Trip Report
Valley of the Gods FA
Monday February 18, 2013 1:17pm
Jeremy e-mailed a few weeks ago saying he'd scoped out another new line in the Valley of the Gods. Hell yeah! This guy is motivated. Its a 5 hour drive for him from Albuquirky. Its only an hour for me . . .

He said he thought the thing would go free! "The pro just might be a little thin, like beaks and stuff . . . "

So, Jeremy starts free climbing, gets up about 8 feet, slams in a beak, and says, "I'm going to have to resort to aid If I'm going to get any pro in." He then proceeds to put together a string of 18 to 20 beaks in a row to start off the pitch. With the help of a couple of bolts in blank sections (i.e. in between nearly imperceptible beak placements)he eventually connected it into this awesome looking crack system that drew us to the route from the ground.

After about 6 hours, Jeremy had put in some 30+ pieces, 3/4 of which were beaks. A2+, he wants to call it. Whatever, nevermind the ground fall potential with the string of body-weight gear right off the deck . . .

The first 4 pieces!
The first 4 pieces!
Credit: Reeotch

Credit: Reeotch

It was the most impressive aid climbing performance I've ever witnessed. When we walked up to the base, I was like, "So, where do you want to start this thing?" Looking up at the first 70 feet or so of crackless choss.

Look closely . . .
Look closely . . .
Credit: Reeotch

Credit: Reeotch

Jeremy showed no signs of doubt

Credit: Reeotch

I did not sleep well, knowing I was on for the next day. I was really questioning my motivations. My pitch featured this crazy looking roof system with all this very loose looking rock just kinda hanging there. In the end, I think my only motivation was just to save face by not chickening out (although I could have thought up all sorts of reasons to bail on the lead, any of which would have been valid).

As it turned out my pitch came together nicely. It was "all there", as they say. Very awkward and convoluted, with wide crack climbing at the start and finish, and the crazy roof system in the middle. I had to employ some strategic back-cleaning to keep the rope running smoothly. Even placed a few beaks (Jeremey is like, "Yeah Baby!")

Start of 2nd pitch, let the thrashing begin . . .
Start of 2nd pitch, let the thrashing begin . . .
Credit: Reeotch

Nearing the lip . . .
Nearing the lip . . .
Credit: Reeotch

Let me take this opportunity to say that anyone who thinks aid climbing is not an athletic endeavor hasn't done any serious aid climbing. I mean I was busting out these wild martial arts/yoga maneuvers out of my top steps, trying to reach past these pods and shove a cam into the crumbling crack above. Very strenuous and technical movement. Plus, that special kind of endurance you need to keep it together on lead for 5, 6, 7+ hours at a time.

Credit: Reeotch

That was one of the best aid pitches I've ever done, spectacular!

Credit: Reeotch

"Tighten It Up" 5.8 A2+ - A3+ (Depending on who you ask . . . )
"Tighten It Up" 5.8 A2+ - A3+ (Depending on who you ask . . . )
Credit: Reeotch

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Reeotch
About the Author
Reeotch is a trad climber from 4 Corners Area.

Comments
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mhay

climber
Bishop, CA
  Feb 18, 2013 - 01:45pm PT
Compelled by the choss. Good on you.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 18, 2013 - 04:12pm PT
Good Job Y'all,
Did you drink any old E??
skywalker

climber
  Feb 18, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
F$ck yeah! Sweeeeet!!!!!

Thanks S.....
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Feb 18, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
Good stuff, gnar gnar!

What's the story behind the name?
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Feb 18, 2013 - 06:20pm PT
Oh boy, you guys livin' Yee Haw!

Susan
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Feb 18, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
woohoo! gnarly
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Feb 18, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
That's amazing-great job!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Feb 18, 2013 - 06:24pm PT
WOO HOO!!!
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
  Feb 19, 2013 - 07:35pm PT
wow we wow,any body can nail granite,,fair seas there matey,,
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Feb 19, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
Bet Jeremy's Mom coulda sent that rig with cam hooks after 3 OE's...at least that's what she said last night...

Good to see the tower monkeys at it!

WQOoOOHHHOoOOOOOOO!&6%

this just in

climber
north fork
  Feb 19, 2013 - 07:41pm PT
Sh#t yeah, way to fight the doubts and push for the top.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Feb 19, 2013 - 07:44pm PT
Yo!

Say "hey" to J.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
Author's Reply  Feb 19, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
Bump, I added some pics of the 2nd pitch . . .
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 19, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
sand
mud
dirt
filth
chimney



which of these does not belong?
S.Leeper

Social climber
somewhere that doesnt have anything over 90'
  Feb 19, 2013 - 10:44pm PT
bad ass!
andy@climbingmoab

Big Wall climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Feb 19, 2013 - 10:50pm PT
The route looks really cool, but calling what is pretty obviously A4 A2+ is just such a weird affectation.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  Feb 19, 2013 - 11:06pm PT
Looks awesome...you guys are loco......I have a route for you........I even bought a bunch of thin pins just for this climb...but never did it (due to shrinkage of the ball-bag...)...you guys w/all your damn beaks will have a field day. Look up the route Fiend w/out a face on one of the los Gigantos.......near Round Rock....there is a hairline crack right of that route that goes on for miles....it's got your name written all over it......sac up and send......
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Feb 20, 2013 - 05:28am PT
Great stuff!
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Feb 20, 2013 - 07:05am PT
Big time props!! Amazing area and great first ascent. Congrats.

Jeremy, you are a desert sandstone overlord. Keep sending!
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Feb 20, 2013 - 09:46am PT
Bump from motel in Parachute.

So what's the beast to be called? More minnow than sea monster.....:-)

But hey, the climbing required sounds very cool! beaks just f©®king RULE!

Here, a (truly mediocre, sorry) view from yesterday morning:

Credit: crunch




MisterE

climber
Bishop, CA
  Feb 20, 2013 - 09:55am PT
Nice work, Rich and Jeremy! Glad to see you guys getting after it! That first pitch looks skeeeetchy...
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Feb 20, 2013 - 11:36pm PT
Looks awesome...you guys are loco......I have a route for you........I even bought a bunch of thin pins just for this climb...but never did it (due to shrinkage of the ball-bag...)...you guys w/all your damn beaks will have a field day. Look up the route Fiend w/out a face on one of the los Gigantos.......near Round Rock....there is a hairline crack right of that route that goes on for miles....it's got your name written all over it......sac up and send......

Can see it now. Bring a bunch of the new Moses pitons.

Get stopped by the Navajo Police. "What are you boys doin'?"

"Oh, umm, practicing with our Tomahawks....."
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 21, 2013 - 09:39pm PT
Good job dudes!
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
  Feb 22, 2013 - 08:11pm PT
Love that place. So many adventures to be had. The ultimate land of choss!
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 16, 2013 - 08:26pm PT
BBST!
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