Haha! Today I found a partner in weirdness for the greater good of local aid climbing practice. Eddy was game for practicing setting up a removeable Tyrolean at Indian Rock, so we drove over to the park after work to see what opportunities we could find for practice.
The first line had a nice view, but seemed too short for proper practice, and darkness forced us to stop before Eddy could attempt to set up the system himself.
To warm up, Eddy and I did a good aid session at the gym, working on good habits & efficient movements in the aiders and jugging low angle terrain (not in photo). We did 10 laps each aiding & 10 laps each jugging, which was a good workout!
Next we headed to Indian Rock for more Tyrolean practice on a longer line that I saw we could set up.
Eddy couldn't get out Sunday, so I went over to San Francisco to climb with Vitaliy and see what we could find for aid practice. Sadly Beaver Street Wall was already full when we arrived, so we passed time crack climbing at PG Presidio first.
I'm including this segway mostly because I want to hear what other Tacos think these cracks are rated.
Now that our fingers and ankles were trashed from all of the crack climbing, we headed to the beach for some R&R - and to try out cam hooks on an expansion joint in the sea wall.
I think Vitaliy said the locals consider the finger crack 5.10c. The cam hooks took well to the joints and we could fly right up, effortless. We did several laps, making it a goal to get placements down to minimum. I could keep it to 3 placements to get over the wall (4 if you count the somewhat unnecessary but fun one to do in the fascia to finish).
This was just too much fun to run up the crack, toss the gear down for the next in line, and run around the side back to the base :-D
It was especially fun topping out, as you'd suddenly pop up on the top of the wall, surprising people that were looking out at the sea and had no idea someone was climbing below! On one topout I ran into my friend Owen, who just happened to be in the area. He helped out with some of the photography as we entertained him.
Beaver Street Wall
As evening approached, we returned to find the Beaver Street Wall still busy, so we practiced jugging on the side until everyone went home. Then it was time to have fun!
I had no idea what the clean aid rating for The Crack was, or if it could be aided cleanly, so I did this on TR to be safe, but next time I'll have to come back to do it properly.
It started getting dark and I had unfortunately left my headlamp on the ground. Though I could have brought it up on the tag line, this was Urban aid climbing! The street light gave me just enough visibility to finish the climb in the dark.
Now Vitaliy had never jugged on traverses before, and was new to lowering out & cleaning, so the traversing nature of this route made it a harder first clean for him than expected. He took to it well and made short work jugging & cleaning the pitch.
The pink tri-cam was helpful in a flaring pocket & the Ball Nutz worked like a charm in a thin crack section that was too thin for even my #000 3CU. The #1 Nutz did pop a little but with a little work it held like a charm.
Though the bad weather forecast kept us in the city, we still had a full & productive weekend burning some energy and preparing for our next outing!