Trip Report
The Fire Inside (a year in the life of a life of climbing)
Thursday May 26, 2011 9:13pm
My Mama and Papa always told me my appearance is impotent.
So I likes to introduce myself in my Sunday best
I likes to party
So they calls me party boy

I'm on the eve of another climbing adventure and I am a little sick with fever and a little scared. I have been reminising about the last year(and a bit) and the climbing road trip I have been on, and the climbing I have been able to do with my family, my daughters and with friends.
Here are some random climbing pics in a random order.

I love these words by Bob Seger

There's a hard moon risin' on the streets tonight
There's a reckless feeling in your heart as you head out tonight
Through the concrete canyons to the midtown light
Where the latest neon promises are burning bright
Past the open windows oon the darker streets
Where unseen angry voices flash and children cry
Past the phony posers with their worn out lines
The tired new money dressed to the nines
The low life dealers with their bad designs
And the dilettantes with their open minds
You're out on the town, safe in the crowd
Ready to go for the ride
Searching the eyes, looking for clues
There's no way you can hide
The fire inside
Well you've been to the clubs and the discotheques
Where they deal one another from the bottom of a deck of promises
Where the cautious loners and emotional wrecks
Do an acting stretch as a way to hide the obvious
And the lights go down and they dance real close
And for one brief instant they pretend they're safe and warm
Then the beat gets louder and the mood is gone
The darkness scatters as the lights flash on
They hold one another just a little too long
And they move apart and then move on
On to the street, on to the next
Safe in the knowledge that they tried
Faking the smile, hiding the pain
Never satisfied
The fire inside
Fire inside
Now the hour is late and he thinks you're asleep
You listen to him dress and you listen to him leave
Like you knew he would
You hear his car pull away in the street
Then you move to the door and you lock it when
He's gone for good
Then you walk to the window and stare at the moon
Riding high and lonesome through a starlit sky
And it comes to you how it all slips away
Youth and beauty are gone one day
No matter what you dream or feel or say
It ends in dust and disarray
Like wind on the plains, sand through the glass
Waves rolling in with the tide
Dreams die hard and we watch them erode
But we cannot be denied
The fire inside

This is Mount Louis- the mountain in Canada that 50 Classics missed and certainly the most classic mountain in the Banff Area and greater limestone Canadian Rockies.
The first look at Louis on the hike in for our climb.
Never a moment of boredom we were busted by a Ranger the night before, while sipping some tasty cinnamon whiskey in our bivy truck, and due to my x-brothers unfortunate legal concerns we were almost thrown in the klink.
Best thing about Louis is you can't see this Mountain from the road.

My noob X-brother-in-law sending the final "Perrin" Crack pitch with a few thousand feet of climbing spilling out below him.
We had lightening strike close enough to hurt our eyes on the first rap, and on the hike down we saw a female Wolverine.
If you climb one Mountain in the Rockies this should probably be the one.


My kids showing their support for the real locals.

Only a few minutes drive from the Great Crazy Horse monument and campus.
Soloing "The Eye" while the kids take pics and a couple hundred bikers watch.

The Needles was one of those perfect climbing days for me- manic, confident and full of energy. I soloed a dozen towers in about 4 hours.

Megs takes a pic of her Dad.
Hard core bikers counsel my children and tell them their daddy is crazy.
The irony is not lost on Megs and when I get back Megs has her first tattoo while Jenny opted for a piercing.

Thugs taking over at the Sturgis bike rally- you don't want to mess with them.

The kids below Durrance on the amazing Devil's Tower

Jenny and our first look at The Bear clawed tower.


Deep water free soloing in Thailand. This was so cool.
You climb out of the ocean on a rope ladder and up the first stalactite. You then did a slippery, no hands, 5.10 traverse to the second higher stalactite. You have to do this wild stem with the ocean 40 feet below. A few people missed the stem and cratered into the water screaming the whole way. If you make it across you climb as high as you dare and then jump. You're considered a complete pussy if you down climb so you don't "dare" to go as high as you think.
The smaller stalactite I am climbing out on in this pic was about 45 feet up - scary in the most cool way.

My Aussie climbing partner way the hell up above 50 feet. Hell no, I didn't jump this one- he was the only one in a group of about 100 climbers to nail this climb and do the jump.

