Trip Report
Tajikistan 2
Monday July 18, 2011 6:34pm
These two peaks came into view.
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
The next day the whole crew made the trek up to a lovely meadow at 12,000 feet for a little first ascenting. We were the first climbers to visit, the Russians who had been in Tajikistan for 60 years, had opted for the big, snow peaks in the main range.
Bo and I had dibs and picked the highest of the rocky peaks.
Credit: donini
Jen, Chris and Mikey opted for a triangular shaped tower and Jessie and Darren set their sights on a peak just to the right of ours.
Everyone bagged summits except for Bo and me, our project was a little more than we had expected. From the camp at 12,000ft we had an arduous 2,000ft. aproach up a loose, steep gulley followed by 600 vertical feet of third classing. We then climbed 4 fun pitches only to find that we had a lot of climbing ahead of us and not enough daylight left. After a career of cold, miserable, unplanned bivys I opted to go down and come back with a new strategy.
The others had found easier lines up their climbs with only a couple of fifth class pitches.
Clearly, that would not be the case for us.
We moved our camp from 12 to 14,000 ft. and were determined to get an early start.

We left camp at 6;30, not quite as early as planned, and embarked on what would be 12 pitches of Sierra type climbing. Tricky route finding, good rock on steep sections but some debris on ledges and a couple of raps from towers that would have to be reversed on the descent- the Sierras on steroids.
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
After every headwall another one would come into play. Finally at 4:00 PM, the ground around us dropped away and we found ourselves on the summit.
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
The view from the previously unclimbed 16,000 ft summit made the day.
Credit: donini
The descent required the usual raps but also a couple of fifth class pitches and was a little
time consuming.
Credit: donini

We got back to camp a half an hour after dark. 14.5 hours, 14 total pitches and 2000 vertical feet of climbing up to 5.10 with 20 ft. of A1- a great day!

Before leaving to go back to Dushanbe we had an opportunity to go to a Saturday bazaar in Afghanistan.
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Credit: donini
Chris and Jen with booty.
Credit: donini

After another arduous 15 hour drive we were treated to a Summer evening in Dushanbe before the flight home.
Credit: donini
Credit: donini

  Trip Report Views: 2,435
donini
About the Author
donini is a trad climber from Ouray, Colorado.

Comments
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Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
  Jul 18, 2011 - 06:39pm PT
Cheers!

DMT
karodrinker

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jul 18, 2011 - 06:40pm PT
Yeah! Dude you rocked it. Thank you so much for sharing your experience. That's it im going to the sierras this weekend.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  Jul 18, 2011 - 06:42pm PT
What the hell is this? Some kind of climbing site or something?

Where is the politics?
Where are the flame wars?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 18, 2011 - 06:48pm PT
Adventure, scenery, virgin peaks, and it even looks like it was fun! Oh yeah!
jahil

Social climber
London, Paris, WV & CA
  Jul 18, 2011 - 06:56pm PT
I travelled a little in Central Asia when I was a kid, and there was so much rock - I keep dreaming of going back - thank you for keeping that obsession alive !
Afghanistan was always one of my favorite places (this was before the Soviet invasion) so good to see people going back there again.

steve
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:00pm PT
virgin summies NICE!!! TFPU!
BASE104

Social climber
An Oil Field
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:09pm PT
Here we go. Been waiting on this one. Excellent.

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:10pm PT
Super Jim putting up real TRs. NOW WE'RE GETTING SOMEWHERE!!!!!!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:26pm PT
Looks like fun, Jim. Nice of 'em to break out the good Pamir rock for
yous. Where they been keeping that stuff?

Hey, is my plane still at the airport?
Credit: Reilly
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:50pm PT
Gagner

climber
Boulder
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:54pm PT
That looked awesome Jim - way to go!!

Paul
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  Jul 18, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
Wow, my first instinct would have been to pick something that looked more spiky if not as high, but it seems like you struck gold! Tallest in the area plus awesome accessible climbing. Nice!

And overall cultural experience looks great too. That waterfall setup in the garden is beautiful.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 18, 2011 - 08:57pm PT
Feed me some lies!!! About the last pitch!!

Manteling on sand!!!
AKTrad

Mountain climber
AK
  Jul 18, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
'The Sierras on steroids': loved that. Really fine summit photos. The Bazaar shots are beautiful. Hope you came home with some finery for the up-coming parties.
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Jul 18, 2011 - 09:45pm PT
This is truely inspirational stuff.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 18, 2011 - 09:57pm PT
Pretty darn good climbing for an old fart. Glad you survived and shared the story.

