Crimson Chrysalis 5.8

 
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Cloud Tower


Red Rocks, Nevada USA


Trip Report
TR: Red Rocks, Crimson Chrysalis
Sunday October 4, 2009 10:30pm

Sooze and Billy at a belay....
Sooze and Billy at a belay....
Credit: Russ Walling


From a short while ago. This is climbing related, so just move along, nothing to see here if you are a Pinko looking for a Polly-thread.

http://fishproducts.com/crimson/index.html

  Trip Report Views: 1,118
Russ Walling
About the Author
Russ Walling is a gym climber from Poofter's Froth, Wyoming.

Comments
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Blinny

Trad climber
I'mNotBlanchard!
  May 18, 2006 - 12:24pm PT
GOOD ONE!

I especially like the obit shots!

YOU CRACK ME UP!

:-)

EKat
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  May 18, 2006 - 12:56pm PT
Your obit had a nice view of the Brownstone Wall (speaking of looong approachs).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
  May 18, 2006 - 01:42pm PT
brownstone wall has a good climb, right side of the hourglass or some such title. 10+ thin corner on good rock.

it is a long approach; we did the return trip under a full moon.

nice TR mussy.
pretty risky going up there with so few beers IMHO.

love,
your pinko buddy,
tarbousier.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
  May 18, 2006 - 01:51pm PT
We did Brownstone in February with a late start. Topped out at dusk only to find that the descent was iced over (we were in rock shoes).

epic #347
ricardo

Gym climber
San Francisco, CA
  May 18, 2006 - 02:31pm PT
russ ..

KickAss -- rappelling that with no lamps ..
Bovine

Trad climber
USA
  May 18, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
Holy Crap Russ, you have some mad writing skills, drinking skills, and rappelling skills to say the least.

Heck, last time I was on that fun route, babe from canada in-tow, having a great time (but no beers to quench my thirst), She hits me with this "attutude" like she's not having any fun on her first multi pitcher. Next thing you know it's "Can we do something Hard? This is boring". So we rap the route and hike back to camp. I sent her off to those short sport routes on the other side of the loop and proceeded to hook up with a nice american girly who was perfectly happy with the long ones...
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  May 18, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
Bovine states: proceeded to hook up with a nice american girly who was perfectly happy with the long ones...

I've heard size matters... good on ya!
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
  May 18, 2006 - 05:27pm PT
Mirrorworld:

I was in Yos and looking for a ride out towards Utah.
I met a cool English dude in C4 who had some planned romance rendezvous go sour: he had a car and so he was open for heading out to Utah. He was in the US teaching outdoor skills and was very into outdoor leadership and was well suited to his chosen career path. He’s a super nice guy, we hung out a fair amount in the evenings but actually did only one climb in Yos, the Grack. He was a relatively new leader, cautious and very slow climber, but no matter.
We stopped at Red Rocks on the way to Utah. Our late morning start wasn’t super early, but when we drove into the loop he told the ranger that we would not be out after dark, so we wouldn’t need the optional parking permit. BTW, his car was a little Camry he kept stashed in the Pacific Northwest and it sported NO updated registration sticker on the license plate so we were always creeping around avoiding the fuzz.
Man, Red Rocks is beautiful! Sometime during the approach to CC, my man had to lay some cable so I told him I’d meet him at the base. I ‘m an artist and found myself in a realm that I had only envisioned in dreams and actively pursued in my drawings, but here it was in real life…very freaky! My artistic pursuit of the last few years seemed to be laid before me in the rock as I walked! I was in ecstasy… each rock was another variation on the theme with a new unexpected twist … orange ice cream sundae swirls… burnt toast crawling up the walls … stacks of colored paper laminated together then smoothed into a 3D ball … smoothness, spots, textures, colors(!)… I started following a drainage marveling at the beauty of the place. OK, I realized I was learning a tremendous amount artistically and visually on this hike so I figured I’d keep it going taking in as much rock beauty and inspiration as possible and all the while work my way over to the base of the climb. Thing is, the beauty was winning out and directing my coarse like a strong silent wind. After some time I realized the dual-purposed hike was a nice plan, but the terrain wasn’t cooperating … I was climbing over huge boulders and highball funk in a dead-ended gully. I backtracked and made it to the base of the climb shortly after my cable-laying companion.
My partner had wanted to use his relatively new double ropes and I had no problem with that. The climbing was super sweet but yeah, what’s the deal with all those bolts? They made no sense to me next to perfect cracks. When it came time to put my partner on belay, I saw he was leading very slowly. I realized then and there that he was a VERY cautious and slow leader and that his stated assessment of what he was comfortable leading didn’t factor in this cautiousness. So progress was slow. I decided that I’d be supportive and let him work it out, no pressures, and I’d enjoy the scenery. The day burned on. As we climbed higher I noticed he was cleaning the pitches very casually also, dragging ass and not really getting into a groove … initially I thought he would warm up to it but I came to understand that he was just a slow climber. We were 2 or 3 pitches from the top and imperceptibly the sun had started dropping in the sky. I realized that we still had to get to the top of this thing, get off, and hike out so I told him (remember, he was making a career out of outdoor leadership) from here on out I was going to do all the leading and would be speed climbing (as best I could manage it) and that he would just need to pay me out slack and when I put him on belay, he’d have to get the belay broken down ASAP and pretty much run up the pitches … basically that we needed to HAUL ASS! It was a good plan, but unfortunately, here too, he was slow and I found myself waiting long periods while he removed and racked gear and also climbed. I knew he was doing his best but I could see we were going to get benighted and we had no headlamps. I pulled over the top just as the last threads of dusk were still in the sky ... Vegas illuminated in the near distance was a perfect compliment to the natural visuals on the approach. Small consolation. By the time we threw the ropes for the first rap it was dark. To compound things the ropes he had were ‘new’ Black Diamond 9s but they were the most inflexible ropes I’ve ever used. The next day, hanging out in a parking lot near Vegas with another camper from Red Rocks (a chick who owned a climbing store btw) I took out his rope … it retained its shape in a coiled loop: you could lift it, throw it to the ground, no matter, the coil never collapsed: it was as if the rope were made of some sort of wire. You could also hold a couple feet or so of rope out horizontally and it would remain horizontal, gravity wouldn’t influence it to droop towards the ground!! The chick said he should return to Black Diamond that she had never seen a garbage wire-like rope like his, but he defended it arguing that it was new!
…. Backwards in time: so now I’ve thrown the ropes off for rappel. That fuçking rope got caught on every possible chicken head on the wall! This was truly epic. And trying to get it off the chicken heads was an epic in itself. I found myself in the worst rapping nightmare of my life, I was apprehensive to let any rope down for fear of it getting caught, so I rapped with the coils of rope on me and paid out as I lowered. Pulling the raps was like Russian Roulette with 4 chambers loaded. The wind was picking up and I get cold fast so that added to the spice. Every rap was a total nightmare and like Vegas, a crapshoot. Eventually we touched the ground. Since he had taken the ‘actual’ approach to the base, he led the descent out. Somewhere he lost the path and we ended up walking I do not know how long … and ended up in another canyon different than the one we started with and at what hour I do not know (mind you this was a beerless day)...nor do I want to know. After another long walk along the road we were at the car. The capper: it was ticketed for illegal after hours parking and also for having out of date registration!
Crimson Chrysalis: a stellar climb and ...and an action packed day!
eastsidedirtbag@hotmail.com