Bombing off

The classic look at a stunning wall of climbing in Thailand- heaven on earth.


The town of Periche, sitting in a massive moraine, in Khumba area of Nepal. Above it sits Ama dablam and to the right is Cholatse and (can't remember the name). Everest depending on how well you are feeling is a few hours away or couple days away or a lifetime away.

The North Face of Cholatse

The little brown turd pile in front is Kala Patar; it doesn't look like much but it is about as high as Kilamanjaro and 4000 feet higher then Mount Whitney. The beautiful Mountain behind Kala Patar is Pumori and behind Pumori is Tibet.

(Had to borrow this pic cause I lost mine)

If you turn 45 degree to your right, from the above pic, you are staring at the highest Mountain in the World.
The Yellow Bands of Everest are a dramatic sight and I was able to gaze upon them for a couple hours.
I'm not sure if a route goes up into the large dihedral on the upper left but it looks like a cool line.

(borrowed this pic cause I lost two camera cards in Thailand)


The Doctor, the author, the legend, The Bloom, leading up the Prow at Paradise Forks with a head wall of ring locks awaiting.

Tim-envy on his fun 11b in Winslow Canyon, Arizona

One of the many amazing crack lines in Winslow canyon
Nature's project - Stick it 10c

Winslow Canyon

SushiFest X Winslow
A shout out to the many fine people I met at this party. I love this Arizona crew, Taru, Mike, Katherine, Deidre and many more and it was great to party and climb with many of them in Jtree again.


Rainbow Wall and The Cloud Tower

Tundlebum running the first two pitches of the Cloud Tower together.
7 pitches and every pitch is special. Some calling it one of the 4 super classic crack climbs in the States along with The Rostrum, Astroman and The Naked Edge.

Coming up the very nice 4th pitch. Super pumpy and technical stemming with bomb finger locks in the corner.

I ran together the 5th and 6th pitches. After you pull the cool roof you are looking at a headwall that sort of looks like Reeds direct with Pratt's crack sitting on top. Almost a full 70 meter pitch through the rabbit hole.

Trundlebum coming through the Rabbit Hole. Pretty messed up finish. You have to sort of dive out of the chimney through the hole. I had to back up twice as the first time I ended up with my head up my ass and the second time I some how got my foot stuck in my ear.
This part of the climb used to be 10c offwidth over the top, but at sometime in the past few years it has been nice enough to open up to a 5.7 chimney.

The final beautiful crack pitch- we went light with no water and I was about as close to bonking as I have ever been at this point. This pitch is in full on blistering sun.
Oh and don't yell "Trundle" at Trundlebum - he will think you knocking rocks off onto him...hehe


Nutjob and I had a crazy and special day talking about everything from the bright side of the moon to the dark side of women.
Thanks to my weak girlie calf we backed off Epi but still explored multiple routes and even put up our own route all in one day.
Here is the stunning Black Velvet Wall with Prince of Darkness and Dream of Wild Turkeys.


Daphne and I had a great 4 days of climbing at The Leap, Tuolomne, and in The Valley
Here is Daphne at the top of Traveler Buttress (i think)

The Line is just plain sickness. Straight up, no bolts, capped by roofs- perfect trad

What is there to say about The Cookie- perfection. Daphne and I hit the crag with no guide book and ended on random Center routes and Meat Grinder.


Nancy on her first climb ever. The former President of the ENA at the top of a possible FA at Woodfords and about to rap, for the first time, off a dead tree.


A big highlight of the last year was J-tree and the Bridwell and Flanderfests.
I'm not much for hero stuff but having dinner with Donini, Bridwell, and Stanard was very cool
A couple hundred pics and climbers alone at these parties and maybe a 100 more routes over the year.
The classic look at a Todd Gordon party.

Out of the many J-tree routes I did this year this one stands out.
Spiderman- starts with fingers then to hands then to a sort of grunt offwidth.
Really great climb that is much better then its more famous neighbour.

