Trip Report
Valhalla Redux: The Spectacular Saber Ridge
Friday April 10, 2015 12:42pm
In February of 2015, my good friend and very first climbing partner, Mike, and I backpacked into Valhalla for 3 days. It was an incredible trip in to an area I've only read and dreamed about. We didn't bother with tents or even zipping up our sleeping bags at night as it never dropped below the 40's at night. I was in love and couldn't stop thinking about going back.

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This past weekend, my good friend, Jeanluke, and I headed back in for Saber Ridge. We humped in 40lb packs across 17 miles of trail in 9 hours, equipped for 3 days.

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For gear, we brought a light rack of BD .3 to 3 cams, 3 of the smallest Tech Friends, a set of nuts, a mess of slings and biners, and a 35m rope for simul'ing. We pitched out the cruxes and simul'd the rest. We made the summit in a casual 7 hours.

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WE could see the Central Valley from the ridge.

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The ridge that just keeps on giving!
The ridge that just keeps on giving!
Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Deadman Canyon April 4, 2015
Deadman Canyon April 4, 2015
Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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Credit: PAUL SOUZA
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The next day we hiked out with the incoming storm on our heels.

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  Trip Report Views: 2,720
PAUL SOUZA
About the Author
PAUL SOUZA is a trad climber, big waller, and Big Brother from the Central Valley, CA.

Comments
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Apr 10, 2015 - 12:53pm PT
STOKED THANKS What a great RIDGE TRAVERSE TO DO!!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:03pm PT
Yeah buddy. One of my favorite places in the universe. I first saw Valhalla in a break in the clouds WayBITD. We had just traversed from 395 in leather and skinny's and we vowed to return with gear and skill. And we did. Our packs were >120lbs and we were geared for a month stay. That's a TR if I can ever get the slides scanned.
Woop woop.


Aside: Early May 1989(?)and the snow was continuous from below Shepherds Pass to the Kern.
Hoots

climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:25pm PT
Saber this time of year? Awesome!

Flip-Flop: Consider that your sole mission, getting those slides from that tour up!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:35pm PT
This is great! Would love to climb that thing this summer maybe?! Thanks for posting!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:39pm PT
Paul, way to go....

Really nice different view of the Fin and the Castle Rocks... in one of the up thread photos.

Flip.... without a photo TR. It didn't happen. :>)
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:47pm PT
Oh, you guys. It kills me to not be able to post up those pics. Particularly the nude selfies on a solo of N.Pal. Someday bros.
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:50pm PT
Who's that guy with no beard!?

You forgot to make the claim that you did on facebook that got people talking: "This ridge blows the Matthes Crest away!"
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 10, 2015 - 01:52pm PT
Hey Daniel,

I was trying to keep this TR spray-free. ;)
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Apr 10, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
Nice nice nice!
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
  Apr 10, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
Awesome! I'll have to try that one!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 10, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
Spray free TR? Poor form. Allow me to re-format your Trip Report for maximum sprayage and you'll double your comments by mid afternoon. Here's how its done.......


But if you want to take the humble route and drift off the front page that's fine by me. Just call me when your TR fades into oblivion ya noob.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Apr 10, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
Sweet TR....looks like you had a super time. It is scary, however, how little snow there is.
Woody the Beaver

Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
  Apr 11, 2015 - 09:24am PT
Stunning place. Thanks!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Apr 11, 2015 - 09:28am PT
stoke!
Psilocyborg

climber
  Apr 11, 2015 - 11:44am PT
duuude....yeah.....one of my favorite places in the sierra
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Author's Reply  Apr 11, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
Scott,

I posted this TR just to stoke the flames of sendage and hope more people will find the uselessness of arguing on the interwebz.

Perhaps we can make this place a better, more hospitable place. We all play a role in this place in some capacity. ;)
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Apr 11, 2015 - 07:38pm PT
Beautiful!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Apr 11, 2015 - 09:48pm PT
Nice try Paul. More spray still would have been better. Proud send!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 12, 2015 - 06:35am PT
Just awesome Paul,
Thank you!!!
Looks like one to remember !!!!
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Apr 12, 2015 - 07:27am PT
Cool pictures, TFPU
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