Skull Queen C2 5.8

 
  • Currently 3.0/5
Search
Go

Washington Column


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
Team HamMeat at it again on Rivet Que...errr... Skull Queen!
Tuesday July 23, 2013 3:12am
A few weeks ago Mickey (aka WhiteMeat) and I climbed the West Face of Leaning Tower...

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/fun-times-on-west-face-of-the-tower/t12016n.html

We baked in the heat on that wall, and after we finished we swore of walls until the fall when it cooled down...Well then a week later temps were forecast to be in the low to mid 80s. I sent Mickey a text... "Skull Queen on Thursday and Friday" and of course he was up for it. We just couldn't stay away!

Always stoked at the start!
Credit: briham89

Bikes on the first part of the approach was definitely one of my better ideas!
Credit: briham89

King snake on the approach
Credit: briham89

Me leading pitch 2...after my 3rd time up this pitch I think I'm going to take the left free variation (sub 5.11) next time.
Credit: briham89

Stuck behind a damn haulbag finishing up the pitch.
Credit: briham89

Staying stoked!
Credit: briham89

Enjoying a nice break on dinner ledge.
whitemeat
whitemeat
Credit: briham89

Me leading the Kor Roof. Man that is a fun pitch!
Credit: briham89

Credit: briham89

Shout out for another "Hudon" style anchor. Bomber and CLEAN!
Credit: briham89

Enjoying the view!
Credit: briham89

Mickey cleaning the Kor.
Credit: briham89

Infamous Column wind!!!
Credit: briham89

Dinner on dinner!!!
Credit: briham89

Credit: briham89

Dinner of champs.
Credit: briham89

Credit: briham89

Mickey heading up on pitch 6 which he linked with 7. Unless you want to get eaten alive by ants at the top of 6 LINK THESE PITCHES!!!
Credit: briham89

The wide section on pitch 7.
Credit: briham89

Cool shadows of the Column and Half Dome in the morning sun.
Credit: briham89

The c2+ section on pitch 8 was cruised by with 3 camhooks in a row!
Credit: briham89

I managed to slice the end of my finger open with a nut tool, while I was cleaning pitch 8. That thing bled a lot!
Credit: briham89

With the first aid kit back on dinner ledge we had to improvise...
Credit: briham89

Mickey cleaning pitch 9. After the steepness of the West Face before, I was top stepping all over the place on this route, which is much less steep (although technically the aid was harder). By this pitch I was in the groove of things and was stoked at how fast we were moving.
Credit: briham89

Looking up at pitch 10.
Credit: briham89

It took me a second to figure out what I had to do / where I had to go on the c2+ section, but once I found the placement it wasn't hard, just awkward. I won't spoil what to do here for anyone else...
Credit: briham89

Up higher on 10 I got to have some fun!
Credit: briham89

Including my first every hand placed beak. The thing was bomber!!!
Credit: briham89

Mickey removing an utterly useless copperhead (there was a bomber cam right below it) with a Mark Hudon made butter knife.
Credit: briham89

Looking up at pitch 11. Such a pretty crack. I wish I hadn't split my finger open because I wanted to free climb it!
Credit: briham89

If this was on the valley floor there would be a line waiting to climb it.
Credit: briham89

Mickey practicing the fine art of screwing the second haha. No worries dude I would have done the same thing!
Credit: briham89

Credit: briham89

Major stoke on top!
Credit: briham89

I wonder where the glove stops...
Credit: briham89

Victory pizza!!!
Credit: briham89

Overall we had a great time on the route. It was one of the first times we both finished a wall and weren't just totally drained, but were ready for more. I'm not sure if it was the particular route that did it, but more that we had our systems dialed and worked well together, which left us excited for more and bigger climbs to come.....speaking of that, I emailed Mickey to send me pictures for this trip report and he was on the nose so I had to wait hahaha dude is killing it!

  Trip Report Views: 872
briham89
About the Author
briham89 is a big wall and trad climber from San Jose, ca.

Comments
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 23, 2013 - 06:19am PT
Nice send! Very zippy. Some sweet looking cracks up there.
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 23, 2013 - 09:01am PT
FanFrikkenTastic!

TFPU!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Jul 23, 2013 - 09:27am PT
Nice! Thanks for the TR.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Jul 23, 2013 - 09:39am PT
Does Mickey have a job?
Seems all he does is climb.
Get a job punk!
Seriously though,
Glad you kids had fun!
TFPU
Tad
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jul 23, 2013 - 09:44am PT
White MEAT!!!!!!!!!111111111111


DMT
Gunkie

Trad climber
East Coast US
  Jul 23, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Well done. You're helping to keep the stoke alive out here in hot, rainy, SE PA.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jul 23, 2013 - 10:06am PT
It's so cool to see you guys getting after and killing these routes!

Thanks for the clean up effort!
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
  Jul 23, 2013 - 10:55am PT
Yeah he's got a job, "Student"...the best job I ever left.

Nice going, men. Looks like a fun time.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:03am PT
Yeeeah Boyeeez!

Super proud of you guys. Yall should do shoulder stands.....you're like 12'8 stacked on top of eachother! What are you each? Like 6'3"?

SCseagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:37am PT
Man you guys are sumthing! And still wanting to crush after finishing a wall...gawd, I love youth! I sure miss it!
Brian, come home sometime, I need bike work!

Susan
whitemeat

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
  Jul 23, 2013 - 11:47am PT
micro nut:

well im 6'4"!

I dont have a job because no one wants to hire me!
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
  Jul 23, 2013 - 12:51pm PT
Too much fun. TFPU
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 23, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
MINI MARK! Well done laddy well done.. Yur a credit to your generation .
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
  Jul 23, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Nice one Brian!! Killing it these days buddy!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jul 23, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
Very cool!

On P11 I took the crack to the left up through the overhang.

Looks like you took the steeper and what I thought to be 'Harder' more direct up the corner.

Bravo.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
  Jul 23, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
Glad you finished the route TO THE TOP. You're both doing great (for two so young) with your sense of style.

For those reading this, I talked with Briham about whether they considered stopping one pitch from the top - for an easier rappel. The reply I got back was an almost indignant "no." They climbed to where they could walk off (just as they have on their other walls). Very, very proud of you.
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2013 - 05:42pm PT
Thanks everyone for the kind words!

Thanks Brad, I had good mentoring from "someone" when I started this wall business...

Susan I'm home! And working on bikes like a madman at the moment before I leave on Sunday for a month long adventure. Call or email me!

Hahaha Micronut, I think Mickey and I will never need a cheat stick, seeing as how we are both 6'4". Now I have to learn how to balance him on my arms above my head and we could probably skip half a pitch! Haha

El cap awaits in September after I get back, although I'm bummed Mickey will be back in school :( I'm thinking he will play some hooky, but I don't want to get him in trouble!

If anyone is interested in a September wall PM me!
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report
Go
Washington Column - Skull Queen C2 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
Skull Queen.
Photo: Chris McNamara
Other Routes on Washington Column
Washington Column - South Face C1 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
South Face, C1 5.8
Washington Column
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The South Face of Washington Column.
Washington Column - Astroman 5.11c - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Astroman, 5.11c
Washington Column
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Astroman takes a brilliant steep and clean line.
Washington Column - Prow C2F 5.6 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Prow, C2F 5.6
Washington Column
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The line follows a series of small features.
Washington Column - Re-animator A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Re-animator, A3 5.8
Washington Column
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

The steepest route on the Column.
Washington Column - Ten Day's After A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
Ten Day's After, A3 5.8
Washington Column
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

A series of steep corners lead to an exposed face.
More routes on Washington Column