Arizona climbs in style.
Picking up Tim, Bloom and Mike after their commute from Flag


Probably climbed with a good hundred noobs, bad asses, and dirt bags in the last year and a half.
And met a few hundred more.
I think I am probably becoming more of a social climber- best part of climbing for me now is meeting and climbing with COOL people


My friend Jesse at Castle Rocks

My friend Amy on her second day of climbing in Black Velvet canyon


Visiting the first Battle Of The Civil War- Manasis
A family of Vampires?

The Edge of a Dream- Ship Rock NC

Trying to show off the crazy and fun roof jug haul at ShipRock in NC

The kids cranking on God's own stone
Horse Pens 40, Alabama

Welcome to T-wall bitch.
What a tour I got from Sam
Raining and dark so we climbed overhanging crack sickness by head lamp.


A big scary beeatch- The Buttermilks

Pretty lichen

My climbing partner of 10 years - Navy Seal Schaffer- and his bad ass crag dog.
Getting ready to climb at one of the golden granite San Diego crags.


I just realised I haven't seen my wide fetish shirt since this day.
Tim gave it to me for leading Dark Star.
Where be that shirt?
Nature and Radical representing Snail Eye for the Wide Guy

East Side Pratt's Crack
A great day of climbing with Mr E and Jamesf10
Later on I went back with Em and climbed Sheila's

Court Madera's South Buttress on the beautiful rock of San Diego County

The Dark Star- classic sandbag and bad gear beta- I rolled with one piece so small it wasn't worth a camel turd and one piece so big that it would only clank, clank, clank when I tried to fit it in the crack.


So many beautiful routes in Squamish
This is a 15 pitch 5.11 that MH2 and I did.

Climbing with the kids and my best friend in Squamish

My brothers wedding in the Selkirks was a chance to explore the rarely seen Valhalas


The Valhalas - Bugaboos 60 years ago

Jenny cranking

Classic crystal clean Canadian river with a hot springs right beside.

Old school hairy, before he shaved, Cosmic welcomes me to New Jack city.
Ended up climbing here many days. Cosmic is a great man and a fun partner and we had many fine days of climbing this year.

Many good times in the dirt at New Jack


Soloing something shitty but nice

The crack that jumps out at you when you see Wedding Rock.
I don't think this gets climbed much- they call it 5.7 but it has a ridiculously hard layback move because the one opposition smear is now a stick of butter.
It is a much harder move than the 5.10 right next door and I had to farm plants, ants, and pants out of that crack.

Have to represent the Nor Cal Limestone.
Doing laps on something up by Redding.


This is the Biltmore house in Ashland, NC
It was made for climbing.
The kids and I were escorted off the property - we've been kicked out of better places...pffft

Probably the first, the only and the last boulder problem in Haiti
It is even worse than it looks; I pulled out a cobbled piece of Hatian and almost got the chop.

Jenny returning to her roots, and after cranking some 5.7 to gain the summit, is a princess of the Mayan world again.

Megan climbing with the Mayan ghosts in Tikal, Guatemala

So going climbing is not easy. Here I defend myself against an attack by 5 Amazons as I attempt my climbing escape. Jenny is about to take one for her team. She was up and ready to go seconds later. And a few moments later she takes a back kick to the solarplexes and starts crying like she is still a baby or something...hehe Tougness is worth about double what smarts are in my family.

On top of one of the 5 main pyramids in Tikal with Pyramid 2 sticking out of the jungle in behind.
This is probably the most spectacular place I have ever been.

Jenny climbing out of The Blue Hole in Belize.
She hasn't seen the Komodo Dragon that is resting directly above her yet. It helped her jump a little faster though - Oh did we laugh!

Climbing and swimming a mile underground in the sick Crystal Maiden Cave in Belize.

I feel bad cause there are plenty of folks and climbing I didn't get a chance to represent.
Thanks to Em, Gene, Sonya, Skip, Blitzo, James, Anders, Mike, Nancy, locker,ekat, Dante, Laura,happy girl, dudes in Canada, Andy, Amy, Ammii, all the Sushi Festerers,hehe, and the Gordo Festerers, the entire Arizona crew, and Samantha and the south east crew, and a bunch more folks I am forgetting, for climbing with me this last year- heh man, I really appreciate it. I luv to climb.
And that Rave climbing party the night before the Flanderfest- zowzee!
And Mark Miller of course for good times in Tahoe even if it was to cold to climb rocks.

