Epinephrine 5.9

 
  • Currently 5.0/5
Search
Go

Black Velvet Canyon


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
Thrift Shoppin' on Epinephrine (photo intensive)

by WML
Tuesday June 4, 2013 5:32pm
Aaron has been one of my best friends over the past half decade and then some - the guy responsible for me getting into hiking and mountaineering at any significant level, which in turn got me into rock climbing. He and I shared a house during undergrad and part of grad school for me before he moved to Oregon to pursue his career. His fiance and my girlfriend are cousins, so the ties here run deep.

Pretty much immediately after I committed to the career move to relocate from Reno to Las Vegas this March, I got in touch with Aaron. When he and I worked together at our university bookstore in undergrad and were complete neophytes to climbing (I still am), we saw pictures of varnished chimneys and alligator skin looking plated faces that went for thousands of feet just fifteen minutes from where I went to high school. For this reason, and the fact that he and I have shared some incredible adventures over the years, I started working on him to fly down here and get on the route with me before the summer heat cranked to 11.

Shortly thereafter, he and his fiance booked their flights - best of both worlds, the cousins (our SO's) get to catch up, we get to climb something we have been eyeing since we started rock climbing, and great times were to be had.

Fast forward to Saturday and the Portlandia folk have arrived in Las Vegas to the first weekend of true summer heat here in town. Aaron and his fiance both make note of the heat, I try to ignore the heat in hopes of denying the undeniable - it's damn hot out. "It's a dry heat, guys...100 here is like 90 back in Reno, it's not so bad." I say with hopes that if I deny the heat is that bad, maybe it really won't be that bad. We all head out to pizza for dinner (Pizza Lounge @ Tivoli Village is delicious!), Aaron and I sort gear after and promptly crash since we know we have a long day ahead of us the next day.


Up at sunrise, eat breakfast, pound copious amounts of caffeine, participate in nervous banter, load the truck, don't forget the cooler with the beer in it, race to the trailhead along 159 and 160 from my house, 30 mins from leaving my driveway we are at the end of the dirt road looking at Black Velvet Canyon.

Jerseys, headbands, and music blaring out of the locker room, it was gametime.

Sometimes a TR requires a soundtrack, Track 1:



Time to let the pictures do the talking:

BV WALL
I'm gonna pop some tags, only got 20 dollaz in my pocket...
I'm gonna pop some tags, only got 20 dollaz in my pocket...
Credit: WML


View from atop P1 - in the sun and sizzlin
The sneaker heads'll be like 'AH HE GOT THE VELCROS"
The sneaker heads'll be like 'AH HE GOT THE VELCROS"
Credit: WML


Aaron following P1
I'm at the Goodwill, you can find me in the bins
I'm at the Goodwill, you can find me in the bins
Credit: WML


And so the chimneys begin....


KEEP POPPIN TAGS!
KEEP POPPIN TAGS!
Credit: WML

Aaron enjoying the classique chimneying
Aaron enjoying the classique chimneying
Credit: WML

Ice on the fringe is so damn frosty
Ice on the fringe is so damn frosty
Credit: WML

The people like 'DAMN, THAT'S A COLD ASS HONKEY'
The people like 'DAMN, THAT'S A COLD ASS HONKEY'
Credit: WML

Limited addition lets do some simple addition... <br/>
 <br/>
WML leading one ...
Limited addition lets do some simple addition...

WML leading one of the chimnayz
Credit: WML

I'M GONNA POP SOME TAGS, ONLY GOT $20 IN MY POCKET
I'M GONNA POP SOME TAGS, ONLY GOT $20 IN MY POCKET
Credit: WML

More chimney cruising
More chimney cruising
Credit: WML

Credit: WML

So we put our hands up, like the ceiling can't hold us....
So we put our hands up, like the ceiling can't hold us....
Credit: WML

Track 2:



We were fortunate to time things perfectly and hit the upper pitches in the shade...crucial when temps exceeded 105 at the airport and 97 at the visitor's center

I shed my skin and put my bones into everything I record to it
I shed my skin and put my bones into everything I record to it
Credit: WML

I got my city behind me, I fall they got me
I got my city behind me, I fall they got me
Credit: WML

Looking for a better way to get up out of bed instead of getting on th...
Looking for a better way to get up out of bed instead of getting on the internet and checking out who hit me up
Credit: WML

Can we go back, this is the moment....
Can we go back, this is the moment....
Credit: WML

