the awesome photos Walter. Here is one of Dave Walking the Plank. Not the quality of your images.



Ken
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 14, 2007 - 06:18pm PT
As Dave said "It was soooo scarey, I would never go back". Maybe Potter and Houlding can nab the 2nd on that one too. That looks RAD!!!!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 14, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
I wish someone would. I will never go back either.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Apr 14, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
When was that? Think the bolts are any good still?
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 14, 2007 - 06:54pm PT
Jerry, good question. Only one way to find out. They are 1/4" and were placed in 1986.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Apr 14, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
Placed under duress no less. I'm sure they are bomber. I mean, twenty one years isn't that long.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 14, 2007 - 07:41pm PT
More food for thought. The bolts are a hodgepodge of taperlocks, buttonheads, screwtops, and threaded machine bolts. We were financially challenged at the time and used whatever we could scrounge up. On the bright side, there were a few natural placements. The rock is the hardest to drill in that I have encountered in Yosemite.

Ken
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol
  Apr 14, 2007 - 08:05pm PT
Great. That makes me feel better. As soon as this rib heals up I'll think about the second. LOL!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 14, 2007 - 08:35pm PT
That is what I am going to do too. Just think about doing the second. This one shows the angle better.



Ken
chappy

Social climber
ventura
  Apr 14, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Great story Walleye...can't believe I hadn't heard that one before. I was hanging around on the Nabisco Wall in a similar fashion when said shoe salesman soloed the route. The shoe salesman was quite a climber as well. Knocked off the Wafer first. Than sat on Monkey Island staring out at the river for a while--getting psyched I imagine. Then he fired the thing. Looked solid. One minor hitch in his getty up at the crux of Butterfingers--the one place on the route where you don't have your fingers into anything. You're just out there! Pretty impressive. I was wondering what to do if he fell...keep shooting pictures? Fortunately, I didn't have to make that decision. Maybe the shoesalesman will post a photo...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Apr 15, 2007 - 12:10pm PT
Mark,
Shortly after that Nabisco Wall solo, a few of us gathered up over at the Ahwahnee and you presented a short slide show on the event; pretty darned impressive feat and nice coverage of it as well.
Mimi

climber
  Apr 15, 2007 - 01:17pm PT
Really glad to hear Dave and Holly are doing well. Last saw Dave at Walt's memorial and I couldn't believe the size of that big truck he was motoring around in. Cracked me up.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Apr 15, 2007 - 01:23pm PT
Majorly cool action Walleye - wow.
Watusi

Social climber
Newport, OR
  Apr 15, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
Gripping tales to be sure!! Palms sweatin' all the way!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 17, 2007 - 08:32pm PT
Even The "Iron Monkey" needs his beauty sleep.


Photo: WJF
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
  Apr 17, 2007 - 09:23pm PT
Is this when Dave jumped into your aiders?



Ken
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 17, 2007 - 09:24pm PT
Same year as the rescue. The ground up - no hangdogging ethic is still firmly entrenched in "The Trench". A headlock applied by Blue Rappin Rhondo in the Camp 4 parking lot would soon change Daves ethical considerations and the rest would be history. Attempting a ground up lead of the Stigma/Renegade 5.13d...


Photo: WJF
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 17, 2007 - 09:27pm PT
Hey Ken
Can you say "CUT!!!!!!!" "We need another take"........
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Apr 18, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
Brothers from different mothers? You be the judge.

David Bowie/Aladdin Sane:
Iron Monkey:




eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Apr 18, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
That's the most entertaining story we've had here in a while.
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Apr 23, 2007 - 09:31pm PT
A bump and a

Hey Bacher post up the Chappy photos of your proud send of the Nabisco Wall. A momentous occasion in the free climbing history of Yosemite to say the least. Besides, it will make the Iron Monkey look that much more "Snail Eye" haha.
Now post it funky brother!
Mimi

climber
  Apr 23, 2007 - 10:03pm PT
Yeah, funky brother!
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
  Apr 23, 2007 - 10:32pm PT
classic story
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Feb 2, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
Cool thread Walleye - I never knew that story about the Iron Monkey's attempt. What a hard core mutherfunker...

Shoe salesman on B-Balls. Photo: Mark Chapman

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Feb 2, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
Thanks John, now the thread is complete.