Mr E and Radical representing for the ultimate bad ass.
A great climber and a strong mind- my hero


  Trip Report Views: 8,248
Riley Wyna
About the Author
Riley Wyna is a trad climber from A crack near you.

Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 26, 2011 - 09:16pm PT
Man o man.
I sure wish I had the time and money to accompany you on your
JOURNEY, Riley!!!
Can't wait to see the pics.
this just in

north fork
  May 26, 2011 - 10:43pm PT
Some great shots Riley, look forward to more. That solo shot is sick ( the good kind)
Thanks for the tr.
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  May 26, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
Radical tr bra.


Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  May 26, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
Best, if most discontinuous, trip report ever.
this just in

north fork
  May 27, 2011 - 12:38am PT
Four response bump.

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
  May 27, 2011 - 12:57am PT
Nice variety pack.

I laughed, I cried, better than Cats.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 27, 2011 - 01:54am PT
mix and match, the best kind of road trips
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  May 27, 2011 - 02:24am PT
color me jealous" !!! NNNICE!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  May 27, 2011 - 02:29pm PT
Cool report, bro!!!

It was good to finally hang with you.

Trad climber
  May 27, 2011 - 12:04pm PT




Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  May 27, 2011 - 12:13pm PT

The kind of climbing year most of us can only dream of.

Good for you and bless your family for wanting/joining/letting you do it!!!
this just in

north fork
  May 27, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
Damn Riley this tr keeps going and going and going. Great stuff man, keep it up.

Boulder climber
  May 27, 2011 - 12:24pm PT
Appreciated TR. Love the pics and stories. More please!

  May 27, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
Nice, Riley! I am pretty sure I took a couple of those pictures...

Great to catch up with you and do some climbing! More this year!
Wade Icey

Trad climber
  May 27, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
I had to back up twice as the first time I ended up with my head up my ass and the second time I some how got my foot stuck in my ear.

classic Riley- Go Dog Go
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  May 27, 2011 - 02:54pm PT
Good on you Riely, that is a sh%T ton of climbing!

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 27, 2011 - 03:09pm PT
Riley, I really wish you would pay more attention to that work/life balance, get out and live a little more.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  May 27, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
Thank you, thank you, thank you! Fantastic trip, fantastic pictures. Best of all, your daughters are climbing.

My daughters are now adults, and still condescend to climb with me. I hope yours give you the same joy -- both in the mountains and in life -- that ours have given us.


  May 27, 2011 - 04:21pm PT
So nice! Thanks!

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
  May 27, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
Cool stuff! Where to next??
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  May 29, 2011 - 05:25pm PT
Thanks everyone
Pretty cool from the phone eh?
I just pulled pics to my phone, uploaded them with Photobucket mobile and then jumped to a bookmarked page for the full Photobucket site and dumped them on Supertopo.

I added a few more pics and tweaks

My first TR in years
I'm happy with how it turned out
I didn't have a camera for a lot of cool climbing so I'm happy I had enough pics.

Cosmic- hopefully I see ya next week brother.

John- Jenny likes to climb still but Megan has got a little lazy- hopefully I can get her motivated this summer.

Mr E- sorry brah- I wasn't done..I recognized ya..hehe

Mr. Icey- ya, head up my ass- nothing new

Crimps- El Cap- start on Zodiac tomorrow solo. Then onto Utah and Colorado for some climbing. Jackie and I are flying the kids into Denver where I will pick them up then head north after some climbing. Some wide in Wyoming with Jay and then Canada for the summer with the kids- then back to Texas for a while. Gonna live out there again...Ughh for climbing, but I don't want to be away from the kids this much anymore.

Yes Nutjob- no work for a while still...hehe

Captain...or Skully

in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  May 28, 2011 - 12:22am PT
Damn Good Shtuff. Crimpie's right, though....grins

Trad climber
  May 28, 2011 - 12:35am PT
UR one very lucky individual....

Thanks for sharing......

Great post

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  May 28, 2011 - 12:36am PT
Sunnybeaches dude!

I'm jealous too!

Great year of radness & family!

