Trip Report
TR 2010-05 NEB Higher Cathedral Rock
Friday June 11, 2010 8:09pm
Sorry folks, no dramas here, just a bunch of pics. We'll save the epic adventure stories for the next time we have an epic adventure. (Uhhh, sorta like two weeks after this trip on our first visit to Steck Salathe).

Beating sunrise to the base of the climb:

We simul'd the first few pitches, and I belayed at that tall spiky rock. Looking down from there:

Le_bruce decided to check out an off-route ledge for a few minutes...

Then he cruised up the next section whilst I posed:

I forgot how fun the little roofs are through there:

He took his pitch through that first traverse:

Here's me looking down on le_bruce as he approaches the crux overhang, and I'm hanging to avoid standing on the tree that will die and fall out soon:

More clowning:

And more crux:

Le_bruce is not a super-fan of squeeze chimneys:

But he eats them for breakfast just the same:

Here comes the next contestant on the price is right:

It looks suspiciously like he's hanging on this sling!

I think that's a guilty smile... or maybe just an "I'm glad to be here smile":

He's going for the stem variation... I just stayed plugged in under the roof:

It's always a sweet spot to hang out and enjoy the valley. No crowds from this angle!

But back to my compadre who is up there somewhere near the second traverse, cutting left under that big roof, by now:

Meanwhile, the dude below looks like he's thinking WTF? But they beat us to the top when we wandered off later on...

Uncle le_bruce stink-bugging across the second traverse:

We were hauling arse up to this point:

and then the wheels started coming off...
I started bonking a little, going slowly through a different path than I've gone before. And we got shut down by this mantle-problem (where the rope crosses the ledge just above the belayer) for at least half an hour:

We rallied and got it done. But here's the dudes who were behind us before, just wrapping up:

Here's our caboose:

And some shots from the top...

Looking up the grand valley:

Lower/Middle/Higher Brother:

El Cap:

Ribbon Falls:

Some clowns:

Poser above the river above bridalveil falls:

Some sights on the way down:



Life after snowmelt:

The pleasant hike down the gulley:

And I'll give the Baba sign-off, "Peace":

  Trip Report Views: 2,884
About the Author
nutjob is a climber from Berkeley, CA.

Some people call me the space cowboy yeah
Some call me the gangster of love
Some people call me Maurice
Cause' I speak of the pompetous of love

Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report

  Jun 11, 2010 - 08:18pm PT
Fabulous! Nice guys maxxed the fun meter by the look of it. Cool report, too.
Joe Metz

Trad climber
Bay Area
  Jun 11, 2010 - 08:27pm PT
Nice TR, Scott. Nice to see you out there with a big smile on your face.

  Jun 11, 2010 - 08:32pm PT
Thanks for the great pictures. Which rock was the Pomphetus of Love?

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
  Jun 11, 2010 - 10:55pm PT
Nice Job! what a pleasure to see all these pics of the route im going to do next. I told you the cure for the downers is climbing, if only we could do it more often eh?

Trad climber
  Jun 11, 2010 - 11:10pm PT
Good Stuff!

Trad climber
  Jun 12, 2010 - 12:51am PT
Scott- good stuff! Can't believe I still have not done that route!
Mighty Hiker

Outside the Asylum
  Jun 12, 2010 - 02:59am PT
Good report - thanks! I did it in 2004, but didn't get any photos, so it's nice to see it again.

Trad climber
Hustle City
  Jun 12, 2010 - 02:29pm PT
Gary Carpenter

SF Bay Area
  Jun 12, 2010 - 10:57pm PT
Good one Scott.

Looking forward to your SS TR!!

  Jun 13, 2010 - 10:32pm PT
Oh yeah!
Thanks for the pics.

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 01:52pm PT
Great picture of El Cap! And some wild shots along the way!!!


Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jun 15, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
Thanks for the TR!

Nice day of climbing it seems.


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
  Jun 15, 2010 - 03:29pm PT
Well done!

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Jun 16, 2010 - 05:58pm PT
You will probably do this route again. My 1st time was 40 years ago. I just did it again about 3 weeks ago, (at age 64), ; probably my 8th time. It seemed harder this year-or is it just my arthritis acting up?

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Author's Reply  Jun 16, 2010 - 06:34pm PT
This was my 3rd time, and first time I didn't feel worked at the end of it.

We're already talking about another lap before the next snows....

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
Author's Reply  Oct 29, 2012 - 10:34pm PT
Bump for a nice memory and nice pics. I'm doing my best to get Donini's thread about not enough trip reports off the front page :)

Trad climber
  Oct 29, 2012 - 10:54pm PT
donini's right, it sure is nice having all these killer reports on the front page for a change

Trad climber
Montuckyian Via Canada Eh!
  Oct 29, 2012 - 10:57pm PT
Thanx for sharing.....Cooool El Cap pic...........


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 29, 2012 - 11:05pm PT
Love that climb! Nice TR.

Gym climber
  Oct 29, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
Awesome! If I had a tick list, that would be like #3 on it, especially since "finger crack" appears nowhere in the TR. Can't wait till donini hauls me up it one day. Great photos, too. Best shot of the spires I've seen.
Captain...or Skully

Boise, ID
  Oct 29, 2012 - 11:24pm PT
This was my first long free route in The Valley. Still love it.
Thanks for bringin' it back for me, man.

And it's still there, huh? That's the best part.
TFP(fargin')U, dude.

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
  Oct 29, 2012 - 11:32pm PT
Didn't catch this one til now- thanks!!
Big Mike

Trad climber
  Oct 29, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
Donini's thread has spurred a couple of awesome bumps tonight!! i'd say it was a sucess!! thanks for the awesome report nutjob!! Just another thing to go back for!!

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Oct 29, 2012 - 11:50pm PT
yes, I voted for this thread. I'm a climbacrat, with leaning toward Republiclimbing tendencies.
Mighty Hiker

Outside the Asylum
  Oct 30, 2012 - 12:08am PT
photo not found
Missing photo ID#270986

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
  Oct 30, 2012 - 09:03am PT
I guess Jim did stir the pot a little.

Those great pictures are pretty fresh in my mind, since I did this route again, 3 weeks ago, with Cory Fleagle, during the AAC climbers meet.

Your super TR, is a great resource for anyone who wants beta on the route.

My favorite route in the Valley.

Gym climber
sawatch choss
  Oct 30, 2012 - 05:47pm PT
Hey Kirk, it was my first long route too. With .... a firefighter from Odessa, TX named Jim. Anything shorter he referred too as 'piddling'.

Anyhow, it's good to be reminded of what a fun outing this one is. And yeah, you gotta summit. It's just too cool up there.

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Jun 27, 2018 - 09:40pm PT
In the spirit of necro-bumps, some good pics in this one.
Did you like this Trip Report? Got something to say? Don't hold back...
Comment on this Trip Report