Trip Report
Two Seniors And A Stalwart Youth, Slaying The Dragon
Thursday July 14, 2011 11:06am
Credit: survival


First things first. The mighty Lepton showed up for Fathers Day. (Yaaay me!)





He was helping out with a massive landscaping project, wherein I finally got a couple giant rocks I'd been jonesing for.
Credit: survival






Careful placement is crucial, because once it's down, THAT'S WHERE IT LIVES!
Credit: survival






Here's the other one.
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The new puppy watches with a lack of enthusiasm.
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Then we get the call of desperation from Jeremy. "If you want to climb something in the Sandias, you better get up there in the next couple days. They're closing everything because of FIRE DANGER!!"







Lepton had already expressed a great interest in the long NW ridge of The Thumb, so I asked Jeremy if he'd join us, guide us, thrash us, get us off route...you know, the standard stuff. First he was in, then he was out, then in, then out......finally we hooked him.
Here is the ridge from below. The route is on the left skyline.
Credit: survival







Here's another from below. It is easy (5.6), but it's a thousand feet tall and very exposed on both sides in many places.
Credit: survival






Here's Survival nearing the base.
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Jeremy wanted to solo and run around up there, so we gave him the camera so he could get some killer pictures of us on the first couple pitches.......HA!





First pic of the seniors on the route.
Credit: survival






Here's Jeremy, the Stalwart Youth, at the first ledge. We were waiting for the GLACIAL team that beat us to the route, to do the "crux".
Credit: survival
Some of you know that Jeremy is one of my current heroes. He's filled with energy and tons of good vibes. I'd rather climb with guys like J than meet all the famous magazine sport gods in the world.





A little higher on the route. Like I said, easy, but Lepton and I stayed roped for the first 3-4 pitches.
Credit: survival





Lepton coming up the last of the roped climbing we did. The GLACIER team stayed roped up the whole way I think. They were nice guys though and were polite about us passing safely. That's the La Luz trail below in the distance.
Credit: survival






You know I'll be back with some more in a bit!!





  Trip Report Views: 2,226
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

Comments
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NotIt

Trad climber
SF, CA
  Jul 14, 2011 - 11:10am PT
yeah! I want to hear more about climbing in NM, period...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 11:40am PT
You KNOW I had me some Bonsai moments up there!!
This one's for you Guido:
Credit: survival






Jeremy and Lepton Man discuss the way forward. Beautiful eh?
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Lepton explains the intricacies of the female mind. Jeremy looks on with a deep understanding.....
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Another bonsai appreciation attack.
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Credit: survival
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Jul 14, 2011 - 11:43am PT
Very cool Rock!! Looks like you're about to take out that steeple.

Also cool to see pics of you folks, Survival, Jeremy.

Jeremy looks on with a deep understanding.....

And yeah, that's just how I look what I try to understand the workings of the female mind.


TFPU
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Jul 14, 2011 - 11:50am PT
After staring up there in appreciation, I've always been curious about the routes up there. How could I have guessed: all that and bansai love too.

Thanks!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
Jeremy, still wondering WTF Lepton was talking about.
Credit: survival






Lepton Freesoloing. Doing his best Peter Croft imitation.
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Sir Edmund Jeremy. A watchfull eye on the weather as always.
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J, knocking off the next crux.
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Lepton Man, dancing with the razors edge!!
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I AM bonsai man!!
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Photo to the west that Lepton ordered me to take.
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BACK SOON!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 12:49pm PT
How could I have guessed: all that and bansai love too.


Uhhh, because you've climbed nearly everywhere?






Jeremy on the final obstacle.
Credit: survival







Jeremy AND Lepton on the final step.
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The view down into the canyon.
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The boys on the summit. Big thumbs up!!
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Summit blossoms ! !
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Summit bonsai ! !
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By now Jeremy was wagging his tongue about the next crag we are headed to. Someone needs to give that boy a lude.....

More on the next destination in a bit.
MH2

climber
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:01pm PT
Good.
Love the look of that rock.
But it ain't bonsai if it ain't in a pot.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
But it ain't bonsai if it ain't in a pot.



True, but the entire art form came from a deep love and respect for twisted mountain trees, so I can call it that if I want.....HA!!!
Jeremy

climber
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
Those Dudes look WAY HOMO!!!!!!!!!!!

Great shots Bruce!!!!

WOO HOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

WE NEED MORE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MH2

climber
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:12pm PT
I call them bonsai too, even though I know I'm wrong.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
I was buying it until you said this guy Lepton could explain the intracacies of the female mind.