Trad climber
47N 122W
  May 28, 2011 - 12:50am PT
Get a job! ;-}

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  May 28, 2011 - 02:34am PT
Do you use a polarizer?
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  May 28, 2011 - 02:39am PT
On what Jaybro?
Where r u now?
Looking at Vood after June 12th

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  May 28, 2011 - 02:43am PT
Moab, for a few more days... See you in Vedauwoo!

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  May 28, 2011 - 02:53am PT
"Cosmic- hopefully I see ya next week brother."

As I said, Riley,
I'll be here in Vegas till the 7th of June.

I wouldn't mind doing Crimson Chrysalis wit you.


  May 28, 2011 - 09:55am PT
Go get it, Riley - you've got the head and the skills for it. Looking forward to climbing with you this year as there's never a dull moment :)


Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
  May 28, 2011 - 01:56pm PT

Any room left on your passports or is it time to add some more blank pages. Most inspiring TR ever.

Social climber
  May 28, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
hey there say, riley.... this is soooooo wonderful, seeing and hearing all this....

see, it is like the good lord made up for those "no places to climb in south texas" type situations, :))

thanks for sharing... and may the good lord keep the rest of the trip, sweet, and the travel safe and well...

god bless... thanks so very much for sharing the family stuff, as well...


*not all pics are coming in, but i did see that one of the girls and the crazy horse rock, behind them.. their cowboy, hats, too... and i did see the thailand rock-over-water...

those showed up fast...

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  May 29, 2011 - 05:29pm PT
Thanks Sonya- hopefully I see you guys before I leave.
One more sick day and I am off
Somehow got the flu or something from Jenny

Guido- inspire me

Neebee- the files are small- I'm surprised the pics came out ok because they are saved off of random Facebook file, give it a little time.
I was just home for almost 3 weeks Neebs..
I figure I can fly back out plenty as I can get a ticket to Vegas for the price of a tank of gas now and I will save money not having to pay for two residences...
The Rio valley does suck for climbing neebs. Sucks for a lot of things except my kids and wife are very settled and the schools are very good. We will see how it works out.

Social climber
Golden, CO
  May 28, 2011 - 03:33pm PT

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  May 28, 2011 - 06:45pm PT
Seemed dumb to leave out what amounts to some of the best climbing in Tahoe, The Valley and Jtree .
So I added another section.

Trad climber
  May 28, 2011 - 06:52pm PT
Good stuff Riley!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
  May 28, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
Too cool;....crush it, go for it...and live the life...good on ya....

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  May 28, 2011 - 08:56pm PT
care to trade lives?

Trad climber
Las Vegas
  May 29, 2011 - 03:20pm PT

Awesome TR!
Major thumbs up, but Ry....

You really need to get out and around a little more bradduh ;)


from out where the anecdotes roam
  May 29, 2011 - 07:59pm PT
fine stuff and congrats! maybe some folks considering a career in nursing
would make the commitment based on a link to your report
em kn0t

Trad climber
isle of wyde
  May 29, 2011 - 08:20pm PT
goodness, gracious, great balls 'o fire!

totally rad and cool, Riley

J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  May 29, 2011 - 09:56pm PT
"My Mama always told me appearance is impotent.
So I likes to introduce myself in my Sunday best
I likes to party
So they calls me party boy"

Strong opener, mate. Literary even--I'm not taking the piss out of ya either.

Epic, a leviathan of a TR.

You've got the juice, brother!

That tower-thing in Wyoming? Looks just like the sculpture I made last night out of my mashed potatoes. . . .weird.

Many thanks. Say hey if you're here at the Black.


Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  May 30, 2011 - 12:50pm PT
Thanks everyone...ya crush it fo sure- the fire inside.

Thanks for all the good times Todd

hi Em, we had some great climbing days girl!- miss ya and if they open up the pass before I leave I'm going to come and see you.

John ray-you took some good pics- we have to go back to that route again.

Jwerlin- thanks, ya I didnt know if others found it a funny opening- it makes me chuckle everytime. My main goal was the Black but I'm fighting a spring flu, or something, so time is getting short- once I am done here I will try to make a run.
Funny thing about Close Encounters is they show it every night on a big screen right in front of the Tower. Jenny was 6 and she was getting confused between reality and the movie- as she would the movie and then the tower.
Duh Duh Duh.....DUDU
Finally had to explain it wasn't a documentary...hahahahaha

Hooblie- I don't even want to think about illness or nursing, or medical stuff until I have too again- but everyone knows they can always write me about anything.

bvb- I would definitly change lives with The American Legend- no prob!

