Trip Report
Tahquitz & Suicide fun (Photo TR)
Thursday September 20, 2012 8:41pm

















Etude last remaining pin is bomber,but use an oval or tie off short to avoid leverage.




























  Trip Report Views: 2,368
Johnny K.
About the Author
Aaron R.,Cam & Johnny K. are from Southern California

Comments
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Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Sep 20, 2012 - 09:18pm PT
So thank you FOPTU!
pile

Mountain climber
Lone Pine CA
  Sep 20, 2012 - 09:33pm PT
Nice pictures, it is a special place....We ran into you guys, Thanks for letting the birthday girl jump on The Pirate ahead of you guys, very classy. See ya up there another time
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 20, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
Very nice, SCARY about the broken beaner!
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Sep 20, 2012 - 11:14pm PT


What's the first wide route?
(you can tell I'm not from around there).
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
  Sep 20, 2012 - 11:17pm PT



F*#K this hold.


That bitch is SHARP. lol.
Skeptimistic

Mountain climber
La Mancha
  Sep 20, 2012 - 11:28pm PT
very jealous now.

just brilliant! Please do that again.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Sep 21, 2012 - 01:23am PT
yesh
MisterE

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
  Sep 21, 2012 - 01:27am PT
Pictures worth a thousand words - thanks.
Johnny K.

climber
Author's Reply  Sep 21, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
Pile,our pleasure,np.Nice to meet yall up there.

Darwin,the long climb.

Gdavis,my sentiments exactly lol
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
  Sep 21, 2012 - 01:54pm PT
Nice....
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
  Sep 21, 2012 - 03:37pm PT
Bump for Idyllwild. It's been a great summer up there.

Looks like you guys got to climb a lot of great stuff.

Me and MrE on Serpentine

Serpentine
Serpentine
Credit: justthemaid
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Sep 22, 2012 - 12:11am PT
Long (Wong) Climb, Flower, Etude?, Johnny Quest, Godzillas, Pirate, Bat Crack, Vampire. I missed a couple.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Sep 22, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
Nicely done! Some good ones there.
Thanks for taking us along for the ride.

The closeup of the edge is from what climb?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
  Sep 22, 2012 - 01:44pm PT
Nice TR.

So whats the story with the biner???

THX
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
  Sep 22, 2012 - 03:25pm PT
That pic of the crack in the flare is killin' me, what is it? I know I should know.
Kenygl

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
  Sep 22, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Kick butt thread. I really miss Tahquitz.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Sep 22, 2012 - 03:49pm PT
You had me on the first shot with that compact granite. Miss the feel of things so smooth, like Baby's Butt, perfectly named.

Keep 'em guessing, No-Names!!! +1.5 for Just Pix. Refreshing.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
  Sep 22, 2012 - 07:42pm PT
That pic of the crack in the flare is killin' me, what is it? I know I should know.

I'd guess Insomnia.
Enthusiast

Sport climber
Port Townsend WA
  Sep 22, 2012 - 08:21pm PT
Looks like a great trip, but how did the 'biner break?
Johnny K.

climber
Author's Reply  Sep 22, 2012 - 10:06pm PT
That is Insomnia,what an amazing climb.

Booty report(Booty which I was not able to retrieve should still be up there unless someone went on a booty hunt this past weekend):
1x c4 #3 on wong climb in mummy crack
1x Tcu on johnny quest crux
2x medium/large stoppers on insomnia (1 in flare,1 in top arch)
1x c4.3 on the vampire 3rd pitch



The carabiner broke because it managed to leverage itself the wrong way against the pin during a fall on etude.

Partner cruises up to to the pin,clips pin with quick draw,climbs above pin,whips on the pin,stops for a mili-second ,then metal ejects into the air and he goes for another ride onto a red c3 below ,that was backing up the pin.He thought the rope broke/cut when the biner snapped,I thought the pin broke.He comes to a stop finally,I ask if he is ok,he hoots and laughs it up,happy as can be,places some more green and red c3's and finishes it up.I follow,assess the pin and what could have caused the incident.

After looking at the biner and the pins position,we came to the conclusion that the biner just got leveraged at a bad angle,it probably didnt help that the biner had a taper to it. The pin itself is bomber and the climb is safe.Sometimes odd things happen,just how the cards are dealt,ironically the biner is from spain and is stamped "lucky".The biner was in good use,rated to spec and seen falls with no issues before.

Always back up pins and if it can be done,clip pins with ovals or tie off short to avoid unwanted leverage.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
  Sep 22, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
Got to get back there, awesome reminder of just how great the stone is in Idywild.
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
  Sep 22, 2012 - 11:25pm PT
Thanks man.
Invoked wonderful memories from a wonderful place.
tje

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Oct 8, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Assuming he clipped it from the top? I always clip pins from the bottom with standard QD's, they seem to sit way better. I took a number of whips off the second-to-last pin on Etude and had no damage issues beyond what a standard bolt hanger would have done.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Oct 8, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
I watched M Reardon dyno past that mean hold on Vampire p2 as I was part way up the Bat Crack. Seemed easy, I thought, I'll try that on my lead too. Rrrrright.

I think the first time the Vampire was freed Long had that pitch and he dyno'd as well, didn't he? Always seek confirmation of this, not sure though.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
  Oct 8, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
I think the first time the Vampire was freed Long had that pitch and he dyno'd as well, didn't he? Always seek confirmation of this, not sure though.

Rick Accomazzo lead the 2nd pitch -- and dyno'd for the flake.
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