Trip Report
Saturday September 7, 2013 5:10pm
Pronounced Twer-pah-low-toe-ee-yad

or Twenty Roped Pitches At Lovers Leap Oakland To Oakland In A Day

We did not plan this, nor train for this, the concept was hatched in the Lover's Leap parking lot after the 2.5 hour drive from Oakland. Just out for a day full of climbing.

It had been a few years since I had been to the Leap, the place where I did my first several multi-pitch climbs as a noob. With the fire keeping us out of the park, and limited time I was happy to find ourselves at the Leap with not too much smoke, and not too much heat.

We started with Bear's Reach at 10AM. There was absolutely no one on the East Wall, I have never seen it so deserted. As noted before- the sheer amount of fixed gear on that climb is stunning- but as I climbed the route, I realized that a fledgling 5.7 leader would be gripped in many sections.

Toettch eyeing the small amount of smoke
Toettch eyeing the small amount of smoke
Credit: snowhazed

We started Psychedelic Tree at 1130. I had never been on this climb- and I have to say it is all time!! With any amount of alpine sensibility, the looseness is casual and inspires creative climbing around it. I haven't been outside climbing as much as I would like or am used to, but somehow all the mileage has translated to tremendous comfort- particularly at lower elevations. I find myself running it out regularly, mostly because it seems like less effort than hanging around to place the gear. It's a strange world.

Toettch on top
Toettch on top
Credit: snowhazed

overlapping roofs are fun
overlapping roofs are fun
Credit: snowhazed

We start Scimitar at 1PM and cruise through familiar terrain.

Wanting to up the grade a bit we hop on East Corner via Microbrew. I had been on this once before but forgot how thin the corner is- Feels pretty stiff for 10a. For reference, the "spooky" 10b on sunspot is less thin and more slabby. Whatever- its classic balancey climbing. I pulled the 11b roof statically this time around- footwork has improved over the years.

Devious little roof!
Devious little roof!
Credit: snowhazed

We eat at the base, and then start simul climbing Surrealistic Pillar at 445.

Hospital Corner goes down from 530-630.

Credit: snowhazed

An empty Corrugation Corner during sunset caps our day and finalizes the toe destruction.

smoky sunset
smoky sunset
Credit: snowhazed

Thoroughly dismayed to discover that Los Hermanos in Pollock Pines has closed its doors, we settle for Z-Pie in Placerville.

Oakland to Oakland Time- 16.5 hours
Vertical Feet Climbed (according to Supertopo)- 2405'
Notability Rating of this accomplishment- 2 out of 10
Fun Rating- 9 out of 10

Hope everyone is having a great season- Much Love

  Trip Report Views: 1,222
About the Author
snowhazed is a trad climber from Oaksterdam, CA.


  Sep 7, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Nice dude! Lapping out like true kings!

What it's all about, thanks for the TR.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Sep 7, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
Fun is more important than notability but I do think you underated yourself in the latter category. Thanks for the tr!

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Sep 7, 2013 - 08:58pm PT

Glad to see you're getting out and had a good time at the Leap. It was my learning ground as well, so I have a special place in my heart for the Leap. 20 pitches. That's a lot of pitches!

Next time you guys are up, come check out Woodfords, One of These Days and surrounding classics, those at your level, too, ha! they won't disappoint. I'm a local, I could show you around.

Also pleased to read you enjoyed Psych Tree, too. In my book, deserves four stars, at least, if others do.