The Line 5.9

 
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Lover's Leap, East Wall


Lake Tahoe, California, USA


Trip Report
The Line, The Leap, The Snow
Friday November 2, 2012 10:20pm
So we went on Oct. 26th to climb Traveller Buttress at Lover's Leap. Turns out it snowed quite a bit earlier in the week and that climb was fairly moist. So we turned our attention to another route oft recommended by several people I respect. The Line. Now, we hadn't planned on approaching through snow, my fault, should have checked around... we were wearing Evolv Cruzers, not water proof, not snow proof, not warm... you get the idea. The normally casual approach took a bit more time than usual...

The Pony Express Trail, no snow removal equipment in sight...
The Pony Express Trail, no snow removal equipment in sight...
Credit: socialclimber
Evolv Cruzers, fun shoe, not for snow...
Evolv Cruzers, fun shoe, not for snow...
Credit: socialclimber
Snow...
Snow...
Credit: socialclimber
My climbing buddy, complete with nifty cap...
My climbing buddy, complete with nifty cap...
Credit: socialclimber
End of previous tracks, begin trail breaking and talus climbing...
End of previous tracks, begin trail breaking and talus climbing...
Credit: socialclimber
The Line, the only dry line, not in line with anything falling...
The Line, the only dry line, not in line with anything falling...
Credit: socialclimber
The hill over there looks warmer than this hill over here...
The hill over there looks warmer than this hill over here...
Credit: socialclimber
Not much dry ground to be had...
Not much dry ground to be had...
Credit: socialclimber
Top of pitch one, the crack was odd, the dikes were wet...
Top of pitch one, the crack was odd, the dikes were wet...
Credit: socialclimber
Looking west...
Looking west...
Credit: socialclimber
Yes, socks, I was grateful for dry socks...
Yes, socks, I was grateful for dry socks...
Credit: socialclimber
Following in fine form, even carried my shoes!
Following in fine form, even carried my shoes!
Credit: socialclimber
Trying to teach a 5.12 sport climber to crack climb in the cold is a S...
Trying to teach a 5.12 sport climber to crack climb in the cold is a Sisyphean task...
Credit: socialclimber
Don't ask...
Don't ask...
Credit: socialclimber
Sun!  I was so grateful...
Sun! I was so grateful...
Credit: socialclimber
I'm fairly sure I'm sitting in ice water, in jeans, in the shade...
I'm fairly sure I'm sitting in ice water, in jeans, in the shade...
Credit: socialclimber
Partner took the camera, roof on the last pitch...
Partner took the camera, roof on the last pitch...
Credit: socialclimber
Summit shot!
Summit shot!
Credit: socialclimber
Looking west again...
Looking west again...
Credit: socialclimber
Oh look!  Snow!
Oh look! Snow!
Credit: socialclimber
Should have brought a board... or tobagan....
Should have brought a board... or tobagan....
Credit: socialclimber

All the cold, all the snow, suffering through the wet dikes... to climb this:
Yeah, it was worth it and I would do it again...
Yeah, it was worth it and I would do it again...
Credit: socialclimber

Thanks,
Charles

  Trip Report Views: 1,479
socialclimber
About the Author
socialclimber is a trad climber from CA.

Comments
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jstan

climber
  Nov 2, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
Following Donini's instructions, my first comment on a TR.

If the climb was as much fun as was your TR, you had far too much fun. You are over your fun allowance.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Nov 2, 2012 - 10:30pm PT
TFPU! Perseverance yielded a nice reward!

A day without crowds at LL
T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
  Nov 2, 2012 - 10:49pm PT
I didn't know it faces that north. Good (winter) alpine torture chamber for someone. Tyforpu. Out. ~biotch
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Nov 2, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Nice, thanks!!!!!!!
Prepping for winter!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Nov 3, 2012 - 12:07am PT
Looks like the CRUX, was the Approach and decent.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 3, 2012 - 12:15am PT
Way to get after it, that climb looks rad. Thanks.
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Nov 3, 2012 - 12:29am PT
ya man!! GET SOME!! way to perservere!!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Nov 3, 2012 - 02:25am PT
Certainly not Bonatti on the Dru, but still a pretty fine whine. You two manned-up, though. You climbed with a sport climber, but not a word about climbing with A GIRL who BTW climbs 5.12? I can't even call gender bias! That shows excellent judgement/class. Beats shopping. She have a name? She deseves that credit.

I loved the themes of the cold, the uncertainty, the re-direction after the initial shut-down; the photo of the stark trail on the DESCENT (Dwain); and the last shot--that's your trump card. Best TR of the month so far, IMO. And I'm always right.

Generally, we California climbers have no concept of "winter," do you, DoDawg?