Oakland, CA
  Jun 2, 2011 - 07:02pm PT
--Tour de force--

A pile of dirt.
  Jun 2, 2011 - 09:15pm PT
Nice year and great pics - thanks!


Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Jun 2, 2011 - 09:25pm PT
Hey Riley-looks like it was a fantastic year for you, awesome places and great climbing you've done! Hope your Yosemite adventures are going well.... -Catherine of the AZ.

Trad climber
San Diego
  Jun 2, 2011 - 10:51pm PT
Nice TR brother, Wished I could have climbed more with you this year "The Live Of Riley"
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2011 - 12:11pm PT
You're the best man I know Schaff and my best friend
I'm so lucky to have such strong, honest and good people in my life.
You work 6 days a week brother!!
We did alright brah..
Those three San Diego crags were very, very sweet. The South Buttress and almost rolling the truck was a sweet a day as any.
Being late for mothers day?
Any day climbing with you is a gift old friend- we will get plenty more..

Hi Katherine- we still have to climb Ship Rock.
Or maybe come rock The Nose with Tim and I in September.

I forgot about climbing with Mimi and Steve and Jtree.
And how could I forget that cold day at Taquitz with Mike O and The Weasel !
And my short lived other brother in law Paul- good day

And the bad ass Principle from Apple Valley, very nice guy, who climbed with us at the Bridwell Fest- I forget his ST handle....
A good year!!


  Jun 5, 2011 - 10:40am PT
Going back to the cubicle on Monday will be 3X worse thanks to this very Trip report... heh heh. Good Stuff ! Thanks for sharing it!
mark miller

Social climber
  Jun 5, 2011 - 12:06pm PT
What a year, I'm envious. You're my new Hero, take care Rad.

Trad climber
the flat water trails...
  Jun 5, 2011 - 12:26pm PT
Welcome to T-wall bitch.
What a tour I got from Sam
Raining and dark so we climbed overhanging crack sickness by head lamp.

DUDE... You forgot to mention that it was freakin' SNOWING, too!

Just sayin'..!


Sounds like you and yours have had a fantastic year; I know there are many great years to come for all of you!

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2011 - 12:39pm PT
What ever Miller- you're my hero..
Heh call Law and see if he wants to climb Zodiac with me. I still have 3 days and my sh#t is still up there...
There are some pins we can knock out.

Sam- you know that day alone could encompass two TRs..
What an epic..
Thanks so much for not bailing!
Open coffin is still the sickest thing I have ever climbed.

Trad climber
  Jun 5, 2011 - 08:59pm PT

Trad climber
the flat water trails...
  Jun 5, 2011 - 09:19pm PT
Open coffin is still the sickest thing I have ever climbed.

um... try "Open Casket"!!

...just sayin'...


Trad climber
going big air to fakie
  Jun 5, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
Yep, Shiprock would be great. I WISH i could do the Nose with you and Tim. Seems that it is going to be difficult to get away from work for long periods of time for the next 1/2 year. I will be hoping that you two have an amazing time. You both climb strong and will have a blast!!!
Swami Jr.

Trad climber
Bath, NY
  Jun 5, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
thank you!
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jun 5, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
Darn Sam!
I swear I thought I had it right that time.

Katherine- ya, who knows where we will all be in a few months.
I might be starting a job where I don't get so much time off either.

The Nose with Tim must go down though!


Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jun 6, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
Another "like".

The other side of the world
  Jun 12, 2011 - 01:21am PT
Awesome year Riley...glad you are still around to tell more stories in the years to come. And thanks for introducing me to climbing!

Social climber
Sundre, Alberta, Canada
  Jun 22, 2011 - 05:11pm PT
Glad you have your mommies look Riley, can't take credit for that.
Pretty awesome achievement all year but particularly El Cap. Was at the doctors yesterday and in his office is hanging a large BW picture of El Capitan by Ansel Adams."Winter Sunrise" . I told him that my son had just spend 4 or 5 days on that granite face (proudly). We had a nice chat about it.
Just be carefull. Love Dad.

