Trip Report
Stoner's Highway 5.11.13
Wednesday May 15, 2013 12:50pm
Somehow Peter and I both got psyched for some Middle Cathedral face climbing. I think in my case the psyche came from the DNB thread on the taco. So we considered Ho Chi Min or Stoner's and since we were driving up that am from the bay decided on the latter.

Overall it was an excellent, clean, route characterized by 30.20.10 - that is 30' run on 5.8, 20 on 5.9 and so forth. It never felt that bad really, but I would give it at least a PG. The route definitely keeps your attention and also proves slow to lead as there is significant micro route finding, back and forth etc....All the belays except the first are two new bolts and are set up to rap.

The crux was definitely the first pitch. That was a hot one and I soaked my shirt getting through the traverse. We both thought pitch 6 was not that bad going to the right. The second crux for me was pitch 9 after the second bolt. I went up and down a few times not wanting to commit to an off balance high step and the possible slider. Fortunately, Peter scoffed at my wimpering, pointing out how clean the fall was and how shiny and new the bolt looked down below my feet. We sent.

Go do it !

pitch one
pitch one
Credit: David Wilson
finishing the pitch one crux traverse
finishing the pitch one crux traverse
Credit: David Wilson
starting off on pitch 2
starting off on pitch 2
Credit: David Wilson
pitch 3 corner
pitch 3 corner
Credit: David Wilson
nice views
nice views
Credit: David Wilson
starting pitch 6
starting pitch 6
Credit: David Wilson
traverse after second bolt on pitch 6
traverse after second bolt on pitch 6
Credit: David Wilson
starting pitch 8
starting pitch 8
Credit: David Wilson
pitch 9
pitch 9
Credit: David Wilson
another team - probably on the DNB
another team - probably on the DNB
Credit: David Wilson

  Trip Report Views: 1,751
David Wilson
About the Author
David Wilson is a climber from CA.

Comments
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eKat

Trad climber
  May 15, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
BEAUTY!

TFPU!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
  May 15, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Awesome thanks! When did the route go into the shade. I'd rather avoid sun on the first pitch.

Did any of the anchors have old slings that need to be replaced for rappelling?
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  May 15, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Stoner's Pitch 6
Stoner's Pitch 6
Credit: Largo

Quite a bit steeper than I remember.

Great photos. Fun route. A little spicy.

JL
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  May 15, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Bump!
David Wilson

climber
CA
Author's Reply  May 15, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
John, that pic probably is a bit tipped

Luke, only tat is on the top of P1. We had sun in our eyes for most of the route, so maybe the shade starts around 1230 or 1.....a guess.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 15, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
The traverses set up for some really nice perspective pics! Good job guys.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 15, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
sweet David.

Would love to do that line.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 15, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Stoner Stoke!

Thanks for the beta and photos.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  May 15, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
I remember jamming velvet moss on P10, up to the tree. Yeah, that P1 is an attention getter! The wondrous Middle...
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  May 15, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Nice
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  May 15, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Beautiful ... and worthy!

Thanks for sharing!!
10b4me

climber
  Mar 12, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
bump
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Sep 26, 2014 - 11:11am PT
Hhahahaaha oh man, 30/20/10 bump.

Where do we sign up for the 15/10/5 leads?
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Sep 26, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Thanks, David, for the TR, and thanks to those who bumped it. I did the Powell-Reed in 1973 around the time that Stoner's Highway was coming into existence. What a great face! As Largo says, though, Stoner's Highway has some spicy climbing.

John
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 26, 2014 - 12:07pm PT
Good job!
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
  Sep 26, 2014 - 12:23pm PT
Great pics on one of my favorite routes ever.

Good job!
thebravecowboy

climber
hold on tight boys
  Sep 26, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
cool photos!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
  Sep 26, 2014 - 06:10pm PT
I must've missed this the first time round. I had set out to do this with Ken Trout last early October, but was kicked out of the Valley that very morning of our planned ascent because of the national park closures. I had scoped it out on a rest day the day before, and it appeared that the traverse on the first pitch had at least three more bolts than when I had done it in the mid-late 1970's and what the yellow George Meyers guide shows. The guide shows a bolt at the beginning and one at the end. When I saw this I was both a little disappointed and a bit relieved, I suppose. Never did get to try it last year.
hashbro

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
  Sep 26, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
stunning yet scary
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
  Sep 26, 2014 - 08:07pm PT
Believe me, if we could do it all irie in EBs at eighteen, with no cams, it just ain't that serious.

It sure has some fun continuous face climbing on some very nice stone.

And the approach is moderate, eh?


I'll never lose the image in my mind of looking down 6 pitches of climbing and seeing virtually every handhold chalked up in a winding path from the ground up. The slab is that flat where the route goes. It's an amazing rock climb for a number of reasons.

Cool photos!

And nice work on doing the entire route instead of doing the Central Pillar five pitch cop out
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
  Sep 26, 2014 - 08:04pm PT
^^^ oversized backslap ... dizzy with regard, grateful for the impetus. hell, call it causality
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Sep 27, 2014 - 02:27am PT
So Good that's
getting it done!
Good job!,
Captain...or Skully

climber
in the oil patch...Fricken Bakken, that's where
  Sep 27, 2014 - 06:29am PT
Really cool route....excellent TR. TFPU!!!6!!!
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