That was the Dunn? I've done that! You know where you tunnel through to the Primrose at the top? Well you can thank us canucks for excavating the tunnel wider. I recall moving about 100 lbs of rock there. We couldn't figure out how to squeeze through without it! Too claustrophobic I guess
you jumped too? Fantastic. You know a jumper from seattle named Tom? We helped him jump Castleton a few years ago. He would chain smoke just before hucking! I almost barfed myself a couple of times but he always pulled it off without a hitch. I guess you really know it when you don't
It WAS awesome! No doubt, you two make a great team.
But I was saying goodbye to the cameraman.
You mean the dood carrying all the gear back down, right? Lessee here....BASE= carry no gear back down vs rap = carrying all the gear back down. I donno, seems 50/50 to me. Could be worth learning to BASE safely if there is such a thing. Besides, how many here have never dreamt or dreamed of flying, raise your hands. I don't see any hands....
You don't hear about this one so often. 'Love the punchy fist section on the crux pitch; one of my favorites for the size. My partner for this was Dan Granduski. I daresay the pre-mission gear up down at the Denver methadone clinic with Clean Dan, followed up with the ensuing drive with Not-so-clean-Dan at the wheel was nearly more eventful (mental) than the climb!
After the crux, I wish we had opted for the bombay flare instead of the tunnel through. The tunnel through may be novel but it feels like an escape and the flare looks worthy and is reminiscent of the 10D flare on Hotline.
Oh well, as consolation ... a dab of Dan's stash did prompt some delicious (if naughty) little cat naps!
Josh. We left the fixed static on the 3rd pitch. The yellow line was wrapped around the tower and we couldn't free it. As I rapped down pale fire I saw that it was fixed to a bolt for some reason. I couldn't figure out why so I didn't mess with it. Whoever goes up there next should cut it loose on the Dunn route anchor and then free it on the way down PF.
Edit. Yeah, Hank blew out his O ring on the crux pitch.
I couldn´t believe it was your first desert tower either.It seemed so obvious that someone with your experience would have climbed a bunch.Then I remembered that I haven´t climbed any.But thats the beauty of climbing.Theres never a lack of new adventures.
Carrying 3 x 4 Camolots, 3 x 3.5 Camalots and 3 x 3 Camalots was definitely out of my comfort range. It seems to be good at that type of climbing there are some tricks, like putting all your gear on one side of you because the other side will be smashed against a wall while you try and fist jam like a boss...
I could be good at this type of climbing, getting used to such rotten rock is funny but I like being scared and you just feel so classic being on a desert tower. I just kept telling myself, "they did this sh#t in the 80's" over and over again.
Yes, the Wife and I would fully have thrown down on that summit. We were more occupied with the ride down though.
EDIT- That climb is now in my Top 3 climbing experiences. I've been climbing for 30 years, redpointed hundreds of 5.13s, led every pitch of the B/Y, 9 time National Finalist, etc etc blah blah blah, but that Dunn route altered my reality. It was such horribly hard, horrible climbing, to such a fantastic summit that I think I'm in love!