Trip Report
The Socal Sojourn: Or how we avoided the rain (kind of)
Tuesday May 26, 2015 12:06pm
Originally we had a trip to the east side planned for this past weekend, but those plans got derailed by the deluge that's continued to bless the western states in the past few weeks. As a result we had to scrap all plans, and begin fresh. As everyone knows it never rains in southern California so once we verified hunches with NOAA forecasts, and backed that up with a wunderground references we were off for Idyllwild. Grandiose ideas of crushing stone master routes were laid, and gear piled into the rental. We were off for the legendary crucible of American freeclimbing - Tahquitz, and Suicide Rock.

Naturally Murphy's Law made sure to put us in our place.

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Credit: Grippa
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So we kicked it in town for the day, and pretty much had drinks at every bar in town. Running into a couple PCT through hikers that were zeroing we had the chance to kick it, and relax from the long drive.

We started the trip off at Suicide as it was the only crag we could see from the valley, and figured it would be the driest. Not sure if we were right, but we still had a blast.

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Credit: Grippa
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Unfortunately those are the only shots we have form Suicide. My iPhone died, and we forgot the real camera we brought in the car. All in all we ticked a bunch of good routes (Flower of High Rank, Graham Crackers, Johnny Quest, Flakes of Wrath, Jizz, The Hernia, Winter Solstice, and Insomnia were all ticked).

Following a badass day at Suicide we hoofed it up the hill to Tahquitz to sample some longer route awesomeness. We started on Dave's Deviation (pitch 1 only), tr'd Manwich to it's left). After this great start to the day we rallied up Super Pooper. Pretty neat getting over to Super Pooper from the start of the Trough. Some simul scrambling, and tree climbing mixed in with good route finding to the base.

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Dave's, The Vampire, and Super Pooper all in view.
Dave's, The Vampire, and Super Pooper all in view.
Credit: Grippa
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Looking down pitch 2 and into 1.
Looking down pitch 2 and into 1.
Credit: Grippa
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The views were MEGA.

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That final slab gave me pause...

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Arthur crushing
Arthur crushing
Credit: Grippa
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Super Good route!

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Summit selfie

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Then the mandatory basking in the alpen glow glory whilst swilling the local brews.

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So psyched we made it down there.







  Trip Report Views: 1,553
Grippa
About the Author
Grippa is a wannabe living in Salt Lake City, UT.

Comments
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 26, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
So you all were up there Sunday and Monday? (or was that Saturday and Sunday; still trying to guess what stuff is like up there whilst I am in San Diego) NICE, that the clouds broke and sweet climbing for you on both days! Looked reasonably dry the second day.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  May 26, 2015 - 12:29pm PT
TFPU
johntp

Trad climber
Punter, Little Rock
  May 26, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
Respectable tick offs. TFPU
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Author's Reply  May 26, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
skcreidc we were up there Friday-Monday. Rained all of Friday. Cleared Saturday with some heavy mist rolling through throughout the day. Sunday was super splitter.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 26, 2015 - 01:21pm PT
Nice Grippa. And THANKS.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  May 26, 2015 - 02:26pm PT
Nice work and excellent pics. I couild only imagine what you would have captured had you remembered your good camera at Suicide.

Thanks for an excellent TR.

John
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Author's Reply  May 26, 2015 - 04:12pm PT
Super chill vibes up there. Had only been up there years ago and climbed Angels Fright with some surf buds from Encinitas. Seems like runout top outs are par for the course on Tahquitz.

BTW what does Tahquitz mean?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 26, 2015 - 04:26pm PT
Thanks for another great Tr grippa !
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  May 26, 2015 - 04:30pm PT
It's a Cahuilla indian name for sure. I've heard it's a name for a Cahuilla indian spirit. Special place. I'm looking forward to spending a lot of time up there this year. Wish I had your skill and stamina, Grippa.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
  May 26, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
Nice tick list for sure. Glad you caught some good weather.

The story I always heard about Tahquitz (from the old Wilts guide) is that Tahquitch (sp?) is a demon that the Cahuilla believed lived below the rock. Supposedly, back in the day, the rock would rumble, which of course was Tahquitch stomping about in his lair. Not sure if it's still labeled as Lily Rock on the topo map.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Author's Reply  May 26, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
Thanks for the history lesson! I love hearing all about regional names/history.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 26, 2015 - 05:42pm PT
Good to "see" you Grippa!
it's kind of funny to see a guy from SLC up at Idlywild when I've already lived here for a year and a half and have yet to get up there yet! Shame on me, I have to rectify that soon.
I'm glad you salvaged the trip.
Phyl
Pie

Trad climber
So-Cal
  May 26, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
Partners wanted Thursday's and Fridays this summer
F10

Trad climber
Bishop
  May 26, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
Can't go wrong with those crags.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
  May 26, 2015 - 09:06pm PT
Thurs and Fridays are good for me, Pie. Pm me. If you don't get a response, it means the PM function isn't working.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  May 26, 2015 - 09:40pm PT
Grippa, Good call on the weekend. Tahquitz/Suicide rivals Yosemite granite IMO.

If you come down again let me know and we'll do some of nice long routes around the left side. (My favorite section.)

Go