The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
The Nose, an El Capitan Classic
Thursday July 19, 2012 7:26pm
Starting up the Nose!
Starting up the Nose!
Credit: cultureshock

The one thing that was noticeably absent from 2011 was time spent on El Capitan. This, however, was all about to change. Stein was visiting the SF bay for business and Yosemite was on the menu. The days preceding the weekend were filled with rain so free-climbing was out. We tossed around a multitude of ideas including the Nose, trying to figure out what might be “dry”. It was the first time we had considered climbing route so I didn’t think too much of it.

The weekend quickly approached and Stein was set on the Nose. I was hesitant and nervous but those are the emotions you keep to yourself. I agreed, ready to feed off of Stein’s psyche and motivation. When climbing something big, hard, or intimidating everyone gets nervous. I calmed myself in the packing and organizing, a part of these big climbs that I pride myself in.

Full Trip Report:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/06/the-nose-the-king-of-el-capitan/

Enjoy!

 Luke

  Trip Report Views: 1,513
cultureshock
About the Author
cultureshock is a trad climber from Mountain View, CA.

Comments
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briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jul 19, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
Great TR! I can't wait to get on the nose someday.....soon. It's cool you guys freed / french freed so much, i think that is the way to go. Great job!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2012 - 01:10pm PT
Good times on the Pancake Flake
Good times on the Pancake Flake
Credit: Tom Evans Photo

Photo Bump!
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Aurora Colorado
  Jul 23, 2012 - 04:22pm PT
Nose reports are always worth reading since it reminds me of my own first trip up the Cap. One thing I didnt know about, is the retaining wall on El Cap Tower. I can remember sleeping there, I barely slept at all, I was even gripped in my sleep! At one point I did fall asleep, with my nose in the corner where the ledge met the wall, the whole thing was permeated by the smell of urine. I had this dream that I was in jail, but I couldn't remember why I was there. Then it hit me ... I wasn't safe in jail, I was on a 2 foot ledge 1500 feet off the ground! Somehow I made it and of all the climbs I've done, the nose is probably the route I remember best.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jul 23, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
Nice! I don't think I'll ever tire of trip reports of the classic big walls, but yours would keep my attention in any case. Thanks much.

John
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 23, 2012 - 11:45pm PT
Sweet TR, thanks!
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El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
Photo: Mark Kroese
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
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