Trip Report
Vedauwoo & Deto Mini photo TR(Articles from the Jeep part 2)
Tuesday October 14, 2008 9:35am
The brotherman, the new age dirtbag, a vagabond playing poker and climbing rocks...who says dirtbagging is dead?!...it's just changed a bit...that is if you know a thing or two about internet poker...

Currently the brother is down in Vedauwoo...and recently leaked some photos...by that I mean emailed to me whilst Pat was 'working' at a coffee shop on a restday...


The Hobgoblin

Happy Hour

Crack Named Sue

Pat's been camping near Alice and To The Moon, and says it's a good site and close(r) to the central area. He joked that since no one camped at the official Bugaloo site(besides us(after the first weekend)) this year, that next year we're gonna move to this site...

Alice



To The Moon


Before this action Pat and crew was up hanging with the Colonel in Deto...

Trevor on Doldrums

Pat way out on a string of body weight placements...

Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm while Dave finishes cleaning the pitch. Three guys, no headlamps...

Dave on a new free route Hourglass



Sounds like another week in the woo, then south towards the desert...who knows what adventures are in store? Pat only mentions ideas here and there...something about a new route in Castle Valley...but who really knows...

Cheers,
Tom AKA the public relations rep
(reporting from the backwaters of Montucky)

  Trip Report Views: 1,526
TKingsbury
About the Author
TKingsbury is a trad climber from MT.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
klk

Trad climber
cali
  Oct 14, 2008 - 09:42am PT
bump for grainy, painful wide cracks in cold damp weather.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Oct 14, 2008 - 09:43am PT
Ahhh...the refreshing sight of new climbing photographs--like the second puff of a phatty bone.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 14, 2008 - 10:24am PT
more here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=693983
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 14, 2008 - 10:29am PT
Wish I knew how to play poker...
teach it to sped kids on an itinerant basis?
salad

Big Wall climber
  Oct 14, 2008 - 10:31am PT
good show!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 14, 2008 - 10:34am PT
Never too late to start learning Jay...lots of free 'playmoney' tournaments running on many sites. Good way to start to get a feel for it...

I'm sure Pat would trade poker tips for OW tips though
Mike.

climber
  Oct 15, 2008 - 09:00am PT
Good shots and action. Cool, TK.
montanaclimber

Trad climber
Marysville, MT
  Oct 15, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
Nice!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 15, 2008 - 03:27pm PT
Dunno, Tom, appears your Bro has all the odub skills anyone could acquire; I'd still like to figure out how to be a newage, geriatric dirtbag climber; just need an income and more rest days...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 15, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
regardless, honing in OW skills is always good...as is honing in the poker skills...both take time and practice. Books help with the later more than the former(at least for me)...

Oh...to be able to have that freedom...I better keep reading...

Zander

climber
  Oct 15, 2008 - 04:28pm PT
Ha ha! You guys are having way to much fun.
Zander
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Oct 15, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
thanks for postin' up for me tom!!! and all the nice comments!!!

another day at the woo and it was a good one!!! time for brews now...

the big pink is GNARLY....we got our asses kicked good!!! but i think i figured out the beta (grovel) haha....saving that one for another day....

can't send .11b , so we jumped on .11c (damage done) very good switch up from the wideness!

photos to come....

cheers,

patrick
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Oct 15, 2008 - 09:18pm PT
bravo!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 15, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
short but Pink has it's moments, prolly why it needed two FFA's

Seen the needles but never did the Damage done

Ed, Baobob tree
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Oct 15, 2008 - 10:07pm PT
damn... it did start with a "b"
BrendaPuff

Sport climber
Boulder, Co.
  Oct 15, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
bump

Anastasia

climber
Home
  Oct 15, 2008 - 11:01pm PT
Bump!
khanom

Trad climber
Greeley Hill
  Oct 16, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
Yup, and....


bump.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 16, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
How's things, high in the sherman granite, today?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 17, 2008 - 11:34am PT
Just got off the phone with the brotherman...current location Boulder,CO...heading into Eldo for some climbing...maybe he'll see some people from the taco?
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
  Oct 23, 2008 - 09:03pm PT
So, PK I saw it was 7 in Buford this morning. How is the winter camping? Have fun wherever you are!!

the museum
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 23, 2008 - 09:09pm PT
yeah, but times are always hot in Buford...