That one set off the bullshlt detector big time.
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:30pm PT
Sheet Yeah! There's a lot of bonsia potential up there.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:42pm PT
Nice! Good to see you "old folks" still getting out and even passing people!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
Thanks! I did that route a few years ago- it's a fun, long outing.
BrianH

Trad climber
santa fe
  Jul 14, 2011 - 01:56pm PT
For sentimental reasons, that is my favorite route in the Sandias. I've done it 3x, gotten pretty seriously off route twice. This was surprising to me, given that's it's a very well defined ridge. A good general rule of 'thumb' coff is if you notice a lot of lichen, you might want to back up a bit and re-assess.

In your photo of the formation, you show the route on the left hand side, but isn't it on the right hand side?

Another feature of the route is that for all the long climbing you get, the descent is pretty trivial. Two short raps and you're there.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 14, 2011 - 02:15pm PT
WhooHoo Bruce! My favorite Sandia climb. The only bad memories I have
of it are of those darn Kenyans passing me as I was 'running' up to it.
"So if I am running what are they doing?" The only conclusion I could
honestly come to was: white boyz can't run either.

BONSAI!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 02:22pm PT
In your photo of the formation, you show the route on the left hand side, but isn't it on the right hand side?


It's the one on the left. The photo is taken from a ways down on La Luz, taken on a different hike. Man, you WERE off route! HA! Just kidding.





Part of the descent.
Credit: survival







Some of the plants up there are friendlier than ohers.
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After we got down to the next crag. What the hell was the name of it Jeremy?

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Check this out. Not a great pic because it's zoomed waaaay in, but this is one of the glacier boys nearing the top.
Credit: survival


Nice! Good to see you "old folks" still getting out and even passing people!

Jim, we're just glad you didn't show up and pass us!!
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jul 14, 2011 - 02:27pm PT
Awesome stuff as usual. I love that New Mexico rock!

+1 for geezer patrol taking charge in fine style. Even though you can probably kill me with your left thumb, I can call you a geezer because you don't know where I live.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Jul 14, 2011 - 02:56pm PT
That looks like a great day. I have wanted to climb in the Sandia's for a while now, so I feel inspired to give it a go sometime in the future... I bought a guidebook a year ago.

Nice TR, thanks!

BONSSSSSAAAAAIIIIIII!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 02:57pm PT
Now that is some funny shitz nutjob!


WARNING ! ! !
Just in case anyone goes up there anytime soon. There are many many loose things on that route, but one in particular:

At the end of the second pitch there is a small overhang. Under the left side of this roof is a refridgerator sized block that moves with the touch of a hand.

I swear to you, in 36 years of climbing, I have never moved anything so large with so light a touch. It is a death chopper block! The trundler in me wanted to cut it loose, but it was a weekend and I couldn't be sure no one was below.

If you are on this route, be super aware.
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jul 14, 2011 - 03:02pm PT
When's the climbing season in the Sandias? Does it get too hot in summer? Too cold or snowbound in winter? Any interesting winter routes? Is there a good guide book?
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jul 14, 2011 - 03:03pm PT
Wahooo!!!4!! Good stuff.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jul 14, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
Good stuff, as usual, boyz!!!

Survival, and pics of the big rocks you dropped in yer yard? After they were placed?
Seamstress

Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
  Jul 14, 2011 - 03:22pm PT
:)
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 14, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
Great adventure! Thanks for sharing! I love your trip reports!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 04:02pm PT
When's the climbing season in the Sandias? Does it get too hot in summer? Too cold or snowbound in winter? Any interesting winter routes? Is there a good guide book?


It's actually good in summer because some of that stuff is around 9,000-10,000 ft. It does get hot, but there are things that face every-whichaway so you can chase the shade. Yes, it gets quite cold in winter. I don't know what to tell you about winter climbing up there since I have stayed lower so far. I don't know which guide book is best either. One of these other guys could tell you better.

Here's the other part of our day. Survival on a 5.8 pitch.
Credit: survival


Jeremy on a tricky 5.7
Credit: survival



Blue, here you go.
Much more work has gone into the surroundings.
Credit: survival


Here's the other, before the WALL went up!
Credit: survival
Jeremy

climber
  Jul 14, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
No more pics?

WTF FARMER BRUCE?!!!

;-)
Zoo

climber
Fremont, CA
  Jul 14, 2011 - 05:36pm PT
Nice report, nice pictures. Brings back some memories of looking over at The Thumb from climbs on either the Muralla Grande or the Torreon. I can't remember which.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 14, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
Haha, Lepton! There can't be two noses like that! Good on you guys!

I'm into that Bonsai in nature thing. I tried to capture the essence of a krumholtz pine that gave off that vibe just the other day in the blackhills.