Duede!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
  Jul 18, 2011 - 10:54pm PT

Jim, we really, REALLY, REALLY want a slide show at Neptune's,
THIS YEAR, please??????
couchmaster

climber
  Jul 19, 2011 - 10:46pm PT
Nice jim! Looked like the sierras....16,000 feet high....nope, not the Sierras as it's too high "like" the sierras only. Looks like a good trip as there is no bloody diarrhea or puking like normal. Got any more photos of the people and the culture? Pretty remote spot. Love to see them.
jogill

climber
Colorado
  Jul 18, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Very entertaining . . . nice job
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jul 18, 2011 - 11:50pm PT
thanks Jim, I'm loving the beautiful granite!!!!
Tami

Social climber
Canada
  Jul 18, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
Terrific tr - leaving us wanting a little bit more of course.

A question tho' - I noticed Jen ( ? ) doesn't have her head covered. How did the locals view this or was it okay & fine ? I ask c'os when I traveled in E Africa 25 yrs ago, we felt it prudent ( I was traveling with a girlfriend ) to keep our heads covered.

gf

climber
  Jul 18, 2011 - 11:54pm PT
Good one captain
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Jul 19, 2011 - 12:12am PT
Been looking forward to this TR since before you left.

It definitely delivers! Wow :)

What more can you ask for than a 12 pitch (14 actual) FA on an untouched granite peak?

Thanks for posting!
rhyang

climber
SJC
  Jul 19, 2011 - 12:26am PT
Awesome !
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
  Jul 19, 2011 - 12:41am PT
cool as hell trip report Jim, thanks. The topo in full glory.
x15x15

climber
  Jul 19, 2011 - 01:25am PT
very cool...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 19, 2011 - 01:29am PT
Great story and photos, although they are too small.

Try resizing your photos to 700 pixels wide or even 900 pixels wide, so half-blind guys like me can see them better.

TFPU.
pc

climber
  Jul 19, 2011 - 02:15am PT
Great adventure!!! Thanks for sharing.
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Jul 19, 2011 - 02:42am PT
Hey, there's more. Another TajikTR. Excellent. Thanks for the glimpse.
Awesome Mountain. Oh, yeah, TFPU!, too.
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Jul 19, 2011 - 03:48am PT
Too wickedly cool.
I've decided I want to be Donini when I grow up.
Cheers Jim you impress the hell out of me. Always have always will.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Jul 19, 2011 - 04:32am PT
This is fun and shows what those SCARY places are generally like. I love the psychedelic Hijab on market day. Congats on success at climbing anything while everything else is going on.
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Jul 19, 2011 - 07:01am PT
Hey Jim,

Great TR! Nice to bag a new route and summit at an "advanced age".

I'll call you this weekend.
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
  Jul 19, 2011 - 08:01am PT
Nice looking rock!
frog-e

Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
  Jul 19, 2011 - 09:17am PT
Great stuff donini!
Glad you had an awesome trip.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Author's Reply  Jul 19, 2011 - 10:45am PT
I'm a rookie, next time I'll make the pictures bigger.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Jul 19, 2011 - 11:23am PT
Load them onto Photobucket and you can keep them large.

But the real question is, did you pass anyone? HA!!
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
  Jul 19, 2011 - 03:08pm PT
More please!
this just in

climber
north fork
  Jul 19, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
Classic TR. That's some cool looking geography over there, thanks for bringing it here.
Prod

Trad climber
  Jul 19, 2011 - 03:40pm PT
Pretty fun TR Jim.

Prod.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Author's Reply  Jul 19, 2011 - 08:42pm PT
I'll make the photos larger next time but if you all had Ipads it wouldn't be a problem.
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 19, 2011 - 09:23pm PT
TOTALLY RAD!

TFPU!
Zander

climber
  Jul 20, 2011 - 12:14am PT
Part two is cool too,
Z
philo

Trad climber
Is that the light at the end of the tunnel or a tr
  Jul 20, 2011 - 12:52am PT
I'll make the photos larger next time but if you all had Ipads it wouldn't be a problem.

Except, then my not having an ipad would be the problem.
Way to make it our faults Jim. ha.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  May 11, 2014 - 10:25am PT
Donini's TR's are the best and keeps the Taco classy
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