Be carefull in Greenie land, Pat we all know about the sorts that lurk there...
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Oct 23, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
Pat the Montanan/Minnesotan can handle them cold temps. He just has to find a native to help keep him warm, hehe.
Mtnmun

Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
  Oct 23, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
God, I need a long climbing trip. This is so inspiring, have a great time guys.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Oct 24, 2008 - 10:29am PT
the camping got a bit cold, but wasn't to bad....ive got a -30 sleeping bag....

climbed a few more days at the woo, and bailed to boulder for a few days of climbing in eldo, and helped roy with his car port project for a day. some pics to come.....

then headed to the creek and have been here a few days....just had to re-up the propane.

think we'll be climbing here for awhile....

cheers,

patrick
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 24, 2008 - 10:33am PT
Brotherman, email me those pics!

Also sounds like I'll be heading down for the turkey week...maybe Kalah too!

w00t!
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
  Oct 24, 2008 - 11:11am PT
Have a super fun time you guys!

brad
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Oct 24, 2008 - 11:48am PT
Kingsburys, I mentioned to Molly that I wanted to take the kids down there and she said, "I want to go too." She's trying to get off Weds. and Fri. around T-day, so we can spend a few days with y'all.

Hopefully, her work will accommodate, otherwise, it's me and the chitlen--we'll see.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 24, 2008 - 11:51am PT
KEY-LAR!

(killer!)

EDIT: where will the museum crew be for the day of turkeys?
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Casper the Friendly Ghost Town!
  Oct 24, 2008 - 11:54am PT
Climbing in down jackets?! Must've been mid-July or early August? I miss those days...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 24, 2008 - 11:58am PT
well we were down in vedauwoo in august for the boogaloo...but Pat then returned for the first 2 weeks(?) of October...so the down coat pics are from then...

Current happens of a 'new age dirtbag'...wish I was on the road with him...
Dick_Lugar

Trad climber
Casper the Friendly Ghost Town!
  Oct 24, 2008 - 01:07pm PT
Yeah, I think I saw those pics were from Oct. Still hardcore. I climbed out there a few times in bitter cold...felt like climbing at high(er) altitude. Hands, feet and fingers numb, like banging rubber mallets against rock! Thx. for the pics and TR.
the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City
  Oct 24, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
TK, I know this sounds crazee but we might visit our nephew in FARGO,ND - weather permitting. Fargo is of course the opposite of the Front Range. We'll see - we've headed south before too! Keep us posted!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 27, 2008 - 09:47am PT
Fargo? That's fairly close to my old hometown...heck of a drive across ol nordak...


----------------------------



Well, the brother is now in the Moab/Creek area...he's been resting a bit due to the circulation issues...hopefully he resolves that and is feeling better soon. Weird thing for a young guy like Pat...

Some recent photos covering his last few days in Vedauwoo and some time in Eldo...


Old Dog's New Trick


Plum Line


Dave on Big Pink


Damage Done


Soft Parade






from Pat's email:

"linking practice climb 101 into sidewall, note the ditching of a rope, and leading on a 8.6 half/twin for the next pitch....yoowzaa

its the only time Ive ever untied from a rope while on lead, felt very weird...."




Zip Code



More commentary from Pat:

"Roy finishing up Emerald City, which we linked into Over the Hill, a super fun day for sure!

and over the hills final pitch (5.9) super classic!..."



"...think that's all for now brotherman

cheers.

patrick"






-Tom aka the PR rep

cowpoke

climber
  Oct 27, 2008 - 10:56am PT
TK: thanks so much for this thread. it's fabulous to live vicariously through your bro. great pics, and both the climbing(e.g., turning plumb line into a boulder problem) and trip length are keeping my weekend warriorness inspired.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Oct 28, 2008 - 06:38am PT
A morning bump...since I don't think Tarbuster has seen the pics he took yet...