We came here to live life like nobody was watching
We came here to live life like nobody was watching
Credit: WML

The validation comes from giving it back to the people
The validation comes from giving it back to the people
Credit: WML

And I'm eating at the beat like you gave a little speed to a great whi...
And I'm eating at the beat like you gave a little speed to a great white shark on shark week
Credit: WML

Summit self-shot by Aaron, the jolly ranchers we brought were lifesave...
Summit self-shot by Aaron, the jolly ranchers we brought were lifesavers (see what I did there?)
Credit: WML

WML looking like death warmed over at the top-out. Dehydrated.
WML looking like death warmed over at the top-out. Dehydrated.
Credit: WML

Let the night come, before the fight's won <br/>
Some might run against th...
Let the night come, before the fight's won
Some might run against the test
But those that triumph, embrace the fight cause
Their fears then prove that courage exists

Credit: WML


Epilogue:

What an incredible route. The route, the company, the climbing, the position, the whole thing was awesome. Aaron hadn't climbed anything of significant length, or close to it, in a year and did one hell of a job cruising along on this route, leading a few pitches and hefting the pack while following the chimneys. Without a doubt one of the finest routes I have climbed in my short climbing career,


We brought 2 gallons of water with us, as temperatures in Las Vegas reached 105.4 and 97 degrees at the RR Visitor's Center. This amount of water was adequate but certainly not comfortable. The chimney climbing is airy and spectacular - just when you get tired of chimneying, you get GLORIOUS looking (and climbing) face climbing above, which climbs just as good as it looks, if not better. Just as soon as your feet/toes are screaming at you, the easy ramp systems that lead to the unroping tree begin and lead you to a descent that we did in the dark with relative ease.

If you have decent beta the descent isn't hard to 'onsight' in the dark, but the way down is pock-marked with spots where folks had bivied both on the ramps from the top of the mid-5th climbing, the summit, and below. The descent was harder on my dehydrated body than the approach and climb combined as was evidenced by my sprint to the truck once it was within view to sip ice water which kept some PBR's on ice out of the cooler...

Thank you for reading this TR and I hope everyone enjoyed it and I hope I didn't ramble too much.

  Trip Report Views: 4,585
WML
About the Author
WML is a purveyor of premium malt liquor beverages, margaritas and diet mountain dew (although not together, nor necessarily in that order) who lives to redline the fun meter

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
  Jun 4, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
I see what you did there...
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jun 4, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
NIIICE!!!
socialclimber

Trad climber
CA
  Jun 4, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
Thumbs up on the climbing and the soundtrack... I might have to do something similar for my next one...

Charles
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jun 4, 2013 - 07:01pm PT
Nice rope management
hamik

Mountain climber
Pasadena, CA
  Jun 4, 2013 - 08:06pm PT
Haha, I thought the same thing. Good job stacking those ropes! I still haven't done this route... next season :-)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 4, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
Strong work!!!!
Thank you!!!!!!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Jun 4, 2013 - 08:48pm PT
Sweet photos.....love that climb!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2013 - 08:01am PT
Thanks guys! That climb is awesome!
RP3

Big Wall climber
Sonora
  Jun 5, 2013 - 08:09am PT
Great TR for a great climb...good on ya!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jun 5, 2013 - 09:28am PT
Without reading carefully I saw the first pics and wondered 'Why are they bringing such a big pack into a chimney route.' Then I read about the temps and the two gallons. Nice job not letting the heat squash your plans!

I'd rather climb cold than climb hot, probably a consensus on that one among climbers...
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2013 - 10:08am PT
Thanks, Roger!

Bruce, the temperatures while climbing were actually perfect - couldn't have felt any better. The problem with desert climbing is that you lose so much water and it evaporates before you even realize it. We barely had any water left for the descent, but by using Crystal Geyser gallon jugs we kept crunching them down as we'd down more water. I didn't even realize it was hot out until we were on the descent trail, probably about even with Whiskey Peak's summit, and sweat starts pouring through my bandana. The temperature back at the car in the late evening was ~83
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 5, 2013 - 10:14am PT
Bump!
msiddens

Trad climber
  Jun 5, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Good on you and seems like a not terrible way to get on it and get 'er done.
Prod

Trad climber
  Jun 5, 2013 - 01:29pm PT
Sweet!

Prod.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 5, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
descent was harder on my dehydrated body than the approach and climb combined

That is very true for many descents I have done. It is so much harder when the light is 'off.'