  Jun 22, 2011 - 05:16pm PT
Hey! Great to have Riley's Dad on board. Good kid you got, Gait!

Social climber
Sundre, Alberta, Canada
  Jun 22, 2011 - 05:20pm PT
Forgot to mention; love that picture of the girls...supporting the locals..perfect shot.

Social climber
Sundre, Alberta, Canada
  Jun 22, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
Thanks for the nice comment Gene. Yes, he is a good kid.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jun 22, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
Dang! None of that looked like it sucked!
Captain...or Skully

in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jun 22, 2011 - 05:49pm PT
I can dig it.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jun 27, 2011 - 01:52pm PT
Making more memories with the kids...
See ya in a few days Dad..
You need to take a drive down to the Crazy Horse Campus/ university where the statue is being built- unreal...
Everybody should see this and The Battle of Little Big Horn.

Trad climber
  Jun 27, 2011 - 02:35pm PT
Everybody should see this and The Battle of Little Big Horn.

EVERY citizen of the US should be required to go to Little Big Horn - and be encouraged to sit there, STONE QUIET, listening to the spirits on the wind.

My mind was BLOWN there!

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jun 27, 2011 - 03:14pm PT
Kathy, It is my favorite historical site by far.

The remarkable thing is the story that lead up to it.
Economic incompetence, collapse and expansion with direct analogy to today.
The US wanted the gold and the land because we had screwed up and ruined the economy- again...

Trad climber
  Jun 27, 2011 - 03:20pm PT
Interestingly, the site seems to command silence.

As I was parking to take one of the hikes, up pulled a school bus FULL of screaming brats. . . can you say BUZZKILL?

As I was about to turn around and go back to my car (to RUN AWAY, as it were) in hopes of returning at a more peaceful time, every single one of those kids STFU.

It blew me out. . . and I'm talkin' these were 10 year olds. . . they just all mellowed out and quietly sauntered along the trail. . . as if hanging on every word the spirits spoke.

Trad climber
  Jun 27, 2011 - 04:26pm PT
You're doing IT.... Don't stop

Trad climber
  Jun 27, 2011 - 05:54pm PT
OK, so yer not just an internet poser.

Cheers! Nice year.

Trad climber
  Jun 27, 2011 - 05:56pm PT
OK, so yer not just an internet poser.


Wade Icey

Trad climber
  Jun 29, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Palin/Bachman Bump
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Oct 16, 2011 - 10:16pm PT
Facebook like bump..

Kind of cool ya can do that now
J. Werlin

Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
  Oct 16, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
double bump for one of my all time favorites.

Trad climber
LA LA Land
  Oct 16, 2011 - 10:45pm PT
Wow, Riley WHAT a year! Awesome is a major understatement. Somehow I missed this before - glad you bumped it. I hope this year is even better for you & family.

  Oct 16, 2011 - 10:41pm PT
LOL I never saw this.

Riley you rock ....!!!!!
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Oct 24, 2011 - 02:28pm PT
Thanks everybody!

Glad ya saw it Werner.

I did this when I was sick before climbing El Cap.
When I honestly felt I had a good chance of dying...LOL
Never had a feeling like that on other climbs and it was something I had to overcome.
I hought I better at least leave something to be remembered by...LOL
Glad I am finally over that big wall noob, snail eye thing..
Didnt even feel a tinge of snail eye last week on Moonlight Buttress.

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Oct 24, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
So, Whadya done lately?

Congrats, Which one?
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Oct 24, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
Big wall in Zion and Redrocks last weekend and week.
Just home yesterday.
I'm on it brother!

What next?

What u up to Jay?
Hope to see u soon.

Trad climber
  Oct 24, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
it,really looks like as if you gotta feel for this climbing ,,adventure ,,thing,,,now see if you can find more people and places to do it,,,then get back to us,,,,by the way whos your travel agent?

  Oct 26, 2011 - 01:11pm PT
Has the knack to report on a lot of climbing and leave the reader feeling good, perhaps because he leaves no partner unturned.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
  Oct 26, 2011 - 01:27pm PT
My freind, you are truly living the Dream.