Talked to Pat last night, he says he is feeling much better...thanks for y'alls concern in the other thread.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Oct 28, 2008 - 07:26am PT
Pat Kingsbury... a modern, every man's hero!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2008 - 03:05pm PT
More news from the brother and the creek...

Pat and Dave have now joined forces with some other transients, and have been relaxing at the creek. I chatted with Pat briefly today, who filled me in on the recent happenings. Put yer goggles on, cause I might spray a bit...


Dave on Cat Paw a sweet ow/flare thing on the cat wall. Both he and Pat scored an onsight...Nice work fellas!


Dave attempting Mousetrap....haven't gone back yet, but maybe tommorrow....


Pat's war wounds from Mousetrap


Pat onsighting Layaway Plan. Nice bro!


Dave lower on Layaway Plan


Pat and Dave make a new friend!



Pat onsighting Monster Truck(.12-)...Dang kid!


secrets revealed: tagging up gear for the upper section...


130 feet, going from fist to OW...


Then Pat onsighted:


yet he didn't get any action pics...so here's one I found of the route:

(pic from mountainproj)
http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/106193443



Joi at the Pistol Whipped Wall


Dave on Left Crack



Well that's all for now. These pics are getting me psyched for the upcoming thanksgiving trip...only a few more weeks...

Cheers,

Tom AKA Pat's PR rep

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 5, 2008 - 07:13pm PT
The boys doing their best,
Helpin' an old guy out with his car port project.
(I've been calling it a quonset lately; sounds less trailor trashy)




They were handsomely paid with beers and lunch!
(And I cooked up some of their green bud so I got the labor and the buzz, cool deal...)


Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 5, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
Positive Buzzz vibes!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2008 - 07:27pm PT
Looks like a fine structure to me...is it finished now Roy? Any pics?

Pretty cool they were able to lend a hand.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 5, 2008 - 07:58pm PT
It's pretty much done, all shrouded up now and I'm happy with it (no pictures just yet).
I'm still working on the vestibule; I've been entertaining small sessions at the sewing machine, just have to attach it.
The boys were of big help!!!

Here's what was going on the night before they arrived, with my buddy John helping:







TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 5, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
Some good progress

John looks like a character!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 5, 2008 - 08:58pm PT
Here is what the front door looks like as she stands right now:



dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
  Nov 10, 2008 - 06:57am PT
Free advice.Stay out of Boulder.Its been the ruin of many a poor boy.and god I know Im one.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 08:09am PT
Sounds like good advice.



Recent photos from the brotherman...coming at ya



Pat back on Mousetrap...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 08:36am PT


Looking up at Ziji, Tibetan for 'monumental elegance'

#7

from:
http://books.google.com/books?id=zIDTSTJ8kJ0C&pg=PP1#PPP1,M1

man, alot guidebooks on google books...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 08:41am PT




Aaron following the first pitch
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 08:46am PT
Pat on the 2nd pitch, the crux face traverse



TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 08:50am PT

Pat starting up the 3rd pitch
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 08:56am PT
Summit Celebration!



Looking down the west face of the King of Pain, at Joel coming up Rites of Passage
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 09:01am PT

The usual suspects...


That's the recent happenings...in two weeks I'll be hopefully sitting at the fire...sounds like a good idea. Maybe I'll see you there?

Cheers,

Tom AKA the PR rep
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 10, 2008 - 09:09am PT
Ziji!!!
The boys tagged a proud route.
That thing looks really, really good.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 10, 2008 - 09:15am PT
Another one one that comes reccomended, that I've never done, sigh.
Cheers team!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 10, 2008 - 10:25am PT
overview shot from mountainproject

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 10, 2008 - 11:13pm PT
Yah,
I been' up Vision Quest...no big, but the 5.7 air stem topside is cool.
NOW, notice how ZIJI don't evun show on that pic???
That's cuz it is like...1" jams in those upper pitches.
BKW

Mountain climber
Central Texas
  Nov 11, 2008 - 08:33am PT
Thanks for the photos. I gotta go there one day.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Nov 11, 2008 - 10:01am PT
TK, the route that I was thinking of and tried to describe to you was: "Liquid Sky"--North Six Shooter East Face, Bridger Jack Area. I'm a bettin' that you've a heard of it.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 11, 2008 - 10:05am PT
Sounds pretty stout Moj...anyone here ever get on that thing?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 11, 2008 - 10:09am PT
Did you climb Liquid Sky? (it's on No Six shooter) I've always wanted to, but never been on it. After the first ascent the only ascents I've heard of were Platinum Rob and partner one xmas eve day back in the nineties, and Cam What's name (who climbed in Cuba with Luebben)a bit later.

