Trip Report
Toms Thumb 10/19/2012, My first lead after a 30 year climbing hiatus . Many pics.
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Saturday October 20, 2012 3:31pm
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Well being relatively new here and just in the past month started climbing again
after a 30 year hiatus, I thought I would post my first trip report and share it with those of you that have encouraged me to start climbing again and the rest of the Taco community.
This may set a ST record for the shortest climb given a trip report but it was
monumental for me and my family so here goes.
Backstory:
35 years ago while attending Lassen C.C. in Susanville, Ca., Joe Fitschen pointed me in the direction of a granite crag on a ridge to the south of Thompson Peak. Joe had not climbed there or even been there but told me he had seen it from the Janesville Grade Road and that I might want to check the place out for climbing possibilities. A couple buddies that wanted to start climbing and I went and checked the place out. We found a gem of a crag, like
a mini Lovers leap with dike systems and good granite. Better yet, it looked
virgin and previously un-climbed. My buddies bought rock shoes and one purchased another rope to supplement my rope and gear. Over the period of 2 years 77/78 I/we put up many routes, Some I could lead with my trad rack (5.6-5.8's) and others we top roped (5.9-5.10's) because I didn't have a bolt kit or the time to develope them. We called the place Cannabis Crags back in the day, Ho man it was the 70's right, today it's known as Toms Thumb. I/we left the area when college there was done in the summer of 78. My active climbing years ran between 72 and 82 so I hadn't climbed in 30 years,
yesterday the hiatus came to an end.
Some old pics of the place from BITD
So yesterday I returned to the place with my Wife, Daughter and her significant other Mitch who had expressed an interest in learning to climb and recently bought shoes, harness and belay device.
After making the 2.5 hour drive from Redding, Mitch and I took a walk around the
place as I shared stories and routes from BITD and decided to do one of the easier lines a 5.6 that I felt I could still lead and be a good one for Mitch's
first climb. The place has seen alot of development since I was there 35 years ago with many routes now bolted and chained belay/rap stations. I will let the many photos (thanks to my wonderful Wife and Daughter) and captions tell the rest of the story.
Toms Thumb, Thumbelina 5.6 10/19/2012
Hope you enjoyed the show,
Tad
T Hocking
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About the Author T Hocking is a trad climber from Redding, Ca. |
Comments
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 20, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
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Inspiring TR, no need to regret the last 30 yrs u didn't climb. Just be glad that you made a great decision & are getting out climbing now, now is what matters! Thanks!
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eKat
Mountain climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
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Oct 20, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
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Completely, totally and entirely BITCHEN!
:-)
YAY!
TFPU!
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Oct 20, 2012 - 03:42pm PT
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Nice!
DMT
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10b4me
Ice climber
Soon 2B Arizona
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Oct 20, 2012 - 03:44pm PT
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good job!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 20, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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Sweet!
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perswig
climber
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Oct 20, 2012 - 04:13pm PT
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Nice, esp the family victory shot.
Welcome back to the fold.
Dale
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 20, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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cool beans
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Oct 20, 2012 - 04:41pm PT
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AWESOME!!!!! I love FAs that nobody knows about. I think that is what always happens. Hiatus, You laughed in its face!
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Oct 20, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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This was excellent! So much fun to see the fast forward!
Susan
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 20, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
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Very very cool
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Jeff Gorris
climber
Not from, Portlandia
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Oct 20, 2012 - 05:08pm PT
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Excellent!
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KlimbIn
climber
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Oct 20, 2012 - 08:19pm PT
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Very nice. Thank you.
Don't stop now.
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philo
Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
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Oct 20, 2012 - 09:11pm PT
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That was so dang cool. TFPU.
Kudos and congrats on your return.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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Oct 20, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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This is what "It" is made of, man.
Some folk look for "it".
I can dig it. Slung knobgoodness especially....TFPU!@
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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Oct 20, 2012 - 11:34pm PT
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An amazing acomplishment ... that you get along with your daughter's boyfriend.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Bighorns
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Oct 21, 2012 - 12:08am PT
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Way to get out there and get some of that goodness!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 21, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Oh yeah, back on the horse. Glad you found your way back and you reconnected with it!
I graduated HS in '74, I can relate to this.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 21, 2012 - 08:36am PT
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Thanks for the fun report and photos and welcome back.