Boulder, CO
  Oct 26, 2011 - 01:47pm PT

now get your ass to KorFest.

Trad climber
Foster City, CA
  Oct 26, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
Just saw this, amazing pictures.

Was awesome climbing with you in JTree at the White Cliffs of Dover.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Oct 26, 2011 - 05:01pm PT
What an awesome TR. My day is going a bit better now..

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Oct 26, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
Good seeing you and Pencilenvy last week,Riley!!!
I sure wish my shoulder hadn't of been hurting. :(

photo not found
Missing photo ID#222478

Social climber
granada hills
  Oct 26, 2011 - 08:15pm PT
Awesome TR! TPFU. Love the pics.

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Oct 26, 2011 - 11:23pm PT
Did you shrink my arms and make my tummy and head bigger?

Thanks all

Nature.....sure would love too....
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Oct 26, 2011 - 11:26pm PT
James that was a bad ass day. We had pics right?
Even with all this I missed one of the best
Text me brother...we lost touch when I lost my phone
Or email..
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Oct 26, 2011 - 11:33pm PT

Big wallin and big ballin bitches!!

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Dec 21, 2011 - 11:08pm PT
TR bump night!


  Dec 27, 2011 - 02:38pm PT
Damn R W you get around!!!!!!!! You don't mess around! Thanks for sharing the goodies. Great rocks, people, and beauty. Just nice man.

Bob Jensen
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2012 - 01:38am PT
Thank you Bob
I'm really happy I did this TR
They are a pile of work
But it is almost time to do another.

Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
  Feb 25, 2012 - 03:18pm PT
Cool TR! Looks like the fun meter was definitely red-lined, woohoo

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Feb 25, 2012 - 05:27pm PT
Great tr...wonderful pics...I tried to see the Komodo but couldn't see it. That would have freaked me out!

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Feb 25, 2012 - 07:54pm PT
Thanks Guys.

Susan the Dragon is a tree root - you can see it above her. It's looks like a long tail.

We found a very large and freaky Wolf or Jumping Spider on the other side of the pool. I told Megan to put her foot beside it so we would have a way to see the relative size of the Spider. It was as big as a hand with long legs.
Well the freaking spider jumped into her foot, with lightning speed, and then jumped off again. Absolutly terrifying but the tears and fear quickly turned to laughter because it didn't bite her.
Needless to say we didnt do that again.

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Mar 2, 2012 - 09:44am PT
Wow, wow, WOW! I couldn't believe I had missed this wickedly cool TR. Then I remembered what I was doing then and decided Riley's life rocked way more. TFPU Mr Wyna, I thoroughly enjoyed this world wide, whirl wind, wander-fest. Your kids are beautiful. And you seem to climb with a bevy of beauties. No wonder you are always smiling.
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Mar 4, 2012 - 02:32am PT
Thanks Philo!
I'm very happy you liked it.
You are on the menu for this year brother - we have to climb
So glad your surgery was a success!

And pretty ladies and climbing go together like hot fudge and icecream.
Ya gotta do it!

Cheers my friend!

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
  Mar 4, 2012 - 11:42am PT
Yo Riley;
I hope I'm on the menu this year also.

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Mar 4, 2012 - 12:19pm PT
Sh#t, brother Cosmic!

You're the main course!
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Nov 6, 2012 - 01:39am PT
Bump for climbing

  Nov 6, 2012 - 02:46am PT
Oh wow Riley, that's a seriously mega TR man. Good year for sure!!
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Nov 6, 2012 - 09:25am PT

Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Dec 28, 2012 - 07:58pm PT
Thanks Guys
My heart hurts right now - no climbing here in least not where i am - i feel cranky - not in a good climbing way.

Dingus - Wish we could have hooked up last summer before i blew my arm out...Hopefully we will soon brother...

No matter how pissy or annoyed I get - climbing and climbers are in my heart.....peace to ya all!

Gonna start reading my kids Frankenstein right now - then play a few more games of Chess with them!
Then get away with them for some climbing tomorrow hopefully!!! yayaya
Riley Wyna

Trad climber
A crack near you
Author's Reply  Jan 23, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
Radical year - live it, love it, climb it!!!!!!
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