Commitment 5.9

 
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Five Open Books


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
The Commitment

by Ed H
Monday June 24, 2013 4:41pm
My new climbing partner Pierson Bourquin and I climbed The Commitment on June 14. Pierson was in town with his Shasta Mountain Guide friend Brian Anderson, so we did the route as a threesome. This was their first trip to the Valley with a climbing rack! We started the day over on the Glacier Point Apron - warming up on the Grack. Pierson got a little too warm and requested a climb in the shade. I did The Caverns (5.8) a couple of weeks prior, so thought that Five Open Books (FOB) would be a good place to escape the afternoon sun. Pierson wanted to lead 5.7, Brian wanted 5.8, and I wanted 5.9 - so Commitment here we come! P1 = 5.8, P2 = 5.7, P3 = 5.9
Brian and I at the base
Brian and I at the base
Credit: Pierson Bourquin

There was another party in front of us, so we had a little rest, racked up, and studied the topos. The party was fast, experienced and up the route and no time. When they got to the top, rocks started to rain down on us, so always where a helmet at FOB. P1 has a 5.8 move right off the deck. The move is a little tricky - polished feet and slightly awkward - Brian could not decide to jam or lieback - so he tried both and slipped back onto his pro a couple of times. I used a lieback when it was my turn. Pierson belayed Brian sporting his new gadget - belay glasses!
Pierson's new belay glasses - easy on the neck!
Pierson's new belay glasses - easy on the neck!
Credit: Ed H


P2 is a nice shady arching corner (5.7) Pierson made quick work of it but was lured to the right at the top of the pitch - by two shiny bolt anchor. If you go this way you miss the top part of the pitch and have to traverse across some mung - my advice - stay in the corner and build a trad anchor under the roof
Top of P2 with great views of falls, lost arrow, and half dome
Top of P2 with great views of falls, lost arrow, and half dome
Credit: Ed H

P3 is the business and I was stoked to be on the sharp end. I've been leading 5.8 for years and finally started to seek out 5.9 routes - esp ones that protect well and only have a few moves at the grade. Commitment fits the bill, so go get on it! I worked my way under the roof, placed a good cam and tried to figure out the committing move. The feet are a little polished, but the right hand hold is almost a jug, so I made the commitment and pulled the move. The stance on the other side is good - you can even rest against the left wall. Awesome liebacks after you get pro.
Working my way under the roof
Working my way under the roof
Credit: Pierson Bourquin
Roof pulled - getting some gear
Roof pulled - getting some gear
Credit: Pierson Bourquin
Feeling great with that piece at my waist!
Feeling great with that piece at my waist!
Credit: Pierson Bourquin
The rest of P3 is steep, fun and protects well. At the top be super careful of the loose rocks - they are every where! I made a long rope anchor on the tree so that I could lean back and watch my followers struggle - but they only had one hang dog...
I've now climbed three of the five open book climbs - got to get them all dialed in, then do them in a day! (FOBIAD)
Back in the meadow - next stop beer!
Back in the meadow - next stop beer!
Credit: Ed H

  Trip Report Views: 1,202
Ed H
About the Author
Ed H is a trad climber from Santa Rosa.

Comments
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Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Jun 24, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
great stuff

when I saw Ed H, I have to admit I thought the other Ed H. had changed his username and was bumping an old thread. :)

Texplorer

Trad climber
Sacramento
  Jun 24, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Nice TR, watch that rope going behind your leg.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Jun 24, 2013 - 05:01pm PT
Well done! Nice pics, too. Strongly agree with the advice about the helmets there. I first climbed there in 1971, and we're still a long way from trundling all the loose stuff.

John
labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
  Jun 24, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
"Nice TR, watch that rope going behind your leg."

x2!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
  Jun 24, 2013 - 09:48pm PT
great job...

this Ed H approves!

learning how to jam P1 will open a lot of things up in the Valley... practice, practice, practice!
10b4me

climber
  Jun 24, 2013 - 09:55pm PT
Great pics
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Jun 24, 2013 - 11:37pm PT
Speaking of Ed H and FOBIAD, check the other Ed H's FOBIAD trip report.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/707959/FOBIAD-Trip-Report-10-25-08

Nice climbing and cool pictures!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Jun 25, 2013 - 01:55am PT
A gloriously rewarding climb, time after time, after time, and time again.

One more time, repeat after me, Ed and Ed: "Liebacks rule!"

Jam it if you HAVE TO, or if you feel the need to practice some technique, but it's a lieback for 90% of us and goes quicker, too, because the edges are so good.

Of course, there are those who fear liebacks. I cannot for the life of me figure out why, since it's a more natural technique than jamming. With camming devices, they ought to fly by. I've always used nuts on the route and never had no pro problems.

Good call on the bolts, which are bogus. Glad you enjoyed what we used to call "Bridwell's Surprise," but which name was dropped by Mister Roper.



phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Jun 25, 2013 - 02:59am PT
A beautiful route - sounds like a great outing with friends.
Only one thing confuses me, since I use belay glasses all the time - isn't your friend just looking at the inside of da brim with that hat on?
Ed H

Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2013 - 01:07am PT
Thanks for all the kind words.

Yes I was inspired by Ed's FOBIAD trip report. I esp like his mid day rest! Any day with 12+ pitches is totally respectable!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 30, 2013 - 07:02am PT
Nice!!!
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