Trip Report
Stoner's Highway 5.11.13
Wednesday May 15, 2013 12:50pm
Somehow Peter and I both got psyched for some Middle Cathedral face climbing. I think in my case the psyche came from the DNB thread on the taco. So we considered Ho Chi Min or Stoner's and since we were driving up that am from the bay decided on the latter.

Overall it was an excellent, clean, route characterized by 30.20.10 - that is 30' run on 5.8, 20 on 5.9 and so forth. It never felt that bad really, but I would give it at least a PG. The route definitely keeps your attention and also proves slow to lead as there is significant micro route finding, back and forth etc....All the belays except the first are two new bolts and are set up to rap.

The crux was definitely the first pitch. That was a hot one and I soaked my shirt getting through the traverse. We both thought pitch 6 was not that bad going to the right. The second crux for me was pitch 9 after the second bolt. I went up and down a few times not wanting to commit to an off balance high step and the possible slider. Fortunately, Peter scoffed at my wimpering, pointing out how clean the fall was and how shiny and new the bolt looked down below my feet. We sent.

Go do it !

pitch one
pitch one
Credit: David Wilson
finishing the pitch one crux traverse
finishing the pitch one crux traverse
Credit: David Wilson
starting off on pitch 2
starting off on pitch 2
Credit: David Wilson
pitch 3 corner
pitch 3 corner
Credit: David Wilson
nice views
nice views
Credit: David Wilson
starting pitch 6
starting pitch 6
Credit: David Wilson
traverse after second bolt on pitch 6
traverse after second bolt on pitch 6
Credit: David Wilson
starting pitch 8
starting pitch 8
Credit: David Wilson
pitch 9
pitch 9
Credit: David Wilson
another team - probably on the DNB
another team - probably on the DNB
Credit: David Wilson

  Trip Report Views: 1,096
David Wilson
About the Author
David Wilson is a climber from CA.

Comments
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eKat

Trad climber
  May 15, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
BEAUTY!

TFPU!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
  May 15, 2013 - 02:18pm PT
Awesome thanks! When did the route go into the shade. I'd rather avoid sun on the first pitch.

Did any of the anchors have old slings that need to be replaced for rappelling?
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
  May 15, 2013 - 03:07pm PT
Stoner's Pitch 6
Stoner's Pitch 6
Credit: Largo

Quite a bit steeper than I remember.

Great photos. Fun route. A little spicy.

JL
Dirka

Trad climber
Hustle City
  May 15, 2013 - 04:37pm PT
Bump!
David Wilson

climber
CA
Author's Reply  May 15, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
John, that pic probably is a bit tipped

Luke, only tat is on the top of P1. We had sun in our eyes for most of the route, so maybe the shade starts around 1230 or 1.....a guess.
nutjob

Sport climber
Almost to Hollywood, Baby!
  May 15, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
The traverses set up for some really nice perspective pics! Good job guys.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  May 15, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
sweet David.

Would love to do that line.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  May 15, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Stoner Stoke!

Thanks for the beta and photos.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
  May 15, 2013 - 08:17pm PT
I remember jamming velvet moss on P10, up to the tree. Yeah, that P1 is an attention getter! The wondrous Middle...
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  May 15, 2013 - 10:24pm PT
Nice
Leggs

Sport climber
Made in California
  May 15, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Beautiful ... and worthy!

Thanks for sharing!!
10b4me

climber
  Mar 12, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
bump
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