Traveler Buttress 5.9

 
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Lover's Leap, Main Wall


Lake Tahoe, California, USA


Trip Report
Traveler Buttress TR (pics)
Monday May 17, 2010 11:02pm
5-15-10

The campground opened the day we arrived, so we had the place to ourselves the first day. The weather was cloudy but warm.

Credit: enjoimx

First climb was Traveler Buttress, 5.9. I had been wanting to do this route since I first saw it 6 years ago while climbing Corrugation Corner, and it was everything I thought it would be and MORE! The climb is amazing, sustained, clean, steep, and in a beautiful mountain setting. Some beta is listed, so if you dont want beta, don't read the TR.

Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx

There was a fair amount of snow at the base, and the descent had snow for the first half. We had to kick steps into the snow to approach the climb, and be very careful at the top, kicking steps in the snow to bypass a deep gully down and left that you would not want to slip into. I estimate the snow to be a non-issue by middle of next week, around the 25th or so.

Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx

There was a nasty fourth class wet ledge to get to the first pitch, but I think you can bypass this by going up higher and then cut back left. There was too much snow for us to try going higher, so we scrambled up the ledge to the base of the first pitch.

Credit: enjoimx


Dave took the lead for the first pitch, and after climbing through the flared 5.8 crack at the top, I was glad he did. I feel that the flared crack at the top of the first pitch is the crux of the climb, it felt much more insecure than the offwidth, and a fall from that section would suck. Nice lead Dave.

Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx

I got the second pitch, the offwidth. I walked a number 4 up the back of the crack and it was a strenuous grovel, but its short and the hand jams turn very nice after only about 5 feet of groveling. The rest of the pitch is beautiful easy hands.

Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx

Dave takes over again on pitch 3, and turns the horrendously exposed arete. He goes straight up past some dikes on 5.8 runout terrain, then leads very nearly to the top on some easy dikes. Very nice lead, and great exposure on that pitch. The runout after the corner is about 15 feet, and there is a blue alien possibility halfway up that.

Credit: enjoimx
Dave "Triple T" McClane Topping out
Dave "Triple T" McClane Topping out
Credit: enjoimx
Me at the top
Me at the top
Credit: enjoimx


It hailed on us for about 10 minutes at the top, but we had helmets on. The descent:

Credit: enjoimx

There were a lot of people climbing at the Leap on Sunday. At the second belay for Bear's Reach, we counted about 8 people. Their dog was running amoc at the bottom, growling and barking at everyone who tried to pass by. Just had to rant about that for a second, sorry.

East Wall
East Wall
Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx
East Wall
East Wall
Credit: enjoimx
Credit: enjoimx

Great climbing though and fun time camping with Dave, Jack, and Andy.

Rob


  Trip Report Views: 1,996
enjoimx
About the Author
enjoimx is a trad climber from San Luis Obispo, CA

Comments
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BooYah

Social climber
Ely, Nv
  May 17, 2010 - 11:17pm PT
Proud.
Pate

Trad climber
  May 17, 2010 - 11:24pm PT
Noyce! Lots of snow sticking around in the shadows.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  May 17, 2010 - 11:39pm PT
Cool, nice to climb with snow at the leap eh?

Mucci
rhyang

climber
SJC
  May 17, 2010 - 11:46pm PT
Good job !
Zander

climber
  May 18, 2010 - 12:22am PT
Nice TR. good pics, thanks.
I would really like to do Traveler again.
Z
just_one

Mountain climber
CA
  May 18, 2010 - 02:49am PT
nice report! sounds like a good trip. i need to do travelers again this year i think. the first pitch is definitely the crux!

we were there sunday too. awesome weather and hardly any people, compared to other times i've been there anyway.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  May 18, 2010 - 11:50am PT
awesome TR man, thanks!
scooby

Trad climber
portland
  May 18, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
Good show love TR!
LongAgo

Trad climber
  May 19, 2010 - 01:51am PT
Tip for off-width: as with so much cimbing, think feet. In this case, make a "T" with your feet to fill the larger than one foot gap and pump up with your legs off the T platform for a few moves until hands get good and crack narrows.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Oct 17, 2011 - 01:13am PT
The Leap
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Oct 17, 2011 - 01:15am PT
Yay!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Apr 25, 2014 - 06:28pm PT
Bump for a move of wide and a great route.
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Lover's Leap, Main Wall - Traveler Buttress 5.9 - Lake Tahoe, California, USA. Click to Enlarge
One of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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