Tribal Rite A4 5.5

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Tribal Rite photo TR

by Mr.T
Tuesday July 15, 2008 4:58pm
Twelve Days of hard work and pure joy left me at the top of The Capitan. Here are some photos:

Ottowa Doug had soloed the route a couple weeks before - and so gave me some good beta (when it says "no cams on pitch", don't belive it...), an autographed z-ton, and those amazing green pants.


The New Dawn pitches were good, clean, and pretty straight foreward, but I still found myself with some mini-epic on nearly every pitch (forgetting the topo helped). Here's a loose-ass block... a pin scar suckered me into thinking it was solid. Just placing the stopper moved the whole block about half an inch.... Yikes!


The hauling wasn't "too" bad, except the pitch onto Lay Lady, which worked me soooo good. I spent half a day on the ledge just reading and staying out of the sun.


The pitches above Lay Lady mus be great free climbing, but had me puckering, racing the fading light without a headlamp, walking tipped out cams and pulling all kinds of shenanigans to get gear.


My only human contact was on El Cap Tower, when Clay and Corbin came racing by on the nose. Geat to see these fun-lovin bros!!!



I did a lot of laying around, just thinking and reading. This was the first big route where I felt completely comfortable being there. I didn't catch the summit fever, and enjoyed immensely simply patiently slowly suffering my way up the wall.


Some images from the Nose part - looking out from Texas Flake


An old bolt next to the Boot. I wonder if this was placed by Harding? It's right next to the crack in the boot.


Lots of wildlife and flowerage. The frogs come out of the cracks at dusk below Lay Lady, hopping across the face. A milipeed way up in the middle of nowhere - how do they get there? And perigrines, dive bombing like crazy, making the base jumpers look crude and oafish.


So what were the Tribal Rite pitches like?

Clean golden granite!


Open expanses!


Good corners!


An "easy" "crux" pitch


Early Light


Good ledges


Better views


Wierd pro

Good pro


And if that's not enough to get your lazy sport-dawgin arse up there, Tribal Rite even dangles a beautiful carrot in front o your nose!!!


The two unusual things that happened were some intense road construction or invasive plant removal or something at night - LOUD noise and crazy bright lights in the midde of the night actually kept me awake - I took to cutting little squares out of my sleeping pad and duct taping them into my ears to get some peace and quiet!


There was also a huge rockfall around gulf stream. I think I'll pass on that one....


Thanks to Tom and Doug and Gene and all the monkeys for the support and encouragement (and bright green pants)!!!!!

Is it really over????????


No, you fool! Once you finish that whiskey you've got two monster loads to hike down.....

Thank you sir, may I have another!?!?!?

 Zak Tourville

  Trip Report Views: 2,169
Mr.T
About the Author
Mr.T is a big wall climber from topanga.

Comments
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Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
  Jul 15, 2008 - 05:12pm PT
Good job!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
  Jul 15, 2008 - 05:16pm PT
FANTASTIC!!!
Blinny

Trad climber
I'mNotBlanchard!
  Jul 15, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
YAY!

Thanks for postin' up!

eKatTheFullyUnBlinny
Jonny D

Social climber
Fanta Se, NM
  Jul 15, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
Bitchin!!!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
  Jul 15, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
Wigball!! Looks beautiful

Peace

karl
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 15, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
swanky styling
coz

Gym climber
Belmont
  Jul 15, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
great job! Looks like fun, maybe some free climbing up there?
Ottawa Doug

Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
  Jul 15, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
Congrats Wigball!!!!!! Great TR on TR. I'm glad to see the pants continue to live on. Superb pics you took really show the route well. You climbed during some big heat. Good job hanging in there. Wild pic of the rockfall at the base.

Cheers,

Doug
elcap-pics

Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
  Jul 15, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
Really sweet Bro... glad it went so well for you... I felt bad about leaving while you were in the middle of the route but I had to go.... nice pics... what did you think about the difficulty of the route? Recommend it?
Congats Tom
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jul 15, 2008 - 06:43pm PT
Wow, that is a bad-ass TR of a wall, dude. Very cool. Almost...almost makes me want to do my first wall.

Nice job!!!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
  Jul 15, 2008 - 07:07pm PT
Great TR!

Lotsa spooky old heads on that one, eh? I pulled one, and heard later that someone else also zipper-whipped on similar "fixed" gear.

Did the leader clean the Carrot pitch on rappel, or did the second come up, fighting to get gear out of the tightening expando?

And, how'd you like the haul to the right end of the ledge below Texas Flake? The bag comes up that narrowing squeeze and gets stuck at the top. Those bolts should have been placed three feet further to the right. They're probably rusty enough for someone to pull them, fill the holes and redrill them properly.