climber
Mammoth Lakes,CA
  May 18, 2006 - 05:41pm PT
Russ, I am holding your 8.5 inch log pro that I fleeced off Pratt's Crack hostage. You want it back, or should I re-fix it on another eastside classic?

Pete
eastsidedirtbag@hotmail.com

climber
Mammoth Lakes,CA
  May 18, 2006 - 05:41pm PT
Russ, I am holding your 8.5 inch log pro that I fleeced off Pratt's Crack hostage. You want it back, or should I re-fix it on another eastside classic?

Pete
Lovegasoline

Trad climber
Brooklyn, NY
  May 18, 2006 - 05:43pm PT
An interesting speed climbing experiment would be to lower an OE on a 5mil cord, a yard or two above Bill, and see how fast you could 'pull' him up a climb.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  May 18, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
Hey Pete!

Hold onto that thing! It is a classic. Made from Black Locust from Marty Lewis's house. I remember placing the thing for some photo shoot that Chez had going with Patagonia... testing some new pants or something. Had two of them and beat that one in with the other one. Figured they would last a while... but noooooooo.... What's his nuts (that puker... uh... errr.... Huckaby! ) is rapping down from some other route ( I guess with you? ) and pinches the thing like the next day! No idea where the other one is... a 10.25" one.

Post a pic if you can...
zardoz

Trad climber
Denver, Colorado
  May 18, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
Susan is way hot, even whilst dead.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Author's Reply  Jan 29, 2007 - 02:14pm PT
Shameless bump of fake OT climbing trip report with pics!!!!!

(just 'cause I like the pics of Billy with the beer)
L

climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
  Jan 29, 2007 - 02:31pm PT
Russ--I was sweatin' like trailer trash in Wonder Valley just reading your fake TR w/ fake photos! Man, you are The Master of StoryEmbellishment (sorry Largo, but the Fish packs way more improbability into his prose). More Russ! More!
stich

Trad climber
Colorado Springs, Colorado
  Jan 29, 2007 - 11:27pm PT
Susan is even hotter now that she is dead a full year.

Nice TR again. I looked over at that line from Birdland over Thanksgiving. Must do eeeet!
Jingy

climber
Somewhere out there
  Jan 29, 2007 - 11:39pm PT
Are there any photos of Billy without a beer in his hand?
Don't actually know the answer to this one, just curious.

Where were you when those giant needles were being pulled out of your leg? On the dining room table? Really?

On the table?

Wow!!!


Nice TR again. Loved it like it was my own... 'cept different! And way better.
Mimi

climber
  Jan 29, 2007 - 11:49pm PT
Thanks for that bump and the laughs.
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Cloud Tower - Crimson Chrysalis 5.8 - Red Rocks, Nevada USA. Click to Enlarge
The classic Crimson Chrysalis ascends beautiful Cloud Tower.
Photo: Sarah Felchlin