Regular Route 5.10b

 
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Third Pillar of Dana


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Third Pillar of Dana
Monday July 11, 2011 11:32pm
*All Picture are at the end if that's what you're looking for!*


So Me and my buddy Andrew headed up to Tuolumne Friday afternoon for probably one of the best weekends I've had in awhile. We had the Third Pillar of Dana in our sights. Neither of us had lead in the 10's but we were feeling pretty confident and just went for it.

Packing Friday morning I feared we would need Ice axe and crampons, just what I wanted to be carrying on my back for my first hard lead!

Anyways back to the story. We pulled into Tuolumne around 9 to the still closed campgrounds... So we opted to head to the East Side entrance and try to find camping. We pulled into the Tioga Lake campground to see if there were any spots left. The campground host jumped in front of our car to tell us that there was one spot left? Heck yes!!!

So with camping secured for two nights we started to rack up for the next day. Even though I brought my snow gear I decided not to bring it, and am really happy because we didnt need it. We got up the next morning at 5, and hit the trail at 5:30, passing one party on the approach! The approach took just about two hours, and it was beautiful hiking up the Dana plateau. Dana couloir looks amazing, and I have already planned a trip to come back in October to climb it.

The descent to the base of the Pillar says third class, but it was pretty much fourth class all the way down, nothing to hard though. Crossing the snow field was pretty fun, as we had on our climbing shoes. So we grabbed some rocks and used them as mini axes and crossed the snow. They was a good amount of rock fall (down the snow gulley, but most of it was lower) so just be cautious.

All I can say is that this is probably the best climb I've done so far!!! Every pitch was awesome. I lead pitches 1,3,5 out of the supertopo guide. It was my first 10 lead, and high alpine lead! Im definitely coming back to hit more peaks asap. The route is really straight forward. The crux fourth pitch really wasnt that bad, maybe because I didnt lead it, but its pretty well protected by a piton. The fifth pitch was definitely the most invigorating and most fun for me. It was a slightly runout 5.9 flake hike to a thin undercling somewhat crimpy two move wonder. And the rest was mantling and reaching high for nice jugs! It was amazing to belay at the summit blocks.

I have limited pictures from my iphone and as soon as I get more from my partner i will post them! I highly recommend this route to everyone!

Additional Tuolumne beta: Talked with people who did Mathews Crest and said that there was still way to much snow, but did Oz and loved it.
We passed a couple who was skiing the Dana couloir! Props for carrying in skiis that far!
Also met Bud and Cliff on the route. Awesome guys if you ever meet them.
As we were walking out, we ran into a guy named Bruce who was driving around the US in a van he had just bought. While talking with him, found out he was good friends with my family friends in Park City! So he offered us a good portion of the trout he had just caught, so it was a great way to end the day!

The rest of the weekend consisted of sleeping in El Cap meadow and climbing the first two pitches of Central Pillar!

Picture time:
Credit: Sonic
Credit: Sonic
Credit: Sonic
Credit: Sonic
A look at pitch 1
A look at pitch 1
Credit: Sonic
Crossing the snow field
Crossing the snow field
Credit: Sonic
Andrew leading pitch 2
Andrew leading pitch 2
Credit: Sonic
the 5.7ow on this pitch was exhausting!
the 5.6 chimney leading to what the topo says was an amazing belay loc...
the 5.6 chimney leading to what the topo says was an amazing belay location. Climb the route and let me know what you think... Sitting behind a huge detached death flake was awesome...lol
Credit: Sonic
Giant detached flake of pitch 4!
Giant detached flake of pitch 4!
Credit: Sonic
Bomber anchor...fixed piton and tree
Bomber anchor...fixed piton and tree
Credit: Sonic
Andrew following pitch 5
Andrew following pitch 5
Credit: Sonic
Mt Dana!
Mt Dana!
Credit: Sonic
Tuolumne!
Tuolumne!
Credit: Sonic
Nice view of Cathedral.  Still haven't climbed it, but its next on the...
Nice view of Cathedral. Still haven't climbed it, but its next on the list!
Credit: Sonic

  Trip Report Views: 2,948
Sonic
About the Author
Sonic is a trad climber from Folsom, California.

Comments
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jul 11, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
++
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 12, 2011 - 07:57am PT
Well done Sonic!!

Climbing content, how dare you.......
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jul 12, 2011 - 10:14am PT
Good stuff!
Kurt Ettinger

Trad climber
Martinez, CA
  Jul 12, 2011 - 10:24am PT
Two thumbs UP!!
jewedlaw

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  Jul 12, 2011 - 10:51am PT
Dang, now I want to do it.

Who wants to go next weekend?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 12, 2011 - 05:03pm PT
Way to go on your first 10 lead!!!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jul 13, 2011 - 01:19am PT
Awesome report! Very nice to see people pushing their limits and loving it!
Zander

climber
  Jul 13, 2011 - 07:46pm PT
Sweet!
Karla

climber
Colorado
  Jul 13, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
It's definitely a fun one and the views aren't too shabby. Congrats!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Jul 18, 2011 - 12:16pm PT
Oh yeah! So many good TR's lately - thanks for posting up!
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 18, 2011 - 12:31pm PT
Thanks a lot, Looks fun.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jul 18, 2011 - 12:47pm PT
Bump!
amora

Sport climber
Diamond Bar
  Jul 12, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
I cant wait to lead my first 10
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Third Pillar of Dana - Regular Route 5.10b - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
One of the more spectacular lines in Tuolumne.
Photo: Marshall Minobe