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matlinb
Trad climber
Albuquerque
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Oct 21, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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Congrats. I also stopped climbing for many years, maybe 20 or so, and about sh#t my pants when I started back again. A few years later and I'm back to a respectable level on multi-pitch. Keep the stoke going.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Oct 21, 2012 - 08:59am PT
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TFPU
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SofCookay
climber
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Oct 21, 2012 - 11:13am PT
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Wonderful - thank you for sharing!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 21, 2012 - 11:45am PT
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Oh yeah, back in the game!!
Congratulations and thanks for sharing!
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Oct 21, 2012 - 11:55am PT
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Nice job on the return, not a day to late...:)
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 21, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
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Nice return! Just think, if you hadn't quit you would be ripped like Donini. I'm not quitting, till I die.
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Jeremy
climber
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Oct 21, 2012 - 04:56pm PT
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Dude...that is so cool! Thank-you for getting me pumped and making me smile!
Sincerely,
Jeremy Aslaksen
ABQ, NM
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Oct 21, 2012 - 06:49pm PT
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Bump for climbing content!
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adventurous one
Trad climber
Truckee Ca.
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Oct 21, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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Thanks for the trip report and a great story about who the original climbers at "Toms Thumb" aka "Cannibas Crag" were. Glad that the fa info is finally coming to light before the new regional guidebook is printed. (Where have you been these past 30 years? lol)Still very few climbers and unexplored rock for the next generation in Northeastern California.
Awesome to be able to introduce a new generation of your family to climbing at the same time that you are rediscovering your own previous passion for climbing. Wonderful to see that you are jumping out on "the sharp end" with that old school trad rack of hexes and, first generation? rigid cams on your first day back!!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Oct 21, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
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Aaaaaaaand that's what it's all about!
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Andrew Barnes
Ice climber
Albany, NY
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Oct 21, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
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Wow, this is great, very inspiring. Thanks for this great trip report.
I've always wondered about routes that were put up a long time ago - what is the author of the route upto these days? Is he climbing? Has he come back to repeat his route? This answers it.
I guess the addition of anchors and selected pieces of hardware is almost inevitable in some highly travelled areas or highly classic lines. If your route is really good and becomes popular/classic, that's your reward - someone is going to try to dumb it down for the masses!!
This is a trip report that just makes me so happy.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Oct 22, 2012 - 08:22am PT
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30 years is a long time! Congrats on getting back at it - you got some time to make up...
Erik
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Oct 22, 2012 - 09:19am PT
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Awesome man! Thanks for taking us along!
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Oct 22, 2012 - 09:24am PT
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FECKIN STELLAR JOB MAN! Toms thumb now with its ORIGINAL NAME Cannibis crag!
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 10:31am PT
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Bump..
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 22, 2012 - 11:25am PT
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Awesome comeback and nice to see some northeast CA love. tried to get to the thumb this spring, but snow shut us down. patiently waiting for the guide for the region. :)
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Ron Anderson
Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
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Oct 22, 2012 - 12:56pm PT
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Bump for mudda-feckin SPIRIT OF THE CLIMBER!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 22, 2012 - 01:06pm PT
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Actually a very enjoyable TR. Thank you for posting. Hope you and Mitch will share more pitches together.
PS: after getting a harness, belay device, and some instruction, your partner NEEDS a ST account!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 22, 2012 - 04:06pm PT
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Tad.... Way to go...
Just like riding a bike.
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Zander
climber
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Oct 22, 2012 - 04:11pm PT
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Oh yeah! Getting it done. Thanks for the TR.
Zander
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pbernard02
Trad climber
Chester, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
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Tad! Stoked to see you back out there! Wish I could have been up there with you for the historic moment! Maybe next season...
Peace,
Paul
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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Oct 22, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Brilliant :-)
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Ragz
climber
Tartarus, black hole of the internet
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Oct 22, 2012 - 10:38pm PT
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F*#king awesome. Makes me feel better about missing the last couple years. (and this is my first post here since 2009)
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 23, 2012 - 07:22am PT
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You are a spittin' image of my father. Good on ya for getting out there and having that experience, and thanks for sharing :)
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:31am PT
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THAT is a great TR, and a very cool moment to bring us all into! Welcome back to climbing!
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john bald
climber
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Oct 23, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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Glad you are back.....feels good doesn't it.
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Cheldric
Sport climber
Colorado Springs
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Oct 23, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
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Way to get back into the game! We need more of us 70's climbers out here on the rock! :-) (Yes - I still have my Forrest harness somewhere and that classic Edelrid helmet with the leather straps....) Rock on!
