American Wet Dream 5.10b R

 
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Mountaineers Dome


Tuolumne Meadows, California USA


Trip Report
Sunday in the Meadows... a quick trip up a classic - American Wet Dream
Sunday August 23, 2015 9:40pm
Bela and I had plans to do Lucky Streaks, but it seems that that is a very popular route these days... so instead of climbing on the cool west face of Fairview Dome we opted for the sunny aspect of Mountaineers Dome to finally tick off American Wet Dream (at least for me, Bela's done it twice this year already).

It is a cool route that has short pitches, but the pitches are interesting each in their own right.

The first one features an awkward crack to a slab layback and goes at 5.9....

looking down from the pitch 1 belay
looking down from the pitch 1 belay
Credit: Ed Hartouni

...while I didn't start the day with a lot of vim and vigor, this pitch sort of charged me up... even though I had probably over cammed my right foot on a jam... felt funky on the ledge above.

You move the belay over to under the next step, and start up a right facing crack, apparently 5.10a...

start of the second pitch
start of the second pitch
Credit: Ed Hartouni
Bela about to put in his first piece of pro, the corner is a bit flaring and a bit overhanging at the start, tips in the corner, and thin face for your right foot, hold enough to keep the left foot inching up, oh, and thin pro too... eventually you get high enough to sink your fingers into a great slot and you're launched!

Another huge belay ledge awaits..

Even though we were swapping leads, I let Bela take the next one, a 5.10b crack with some interesting moves to get into it, and some powerful moves to take you to the top.

start of the third pitch
start of the third pitch
Credit: Ed Hartouni

Bela did great on this, and I somehow lucked into all the right moves and quickly gained the belay. It was my job to lead the fourth pitch, protected by a bolt with a slabby landing below, the key is to reach a thin flexible flake and stem up to an initially shallow crack scootching up high enough to get some pro in... the flake takes your first two pieces too...

I managed up and into the upper crack and fired in a piece of pro, falling wasn't an option, I'm sure the flake would have valiantly resisted the forces but ultimately in vain... the bolt would hold though... but that was far below.

The last pitch was classic TM slab to the diagonalling walk off ledge.

start of the fifth pitch
start of the fifth pitch
Credit: Ed Hartouni

very tame compared to the first four pitches, but a welcome relief.

The descent is another wild and improbably journey off a dome that takes you back to your car...

the "walk" off
the "walk" off
Credit: Ed Hartouni

It's almost like doing another route entirely, a solo warm down delivering you to a cold beer while sitting in the shade looking up at the really great route you just climbed.

The relatively short pitches and commodious ledges makes this a really fun outing.


  Trip Report Views: 3,329
Ed Hartouni
About the Author
Ed Hartouni is a trad climber from Livermore, CA.

Comments
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
  Aug 23, 2015 - 09:55pm PT
yehaw! Another classic for this summer Ed. Did this with TM a long time ago. He claimed this was his favorite route in Tuolumne, but he said that about a lot of climbs.

I recommend for your next trip the Vision, The Dike and Crying Time Again.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 23, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
Nice list Mike... but I've done those (and they are classic!)

The Vision
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=99894
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1240422&msg=1240473#msg1240473

The Dike Route
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=61241&msg=61424#msg61424
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=406338&msg=406338#msg406338
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=912108&msg=912108#msg912108

never wrote up a Crying Time Again TR on my two ascents...

Wayno

Big Wall climber
Republic, WA
  Aug 23, 2015 - 10:13pm PT
Looks like another fine time in the Meadows. Nice!
L

climber
Just livin' the dream
  Aug 24, 2015 - 06:03am PT
Short-n-sweet, Ed. Loved it!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Aug 24, 2015 - 07:34am PT
Great tr as always! Bela's approach shoes looked big on his rack.. Tell him to consider Five Fingers for approach shoes on climbs where you take them with you.
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, Bozeman, the ocean, or ?
  Aug 24, 2015 - 07:40am PT
Great trip report Ed. I always enjoy hearing about what Bela, you, et al, are up to.

Susan
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
  Aug 24, 2015 - 08:07am PT
hey there say, ed... say, great trip report here, thanks for sharing, :)
nice to hear from you, here... :)
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
  Aug 24, 2015 - 08:58am PT
Great report Ed. This kind of modest TR gives us mere mortals encouragement to get out there and do it.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 24, 2015 - 09:26am PT
commode? commodious?


really big porta potty sized ledge?