I've always thought that vedauwoo was a human scale Bonsai garden. You guys should make it there this summer, there is an event there around the 5th of August, but any other time works, too. We could go up to the Colonel's @ Deto, as well. Frank has a baby Grand just waiting for Lepton's Julliard schooled fingers....


Thanks for sharing your adventure!
Jeremy

climber
  Jul 14, 2011 - 06:06pm PT
Lepton BUMP!

He is also available to do yardwork as well!!!"

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 14, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
Thanks survival, I love the sandias, only hiked and trail run there though!
-Ezra
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 14, 2011 - 06:18pm PT
No more pics?

WTF FARMER BRUCE?!!!



I'll get to 'em J ! ! But I'm in the middle of some stuff right now.
Besides, I think I put up more pix from this day than you did from ZM. BWA HA hahahaaa!!!



Credit: survival
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Jul 14, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
Those kind of look like petrified trees that you put in your yard. Most appropriate.

You guys have to pay/bribe Jeremy much? Not to blab, that is?

What kind of rock is it, anyway? Sort of looks like conglomesandrate.

We have lots of dampness at the moment - maybe we should trade.

bonsai = gnarled little tree. banzai = Japanese warrior cry.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jul 14, 2011 - 09:12pm PT
damn, wish I coulda been there.
Looks so fun!
My kind of freakshow.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jul 14, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Stalwart Youth? I've heard him described using other words....


;-)
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jul 15, 2011 - 12:33am PT
capybara? Metrosexual? Bueller?





Lembert Dome? ;-)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 15, 2011 - 11:31am PT
Mark, well...he's more youthful than Lepton & I, and probably more stalwart too, so I didn't figure I was that far off!!

Jefe, would've loved to have you there too. You'd fit right in with that gang of misfit toys....


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Zander

climber
  Jul 15, 2011 - 12:22pm PT
Nice!
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 15, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
WTF Farmer Bruce MORE PICTURES!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 15, 2011 - 01:02pm PT
The elesdee is kicking in again......















this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 15, 2011 - 01:24pm PT
Flashback Mode. What shutter speed is that first one? I don't get out to the desert too much, but thanks for the constant scenery.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 15, 2011 - 05:05pm PT
Flashback Mode. What shutter speed is that first one?

That shutter speed my friend was called aw-to-ma-tic. I'm so lame I have no idea what I'm doing. I just play with it...HA!!

Anders, it's red granite.


Credit: survival





















survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 16, 2011 - 11:54am PT
Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
  Jul 18, 2011 - 05:21pm PT
Hey BB -

This is the first TR of yours that I think might still be in my range. I love nice long ridges! And I haven't seen colors like those in those last few psycho-delic ones since we descended from the Dragontail!!!

PS, planning a run down the Columbia to the sea late August aboard Betty Lou. Wanna come?

Jk
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 18, 2011 - 06:00pm PT
JAY!!!! Alpinista55 post, I'm a fecking hero......

I would go up there with you at the drop of a hat bro.
I'd go damn near anywhere with you at the drop of a hat.

I WILL get to that boat eventually too!! I will probably be in OR in the spring???

Take me out to Beacon and drag me up some 11 cracks. C'mon man, I know you can do it.....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Aug 1, 2014 - 12:26pm PT
Bump for one of the not 8 Werner birthday threads.

Peace to Lepton Man and Jeremy.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Aug 1, 2014 - 12:47pm PT
Credit: survival
Trad is Rad

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
  Aug 1, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
this is in the sandias ,correct?
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Aug 1, 2014 - 03:36pm PT
Correct you are sir!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Aug 1, 2014 - 05:46pm PT
What a beautiful place, I gotta get me out there.


Nice manipulations survival, flashbacks.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Aug 1, 2014 - 11:41pm PT
You can go outside in New Mexico in July without catching on fire?!

Looks like a fun time, and I love the orange and purple and spiral modded pic.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2014 - 01:08am PT
It's cooler than the Central Valley most of the time, especially when you go up high. Some of those formations top out at 10,000.

But yes, it can get "catch on fire" there too!

It was what 105 in Sacramento today and about 80 in ABQ?
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
  Aug 4, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
Somehow I always forget that the Continental Divide runs through NM and I just picture burning wastelands running all the way from Barstow east until everything gets a little wetter and becomes the boiling swamps of east Texas.

Looks beautiful, and now it's another thing for my to-do list. :)
MH2

climber
  Aug 4, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
Happy Birthday, Werner!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Aug 4, 2014 - 10:15pm PT
Gee, come mid-November through March, I wonder what I'll be thinking about?
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