Trip Report
The Line, The Leap, The Snow
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Friday November 2, 2012 7:20pm
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So we went on Oct. 26th to climb Traveller Buttress at Lover's Leap. Turns out it snowed quite a bit earlier in the week and that climb was fairly moist. So we turned our attention to another route oft recommended by several people I respect. The Line. Now, we hadn't planned on approaching through snow, my fault, should have checked around... we were wearing Evolv Cruzers, not water proof, not snow proof, not warm... you get the idea. The normally casual approach took a bit more time than usual...
All the cold, all the snow, suffering through the wet dikes... to climb this:
Thanks,
Charles
socialclimber
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About the Author
socialclimber is a trad climber from CA. |
Comments
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jstan
climber
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Following Donini's instructions, my first comment on a TR.
If the climb was as much fun as was your TR, you had far too much fun. You are over your fun allowance.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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TFPU! Perseverance yielded a nice reward!
A day without crowds at LL
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
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I didn't know it faces that north. Good (winter) alpine torture chamber for someone. Tyforpu. Out. ~biotch
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Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
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Nice, thanks!!!!!!!
Prepping for winter!
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Looks like the CRUX, was the Approach and decent.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Way to get after it, that climb looks rad. Thanks.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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ya man!! GET SOME!! way to perservere!!
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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Rad dude..
I honestly think this is the best and purest trad line in the world.
I just love it.
Not a bolt on the route.
Cold rock up there this time of year - really sucks the heat out of your hands..lol
Awesome - you just gave me a really good psych!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Certainly not Bonatti on the Dru, but still a pretty fine whine. You two manned-up, though. You climbed with a sport climber, but not a word about climbing with A GIRL who BTW climbs 5.12? I can't even call gender bias! That shows excellent judgement/class. Beats shopping. She have a name? She deseves that credit.
I loved the themes of the cold, the uncertainty, the re-direction after the initial shut-down; the photo of the stark trail on the DESCENT (Dwain); and the last shot--that's your trump card. Best TR of the month so far, IMO. And I'm always right.
Generally, we California climbers have no concept of "winter," do you, DoDawg?
I recall the pro (call it that) off the dedk is not especially good, like #2 wire stopper or some such desperate psychological shift. Bolder starts are not easy to find at the Leap, I bet.
Edit: It is apparent that we coasties have consensus. We may or may not have winter consciousness, but we understand "we." That was nice to find out about "that girl." Hat's off. Winter's not daunting to me, particularly, as I've "done winter" enough to know I prefer balmy circumstances. But so do the crowds. It almost makes one WANT to go a-winter climbing to escape the crush, don't it?
Also, from the stand point of a Central California Climber (CCC), I never could fathom Royal's trip to Kichatna in the sixties and it's just because of my own bias towards snow, come to realize. If it can be avoided, do so. Like rappeling. Don't need to? Then avoid it or you may read about your foolishness in the newspaper in the ward. The loony bin, that is, cuz you're crazy!Don't do it, Dwain!
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T Hocking
Trad climber
Redding, Ca
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Thats one way to beat the crowds, nice work!
cold climb and cool report.
TFPU
Tad
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socialclimber
Trad climber
CA
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Author's Reply
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Nov 2, 2012 - 10:31pm PT
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Mouse,
Her name is Valerie, this past year she has done her first outdoor 5.12's at Pinnacles - Cataract Corner (.12a) and Futureshock (.12b). Last year she was the Northern Calif/Nev. Regional Champion for her age group. She is badass. I have yet to hand her a rope and draws and have her back down. Now as far as handing her a rack? Her words upon reaching the second belay were "thanks for leading".
The pro down low didn't seem bad, I kept moving to stay warm though, probably 15 to 20 feet between pieces on the first pitch, closer to 10 apart on the second.
Charles
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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The Line is a Great Route!
There is a good Dike hiking rout just to the right called,
Labor of Love, that is pretty SWEET also.
Lovers Leap is Filled with a lot of CLASSIC routes!
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Riley Wyna
Trad climber
A crack near you
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A good nut and a good TCU at the first crux.
Didn't want to test them though..
Lol
Much love to The Leap
I climbed haystack at this time of year.
Veerglass all over it
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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The first time I did The Line, it was after climbing the East Wall. My partner and I saw this guy free solo The Line. On the hike down, he caught up with us and asked me if I felt like taking a quick lap up with him. He clearly didn't need to rope up, but he knew that I did. He gave me pitch 2 and 3 and coached me through both of them. His name was Rupert Kammerlander.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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I felt myself looking at the sun down low, waiting for it to come up the wall and warm me up!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Pretty rad!
Your partner needs a new lid though. Gay!
Nice send, bruh!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Ah...can't the sun be wonderful.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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I liked The Line, but I didn't have to trudge through the snow to climb it. Nicely done.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Nice!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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You see Ron Anderson anywhere? He would have been the guy with a sled...
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David D.
Trad climber
Monterey
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Good stuff, Charles. I need to get over to Tahoe ASAP.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Ah yes!
A short, but significant "Suffer-fest" for your memories!
Thank you for sharing!
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Nice TR, glad to hear the snow didn't get the way of an excellent adventure...Val needs to start training for alpine!
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jstan
climber
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I told you all this was a good one.
But do you listen to me?
Nooooooooooooooooooooooo.
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SCseagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Ohhhhh nice TR
Susan
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E Robinson
climber
Salinas, CA
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Didn't I send you a text on Thursday when I took a photo as I drove by? Tried to get you the footware beta...
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socialclimber
Trad climber
CA
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Author's Reply
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Nov 4, 2012 - 08:08pm PT
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No text E! But then again, with my popularity these days the texts number in the thousands... kidding, sorry I missed out on Saturday!
Charles
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pvalchev
Social climber
Mountain View, CA / Calgary, AB
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Way to persevere through the snow - awesome, the photos tell the story! Good way to make sure it's not going to be crowded ;-)
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micronut
Trad climber
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Bravo. Way to get out there and get cold and wet and still have a good time.
Images of Corti on the Eiger.....
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The most striking line at The Leap. Photo: Chris McNamara
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