:)
susu

climber
East Bay, CA
  Aug 24, 2015 - 09:44am PT
Nice. Great 3rd pitch shot too.
teamwhipper

climber
Bay Area, CA
  Aug 24, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
Alas, while this weekend featured an amazing wildlife sighting (the Elusive Hartouni in full summer plumage), I had no photographic equipment to document the sighting. Thought to be endemic to felsic regions, the elusive creature appears to exhibit a preference for porphyritic plutons. The evolutionary advantage of his full facial plumage is unclear.
amyjo

Trad climber
  Aug 24, 2015 - 03:41pm PT

Anda.
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 24, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
It was great to see you too Ed! Fun seeing yall. Always a great start to a trip in The Meadows. Fifteen years of climbing in the meadows and I've never bouldered. I'm so sore today! That's what I get for taking a teenager to the mountains!
BL

Trad climber
  Aug 24, 2015 - 05:56pm PT

Nice TR and great time spent with you Ed. Always a good time hanging out in the meadows. First time trying to post photos so i hope they work.
Thanks Jim for pointing out that my ass makes my shoes look so big. ;) Average 9.5 scarpas. I'd like to bring something lighter and smaller but a previous broken talus tends to needs a bit more support but for a route like that they were a bit much.

MH2

Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
  Aug 24, 2015 - 05:57pm PT
Whether commode or commodious, definitely grin-worthy.

Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 25, 2015 - 03:53am PT
Your on a roll ED!!!!
Thanks!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Aug 25, 2015 - 08:47am PT
Nice photos BL!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Aug 25, 2015 - 09:05am PT
Good times in the heart of the short TM summer!

I'd love to see you on Lucky Streaks, myslf, Ed.

I remember watching TM descending after he and another did L.S., and he said it was his new favorite climb.

Guy's so full of it...
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Aug 25, 2015 - 09:16am PT
Sweet TR.

I think I saw a Hartouni near central pillar on friday, and bela later on that afternoon doing a drive by.

What are the chances you both ended up in TM....

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Author's Reply  Aug 25, 2015 - 09:21am PT
Mucci, you did, and Bela said he spotted your truck later on the drive out...
we had an idea to climb in the Valley for the weekend, we met at Middle Cathedral with a plan to do something long there but decided the temps were soaring and split for TM.

This time of year you have to love the high country!
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Soulsbyville, California
  Aug 25, 2015 - 02:33pm PT
Small world. A pleasure to meet you and Bela, Ed in the Tenaya Beach Parking Lot following your AWD ascent. Did it many eons ago and still remember what a neat, enjoyable route it was. It was even hot in the Meadows Sunday, so the Valley must have truly been unbearable.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Aug 25, 2015 - 02:57pm PT
Your trip reports never disappoint me, Ed. Thanks for another excellent one.

John
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Aug 25, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
Nice Work Men!
Stone Cowboy

Trad climber
Livermore, CA.
  Oct 15, 2015 - 05:40am PT
hey ed -

eye am back in shape after the 2012 hip replacement. Lets ROCK!!! the valley this winter:) Go Team.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
  Oct 17, 2015 - 10:03am PT
Excellent, Ed. Thanks for the report. This is probably as good a place as any to tell how the climb got its name.

I was on the first ascent of the route with Clevenger, Tom McCabe and Daryle Teske on July 4,1974. Ouch. Could it be 41 years ago? Not possible, no way … It was Clevenger’s route and I had bouldered with Vern, but never climbed with him before he invited me along.

I don’t remember much about the climbing itself, although the photos help bring back some of the situations. For example, I led some of the pitches, but couldn’t tell you which ones. In fact, I forgot all about the route until a couple of years ago when I was surprised to see it called a classic in the ST select guide. I would like to go back and refresh my memory of it, so maybe next year that'll happen.

Back at the car, we were casting about for what to name the route, when I said with sarcasm,

“It’s the American Dream: a new route on the fourth of July,”

Vern’s face broadened into a grin that reached right across his face. He started laughing and his gruff voice positively cackled with glee:

“It’s the American Wet Dream!”
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Mountaineers Dome - American Wet Dream 5.10b R - Tuolumne Meadows, California USA. Click to Enlarge
The impressive face of Mountaineer's Dome as seen from the base.
Photo: Chris McNamara
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