Luebben wrote an article about getting up there and being afraid he waould get stuck, and bailed.

Send it! if you haven't, yet.
Pat, if you're still out there send it for the rest of us.
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Nov 11, 2008 - 10:12am PT
Jaybro, I had read that Luebben article you mentioned, and at that moment my curiousity peaked as to how a small feller might do on it.


edit: ...er, person, rather.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 11, 2008 - 10:14am PT
Looks stout!



Mark Fisher photo

recent ascent...
http://backcountryblog.blogspot.com/2008/02/watching-liquid-sky-in-indian-creek.html
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Nov 11, 2008 - 10:16am PT
That Cam guy is fairly small and he cruised it.
Platinum Rob is about 5,10", Luebben isn't that much bigger. I think it actually favors those of modest height.

Cool link! Thanks.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 15, 2008 - 08:08am PT
From last night's meal...

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 15, 2008 - 09:04am PT
Nearly, almost ...unbelievable!
I think we've been trolled...
(in the nicest way I'm sure)
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Nov 30, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
Back from the creek...damn fun time!

Pat on a redpoint of the Cyborg



and the fortune cookie was real...no shit
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Nov 30, 2008 - 03:06pm PT
Nice!!!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Dec 1, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
Although the weather forecast for the Creek was not too promising for Thanksgiving day, Brady and I headed down to visit the K-bros and maybe get some climbing in. Our mission became one of holiday, and we shifted the effort to providing the Creek crew with some Turkey Day feastin'.

When we arrived, spirits were low, with most of the gang wanting to bug out--but once the challenge was issued to cook a turkey with all the trimmings on an open fire, the call was answered and we all had a good reason to stay in the drizzling weather.


The crew in need of a morale boost.


First task was the assembly of the oven, and coal preparation.


Chef Brady with the stuffed turkey awaiting the heat.


Luckily, I had brought two totes with hardwood flooring scraps (ash, oak, fir, walnut, and alder) to make hot, lasting coals.


Gravy, stuffing, and spuds.


Dirt bagger Pat scarfing a drumstick.


Time for the pies (punkin', pecan, and apple crisp), to be topped with fresh, honey-cooked cranberries.


Pat's 5-week pillow, all broke in with good dreams.

The Bozeman crew all left for home and/or dryer places to climb. Brady and I hit the Big Bend boulders passing through Moab en route to Ibex.

Brady sampling the sandstone.


Random pad-moocher getting serious.


Anatomy of a bad photo session.


Mojede pulling on the quartzite of Ibex.


Brady sending with a little help from the pads at the start.


My proudest send--I flashed a short, funky V2, hehe.

Overall, I was glad to get out on the road, and though I missed Molly and the kids, it was a holiday saved by good friends gathering cheer.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
Nice Hutch!

Damn, you ended up at Ibex?! Cool looking sh#t dude!

Thanks again for bringing the turkey and good cheer!


From left to right:
Mojede, Brady, LizR, Zack, Joel, P.Kingsbury, Trevor, Neil, Ashley, and Dave



Haven't had much of a chance to sort though and resize the photos yet...soon enough

Cheers,

Tom
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2008 - 03:59pm PT
Damn...don't all respond at once now...

Once again another example of a thread being added to and ignored...guess I/we should just post up a fresh TR for everything...


Neil on Slice and Dice
Orion

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Dec 1, 2008 - 04:58pm PT
Wow, That turkey oven is somethin else, nice work. Wonder if my friends down in Josh did something similar for their meal. Thanks for postin the great TR, from somebody who did a regular family and friends Thanksgiving it's nice to have some monday photos to make me remember my good times with good friends on america's laziest holiday.

