Trip Report
The Sum of Bouldering=100+ Pictures
Saturday February 22, 2014 3:03pm
This is not a single trip report, it is a summary of multiple trips from 2006-2011. Bouldering will always have a special spot in my heart. Days filled with laughter, pain, and best of all, friends.

San Joaquin River Gorge or Squaw Leap

This is a winter bouldering paradise. Auberry, CA is the closest town about twenty minutes away. The boulders are a polished granite similar to the Valley. It requires that delicate balance between strength and finesse. Pull too hard and you pop off and too soft results the same. Lip traverses, crimps, some cracks, and some water problems are what make this place great. Many of the boulders have sh#t landings, so bring your friends and pads. Multiple pads are used to fill in holes on some problems. There is a $5 day use fee now, but worth the price. Grahm has a little mini guide for the area on rc.com, I think a lot of these pics are also on there.


Brandon McLemmore (Mac) on Cedar Wright Left, V3. Cedar Wright is credited with the FA of this perfect rail problem that finishes on pulling a lip.



Jeremy Ross on Crank it Up, V7. One of the many harder problems by Jacob Copeland.



Mac on Dead and Bloated, V5.




Jeremy fighting for leverage on the crux mantle. That left foot is slick and the whole time you feel like a slip results in a new shin shaving. Great problem.



Top rope wall.




The left facing crack is a over the water problem called Squaw Leap, V3. It's not the cleanest of falls, you hit a sloping rock that directs you to deeper water.


Good view of the rock you land on.


Notice anything? Walking out with wet blue jeans sucks, wearing a swimsuit is highly recommended. This is such a great problem and I fell twice and that rock under water didn't hurt either time.


Grahm Doe on Dyno Might, V6. A loooong throw and then a committing topout.


Three great lip traverses. From left to right, Supervisor, V2, High Roller, V5, Steam Roller,V3.
High Roller is the gem of the three.


Hansel Heiss on Supervisor.












Grahm on Stilleto, V4. Perfect finger crack that looks easier than it is.


Leo Miner on Splash Down, V4. A great water problem, that if you're not feeling like swimming you can pretty much top out anywhere on the lip.


Grahm showing proper landing technique.


Myself not so much.


Mac on Heel Boy,V3.






Grahm on High Voltage, V6.


Myself on Powerhouse, V4. Campus from two crimps.


Jeremy on Blackout, V5. No one else even got close on this one, shitty landing.




Mega Ohm, V5. My favorite problem. This is the view from the footbridge. Each day I would stare at this perfect lip traverse. Finally we decided it had to at least be tried. I remember getting about ten feet on it then saying f*#k, the landing is real shitty and as I fell I was thinking broken ankle. When I landed relatively easy it was game on. My brother Jeremy got the first, Grahm right after, then myself. Three sends in a row and as I sat atop that boulder words can't describe the feeling, but climbers know it well. Why we climb.




Grahm on Mega Ohm.


Jeremy on Torque Convertor, V5. Yeah he was sounding like Sharma.




Myself on Supervisor.


Grahm on High Wire, V2.


Jeremy on Desperate Measures, V4. One of the best all around problems down there. A little bit of everything and finishes with this dyno from undercling.


Another view.


Bare Bottom Boulders
This area is somewhat secret, so can't give the location cause I'm sworn to secrecy. Named Bare Bottom after some hard starts. The climbing is similar to Buttermilks in terms of rock quality and texture.


Myself on a fun warmup.


Grahm on can't remember the name, think it's V3? It actually starts way low in a cave and overhanging jugs and tops out with a tough mantle.


Myself on an Unnamed.


Hans on an unnamed.


Hans on Gunslinger, V4. Hard finish.


The hard finish


Jeremy on Gunslinger.


Grahm on .38 Special, V5. The gem of the area, some perfect incuts on this steep problem. Another of my all time favorites.


Grahm on the FA.


Jeremy high balling. This is also a top rope.


Hans on .45 Caliber, V6. Sharp crimps on this one, I could barely get two moves up. Hans has always had a knack for small crimps.


Hans holds on for the FA and only so far.


Shuteye Ridge

Shuteye is vast and for the most part requires a hike. Once you get there you are rewarded with some of the best rock quality and bouldering in the world. Jugs, incuts, plates, cracks, and dykes all with a rather smooth finish making it finger friendly. The views are great too.


Jeremy silhouette.


Jeremy on an Unnamed.


Shaun Nizah on another Unnamed.


Slayer, V5 maybe 6. Not sure if anyone else has done this, but I called it Slayer after the band and because it slays people and doesn't look like it would.


Another view of the slick rail.


Matt Schutz on a V3, not sure of name.








Jeremy on same problem


Grahm leads Machete, 5.10d on the Petrified Elephant Boulder


Jeremy on same climb, I'm the badass belaying.


Grahm on Martian Traverse, V3. This one is nearly horizontal, with big jugs and a fun mantle finish.


Myself on the Earth Boulder.




Myself on Space Cadet, 5.7. Fun four bolt climb.