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Oct 23, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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Hey Hocking did you place any cams?????
:-)
DMT
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Oct 23, 2012 - 04:24pm PT
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Way to get after it and teach someone too!
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Enthusiast
Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 04:28pm PT
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TFPU!
Looks like a great start to your second climbing career!
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Oct 23, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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Wow, Thanks for all the positive and encouraging replies to my return to climbing and Toms Thumb. Those crags are very special to me and it was great to be climbing again. I very much appreciate the support from this wonderful community!!! Back in the game, not done yet, once a climber-always a climber.
You guys and gals rock,
Tad
"Hey Hocking did you place any cams?????"
:-)
DMT
Nope, all passive pro!
(2 slung knobs, 2 stoppers, 1 hex + that bolt that appeared in the last 35 years)
Have never placed one before, I did pick up a set of rigid friends from DEE EE for a great deal,had em with me but didn't need em.
Gonna have to learn how to use them new fangled contraptions.LOL
Tad
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Chugach
Trad climber
Vermont
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Oct 23, 2012 - 06:34pm PT
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F*#kin-A. Nice work my man.
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Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
And every fool knows, a dog needs a home, and...
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:07pm PT
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Lol yeah I noticed them in the pic that's what I asked, but could also see you probably didn't need em for that route. Awesome job man.
DMT
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bajaandy
climber
Escondido, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:18pm PT
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Feels good to be back, eh? The rocks, they never change...
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EmEl
Trad climber
Montana
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Oct 24, 2012 - 09:38am PT
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Beautiful Keep goping.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Oct 28, 2012 - 06:30pm PT
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Nice Tad and Mitch, way to go!
Hey, I think I saw some cam placements on that route!
Remember to pull the trigger when placing those babies. Unlike a certain famous old schooler who placed them like nuts his first time out with friends.
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Author's Reply
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Oct 29, 2012 - 06:34am PT
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dee ee,
Thanks for the deal on the cams, gotta learn how to use them now.
pbernard,
Look forward to meeting/climbing with you next spring.
Adventurous One and pbernard,
Looking forward to the new guidebook you guys have been working hard
on, glad I could help fill in some historical gaps and contribute to the cause.
Thanks again everyone,
Tad
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Maysho
climber
Soda Springs, CA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 06:45am PT
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Great looking crag Tad! And great meeting you the other day, and thanks again for the loan of the classic slings and carabiners. We will have to check out Tom's Thumb..
Peter
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Oct 29, 2012 - 09:28am PT
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Looks like the perfect place to get back into it. Thanks for sharing.
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jstn
Trad climber
monrovia, ca
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Oct 29, 2012 - 10:38am PT
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Right on, man!! Keep it up !
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:37pm PT
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What an attractive climb! Thanks much.
John
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Oct 29, 2012 - 12:39pm PT
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Mr. Hocking;
Come to Vegas.
I'll climb with you!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Oct 29, 2012 - 09:44pm PT
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Nice work sir!! Thanks for the stoke!!!!
Very cool historical content!!
Before long you will wonder why you never used cams before!!!
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jdcarpenter
Boulder climber
La Canada, CA
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Oct 30, 2012 - 12:51pm PT
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Great Trip Report. Life gets in the way, but the climbing bug remains. We gotta climb for as long as we're able.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Old man tells young man
Young man follows always
Young man old man soon
Good talking
T hocking
He's slinging the knobs again. In fact,
much pulling on knobs
leads to spouses and jobs
stop pulling yer knobs
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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Great TR, glad that you still got the heart & will (and obviously still have the legs) to get it done. Very inspiring!!
edit: "still have the legs" - that is in reference to "Open Trail" where this trail boss, who is about to go into a town along the trail to haul one of his cowboys out of jail, tells the young cowhand staying behind to hold on to the aging sheep/cattle dog until they are gone because he doesn't want it following them and says, "He still has the heart, but he doesn't have the legs." lol
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moosedrool
climber
Stair climber, lost, far away from Poland
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Dec 12, 2012 - 09:34am PT
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Great report Tad! I hope you keep climbing and write many more TRs.
When I was young I climbed trees, bridges, and a little in the mountains, but I never owned any gear. I had 3 or 4 non-locking biners, home-made harness, and sneakers with a rubber sole that I glued to it.
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