Cheers,
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 1, 2008 - 05:05pm PT
You know I'm, on your side! Cool stuff as always.

Last year, @ IC pagan and Erik cooked a turkey in the sand, it was said that it worked pretty well, but the dogs seemed happiest. Most of us stuck to Sushi, and wasabi, and sake, and tequilla.

So, any liquid Sky action?

We needed your collective wide-pertise for a bit of Gristle in Josh this holiday.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 1, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
Thanks Orion!

Jaybro - I know you're down! Just figure people are missing the updates...

No Liquid Sky for us...though there was talk about it...the brotherman got on Bellyful, but it was before I arrived...I think he has pics of it though...

The rock oven worked really well actually, and the turkey was tasty ...it only took around 3 hours to boot...a bit quicker than the hole method(from what I heard)...

I saw some pics of Scuffy on the T-wide, but I'm not sure I saw the Gristle...guess I better head over there...
EDIT: ok, I see...Interesting shot..anymore?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 1, 2008 - 05:55pm PT
You MT Crew know how to PARTY!
Seems like where Mojede goes, food, GREAT food, goes...or is it the reverse???
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Dec 1, 2008 - 06:00pm PT
Food only goes with me because my two main travelling partners (only one this time) are both chefs at fine dining establishments. I have tons of experience shopping for the food, but prefer that the pros handle the heat.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 1, 2008 - 06:03pm PT
Well then: that explains why you were free to do such a nice job with the photo documentation!!!
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Dec 1, 2008 - 06:27pm PT
'zactly, Roy:-)
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
Pat, Neil, Joel and Dave gearing up at camp...





Word has it that Pat and Trevor did a new route on one of the sub-rim towers in the background(2nd pic)...I'll let Pat tell that story
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 01:39pm PT
Headed upto the Pistol Whipped Wall...pretty quite up there and a very nice day. Felt good to rope up with the brother again...

Neil starts up Jolly Rancher...



Pat on the same...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 01:44pm PT

Getting in a TR after Pat's strong onsight attempt on this unnamed thing...thought he had it...


The gang rounding out the day on Spaghetti Western
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
Next day we ended up at the 2nd Meat Wall...







After some warm ups and a false start, Pat onsighted the Extra-Lean, pretty damn good show. Probably the wildest heelhook I've seen Pat do...


Liz on the Extra-Lean
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:15pm PT
This thread is heating up!
Them cracks look like wicked tasks...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
fading light...









Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
I'm either making popcorn or going climbing...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
Hahah!! Dude, go climbing Jay...I only have time to clean up just a few more today. Keep an eye on this thread though. I'll try to add the rest here in the next day or so...there's alot to wade through though...

Guess I'm gonna heat it up and then let it simmer for a bit...

The cracks were pretty damn wicked Roy...Pat was honed in...glad I had a ropegun...

Next day we headed to the Way Rambo wall...pretty big crowd that day...Went and got on Chestful of Kind...what a sweet climb!






TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
Liz hikes Blue Sun






That's all for today...more to come...

Cheers,

Tom
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
"I only have time to clean up just a few more today" he says...
No kidding, huh, absolutely EVERYTHING comes back from the desert plastered in red dust, even digital memory!!!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 02:50pm PT
That's for sure Roy! I think even the brain even got some sand in there...
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Dec 2, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
Strong work people!

Sorry I missed the party.
We embraced the storm and went skiing in the San Juans instead.



Did you climb any towers Tom?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 2, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
Thanks Eric! Wish you made it, but there's always another time...

Plans were made to climb towers, but the weather had other ideas....oh well...I have a feeling I'll return

Some nice looking snow BTW...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 09:47am PT
Blue Sun was getting alot of attention...kind of crowded up there that day...but only around a few routes...


I had to give it a quick burn though...really nice too...



Trevor and Pat taking a break...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:01am PT
Unknown climber on the Monk...



TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:31am PT
Neil gives a good show on his onsight attempt of Slice and Dice...





Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:34am PT
oooh... that last shot is sweet.
The very first one of that guy up thread is pretty cool too.

It's important to take lots of pictures on these excursions,
So those of us sitting on our asses here in keyboard land can live vicariously!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:37am PT



Thanks Roy!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:38am PT
Yes that one!
hahaha.
I was just loading that pic into my photo bucket, so I could paste it into my comment.
You Tom, are faster on the draw than I am!!!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:40am PT
It's actually a different one...couple of nice ones above that lip...I'm not that fast;)



....which one is 'better' you reckon?
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:46am PT
First one, IMO. It looks harder and steeper, plus I like the vibrant orange streak at the top.


Dam, I need to get a baby-sitter who's on my schedule--I missed the fun and sun by only a few days.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:52am PT
I like the streak too...there's always another time Hutch...Plus you got all the way out to Ibex! How was that BTW? You see other folks? Pretty desolate?


After a long day and some drinks, it's easy to start seeing double...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 10:54am PT
...and as the night grows longer, apparitions start to appear...

TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 11:05am PT
...and more fun...









Look Mom! I can spell my name!!!1

TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 11:15am PT

On Wednesday morning, the fact that something maybe rolling in seemed more plausible than it did on the previous bluebird days....
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 11:21am PT
Determined to maximize our climbing...we head upto the Res wall...

Captain...or Skully

climber
  Dec 3, 2008 - 11:29am PT
Man, you dudes get around.....Super shtuff.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 11:30am PT
Dave doesn't waste time and goes after Frosted Flakes...hard to tell from the pics, but it's a wide one...old 3.5 camalots to the new 5 camalot IIRC...





After an exploratory romp, Dave redpoints next go!! Strong work dude!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 11:41am PT
We try Captain/Skully...fun to meet up with those guys for the last stint of the tour...


After I took a lap on the warm-up handcrack, and we got the line fixed...the sun poked out, and we figured it was time to get the 'Spielberg angle' on the Cyborg...

so up I head...



time to eat...Cyborg pics and the wrap up after lunch...then Pat just needs to post his side of the story...

TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
It starts out wide...




Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 3, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
Frosted Flakes, yow! that'll work ya! Did it with Scarpelli.


Were you guys licking Toads that night?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 01:50pm PT
...and heads into some pods...



mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Dec 3, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
I think that they were ticking loads, Jay, hehe.
Captain...or Skully

climber
  Dec 3, 2008 - 01:54pm PT
Well, I'm digging it all. Love the pics & the reports....I REALLY like the shots from above in your last bit there. Elimination of the buttshot(my main problem in pics....ah well).
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:00pm PT
Were you guys licking Toads that night?



Word has it they were actually shape-shifters posing as toads...but I'm not sure....

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:01pm PT
Quoth the Raven, "Casteneda."
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
hehe, we had some good Casteneda chats...



...after the pods, it heads into a long section of .5 camalots...

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
Whatever it is, I'm in. Cracks like that just don't grow anywhere but in Wingate.
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
Trucking....





getting up onto the crescent...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:26pm PT
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
^^^heheh, similar highstep eh?







Pat saying he doesn't want to leave this stance...

"it's just so nice!"
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:43pm PT
...and he casts off...

HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
Nomination for best TR EVER!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 02:57pm PT





Wasn't sure if Pat was going to hang on or not...but he punched through and stuck with it! Using his right leg as a scorpion tail here...


Nice send brotherman!



edit: Thanks HG! that's a mighty kind nomination!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 03:04pm PT
Well, our window seemed to rapidly diminish after that, the clouds rolled over the last bit of sun, and the afternoon cooled down considerably...

We built a large fire to stave off the drizzle, and basked in the glory of a great 'season ender'...



Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 3, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
Nice Send, Pat!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
It rained off and on all night...and I awoke to an early morning fire, and the building of shanty...




Kevin and Brady showed up with the turkey just in time for turkey day. And to prove Kevin does know his way around the 'kitchen' here's a shot of Kevin helping with the cooking!



