Trip Report
The most extreme desert tower adventure of all time..
Saturday May 3, 2014 1:58pm
So me, the Wifey and the Larry did the Dunn Route on Moses yesterday. My 1st desert tower.
Credit: The Larry
Really cool tower!
Credit: Hankster
Scary traverse toward crux pitch, lot's of scary..
Credit: Hankster
Lots of funny little connector pitches to connect the real pitches.
Credit: Hankster
Not happy about the crux pitch
Credit: Hankster
Very happy with my belayer!
Credit: Hankster
Contemplating water
Credit: Hankster
Credit: Hankster
Credit: Hankster
Credit: Hankster
Credit: Hankster
Credit: Hankster
Badass Wife gettin' it done!
Credit: Hankster
Credit: Hankster
Totally adorable cave at the top of the crux pitch

Credit: Hankster
Summit
Credit: Bun Bun
Summit victory snort with the Larry!!
Credit: Hankster
A little more Larry love!


That place is amazing, sandbagged as hell 5.11s but amazing.
Credit: Hankster



  Trip Report Views: 2,277
Hankster
About the Author
Hankster is a social climber from Texas/Boulder.

Comments
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lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  May 3, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Funloads! TFPU
lars
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  May 3, 2014 - 02:10pm PT
wow! I can't believe your Gay Pro survived the wide!
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
  May 3, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
Awesome! Thanks for the TR!
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
  May 3, 2014 - 02:28pm PT
Great job Hank, Bun and Larry I like Primrose better than the Dunn Route, little to wide for my taste. :-)
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  May 3, 2014 - 02:47pm PT
That was the Dunn? I've done that! You know where you tunnel through to the Primrose at the top? Well you can thank us canucks for excavating the tunnel wider. I recall moving about 100 lbs of rock there. We couldn't figure out how to squeeze through without it! Too claustrophobic I guess
W.L.

climber
Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  May 3, 2014 - 02:54pm PT
Thanks for posting, Hank! Makes me want to head back to the Utah desert ASAFP.
eKat

Trad climber
  May 3, 2014 - 02:57pm PT
BITCHEN!

TFPU!
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  May 3, 2014 - 02:59pm PT
Sweet. Seems like a nice tall tower. Hauling all that gear could not have been fun.
Bruce Kay

Gym climber
BC
  May 3, 2014 - 03:03pm PT
you jumped too? Fantastic. You know a jumper from seattle named Tom? We helped him jump Castleton a few years ago. He would chain smoke just before hucking! I almost barfed myself a couple of times but he always pulled it off without a hitch. I guess you really know it when you don't

Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  May 3, 2014 - 03:09pm PT
What's with the knee pads in the first pick? Did you crawl there?
And why did I guess you weren't gonna rap? Nice pics!
But there were a lot of smiles for something so scary. :-)
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  May 3, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
man, BASE looks like a good way to get hurt/killed

very cool TR though
jewedlaw

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
  May 3, 2014 - 03:22pm PT
Does the last person say "see ya" if there's no one else on the tower to hear it?
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
  May 3, 2014 - 03:25pm PT
Way to live, you guys. You're role models!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  May 3, 2014 - 03:46pm PT
Awesome job! Congrats on your first tower in fine style!


For some reason I'm surprised you've never climbed a desert tower before Hank?! Sounds like it probably won't be your last.

crunch

Social climber
CO
  May 3, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
Congrats on summiting Moses. One of the big ones! Psyched for you. Sounds like a lot of fun!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  May 3, 2014 - 04:22pm PT
Sweet send!!! Great photos, looks like a blast.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 3, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
It WAS awesome! No doubt, you two make a great team.

But I was saying goodbye to the cameraman.