By comparison, how about the last haul, the final pitch of Wall of the Early Morning light? That is probably one of the best top-outs on the Cap, with the belay just left of a diving board ledge, so the bag rides up a smooth wall all the way to the bolts. That station demonstrates how conscientious and skilled Harding was.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
  Jul 15, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
killer!
Ezra

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
  Jul 15, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
bump for the real deal!

Good Job!
-e
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 07:17pm PT
Love the Good ledges pic. You look happier than a pig in sh#t.

Cheers.

Prod.
WBraun

climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 07:21pm PT
Mr T

That was a great picture story. We did the second ascent and I don't remember sh'it.

Thanks ....
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  Jul 15, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
Really great TR - and most excellent photos. Really enjoyed it! Thanks!!
Clayman

Trad climber
CA, now Flagstaff
  Jul 15, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
ooouuuuugh!! wigball!
Double D

climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 09:42pm PT
NICE!
pc

climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 09:57pm PT
Excellent!
Captain...or Skully

climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
Hey WigBall...Killer Ledge is a cool spot on the Captain, huh?Nice shots, man. And good job, too. Even with freaky green pants.
Standing Strong

Trad climber
snowshoe thompson history trail
  Jul 15, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
" Lots of wildlife and flowerage. The frogs come out of the cracks at dusk below Lay Lady, hopping across the face. A milipeed way up in the middle of nowhere - how do they get there? And perigrines, dive bombing like crazy, making the base jumpers look crude and oafish. "

oooo cool. thank you! thanks for bringing us up there with you :)
Nanook

climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
Nice work Wiggee!

hey, please post this baby on bigwalls.net on the trip report forum so we can enjoy it all thee time.
salad

Big Wall climber
  Jul 15, 2008 - 11:35pm PT
Beautiful Zak! Infectious and artistic as expected! What an accomplishment and such a kick ass thing to take with you through life!!!
Riotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
  Jul 16, 2008 - 06:32am PT
The quintessential solo wall experience. Wow!

Thanks for the inspiration, I have yet to complete a solo wall. I think I'll remember your words about just enjoying yourself up there next time.

Beautiful route, too!
TKingsbury

Trad climber
MT
  Jul 16, 2008 - 07:18am PT
Really nice, thank you for posting!
Jeremy

climber
  Jul 16, 2008 - 07:25am PT
PIMP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Makes me want to get my lazy ass out there!!!

Thanks!

J
FeelioBabar

Trad climber
One drink ahead of my past.
  Jul 16, 2008 - 07:36am PT
Proud Work!
Zander

climber
  Jul 16, 2008 - 07:40am PT
So cool!
Thanks.
TwistedCrank

climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
  Jul 16, 2008 - 07:41am PT
You got bank on that one!
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
  Jul 16, 2008 - 08:11am PT
Good Job Mr T!
w/love from Stoney Point
coldrainsnow

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
  Jul 16, 2008 - 09:38am PT
Whew!! Beautiful pics and a proud send!!! We were thinking of you up there in all the heat. Thanks again for all the goodies you met us with after our push - sorry we couldn't reciprocate!

Hopefully we'll see you up there this summer. Great job!
cowpoke

climber
  Jul 16, 2008 - 09:43am PT
outstanding! thanks for sharing the experience!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Jul 16, 2008 - 10:09am PT
That was sick.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  Jul 16, 2008 - 10:20am PT
Best!
snowey

Trad climber
San Diego
  Jul 16, 2008 - 11:37am PT
That was probably the best solo El Cap TR I have ever read. Proud send buddy!!
Whats next on the hit list?
Gene

climber
  Jul 16, 2008 - 11:48am PT
Way to go!!! Great TR.

GM
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 16, 2008 - 11:49am PT
Concur with the above - a great send and a really fabulous trip report with interesting and creative pictures, really hard to do when you're soloing. Some rockfall, eh? The first two or three pitches of Gulf Stream are now sitting on the talus - we watched in amazement from BUBS. You'd have been dead if you were walking underneath at the time.

How many nights on the wall, mate? Glad to hear you "get" big wall camping!

Cheers,
Pete
Lambone

Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
  Jul 16, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
Jeeze wern't Kate and Eric on Gulf Stream like a month ago...scary!

Nic photo TR and send!
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
  Jul 16, 2008 - 01:29pm PT
Dude, I thought you were a free-climbing at Squamish this summer. I was getting ready to text you and tell you to stay outta dem aiders. Guess I'm too late. Seeing your report makes me feel really bad about not getting up the big stone in June
:-), but I am glad to have gotten up something in the Valley.

You really must come to CO this winter to get the ice groove goin' for the future sends in the big mountains.

Good job on Tribal Rite. . . Brad
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Jul 16, 2008 - 01:46pm PT
Thanks for sharing. What awesome accomplishment.

