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Three Penguins


Desert Towers, Utah, USA


Trip Report
Three Penguins. Arches National Park.
Monday September 30, 2013 3:52am
Marie had to guide in the morning but was psyched to help me hold my tradition of climbing a tower on my birthday.

Sweet, I get to sleep in. After breakfast I head to woodys for mimosas and football. The Shehawks lost. Haha.

Credit: The Larry

Marie, Jay, and Justin tear me away from my Sunday football bliss and off we go to Arches.

Jay wants to climb the hideous wide crack on the left. We're going to do the classic route on the right.

Our challenge for the day.
Our challenge for the day.
Credit: The Larry

Grizzly Adams aka Jaybro.
Grizzly Adams aka Jaybro.
Credit: The Larry

Heading to the base.

Yup
Yup
Credit: The Larry

The crew.
The crew.
Credit: The Larry

Warming up.
Warming up.
Credit: The Larry

I went over to Jay's rarely done route. It looked rather sandy I thought. After about 30 feet of climbing Jay had deposited a large pile of sand at the base.

Jaybro contemplating the vertical sand box.
Jaybro contemplating the vertical sand box.
Credit: The Larry

Jaybro's type of fun.
Jaybro's type of fun.
Credit: The Larry

So anyway, me and Marie get ready for the right chimney.

All racked up and ready to go.
All racked up and ready to go.
Credit: The Larry

Marie is a little worried about the OW at the top and I tell her that I'll lead it if she wants to stop at the first anchor but that she should send it in one pitch.

She sent it in one pitch. I was happy.

Starting off.
Starting off.
Credit: The Larry

We beat Jaybro and Justin to the top and drank a little Utah water.

Summit beer is the best beer.
Summit beer is the best beer.
Credit: The Larry

Team sand trap finally arrives.

Jaybro topping out.
Jaybro topping out.
Credit: The Larry

Then we turned up the techno and ate a bunch of X.

Credit: The Larry

Credit: The Larry

Credit: The Larry

Go Team!
Go Team!
Credit: The Larry

I forgot a rappel device so I had to rap with Marie.

Spider rap.
Spider rap.
Credit: The Larry

Yard sale.
Yard sale.
Credit: The Larry

We got down just in time for a beautiful sunset.

Moab Valley
Moab Valley
Credit: The Larry

Thanks guys for an awesome birthday.

  Trip Report Views: 2,005
The Larry
About the Author
The Larry is a climber from Moab, UT.

Comments
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Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Sep 30, 2013 - 09:18am PT
Ha ha! A great time was had by all.
I don't know how he does it. Not only did that Larry get a Tr ride up,
Credit: Jaybro
He even got a ride down. Who else finds a way to avoid don't their own rappels?
Credit: Jaybro
Credit: Jaybro
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Sep 30, 2013 - 09:28am PT
This is so f*#king awesome.

Cheers!
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
  Sep 30, 2013 - 09:39am PT
Now that looks like a good time...

...and a little X never hurt a good time!

Thanks for the TR.

skywalker

climber
  Sep 30, 2013 - 09:40am PT
Made my morning! Thanks all!

S...
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Sep 30, 2013 - 09:55am PT

You just gotta find a better beer!!!!
(Jaybro and Marie deserve it)--LOL!!!!

As Kor said, one tower's better than 5 big walls!
couchmaster

climber
  Sep 30, 2013 - 10:01am PT
I'm still laughing at "Team sand trap". LOL!!! Nicely played all.

Ps, Larry, you just missed a significant monsoon that swept through this area dumping record amounts of cold water. Climbing may have been possible but only with wet suits and snorkels. Thanks for the pics of what the real world should look like.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Sep 30, 2013 - 11:57am PT
Good stuff!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
Sweet!
TFPU
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
im too frightened to
believe in anything beyond
wreckless merriment
of a chaotic order,
and your little
celebration, larry,
only encouraged
my wayward spirals.

thanks.
and feliz.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Nearly 36 years ago I was told that it was not permitted to climb the 3 Penguins or anything else that had a name on the USGS topo map, a rather arbitrary and capricious dictate.

No Gossips, Tower of Babel etc.

I found a tower with a known name that had fallen into disuse after the feature it was named for fell off the summit a few decades earlier.

So the name Owl Rock had not been put on the new map.
dirt claud

Social climber
san diego,ca
  Sep 30, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Great TR, looks like some good time were had, way to go!!
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  Oct 2, 2013 - 12:29am PT
Congratulations Larry -- what a great way to celebrate, & great pix. love the hula hoop summit action.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Oct 2, 2013 - 12:49am PT
Very nice...too much fun going on there!
Geez, those park roads from that vantage point look purdy cracked. Better shut 'em down and repair them


Suaan
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Oct 2, 2013 - 02:27am PT

What a great crew and nice route! Congratulations on your b'day and coining "team sandbox". Hey it's not your birthday anymore, so I do have to ask if you checked the sports page the next day?
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Author's Reply  Oct 2, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Oops. Thanks Darwin. I left at halftime. They were losing pretty bad. Nice come back.

