Trip Report
TR 2011-02 Parkline Slabs
Sunday April 3, 2011 2:51am
I promised this TR soon after we did it, then life got in the way...

Our typical valley trip is a late night drive, not enough sleep, pre-dawn start, and charge til we drop or we reach the cars some time long after dark. So we decided to shake it up a bit.

Bright and early start from Berkeley, coming up the Highway 140 approach. For morning drives, I like that route.





We knew we were just sneaking in a simple lower valley cragging day between storms, but this still gave us some pause. On the 140 approach!





I just love the mix of firey orange slate, gray slate, brilliant spring greens, and whatnot. I didn't get a picture of much of that, but I did manage to snap some choss:


and trees


and water


Note the snowline... kinda seems like the foothills of the Alps?


And our destination for the day comes into view:






From the earlier (less desirable) parking spot if the main spot is full:


This cool thing on the Eagle's Aerie is an eye-catcher:


And it would be beautiful to hang out there even if there was no climbing:


OK, time to commit to the grueling 5 minute approach:


Didn't need to check the guidebook to pick Parkline Pinnacle as our first general area, and didn't need the guidebook to select our first line:


Stone Quest is an ecstatic and moderate crack and face climb. Maybe not good for the burgeoning 5.7/5.8 leader because of some mild face run-outs on easier terrain, but it's casual and super fun for folks solid at the grade. Along with the really enjoyable climbing is a great line and pretty view:















The route continues on up from the top of the pillar, and we almost gambled for glory (we hadn't checked the guidebook and weren't sure what we were getting into), but we opted instead for a sporty day clipping bolts near the ground. I'll be back at some point to explore the upper reaches.



For now, we surrendered it to this little guy and a much bigger eagle that I didn't get a picture of:


Back on the ground, we took some face climbing lessons on a few routes along the base of Parkline Pinnacle:




This guy already has it wired:


So I had boasted that while others were seeking shelter in PGSF because of winter weather, we were out shirtless and stealing peaches. Here's proof, at the top of something that was skeery run-out (belayer was ready to jump off a little cliff so leader didn't pancake while clipping 2nd or 3rd bolts from the ground):


More proof:


Getting all delicate with the footwork whilst creating even more proof:


And willing those smears to hold still:


We couldn't stop grinning at the great climbing and great weather in the midst of cold snaps and monster snow dumps. Maybe there is a life lesson in here, about looking for the half full part of the cup rather than settling for the half empty part.


After the ultimate focus of leading that thing, it was fun to go back on top-rope and have it be just a cool climb. I expected to cruise up it, but I found myself pumping not in the typical claw/crimp muscles but in upper arms and back from pushing so hard on small stuff to make it stick.


Normally I laugh (in my head at least) at folks in the gym who prance around with their shirts off. It's like a PBS nature special on mating rituals. But it just so happened that I was indeed too sexy for my shirt that day. The sun and wind feels good on my skin. It was a pretty new experience for me.




I really really enjoy sunsets from any spot in the valley. It seems that the lower valley is an especially nice place for them in the winter time.




The rock seems to directly radiate it's beauty in answer to the parting rays of light:


And the cover shot for our own branded climbing porn calendar:
Yosemite Winter - Too Sexy For Our Shirts
Yosemite Winter - Too Sexy For Our Shirts
Credit: nutjob

And then the day was fast drawing to a close, but le_bruce still snuck in another one on toprope:








Two fools who don't believe winter is an excuse to stop climbing:


  Trip Report Views: 3,296
nutjob
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

Some people call me the space cowboy yeah
Some call me the gangster of love
Some people call me Maurice
'Cause I speak of the pompetous of love

Comments
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Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Apr 3, 2011 - 03:05am PT
Me likey!
wildone

climber
EP
  Apr 3, 2011 - 04:53am PT
Having grown up in Midpines/Bootjack, I'll always have a special place in my heart for 140. I love that road. Thanks for posting! Parkline slab is tha shit!
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  Apr 3, 2011 - 10:56am PT
Great TR...fantastic photos...thanks for sharing!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Apr 3, 2011 - 11:24am PT
Nice reporting.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Apr 3, 2011 - 12:32pm PT
Awesome TR, slaberiffic!
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
  Apr 3, 2011 - 12:56pm PT
Nutjob,

I like the new look. Saw a little Jeremiah Johnson on cable yesterday. You could've fit right in.
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
  Apr 3, 2011 - 08:12pm PT


Thanks for the P-Line pixs. I really miss that place. I don't know how many shirtless December through February days I played like a kid in a candy store there.
Nohea

Trad climber
Living Outside the Statist Quo
  Apr 3, 2011 - 08:17pm PT
Is that cow slacklining the fence?

Thanks for sharing a good day out!

Jeremiah Johnson! Hilarious!


Aloha,
Will
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Author's Reply  Apr 3, 2011 - 11:12pm PT
I had a good laugh looking up ol' Jeremiah:
Jeremiah Johnson
Jeremiah Johnson
Credit: nutjob

I'm still learning how to eat without wearing half the food. I'm contemplating shaving it. If I do, I might do it in stages and try a "lamb chops" trip report as a once in a life photo opportunity.
murcy

Gym climber
sanfrancisco
  Apr 3, 2011 - 11:19pm PT
Great TR!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Apr 5, 2011 - 02:18pm PT
Very nice TR!

The light in many of your photos is stellar. Makes the stone really shine!

The proof is in your pix.

Cheers,

Mucci
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Apr 5, 2011 - 03:47pm PT
Ran into Dave at the gym and he mentioned this TR - good memory to hunt up.

Here are some more from that day. J. Johnson, good fit, but he had a nicer hat:









Tork

climber
Yosemite
  Apr 11, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
Thanks for the tr Nutjob, been waiting for it.
Good to see folks enjoying P-Line.

If you get back there soon, I think you would like Ken's route Haley Anna plus the two additional pitches of soft in the middle above.
Brokedownclimber

Trad climber
Douglas, WY
  Apr 11, 2011 - 12:12pm PT
Nice job on the stone! Great and inspiring TR.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Apr 11, 2011 - 02:03pm PT
Great TR guys, and PLENNIA GOOD PHOTOS!!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Nov 12, 2013 - 12:06am PT
BUMP for pretty light and climbing porn.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Nov 12, 2013 - 12:15am PT
Cool stuff. Nutagain! Thanks for paying it forward!


That arÍte looks really cool. Never heard of this area.
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
  Nov 12, 2013 - 12:23am PT
great quality pics, makes me realize it been awhile since ive been to parkline, fun routes up there. and that slab climbing is exciting
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 12, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
Climbing should be at the top.

Bump!

Steve
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