You mean the dood carrying all the gear back down, right? Lessee here....BASE= carry no gear back down vs rap = carrying all the gear back down. I donno, seems 50/50 to me. Could be worth learning to BASE safely if there is such a thing. Besides, how many here have never dreamt or dreamed of flying, raise your hands. I don't see any hands....
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
  May 3, 2014 - 05:33pm PT
Momomoses
Momomoses
Credit: The Larry
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  May 3, 2014 - 06:11pm PT
Way to go Hank!

You don't hear about this one so often. 'Love the punchy fist section on the crux pitch; one of my favorites for the size. My partner for this was Dan Granduski. I daresay the pre-mission gear up down at the Denver methadone clinic with Clean Dan, followed up with the ensuing drive with Not-so-clean-Dan at the wheel was nearly more eventful (mental) than the climb!

After the crux, I wish we had opted for the bombay flare instead of the tunnel through. The tunnel through may be novel but it feels like an escape and the flare looks worthy and is reminiscent of the 10D flare on Hotline.

Oh well, as consolation ... a dab of Dan's stash did prompt some delicious (if naughty) little cat naps!
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  May 3, 2014 - 07:23pm PT
Hank - Serious, that was your first desert tower???? I'm incredulous - you better get to work; there are lots to do!!

Paul
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 3, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
Awesome, what a way to descend!!!!
Michelle

Social climber
1187 Hunterwasser
  May 3, 2014 - 07:40pm PT
Nice!!
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
  May 3, 2014 - 08:55pm PT
I know. Right Gagner. I was like " and you picked Moses for your first one?" The hot wife has a few under her belt. Hopefully there is more towers in our future. What a fun crew to hang out with.

Summit!
Summit!
Credit: The Larry
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  May 3, 2014 - 09:17pm PT
Thanks. That is awesome.
Bob D'A

Trad climber
Taos, NM
  May 3, 2014 - 09:59pm PT
I kind of amazed that it was Hank's first tower, even a sport wanker like me has done maybe 20+.

Get after it Hank. Best summits in climbing.
this just in

climber
north fork
  May 3, 2014 - 10:00pm PT
F*#king awesome! Thanks for the TR.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  May 3, 2014 - 11:03pm PT

Nice job, Hank!
Glad you all got down safely!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  May 4, 2014 - 08:05am PT
Tower power! Great report and proud send. Fun photos too. I dig The Wifey's helmet.

Scott
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  May 4, 2014 - 10:37am PT
awesome.
swollenknuckle

climber
moab, utah
  May 4, 2014 - 11:35am PT
Nice one Hank! Mike Klein and I were up on Washer Woman at the same time.

Paul Irby
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
  May 4, 2014 - 11:42am PT
Hehehe, hehehehe...

He said extreme.
jsj

climber
  May 4, 2014 - 01:45pm PT
Very cool!

Any chance you guys cleaned any of that manky fixed rope on the Dunn Route?
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
  May 4, 2014 - 04:13pm PT
Looks awesome!
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  May 4, 2014 - 04:16pm PT
Cool stuff, extreme sport with a smile...
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Author's Reply  May 4, 2014 - 05:10pm PT
jsj, we left all mank as we found it. My head was exploded.
The Larry

climber
Moab, UT
  May 4, 2014 - 06:15pm PT
Josh. We left the fixed static on the 3rd pitch. The yellow line was wrapped around the tower and we couldn't free it. As I rapped down pale fire I saw that it was fixed to a bolt for some reason. I couldn't figure out why so I didn't mess with it. Whoever goes up there next should cut it loose on the Dunn route anchor and then free it on the way down PF.

Edit. Yeah, Hank blew out his O ring on the crux pitch.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  May 4, 2014 - 08:18pm PT
Hankster, Hot Wife, & The Larry! Thanks for sharing the adventure!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 4, 2014 - 10:50pm PT
Woooo Hoooo!!! Awesome!

Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  May 4, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
Awesome!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  May 5, 2014 - 01:13am PT
Seems like an excellent outing! Thank u for posting!
jonnyrig

climber
  May 5, 2014 - 01:23am PT
Very nice. Thanks!
Edge

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
  May 5, 2014 - 01:23am PT
A most excellent TR, thanks for sharing.

