Trip Report
The Nose, an El Capitan Classic
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Thursday July 19, 2012 4:26pm
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The one thing that was noticeably absent from 2011 was time spent on El Capitan. This, however, was all about to change. Stein was visiting the SF bay for business and Yosemite was on the menu. The days preceding the weekend were filled with rain so free-climbing was out. We tossed around a multitude of ideas including the Nose, trying to figure out what might be “dry”. It was the first time we had considered climbing route so I didn’t think too much of it.
The weekend quickly approached and Stein was set on the Nose. I was hesitant and nervous but those are the emotions you keep to yourself. I agreed, ready to feed off of Stein’s psyche and motivation. When climbing something big, hard, or intimidating everyone gets nervous. I calmed myself in the packing and organizing, a part of these big climbs that I pride myself in.
Full Trip Report:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2012/06/the-nose-the-king-of-el-capitan/
Enjoy!
 Luke
cultureshock
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About the Author
cultureshock is a trad climber from Mountain View, CA. |
Comments
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briham89
Big Wall climber
san jose, ca
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Jul 19, 2012 - 06:26pm PT
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Great TR! I can't wait to get on the nose someday.....soon. It's cool you guys freed / french freed so much, i think that is the way to go. Great job!
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Author's Reply
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Jul 23, 2012 - 10:10am PT
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Photo Bump!
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Jul 23, 2012 - 01:22pm PT
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Nose reports are always worth reading since it reminds me of my own first trip up the Cap. One thing I didnt know about, is the retaining wall on El Cap Tower. I can remember sleeping there, I barely slept at all, I was even gripped in my sleep! At one point I did fall asleep, with my nose in the corner where the ledge met the wall, the whole thing was permeated by the smell of urine. I had this dream that I was in jail, but I couldn't remember why I was there. Then it hit me ... I wasn't safe in jail, I was on a 2 foot ledge 1500 feet off the ground! Somehow I made it and of all the climbs I've done, the nose is probably the route I remember best.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jul 23, 2012 - 01:59pm PT
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Nice! I don't think I'll ever tire of trip reports of the classic big walls, but yours would keep my attention in any case. Thanks much.
John
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Jul 23, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Sweet TR, thanks!
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The Nose—the best rock climb in the world! Photo: Mark Kroese
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