Myself on IHOP, 10d I think. Crux is low then a mellow 40' of climbing.








FA pics by Slater.


Mac on Unnamed.






Mac on a fun warmup wall.






Myself on another Unnamed.






You guessed it another Unnamed fun problem.




Kevin Ludwig aka Doughnutnational on Show Me Your Tips, V2.






Ludwig on an Unnamed.


More Unnamed.








Mac


My baby (not the dude)






Be sure to chalk up


Myself on Th Spine, VB.

My other baby.

Bonus Pics


Jeremy on Whiskey Traverse, V4. This thing is five minutes from my house and by one of the best swimming holes around.








Jeremy bouldering at Squarnail.


Myself being camera shy


Hans on Ben Hur Boulder.




Total top secret spot.


A Nickle to first to get what problem this is.

Hopefully some will enjoy the bouldering at these areas, they will always have a special place in my heart and mind.

Regards,
Justin Ross

  Trip Report Views: 2,945
this just in
About the Author
this just in is a climber from north fork.

Comments
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ncrockclimber

climber
The Desert Oven
  Feb 22, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
Wow! Just WOW! Thanks for posting up. That took some of the sting out of sitting at home sick on a Saturday.
moosedrool

climber
lost, far away from Poland
  Feb 22, 2014 - 04:42pm PT
Although I consider bouldering an activity for poor people, this is pure awesomness!

TFPU!

Moose
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Feb 22, 2014 - 05:13pm PT
Very cool Justin!! Thanks! You guys need to name some problems me thinks!! ;)
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
  Feb 22, 2014 - 06:13pm PT
Very nice overview of recent bouldering trips. Thanks
lars
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Feb 22, 2014 - 07:36pm PT
Inspiring stuff Justin & amazing photos! Thanks for the efforts here man, I know this must've taken you awhile to put together.

I'm psyched! Too bad it's snowing, well that's ok I guess....but this TR has me jonesing.

Some of that stone you get to climb on looks immaculate. You are Super lucky to have so many beautiful areas nearby. What's the best season?



Oh, 1 more question: do you do real climbing too???



;-)
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  Feb 22, 2014 - 07:55pm PT
Worthy!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Feb 22, 2014 - 09:13pm PT
Worthy no kidding.
jgill

Boulder climber
Colorado
  Feb 22, 2014 - 09:26pm PT
do you do real climbing too???


Pay no attention to this ;>)

It's a nice energetic sport isn't it? I'm amazed at the number of participants these days.


RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Feb 23, 2014 - 12:29am PT
do you do real climbing too???

Mr Gill, I thought you would pick up on my sarcasm :-)

I love bouldering!!

& I can't stop looking at these pics!
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 23, 2014 - 01:50am PT
Ha, I knew your sarcasm and that you're not a real climber too Ryan. I was hoping Mr. Gill would see this. One of my climbing heroes, thanks for all your climbing pioneering jgill.

Thanks for all the comments everyone.

Ryan, summer/ fall is best for climbing around here. Mi casa es su casa. Wait, do Canadians know what that means?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Feb 23, 2014 - 01:22am PT
nice collection of pics and dig the pure love of the area coming thru!
Randisi

climber
  Feb 23, 2014 - 02:31am PT
Never ever show pictures of secret areas. Ever!

The surest way to ruin them.

Damn, that one area has some bad landings.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Feb 23, 2014 - 03:16am PT
The-Sum-of-Bouldering and The-Hum-of-Rock. Simply amazing....
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Feb 23, 2014 - 07:09am PT
This is the REAL DEAL!!!!
Nice collection. Great effort!!!!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Feb 23, 2014 - 07:10am PT
hey there say, this just in...
wow, this just great, it is...

:)


thanks for sharing... can't see all the pics, or i'd say more...

really neat, though, :
thank you again...
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Feb 23, 2014 - 10:41am PT
Ryan, summer/ fall is best for climbing around here. Mi casa es su casa. Wait, do Canadians know what that means?


You got it man, learned that one already. It was above the door in the washroom of a Mexican restaurant when I was in America once. It means all employees must wash their hands before returning to work right??


Lol just kiddin yeah right back atcha Justin that'd be cool!
Gene

climber
  Feb 23, 2014 - 10:49am PT
Somethings wrong. Very low beanie-to-boulder ratio.

TFPU.

g
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 23, 2014 - 12:03pm PT
Gene, that's a good one.

Ryan, your Spanish is spot on.

Big Mike, Unnamed just sounds so cool. I think many have names, but I have forgot what we called them and some have been climbed before and don't know what they called them.

Moose, poor has never felt so good.

Jefe and Peter, thanks, you guys are always posting worth.

Nrock, glad I could help it's been a nasty flu season.

Lars, thanks for the comments.

Neebee, this thing musta been a nightmare to load on dial up, thanks.

Randisi, I am glad you got to see these, cause I enjoy the bouldering pics you've posted.

Marlow, always appreciate your kind words, good to see Norway doing good in the Olympics.

Munge, thanks and you know what I'm talking about.