Hope Aaron gets back to climbing more often, he is strong like a bull!
zardoz

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
  Jun 5, 2013 - 02:20pm PT
Nice! We are thinking of doing the route in Fall.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
That is very true for many descents I have done. It is so much harder when the light is 'off.'

Hope Aaron gets back to climbing more often, he is strong like a bull!

So true on both counts! Dude, he sure as hell is...pretty sure he had it way more rough than I did lugging the water in the backpack up the chimneys than I did leading 'em. Burl dawg for sure! Hopefully he finds himself on the rock more often...after doing a route like Epinephrine it's pretty hard not to have the stoke-meter at 11...


zardoz, go do it! It's awesome! Lived up to the hype
tooth

Trad climber
B.C.
  Jun 5, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
I think you may have started something good here....!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 5, 2013 - 10:43pm PT
Radical TR & proud send, always had my eye on that one.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jun 5, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
hehe, i like your style. the song ended when i finished reading the epilogue, good timing.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
  Jun 6, 2013 - 09:30am PT
BBST!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 6, 2013 - 10:56am PT
bump for chimneys and a good report
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jun 6, 2013 - 12:00pm PT
Thank you, everyone! Just wanted to flame the stoke and also help people realize that the season ain't over for big routes at Red Rock...especially if you have an intelligent eye for shade.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jun 6, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
Chuimbley's rule! And are shady!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Nov 13, 2013 - 11:08am PT
BUMP for reminiscing over one hell of a fun climb with great company
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Nov 13, 2013 - 01:20pm PT
Climb on.
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Nov 14, 2013 - 08:21am PT
F*#king fantastic photos...
TFPU!
Burch3y

Mountain climber
I offer nothing to the discussion
  Nov 14, 2013 - 08:30am PT
Make em say UNNNNNHHHHHHH!!!!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Nov 14, 2013 - 06:53pm PT
Thanks, guys!

@burchey - I will make that song part of the soundtrack to one of my next TR's....
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Nov 14, 2013 - 02:58pm PT
Hey thanks for bringing this one back, beautiful! I love that place, and Vegas is a nice diversion occasionally.

Aloha,
Will
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
  Nov 14, 2013 - 04:29pm PT
Great report, well done. Thanks. That Black Velvet is a beauty
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Jan 15, 2014 - 12:50pm PT
Thanks! Black Velvet is awesome, excited for when the temps nose up to Velvet Weather!
Joshua Johnson.

Boulder climber
Boulder
  Feb 27, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
couple/three bumpz nukka!
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Feb 27, 2014 - 12:41pm PT
...so f'ing awesome...

Great TR!
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Feb 28, 2014 - 08:52am PT
Thanks! Love that route and my memories of the walk-off have faded enough that I'm half considering another lap up it. kind of.
brett

climber
oregon
  Feb 28, 2014 - 10:21am PT
If you bring two gallons, you will use them.
WML

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Author's Reply  Feb 28, 2014 - 11:29am PT
^^^ Especially while Africa Hot out...
portent

Social climber
your mom's house
  Apr 17, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
Bump
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Black Velvet Canyon - Epinephrine 5.9 - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
Epinephrine ascends the ominous 600-foot-tall chimney.
Photo: Greg Barnes
Other Routes on Black Velvet Canyon
Black Velvet Canyon - Dream of Wild Turkeys 5.10a - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Dream of Wild Turkeys, 5.10a
Black Velvet Canyon
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Over 1000 feet of amazing climbing on Black Velvet Wall.
Black Velvet Canyon - Prince of Darkness 5.10c - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Prince of Darkness, 5.10c
Black Velvet Canyon
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Prince of Darkness is a classic bolted face route up Black Velvet Wall.
Black Velvet Canyon - Sour Mash 5.10a - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Sour Mash, 5.10a
Black Velvet Canyon
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Sour Mash is an overlooked awesome varied climb.
Black Velvet Canyon - Yellow Brick Road 5.10b - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Yellow Brick Road, 5.10b
Black Velvet Canyon
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Yellow Brick Road is a two-pitch variation to Dream of Wild Turkeys.
Black Velvet Canyon - Overhanging Hangover 5.10a - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click for details.
Overhanging Hangover, 5.10a
Black Velvet Canyon
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Overhanging Hangover ascends an intimidating and exposed roof.
More routes on Black Velvet Canyon