Trip Report
Tuolumne season opener obscurities
Thursday May 29, 2014 2:49am
Credit: Jay Wood
OK, this is in the valley- 'Looking for Lichen' Gardened out the thin crack. Last climbed in ??
Credit: Jay Wood
Looking up at the face crux- guarded by a coating of green slime and loose flakes. Look for my bail biner on an old but decent bolt.

Credit: Jay Wood
This is random, but I liked the idea.

Credit: Jay Wood
Anyway, on to Tuolumne. After the traditional romp around Stately Pleasure, we located 'Sunny Delight'. This shows the start of this "5.8" climb. Tony took over my attempt, & I eventually followed, relocating many portable holds. I'd say 5.10c 2 bolts.

Credit: Jay Wood
Then the search for 'Gold Standard' 'Pepe Le Peu' '& 'Tom Tom'. Supposedly left and up from Low Profile Dome, we scoured the area almost to Deimos area and were shut down- except for great views, a good work out, and scouting a crack that I had long wondered about high on the slope. It turned out to be poor rock and bottoming no pro for the first 25'.
Credit: Jay Wood
Credit: Jay Wood
Credit: Jay Wood
See any routes there?

Credit: Jay Wood
Not leave empty handed, we made a fine ascent of 'Don't exchange Bodily Fluids' (short and civilized).

Credit: Jay Wood
And grooved on the scene.

Credit: Jay Wood
Still later, I saw a stick

Credit: Jay Wood
And we climbed 'T H Sea' on DAFF
This is old school- not technically hard, but a mental workout for sure.
Don't wait too long, as it's getting harder to find the opportunity to risk sliding 50 footers onto old 1/4" bolts. It traverses too, so the second is not short changed.
Credit: Jay Wood
The upper section features knobs disappearing into potato chips above a ledge, a slung knob for a top anchor, and the thought-provoking walk off.

Credit: Jay Wood
And finally, 'Borderline' just left of 14 Karat on DAFF. I used some of my extensive french technique on this "5.9" crack, and the upper face is the same or harder than 14 Karat- rated 10c.

Credit: Jay Wood
So we got out and messed around. wOOt!

  Trip Report Views: 2,852
Jay Wood
About the Author
Jay Wood is a trad climber from Fairfax, CA.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  May 29, 2014 - 02:56am PT
Way to go with the obscurity stoke! Thank you for posting this up!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  May 29, 2014 - 04:12am PT
excellent!! Tuolumne on ganda's is just the best time. Some great shots too, TFPU!
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 29, 2014 - 08:44am PT
Excellent is right. Way to get on it ASAP! I've got to wait till June..... :(
Stewart Johnson

climber
lake forest
  May 29, 2014 - 08:44am PT
Nice ! I saw you by the golfers
We played through as you were leaving!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 29, 2014 - 10:32am PT
Great tr....obscurities are a way to beat the crowds.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
  May 29, 2014 - 11:14am PT
Heaps of respect. Sounds rowdy.
Dapper Dan

Trad climber
Menlo Park
  May 29, 2014 - 11:17am PT
Love the TR , short and sweet , and let the pics do the talking .
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  May 29, 2014 - 11:27am PT
Right on!

No snow? There was a lot on the trail to Dozier Dome two weeks ago.

Andrzej
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  May 29, 2014 - 12:09pm PT
Awesome! I got out to toulumne 2-3 weeks ago but was chased off by the freezing wind and cold temps. Barely managed to climb the dike route :( Hope temps are better next time I can make it out there. Which were your favorite routes there so far?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 29, 2014 - 12:21pm PT
STICK IT!!!!
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
  May 29, 2014 - 12:58pm PT
Nice work Jay and Tony! Only you guys want to slide 50 ft onto old 1/4 bolts! I'm in TM 2+ weeks this year - hope to see you up there.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  May 29, 2014 - 01:00pm PT
I like it. Nice stick sighting, too.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
  May 29, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
Nice! I talked to Tony on his way back down from exploring above Low Profile and he said the views were great but was disappointed by the lack of climbs. Of course looking up from the road it is pretty obvious that there isn't anything worth hiking up there for.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 29, 2014 - 08:53pm PT
Living the dream !!!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  May 29, 2014 - 09:05pm PT
Rocking TR, mans. I dig it. TFPU!!!2!!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  May 29, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
Nice to see you guys are still at it,
thanks for the stoke!!
bob

climber
  May 29, 2014 - 09:18pm PT
Pretty much ready to go. Thanks you guys!!!!!!! So much fun in the TR-ville these days. Love it.

Bob J.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  May 29, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
Best climbing area ever, IMO. Top 3 anyway. Great stuff up there.

Nice job!!!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 29, 2014 - 10:04pm PT
Thanks for the fix . . . TM is one of the finest places on the planet.
Osprey

climber
  May 29, 2014 - 11:16pm PT
I had a hard time finding this thread. But when I did, I liked it.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 30, 2014 - 12:32am PT
The early bird gets the granite! Good TR.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 3, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
Nice, Jay, very nice. Never heard of that Looking for Lichen - is it over by the Arches apron? Or other?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 3, 2014 - 01:18pm PT
Fun TR, Jay. Le bruce, Looking for Lichen is by Lichen Nightmare on Monday Morning Slab.

John
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jun 3, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
Jay, you've certainly carved yourself a niche that will keep you in rare company. Or raw company after the sliders? You dig on the opposite of what I like in a climb. I want to be plugged in so deep my mommy can't hear me screaming.

Edit: Upon re-reading, that didn't come out the way I wanted. Uhh, best to stop typing now.
Ken Zemach

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
  Jun 11, 2014 - 12:01pm PT
One of my favorite obscurities a few years ago (is it still obscure now???) is Inverted Staircase on fairview. Needs gardening, but frankly a great route.
pinner

Trad climber
Squamish, BC
  Jun 13, 2014 - 02:29am PT
"Still later, I saw a stick"

Ha! love it!

Also, I believe I've come across that same stick in various other locales... wonder who's carrying it around to all these fine places?
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
  Jun 24, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
The climb we thought was Sunny Delight is actually On Golden Blond..............
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
What makes you think so?

In researching this route name, it seems that in one scene, the female lead is wearing zipper pull earrings.
wstmrnclmr

Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
  Jun 25, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
The fourth edition has a topo of the climbs.......Guess I need to bring it along. The "on" part of the name does get one thinking.
QITNL

climber
  Jun 26, 2014 - 01:03am PT
Climbing partner flame-war!
What the hell did we climb?
Bring it on!

Hey guys!
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
Fourth edition.....right,

a likely story.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jun 26, 2014 - 09:35pm PT
Nice TR!

One of my favorite obscurities a few years ago (is it still obscure now???) is Inverted Staircase on fairview.

Tell us more . . . Fairview is the real deal.
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Land of God-less fools
Author's Reply  Jul 10, 2014 - 09:23am PT
Located and climbed the actual 'Sunny Delight'

-Fun short-ish route, old bolts easy approach & walk off. A few pieces for anchors.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go