Freaky about the rockfall though. Of several trips up the Captain, I've never seen anything like that.
BigNick

Trad climber
Los Angeles
  Jul 16, 2008 - 02:34pm PT
Dude, you totally bootasized my hat!
WTF!
At least my orange visor made it somewhere worthy this month.
Sweet!
But really, what the hell….return it …no questions asked.
Or I’ll call the booty-police
Whoop!
yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
  Jul 16, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
bump

That route looks sick.
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Jul 16, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
Most excellent. Well done!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Jul 16, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
Way to go there, man. Thanks for bringing us along.

I have to admire the style...savoring the suffering.
Gene Pool

Trad climber
A trailer park in Santa Cruz
  Jul 17, 2008 - 05:31pm PT
Yee Haw Zak. Scary rock fall!!! Thanks for the killer veggie burritos in the meadow. Next time I have you with a king cobra or two, I want to know what an "easy" "crux" is for you?! Good luck and be safe on el medio dome. I've got 4 leeper z's with your name on them.
Mr.T

Big Wall climber
topanga
Author's Reply  Jul 18, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
Thanks everyone for the psych!!!!!! Good stuff up there, and yes, it is contagious! "Salad" is coming up for a solo of the Prow and I'll talk him through the logistics via radio, let's hear it for Salad!!!!!!

I hiked my first load up to Zenith today... ouch! it's pretty far but not scary like evyone says. The base of Half Dome is like a cross between a huge Roman Cathedral and standing in front of the counter at Baskin Robbins....... Woooop!

Here's a pic of Kate and Pete - it was great to be able to whooop it up with you two, but staying out of radio contact for the duration was nice.



The tunes I've got loaded up for the next journey are "Peaches" and "Miss Kitten"...... Anyone down?

Wiggy
coldrainsnow

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
  Jul 18, 2008 - 03:35pm PT
Wow wiggie - go big or go home!!! Looks like you're up to more fun - be safe and have a blast. Maybe we'll see you in the meadows when yer done!!! GOOD LUCK!!!
Standing Strong

Trad climber
snowshoe thompson history trail
  Jul 18, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
you know what?


bump.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 18, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
Cool shot, thanks. Kate's doing her last lead, just above the C1 Beauty on Eagle's Way, above the Devil's Prow.

How many nights were you on TR? Is there water up at the base of Half Dome now?
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Jul 18, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
hey there.... wow, mr T... wonderful trip pics.... sadly, i hvae to come back later to view it all... as i can't stay on line too long tonight and my computer downloads slow.... wonderful wonderful share though...

thanks so very very much... i love seeing stuff on ol' el cap!
holly hansen

Trad climber
I.E., CA.
  Jul 19, 2008 - 12:42pm PT
Awesome ascent Mr. T!!! Love the photos. I'm so glad you got centered in the midst of that beautiful chaos! What's next? BTW thanks for all the wall tricks you've taught me!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 19, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
amazingly cool!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 19, 2008 - 01:59pm PT
Great TR! Thanks for posting up.

That chopped bolt on Boot Flake may have been the infamous Robbins chicken bolt! Royal thought that the Boot was a bit sketchy and drilled there even though the third ascent party chopped it and went on by. Proof positive that we all have our cloudy moments.

No shots of the rattiest bolt ladder on the Captain up high?!?

The Central Scrutinizer winds in and out of Tribal Rite so I have done some of the pitches.
Mike.

climber
  Jul 19, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
Exemplary TR, Zak. Not too much spew, great pix.

Nice job on the solo. You nailed the crux*.



*Relaxing
salad

Big Wall climber
  Sep 30, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
woot!
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 25, 2009 - 06:56am PT
This TR rocks!
salad

Big Wall climber
  Feb 25, 2009 - 09:02am PT
jefe ya beat me to it..
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 25, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
The political floodgates have opened again on the frontpage...

B U M P
T Moses

Social climber
Paso Robles
  Feb 25, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
Bump for Hump Day TRing!
hoipolloi

climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
  Feb 26, 2009 - 04:43pm PT
to the top
WigBall's Dad

Social climber
Llano,CA
  Jul 8, 2009 - 07:43am PT
Nice job Zak! Great pictures. Tom and Jean got to see you with binocs a few days ago from the bridge. Holly, (from the bridge) filled them in on the sport. I am not going camping with Robert, too much stuff around here to do. See you in Aug. if not sooner.

POPS
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
  Dec 12, 2009 - 10:55am PT
GREAT trip report!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Dec 12, 2009 - 11:17am PT
Great TR and hats off to having such a good time on a route. PS....those pants are DOPE
MisterE

climber
  Nov 7, 2010 - 04:14pm PT
great pics & proud send bump!
freerider

climber
  Nov 12, 2010 - 12:19pm PT
fantastic TR!
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
  Nov 12, 2010 - 07:51pm PT
Thanks!
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
  Nov 12, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
Thanks!
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