I recall the pro (call it that) off the dedk is not especially good, like #2 wire stopper or some such desperate psychological shift. Bolder starts are not easy to find at the Leap, I bet.

Edit: It is apparent that we coasties have consensus. We may or may not have winter consciousness, but we understand "we." That was nice to find out about "that girl." Hat's off. Winter's not daunting to me, particularly, as I've "done winter" enough to know I prefer balmy circumstances. But so do the crowds. It almost makes one WANT to go a-winter climbing to escape the crush, don't it?
Also, from the stand point of a Central California Climber (CCC), I never could fathom Royal's trip to Kichatna in the sixties and it's just because of my own bias towards snow, come to realize. If it can be avoided, do so. Like rappeling. Don't need to? Then avoid it or you may read about your foolishness in the newspaper in the ward. The loony bin, that is, cuz you're crazy!
Credit: mouse from merced
Don't do it, Dwain!
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Nov 3, 2012 - 01:14am PT
Thats one way to beat the crowds, nice work!
cold climb and cool report.
TFPU
Tad

socialclimber

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Nov 3, 2012 - 01:31am PT
Mouse,
Her name is Valerie, this past year she has done her first outdoor 5.12's at Pinnacles - Cataract Corner (.12a) and Futureshock (.12b). Last year she was the Northern Calif/Nev. Regional Champion for her age group. She is badass. I have yet to hand her a rope and draws and have her back down. Now as far as handing her a rack? Her words upon reaching the second belay were "thanks for leading".

The pro down low didn't seem bad, I kept moving to stay warm though, probably 15 to 20 feet between pieces on the first pitch, closer to 10 apart on the second.

Charles
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Nov 3, 2012 - 01:37am PT
The Line is a Great Route!
There is a good Dike hiking rout just to the right called,
Labor of Love, that is pretty SWEET also.
Lovers Leap is Filled with a lot of CLASSIC routes!
SalNichols

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
  Nov 3, 2012 - 02:17am PT
The first time I did The Line, it was after climbing the East Wall. My partner and I saw this guy free solo The Line. On the hike down, he caught up with us and asked me if I felt like taking a quick lap up with him. He clearly didn't need to rope up, but he knew that I did. He gave me pitch 2 and 3 and coached me through both of them. His name was Rupert Kammerlander.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
  Nov 3, 2012 - 03:07am PT
I felt myself looking at the sun down low, waiting for it to come up the wall and warm me up!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Nov 3, 2012 - 03:34am PT
Pretty rad!

Your partner needs a new lid though. Gay!

Nice send, bruh!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Nov 3, 2012 - 10:28am PT
Ah...can't the sun be wonderful.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Nov 3, 2012 - 10:52am PT
I liked The Line, but I didn't have to trudge through the snow to climb it. Nicely done.
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Nov 3, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
Nice!
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Nov 3, 2012 - 11:18pm PT
cool!
Zander

climber
  Nov 4, 2012 - 05:05pm PT
Sweet TR!
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
  Nov 4, 2012 - 05:37pm PT
You see Ron Anderson anywhere? He would have been the guy with a sled...
David D.

Trad climber
California
  Nov 4, 2012 - 10:09pm PT
Good stuff, Charles. I need to get over to Tahoe ASAP.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Nov 4, 2012 - 10:15pm PT
Ah yes!

A short, but significant "Suffer-fest" for your memories!

Thank you for sharing!
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
  Nov 4, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
Nice TR, glad to hear the snow didn't get the way of an excellent adventure...Val needs to start training for alpine!
jstan

climber
  Nov 4, 2012 - 10:55pm PT
I told you all this was a good one.

But do you listen to me?

Nooooooooooooooooooooooo.
SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Nov 4, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Ohhhhh nice TR


Susan
E Robinson

climber
Salinas, CA
  Nov 4, 2012 - 11:07pm PT
Didn't I send you a text on Thursday when I took a photo as I drove by? Tried to get you the footware beta...
socialclimber

climber
CA
Author's Reply  Nov 4, 2012 - 11:08pm PT
No text E! But then again, with my popularity these days the texts number in the thousands... kidding, sorry I missed out on Saturday!

Charles
Andrew Barnes

Ice climber
Albany, NY
  Nov 4, 2012 - 11:22pm PT
Nice.
pvalchev

Social climber
Truckee, CA
  Nov 5, 2012 - 02:34pm PT
Way to persevere through the snow - awesome, the photos tell the story! Good way to make sure it's not going to be crowded ;-)
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Nov 5, 2012 - 03:31pm PT
Bravo. Way to get out there and get cold and wet and still have a good time.

Images of Corti on the Eiger.....
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