Word has it I was supposed to take pictures AFTER the thing was cooked, not before...hard to do when it was instantly swarmed:)
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
a little oil in the pan...and into the oven!








A 'creek clay' marble was also fired...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 3, 2008 - 03:32pm PT
After about 3 hours, the 13 pound turkey was ready to eat...and that brings us back to around post #70 or so...



feasting occurred, followed by many libations...and fun continued into the evening...

The following day, after a hefty cleanup session, we all went on our ways...a majority towards Bozeman, Kevin and Brady towards Ibex, Trevor headed down to southern AZ to seek warmer stone, Joel and Neil are eventually going to end up down in Patagonia...and Dave is hitch hiking as we speak...heading towards the northwest.

Seemed a good time was had by all, and hopefully I'll find myself sharing a fire with these lads again soon...

Thanks for taking a look into this extended madness...hopefully I can motivate Pat to post some stories soon as well...keep an eye out...

Cheers,

Tom
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Dec 3, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
thanks for postin' up tom!

a super fun time for sure!!!!

i've got some shots too, but need to resize em'....

move for move on the cyborg!! haha, psyched on the send for sure!!! tx jbro!

i've now got a bedroom for the first time in 7 months....kinda psyched....


cheers,

patrick

(most posts in a kingsbury tr?!?)


edit: i really like the night shots!
HighGravity

Trad climber
Southern California
  Dec 3, 2008 - 06:49pm PT
Bump for climbing!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 3, 2008 - 08:20pm PT
Bump for the Kingsbury's keeping that young blood alive here on the crusty old dad forum!
Woot! Woot! Woot!

Captain...or Skully

climber
  Dec 3, 2008 - 08:34pm PT
Livin' the dream.
Definitely best 'mini' photo TR ever, Kingsburys.
You guys Rock!
LizR

Trad climber
Montana
  Dec 4, 2008 - 08:09am PT
tom-thanks for all the sweet postings...i had a great time. have hutch's grey bin at my house do you think you could give it back to him on one of your next bouldering missions?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 4, 2008 - 08:31am PT
Thanks y'all!

Liz, I'll hopefully be heading over on sat or sun, so it shouldn't be a problem...

Cheers!

another night shot...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 4, 2008 - 02:42pm PT


Earlier I posted this pic and referred to a new tower the guys did in the background...




Well Trevor posted the info and some nice pics on MP...

http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/indian_creek/106313442
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Dec 4, 2008 - 02:44pm PT
That is a pretty cool picture!

Now Trevor: what's wrong with you boy?
We don't do Mountain Project out here in the sticks...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Dec 4, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
Hmm? can you run a walker to the base?
mojede

Trad climber
Butte, America
  Dec 9, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
Photo add bump:


Ibex main bouldering area with Way Cows, Red Monster, and Corn Kernal boulders standing out from the road going up. The large buttress is home to a 5.12 bolted 4-pitch route.


Corn Kernal Boulder with its twin 5.13 hand cracks looming.


Brady crankin' on a little pebble amongst a larger backdrop.
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
  Dec 9, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
Human Reservoir Tip?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Dec 9, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
Bwahahaha!


Nice additions Hutch, that place looks 'out there'....
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Feb 9, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
Second that nomination for all-time best TR.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 03:04pm PT


aaron on bellyfull

thanks for all the nice comments...a good trip for sure!!!!

cheers,

patrick
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 9, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
O damn....Pat is uploading and posting his own photos?!


We need more photos then bro...slow steady steam of em, maybe some insights on a few routes as well (squat, bellyful, ziji, cyborg etc)
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:00pm PT


tbow gettin' after it!!!!
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:06pm PT


evening events....whiskey and fire jumping
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
Now that's a fart!