I love pictures that get me sweating in my easy chair.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  May 5, 2014 - 11:00am PT
hey there say, hank-and-hot-wife...

wow, once again, just LOVE seeing you and your gal in adventure-time, in the greatoutdoors!...

wonderful pics, and wonderful scenery for them...

say, and great to see the larry, there, too...
nothing like sharing fun with good buddies...

thank so much...

i will add this and join in with edge:
excellent share... :)
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
  May 5, 2014 - 12:38pm PT
hehehehehe, 1 down, 1,000 to go
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  May 5, 2014 - 12:44pm PT
Good stuff!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  May 5, 2014 - 12:51pm PT
So we're always hearing about the "hot wife". What about the other one(s)?
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  May 5, 2014 - 05:34pm PT
Loved it.

Wouldn't want to bump into these two in a dark alley. Look kind of rowdy.



thebravecowboy

climber
in the face of the fury of the funk
  May 6, 2014 - 12:20am PT
looks like fun!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  May 6, 2014 - 12:45am PT
Awesome.
dickcilley

Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
  May 6, 2014 - 07:34am PT
I couldn´t believe it was your first desert tower either.It seemed so obvious that someone with your experience would have climbed a bunch.Then I remembered that I haven´t climbed any.But thats the beauty of climbing.Theres never a lack of new adventures.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
  May 6, 2014 - 07:49am PT
Absolutely fantastic. What fun and incredible pics. Some folks know how to have FUN
Susan
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  May 6, 2014 - 08:59am PT
Nice TR!

Jimmy Dunn would get a kick reading this, but he never gets on a computer. His wife steers him away, which is probably a good thing.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  May 6, 2014 - 09:05am PT
Nice! First tower eh....bet you and the wife are hooked now.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 6, 2014 - 10:13am PT
Sick report!!!!
...and taking the fast way down, dang.

ps- I have a feeling that if The Larry wasn't along there would've been some Hanky Panky goin' on in that cave...or on the summit...or both!!!

edit:
am I right or am I RIGHT???!!!
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Author's Reply  May 6, 2014 - 10:39am PT
Carrying 3 x 4 Camolots, 3 x 3.5 Camalots and 3 x 3 Camalots was definitely out of my comfort range. It seems to be good at that type of climbing there are some tricks, like putting all your gear on one side of you because the other side will be smashed against a wall while you try and fist jam like a boss...

I could be good at this type of climbing, getting used to such rotten rock is funny but I like being scared and you just feel so classic being on a desert tower. I just kept telling myself, "they did this sh#t in the 80's" over and over again.

Yes, the Wife and I would fully have thrown down on that summit. We were more occupied with the ride down though.

EDIT- That climb is now in my Top 3 climbing experiences. I've been climbing for 30 years, redpointed hundreds of 5.13s, led every pitch of the B/Y, 9 time National Finalist, etc etc blah blah blah, but that Dunn route altered my reality. It was such horribly hard, horrible climbing, to such a fantastic summit that I think I'm in love!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  May 6, 2014 - 12:14pm PT
W and the B ride again! Beats rapping man!!!!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  May 6, 2014 - 05:24pm PT
First class, all the way.

I dreamed about doing this sort of thing back about 40 years ago. Good to see that it's a reality now, just wish that I had been able to try it before I got old.
KabalaArch

Trad climber
Starlite, California
  May 6, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
I dreamed about doing this sort of thing back about 40 years ago. Good to see that it's a reality now, just wish that I had been able to try it before I got old.

Saw a picture of Moses for the 1st time in the '78 edition of Ascent. Finally done the Dunn in about '98. Hell, it took at least 10 years to figure out where the tower was located.

Gotta love the name of the aid line which goes out the Moses chin feature: "The Promised Land." No doubt!
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