Trip Report
University Peak FA Continuing Education
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Monday November 21, 2011 9:33am
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johnkelley
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About the Author
johnkelley is a climber from Anchorage Alaska. |
Comments
David Wilson
climber
CA
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Nov 21, 2011 - 10:32am PT
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very impressive effort ! i think you better chime in as an expert on Donini's " so you want to be an alpine climber " thread. that sounds like a very committing adventure. good job
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Nov 21, 2011 - 10:53am PT
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^^^^^++++
I was thinking the same thing.
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Dos XX
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Nov 21, 2011 - 10:57am PT
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This is the real deal. Fantastic.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 21, 2011 - 11:56am PT
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Paul's a character, eh? He flew us into Bona in '91.
Wow, wild climb. That peak looks uber gnarly (dude).
More photo's!
Thanks.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Nov 21, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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That peak looks a lot like K2.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Breckenridge, CO
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Nov 21, 2011 - 01:54pm PT
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Wow, classic looking peak and great adventure.
Where was your line?
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Nov 21, 2011 - 01:59pm PT
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nice job. thanks for the trip report
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Nov 21, 2011 - 02:44pm PT
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fuk yeah!!!
8500 ft. face.
36 hour push
to the
first bivi.
i am
humbled by
your
success.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 21, 2011 - 02:26pm PT
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VERY NICE! Please post more alpine routes if you can!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 21, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
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Nice report.
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Nov 21, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
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After four long days of very minimal water and no food Paul showed up and flew us out.
Now that DOES sound inconvenient. YIKES.
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Zander
climber
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Nov 21, 2011 - 03:58pm PT
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Very nice! Thanks for posting.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Nov 21, 2011 - 04:00pm PT
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Here's a few more of the endless ice, calf burning hell and one of Beaver Basin.
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rbob
climber
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Nov 21, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
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University peak is the real deal!
Largely unknown, but one of the most serious peaks in Alaska.
How many times have people stood on the top of that thing? I know that it has been skied. Maybe one of the craziest ski descents of this era!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Nov 21, 2011 - 04:09pm PT
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It's got two other routes on it. The North Ridge and the Third Semester on the East face.
The ski descent line, the south face, wasn't from the summit. I think they stopped near the top of the south face and skied from there. It's about a 7,000 foot ski run.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 21, 2011 - 04:15pm PT
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Great TR. Now if only the Sierra Nevada's University Peak had a route like that!
Thanks so much for such a fine post.
John
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 21, 2011 - 04:56pm PT
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Way to go on the understatement!
Great looking climbing on glistening water ice. 8500 feet of that would burn your calves, even with a night of "sleep" on that little carved-out ledge.
Where in AK is that? I just spent four days in the Valley climbing with two strong Alaskan women guides, and after all their stories I'd like to hear more.
Yeah, and I too was thinking of University Peak in the Sierra. Definitely some FA possibilities there too...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Nov 21, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
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Doug, its in the U.S. side of the St. Elias range, just south of Mount Bona. East of McCarthy.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 21, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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Would you be able to draw your line on the photo of the face you climbed please? Just for interest. Looks like a cool route to try some day.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Nov 21, 2011 - 06:16pm PT
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
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Nov 21, 2011 - 06:24pm PT
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Totally Awesome, Quite an incredible FA, Way to go and thanks for sharing!!!!
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nov 21, 2011 - 08:25pm PT
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BAM! Now thats a Trip Report. Way to bust out the gnar and keep it all cool hand luke with the casual write-up. A real inspiration.
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NFB
Mountain climber
Wilson, Wyoming
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Nov 25, 2011 - 07:21pm PT
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like...
very much...
thanks for cool photos!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
The Ocean
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Nov 25, 2011 - 09:42pm PT
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One of the better lines done in Alaska period. Bigtime Grats. April gets those longer high pressure systems but still that many days on the face would have me rubbing my lucky weather rabbits foot for sure.
Way way solid new FA.
Dude you are tearing it up. 100+ years of serious alpinism and Alaska has not even begun to be scratched for it's possibilities.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
https://nutagain.org
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Any chance to get some picture links refreshed?
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Moment of synchronicity to see John's post here today. John is a full week overdue in Nepal. He's in the Langtang region. Climbing solo, no InReach. That's all I know. If I hear more will let you know~
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F
climber
away from the ground
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He just got picked up by chopper a couple hours ago. No news other than that right now.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Really great news!
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 5, 2019 - 03:31am PT
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Gotta say I was shocked to have a helicopter land beside my tent this morning while I was making coffee... I’m not really sure who decided I was overdue? My permit is good for another two and a half weeks. Back in KTM now for some reason?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Hey John- Do us all a favor and consider reposting all of your photos from this outing in the OP if you would be so kind.
This is such an inspiring thread! Way to get after it man.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 6, 2019 - 10:38am PT
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Maybe but it’s hard to want to put them up again after a few were stolen and used (illegally btw) to acquire climbing grants from the AAC, Polartec, Mugs Stump Award, and the Mazamas...
In the end Polartec were the only one’s who had the guts to admit any wrong doing on their part. The only ones to offer any apology.
I’ll never support the AAC, the Mugs Stump Awards, or the Mazamas as a result
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Very sorry to hear that John and those involved should be ashamed of themselves. They should have contacted you for permission as that is the most minimal effort that is at all acceptable.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 6, 2019 - 07:04pm PT
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They were told by me NOT to use my photo and agreed but decided to do so anyway.... the AAC and the Mugs Stumps Awards committee didn’t see any wrong doing in this despite the fact it’s against the law...
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Author's Reply
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Feb 6, 2019 - 07:21pm PT
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Here’s one Kevin took of the 1st bivi. It’s the only one I have access to at the moment.
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