Dr Fry, Glad you liked it and it's not too late.

Ezra, thanks for always being stoked to see TRs.

Can't believe no one has named the mystery problem at the end.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Feb 23, 2014 - 05:06pm PT
Stoked!

Yer mystery problem is too easy. Cocaine Corner, Camp 4.

One of my favorites. That thing bouted me for years and years, finally did it after countless attempts, and can usually do it within a couple tries in good temps these days. Super classic.

Here's a spotter-free run from a couple seasons ago in awful temps (~88F):
sandstone conglomerate

climber
sharon conglomerate central
  Feb 23, 2014 - 05:45pm PT
Great TR, How can you not love bouldering? Climbing at it's most basic.
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 23, 2014 - 06:44pm PT
Thanks sandstone, I agree.

Elcapinyoazz for the win, I thought it was easy and would be identified right away. It is a fun one, thanks for the video. 88 degrees is not ideal.
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Feb 23, 2014 - 06:51pm PT
This is f*#king AWESOME!!!!!!!

Super stoked! Thanks for sharin'!
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
  Feb 23, 2014 - 07:38pm PT
Awesome pictures thanks for posting. I want to try the crack the guy in the green shirt is climbing.
David D.

Trad climber
California
  Feb 23, 2014 - 10:10pm PT
Are the pictures broken for anyone else?
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 24, 2014 - 12:27pm PT
Thanks leggs, glad you enjoyed it.

Ludwig, when we can get up there let's go do that thing.

David, I haven't had any problems, but it does take a little while to load.
TwistedCrank

climber
Released into general population, Idaho
  Feb 24, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
That's not a sum. It's an integral.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Feb 24, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
TJI, best threads, man, best threads.

This photo is great, the shadows and the body language are awesome

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Feb 24, 2014 - 02:38pm PT
Thanks for the look Justin,

Great shots!
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Feb 24, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
so awesome. you got a slice of paradise out there.

I gotta visit this season.
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2014 - 01:11pm PT
Thanks Twisted.

le_bruce, thanks man. I love the shadows on that one too. This one below has better color, but I think I like the shadows more.

First attempt. Pic by Grahm.

WML, break that pad in good, not too good though. Have fun and thanks.

Josh, I'm sure you recognize some of those stones. Thanks.

Splitclimber, I am lucky to live where I do and am grateful for it. Thanks, hope you get out here soon.

Phyl, thanks and glad you enjoyed it. Hopefully your shoulder is doing good.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Feb 25, 2014 - 01:01am PT
Super! I never even boulder and I loved this TR.
Thanks, Justin
Phyl
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
  Feb 27, 2014 - 12:49am PT
Credit: Slater

I LOVE bouldering.

A rope and harness just gets in the way!
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Feb 27, 2014 - 12:59am PT
I can dig it. Pics are the Fab, man.
Oh yeah.
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 27, 2014 - 10:27am PT
Slater, thanks for all your pics in this TR.

Thanks, Captain or Skully.
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Feb 27, 2014 - 10:32am PT
Beautiful images man, almost overwhelming.

I so need to get back to Shuteye this year....

DMT
craig morris

Trad climber
la
  Feb 27, 2014 - 10:45am PT
Great pics, thanks
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 27, 2014 - 05:32pm PT
Thanks, Craig and DMT.
DMT, yeah you should! How long has it been?
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Feb 28, 2014 - 02:48pm PT
Awesome Content BUMP
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
  Feb 28, 2014 - 05:01pm PT
Wow that is beautiful. Would really like to check out shut eye sometime. Now even more reasons.
westhegimp

Social climber
granada hills
  Feb 28, 2014 - 07:14pm PT
Awesome pics. Thanks I needed that.

Wes
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Feb 28, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
Thanks for the bump Leggs.

Mike, thanks, I have the same feeling about the Black Hills and the Needles. Eventually.

Thank you westhegimp.
tollsar

climber
who me?
  Mar 1, 2014 - 05:54pm PT
Dude!!! awesome pics! glad you posted, brings back some of the best memories! Hey who is the guy with the long hair? what a dirt bag, I heard he is super weak!
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Mar 1, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
That's hardcore McLemoore, tollsar. He'd probably beat your ass and eat your baby if he heard you talking like that. The guy is a hothead and I heard he only runs now and cries the whole time cause he feels bad that his footsteps are slowly killing the earth. That's how hardcore he is.

Sh#t yeah Mac! So many good days in these pics. I'll hit you up soon, Tollhouse or squaw in the near future.
Fletcher

Gym climber
A very quiet place
  Mar 2, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
Wow, thanks! This may just be one of my all time favorite mondo TRs! I just got back from 2 days of swim meets in the rain (not necessarily a bad thing!) and this was perfect for some down time. Nice photography... you really captured the spirit of bouldering. Good stuff.

I'm looking forward to exploring the area later this year.

Cheers,
Eric
this just in

climber
north fork
Author's Reply  Mar 2, 2014 - 10:29pm PT
Thanks Eric, stoked you are going to explore the area soon.
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