Better late than never.
SammyLee2

Trad climber
Memphis, TN
  Feb 2, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
I just love these stories and pictures. Even when it displays so dramatically my own limits and weakness. It's one thing to have skill like so many humans do. It's a whole nother thing to risk you life on that skill. To somehow KNOW you can do it and that you WILL do it or life ends. Confidence to the max.

I'll never do any of that but many possibilities to "step up", are still there. Perhaps one day, I'll get Karl or somebody to let me jug up their rope on a big wall.

Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column? (I know, for many of you, it's not)
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Feb 6, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
sammylee2 writes: Just curious, could two 5.8 to 5.9 climbers and a rope gun get up a big wall, maybe like Washington Column?

They do it every year, without a rope gun. When are you going?
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Feb 6, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
check out that pic of Bachar!
that's the single greatest rockclimbing pic in the world -
Blinny

Trad climber
  Feb 6, 2008 - 09:45pm PT
Yeah. . . ThatLittleBachStar. . . what a cutie pie!

eKat _ _ _ _ _ _ OldDadBrockWoman
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Feb 6, 2008 - 11:41pm PT
Good observation Ray. And, I think that on the day that Chappy took that photo, that dude was the greatest pure rock climber on Planet Earth. Harumph!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Feb 6, 2008 - 11:52pm PT
What a great story. Buggs has one about Dave going past him on the East Buttress of Middle or something. Thanks for the Tale!
Prod

Trad climber
  Feb 7, 2008 - 09:21am PT
To think I was expecting something like this....

48 hours quote...

"Jack, tell me a story."
"F*#k You!"
"Oh thats one of my favorites."

Great thread.

Prod.
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
  Dec 5, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
Gosh, what an "interesting thread". That Schultzy sounds real crazy. I wonder if there's anything else could be said about him?
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Dec 5, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
Thanks for the bum, K.

Love the call out by Russ-In-Peace
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Dec 6, 2008 - 01:45pm PT
Dave instructing Brooke Sandahl on how to send Midnight Lightning. Brooke made it to the sidepull mantle move on his first try ever on the Lightning, very impressive!



"Bucket Brigade" Elephant Rock



"South Face" of the Column

Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
Bump for the bottom feeding Musskelunge
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
What's with the sudden bout of blatant self promotion?

Bump
Fish Finder

Social climber
  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:26pm PT



Hey Jingy


Back Off
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2009 - 10:29pm PT
It's a "favorite TR" bump day Jingy..... those were of course my favorites.

C'mon, give us a treat.... write a TR about your masturbation routine in the cubicle. Omit nothing.

oh... did this just bump it?
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Feb 25, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
Ha hahahahahahhahahahahahaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Russ Walling, my hero.......
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 25, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
I'm with Brooke- I blacked out the pink stripes on my Lasers too.
But nowadays, pink's the new black.
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Apr 21, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
Hey, didn't an unnamed Brit who lived and died by the sword, also free-solo the Nabisco Wall??
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Apr 21, 2009 - 06:12pm PT
Not sure what unnamed Brit your thinking of but the one I can recall sprayed a bunch about soloing a lowly 11c--AstroMan--then hung on Outer Limits...all before giving the fruit of Ozzie's loins a tour in the Alps and up the Captain. But that's probably not who you were thinking of.

More about the 'awesome back of Schultz' please.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
  Dec 23, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
Just revisited this great story. BUMP for those who have not seen it...now to go dry off my palms.
couchmaster

climber
  Dec 24, 2010 - 01:09am PT
Me too, great stuff!
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Dec 26, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
Great tale, killer thread!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Dec 26, 2010 - 03:10pm PT
Great Roof, Nose, El Cap
Credit: Walleye

The Iron Monkey even kicked cancers ass. I took this moments before he stepped into the hospital to get his staples removed. These were from the chemo treatments and surgery
Credit: Walleye
Buju

Big Wall climber
the range of light
  Dec 26, 2010 - 04:05pm PT
Great story!
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
  Dec 26, 2010 - 11:18pm PT
RAD!!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  Dec 26, 2010 - 11:54pm PT
Wow! exhilarating history with a grand combination of humor and bravado.
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Dec 27, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
He saved my ass one day. But the story will follow me to the grave.
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