What did you think of the belly?
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:22pm PT
the belly is a sweet climb for sure!!!!

have u looked at it in person?

it starts out easy enough since you can stem the face out to the right, but after the fists get to big the invert seems super hard!!!

i could get into the position and move, but it seemed like minimum progress....

i want to try it again.....but it is damn hard!

easy enough to C1 if ya get totally shut down....
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:31pm PT

the start....




where the business begins....



edit: holy sh#t batman those photos are huge!!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
It's the last hard(est) o-dub I got up (redpoint) in Oct(?) '04. It's got a lot of stuff packed into a short distance, sizes changing fast enough that there is a bad size for any body type/size, I eschewed stemming to the right, it worked for Petro & maybe that is the way to go, but it seemed off route, to me. Three days later, in the Owens River Gorge, (the day I first met Matt) I was still, heavily, in recovery, and fell on the last clip of Chocolate to Morphine.

Life is a grand adventure!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
They look good to me!

Keep em coming!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
Beautiful shots, how telling of the day, is the belayer in down jacket and helmet?

Note to anyone who hasn't been there, it's solid .11 bad hands, very near the start! And then it gets crazier! All the rests are active; some muscles get a rest, at the cost of decreases in interstitial glycogen in other muscles (they get more pumped). A very, very cool route! I wish Bob S posted here (or anywhere, get it together you hyper-articulate luddite) so he could share, in his own words, the story he shared with Platinum Rob and I, around a super bowl campfire, on the origin of the name. Also, he's more other Shi, than you can imagine!!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
Yes nice to see this thread come up again!
Photos look great... roll 'em out.
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:44pm PT


tbow setting up big for a rest day


haha
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
If you're gonna climb hard, you gotta rest hard!
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:52pm PT


joel on the caterpillar, cat wall





hahaa!! climb hard, drink hard, rest lots?!?


thats awesome you sent the belly j!!! that thing seems so far above me right now....those OW roofs sure are fun stuff!!!

cheers,

patrick
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 04:59pm PT




one of the newer OW roofs in IC, although i didn't try it....

new #6s through the roof i belive.....
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 05:08pm PT


e-roc on 'skid row', fin wall
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 05:12pm PT


trevor on 'cool cat'
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 9, 2009 - 05:24pm PT


summit of the 'hitchhiker's thumb'
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 9, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
Nice! Party on the thumb!

Cool to see these shots, glad you figured this all out...
ct

climber
CO
  Feb 10, 2009 - 07:06am PT
Awesome photos, keep 'em coming! So good for the motivation...
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Feb 10, 2009 - 08:07am PT
So there is the Belly full

and the Chest full



are there others?
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 10, 2009 - 09:27am PT


joi on 'ernie used to box'

photo by joel k
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 10, 2009 - 09:29am PT


leighan on 'rock lobster'

photo by neil k
P.Kingsbury

Trad climber
the jeep
  Feb 18, 2009 - 11:38am PT


johns jump (5.?), needles
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Feb 25, 2009 - 04:02am PT
Bump for the hump
Pate

Trad climber
  Mar 11, 2009 - 11:03am PT
huge bump. sick TR. and nominee for top 10 ever.......
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Mar 11, 2009 - 11:26am PT
Thanks Pate! That's mighty kind...

hopefully we'll be seeing a third installment starting the end of this month. The brotherman is linking up with a swede friend and they are on the OW mission....I heard rumors of trench warfare, a new wide roof a pitch up at the creek, and a Zion objective...am of full of shi+? I guess y'all will just have to keep an eye peeled!

Cheers!
Pate

Trad climber
  Mar 25, 2009 - 10:44am PT
TK- anything new coming our way yet?
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
Author's Reply  Mar 25, 2009 - 10:58am PT
Nothing *quite* yet...but the brother is planning on picking up his Swedish partner from the SLC airport on the 31st...so the adventure should start gearing up around then.

There was talk of heading down to try trench warfare before that...but I'm unable to break away for it...hopefully Pat still gets a chance to try it though....
Barcus

Social climber
San Luis Obispo, Ca.
  Mar 25, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
Thanks so much for sharing the trecks!
Definatley #1 on my TR list!
Thanks again
Barcus
Pate

Trad climber
  Mar 28, 2009 - 06:20pm PT
bump-o-pot-amous
EC Does It

Social climber
Sonoma/San Diego
  Apr 16, 2009 - 09:12pm PT
Bump because this is a bad ass thread and I'm going to IC next weekend.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go