The Sting 5.10b R

 
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Harlequin Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
The Sting, Harlequin Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, CA
Monday August 10, 2015 6:51pm
What a great route!

Linda and I had it on our list, this last Sunday we went and did it... we had also convinced Allyson and Ted to also, so we had a great little party on all the fantastic belay ledges up the route...


Here is the way we went
the way we went...
the way we went...
Credit: Ed Hartouni

a slight variation on the pitches to get off, going the very easy way to the top and then walking down to the west over Harlequin Dome's shoulder.

The first pitch is shared with Hoodwink and is a very interesting 5.8, with some steep powerful moves before gaining a complex ledge system. I lead that one and ran into some difficulty where I hadn't before, and did the previously difficult stuff without much effort...
At the first belay
At the first belay
Credit: Ed Hartouni

Linda lead pitch 2, which is an unrelenting set of mantels... usually protected, but managing the rope drag is a real premium... some interesting dike walking to connect the bolts, and a final mantel to a diagonally crack that takes you up to the west side of the roof... a good place to belay. Ted declared this pitch "exciting" and "full value." I concur!

Here Allyson launches off on the 3rd pitch while Linda belays me, just before I do that last ass kicking mantel to finish the 2nd.
Allyson starting the third pitch... Linda belaying me up on the second...
Allyson starting the third pitch... Linda belaying me up on the second pitch...
Credit: Ed Hartouni


I got to lead the traversing pitch under the roof... wow! what a great pitch... I thought for sure I wouldn't make it but there is enough there, hands and feet... though I didn't protect the last third because the clock was definitely ticking. I did finish by not putting any pro in to get on top of yet another great ledge and belayed Linda on that unprotected part pretty much from above.

The "sting" is that last bit to the main ledge... here Linda is getting into the bidness...
Linda at the crux of the short but fierce fourth pitch
Linda at the crux of the short but fierce fourth pitch
Credit: Ed Hartouni

which is hard to describe, but it is yet another pretty powerful set of moves...

We then traversed off to the tree, which is not on this route, but is a very mellow way to end...
Linda waiting for me to get my act together to traverse to the tree...
Linda waiting for me to get my act together to traverse to the tree...
Credit: Ed Hartouni

Up the corner and onto the broad top...

Had a great day on a great climb with some wonderful partners.

  Trip Report Views: 3,507
Ed Hartouni
About the Author
Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.

Comments
msiddens

Trad climber
  Aug 10, 2015 - 06:57pm PT
Great route and I loved this one.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 10, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
Nice....keeping it real! Nice and cool here too....only steep, well bolted sport climbing but good exercise.
ground_up

Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
  Aug 10, 2015 - 07:30pm PT
Thanks for letting us tag along .
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Aug 10, 2015 - 08:27pm PT
Looks fun! Wish I had more time for Toulumne...
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  Aug 10, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
Great route. Remember that one well from my first summer in the Meadows, '83 I think. One of my partners commented that he got a no hands rest under that roof by pasting his shoulders under the roof and letting go with his hands. I tried it and immediately my feet started sliding downward. I barely saved it before cutting loose.
Friend

climber
  Aug 10, 2015 - 09:46pm PT
Cool!
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Aug 10, 2015 - 10:04pm PT
Nice Ed! You are doing some good routes this summer. Full value 10b for sure. I remember the route finding was a bit tricky on the second pitch. The crack system just to the left of your "2" also shares that first steep 5.8 corner start and is a good outing. No harder than "The Sting" and ends up at the Hoodwink Roof.
T H

Boulder climber
ne'erdowell
  Aug 10, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
I didn't see the huge arch on any of the listed routes, but surely it's been done?
limpingcrab

Gym climber
Minkler, CA
  Aug 11, 2015 - 12:10am PT
Loving these short Tuolumne TR's, keep 'em comin'!!!
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
  Aug 11, 2015 - 01:14am PT
BITD, the nickname for the 3rd pitch was "The Midget Undercling."
Rock Lobster climbs a lot of that big arch on the right end.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 11, 2015 - 03:00am PT
You are on a roll, thanks Ed!
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Aug 11, 2015 - 07:45am PT
Great route, I thought that 4th pitch was hard!!! Thanks for posting Ed.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 11, 2015 - 09:01am PT
Super cool. Way to get off the beaten path.
TacomaDome

Trad climber
Tacoma, WA
  Aug 11, 2015 - 12:02pm PT
Nice TR, I need to get down there.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 11, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
Nice work - as always - and nice trip report. Thanks, Ed.

John
Cancer Boy

Trad climber
Freedonia
  Aug 11, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
By Hook or By Crook to Sting's right is also a very cool (somewhat harder)route. Highly recommended - bring the guns.
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  Aug 11, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
Third pitch looks fun.
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
  Aug 12, 2015 - 11:34am PT
bump
yosguns

climber
  Aug 12, 2015 - 12:59pm PT
Thanks for the report and photos, Ed; we had a really excellent time. Those mantels on P2 don't quit!

Allyson
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  Aug 12, 2015 - 07:00pm PT
Thanks, Ed!
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Harlequin Dome - The Sting 5.10b R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Chris McNamara
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