The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2

 
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El Capitan


Yosemite Valley, California USA


Trip Report
TAKING ON THE BIG GUYS – A YOSEMITE TR
Wednesday March 8, 2017 9:24am
Credit: jaddles
This is a little old but hopefully helpful to some people looking for info on a first time Yosemite trip or trying to do the nose and half dome for the first time.
https://jadelittlewood.wordpress.com/2016/04/13/taking-on-the-big-guys-a-yosemite-tr/

  Trip Report Views: 1,725
jaddles
About the Author
jaddles is a british trad climber living in vancouver.

Comments
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Mar 8, 2017 - 09:56am PT
Reminscent of many of my own trips to the ditch a pleasant surprise was the Serenity pics,( sad that there were not any more from the Steck/Salathe)
All good climbs!

I know that your Squamish background was the perfect place to cut your teeth.
That might be a very big bite & hard to chew,
On ones first trip to the Ditch if you are coming from a non-granite background.
Burnin' Oil

Trad climber
CA
  Mar 8, 2017 - 10:41am PT
I read the whole thing - that ended up being a great story and well done on the climbing.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Mar 8, 2017 - 11:27am PT
Fantastic! Thanks for the report and for sharing your stoke!


Scott
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
  Mar 8, 2017 - 12:01pm PT
An honest, insightful and wonderful report. Thanks for taking me along on this journey, it was enjoyable!

Way to get after it!
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 9, 2017 - 01:38pm PT
If there is one thing I feel ok to say I’m good at as a climber it is that I’ve propagated a good attitude to trying hard and not letting failure get to me. This approach helped A LOT for big walling. The other thing is that I’ve noticed over the years that I’m quite good at trying hard if I really want something. I wanted the Nose. Sooo badly. And I knew I was capable of trying – really, REALLY, hard to get it.

Oh hell yes.

Bookmarking this so I can read it at leisure. Really enjoyed the intro.

Respect for trying the Steck-Salathe on day two. Bail on SS, send on the Nose - SS burlier than the Nose, confirmed.

I can feel the future nostalgia dripping off of this excellent photo. In 20 years you and your partner will look at this photo from your rocking chairs and fondly remember the day

briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
  Mar 9, 2017 - 02:20pm PT
Hell yes. That was awesome!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Mar 9, 2017 - 05:06pm PT
hey there, say, jaddles...


wow, thanks for sharing, :)

good share!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
  Mar 9, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
Pretty fun. Thanks for sharing.
jaddles

Trad climber
Vancouver
Author's Reply  Mar 16, 2017 - 09:41am PT
Thank you all for enjoying my story and allowing me to share the stoke, it was just as enjoyable for me to tell. Thanks for the kind words.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Mar 16, 2017 - 10:33am PT
Wow, you guys really did a lot of climbing in not very much time! Way to send.

I was saved on my first trip up El Cap when we found some food and water stashed at El Cap Tower. Lucky you re. Dolt Tower.

So what's next? Salathe? See you in the spring?
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Mar 16, 2017 - 10:54am PT
Pretty solid vacation! I'm hungry right now and that potato omelet looks seriously good.
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El Capitan - The Nose 5.14a or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The Nose—the best rock climb in the world!
Photo: Mark Kroese
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El Capitan - Zodiac A2 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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1800' of fantastic climbing.
El Capitan - Salathe Wall 5.13b or 5.9 C2 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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The Salathé Wall ascends the most natural line up El Cap.
El Capitan - Lurking Fear C2F 5.7 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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Lurking Fear is route number 1.
El Capitan - East Buttress 5.10b - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
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East Buttress with top of The Nose on left.
El Capitan - The Shield A3 5.8 - Yosemite Valley, California USA. Click for details.
The Shield, A3 5.8
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The Shield is route number 7.
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