Oh and it was "Team Sandtrap" climbing the vertical sand box.
thebravecowboy

climber
just banana-jam it
  Oct 2, 2013 - 12:04pm PT
fecking priceless! Marie did do all of the driving, too, I assume.

Happy birfday Larry!

How was that wyde side Jay?

the penguins are entrada, right? saaaaaaaaannnndddyyyy! good work!
sac

Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
  Oct 2, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
Hey, nice photos!

Quick question...

Is that "sticky rubber" on Jaybro's hoolahoopin kneepads?

klk

Trad climber
cali
  Oct 2, 2013 - 12:23pm PT
i like the look of that approach
Fluoride

Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
  Oct 2, 2013 - 02:19pm PT
Yay Jay and Larry (and Marie and Justin)! Awesome TR, looked like so much fun. I love climbing with Jay. He's the best. Even though you inevitably will end up at the base of something wide.

Damn I miss Moab.
PellucidWombat

Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
  Oct 2, 2013 - 07:53pm PT
How was that wide chimney that Jaybro did? Besides the obvious sandiness? I'm tempted to check that or the one farther left out on a future visit :-)
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 2, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
Happy birthday Larry,
I'm guessin you forgot your rap device on purpose???? ;)
thanks for a great TR!!!!
crunch

Social climber
CO
  Oct 2, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
Hey Larry, happy umm, belated, birthday and all.

Excellent Penguin style!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Author's Reply  Oct 2, 2013 - 10:10pm PT
Thanks for the birthday wishes. You'll have to ask Jaybro about the sand pit. It's rated 5.10- on mountain project.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 2, 2013 - 10:57pm PT
You should give it a try Pellucid. Maybe you can find something I didn't. As far as I'm concerned the sand in the the sandbag rating of .10a was a least as deep as the six inches of sand on some of the holds on the route! Today I climbed the Done lubin' rte, industry standard for moderate 5.11 ow, and no move on it is as hard as the short section on that treacherous penquin waddle! Also, a #9 VG might inspire more confidence than did my tipped out six!

And yup, stealth kneepads, not that they helped particularly

Kerwyn the approach is at least as brutal as it looks! Maybe cause I was the only one not drinking?
zBrown

Ice climber
BrujÚ de la Playa
  Oct 2, 2013 - 10:56pm PT
Uh, why does Marie's bag look so much bigger and heavier than everybody else's? Did she have to haul the hula hoops too?



The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Author's Reply  Oct 2, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
Marie carried the rope, the rack, the hula hoop, and the beer. She's bad ass.
zBrown

Ice climber
BrujÚ de la Playa
  Oct 2, 2013 - 11:20pm PT
Marie also looks like the winner of the hoops game.

Happy birthday to you all.
Osprey

climber
  Oct 3, 2013 - 08:25am PT
Looks like a great day of climbing with good friends. Reminds me of when my friends and I did that route. On a side note, I would like to correct what you wrote in the third and fourth sentences of this wonderful trip report. To keep you from scrolling back to the top, you wrote, "After breakfast I head to woodys for mimosas and football. The Shehawks lost." You then followed it up with a, "Haha." Below is a picture of the best defensive player in the league, the Texans' very own J.J Watt. It is the end of the game and he is looking up past his broken face at the scoreboard which reads Seahawks 23 Texans 20.

Credit: Osprey
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
Author's Reply  Oct 3, 2013 - 06:31pm PT
Damn them Shehawks!
Powder

Trad climber
the Flower Box
  Oct 3, 2013 - 09:27pm PT
What a fun day with fun friends at such a fun place!!!!!

They're not kidding when they call it Three Penguins...

Awesomeness. = )


Thanks for sharing. *^_^*
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Oct 9, 2013 - 03:04pm PT
Aaaahhhhhh...he used the old "forgot my rappel device ploy" yet again, and just look what it got him!

Very fun TR. Thanks for mentioning it Jaybro.

Keep up the good work The Larry. You've got talent.
Gal

Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Oct 9, 2013 - 03:06pm PT
Rad crew! And I like the hula-hooping!
Ryguyroks

Trad climber
Brisbane, QLD, Australia
  Oct 13, 2013 - 01:06am PT
hula shot of Jaybro is fantastic!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Oct 13, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Thanks for posting that the Larry. You know I love Grizzly Jaybro. He's my big brother :-)

DMT
Decko

Trad climber
Colorado
  Oct 13, 2013 - 10:03am PT
Freakin sweet looking day of fun with obviously some folks that can have a damn fine time....

Any lady that's willing to have some PBR on top and lead.....

Get a ring on her finger....

eKat

Trad climber
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:30pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
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Three Penguins - Right Chimney 5.10c - Desert Towers, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
A view of the route from the road.
Photo: Chris McNamara