Trip Report
South Face Lone Pine Peak
Saturday March 9, 2013 12:29am
Lone Pine Peak 3/2/13
South Face
South Face
Credit: Scott Thelen
Over the past few weeks my friend Sam and I had been planning to climb the south face of Lone Pine Peak. Our route was the MSMR to the Summer Ridge. Id been watching the weather which had been in the 60s in Lone Pine and in the mid 30s in the high country. We made the call to go, so at 8:30 pm after Sam got off work, we drove down to Lone Pine making it there by 1:00 am.
Credit: Scott Thelen
We got out of bed by 6:00 am or so and headed straight to the trailhead and made eggs and sausage while watching first light hit the South Face. We talked about what to bring, we needed to be super light knowing that everything we took had to go up the route. Seeing that there wasnt much snow we opted for approach shoes with gaiters instead of mountain boots, grabbed the smallest pack, one water bottle, 13 draws, a few slings, 5 cams and a thin 70m rope. It seemed a little light but Sam was not concerned having done the route a few years before. At 8:30 am we started the hike.
Sam
Sam
Credit: Scott Thelen
Sam is a machine, always trying to push himself. Whether hes riding his bike from Alaska to Argentina, running 100 miles, or doing scary run-out routes. I can always trust that when I go on a trip with Sam I will always be pressed to climb harder and maybe get a little sandbagged. Myself on the other hand far less fit, currently spending most of my time working or driving to work and to make things worse Id been having dizzy spells that were making me have head rushes and vertigo. Id been to the doctor a few days prier, got pills and was hoping that my spins would stop. Waking up that morning I started spinning out so I told Sam he may have to lead the hard parts mostly to save time and so I didnt take an unwanted long fall.
Credit: Scott Thelen
The start of the trail was a nice little hike up to the stone house which turned into a thrash, one foot of snow covering slabs, brush, and talus. We moved fast getting to the base within a few hours. On the way up I had been looking for the creek but after crossing the whole valley the creek was not to be seen. Sam, sure that he could find water, took off with the water bottle and ran off top speed. Meanwhile I went to dig a hole and to find my make shift Ice Axe, preferably a nice slender sharp rock.
Credit: Scott Thelen
Credit: Scott Thelen
Credit: Scott Thelen
The approach gully was fun, hard pack snow with rock steps here and there. It would have been great with boots and an axe. Having none of these, we moved on with tennis shoes and rocks in hand, climbing up past a few rotten ice patches and arrived at the first notch the start of the MSMR route. Sam moved up a short easy step as I watched. I started to get Vertigo and I called up to Sam for a belay. I met up with Sam on a nice sunny ledge and told him that he was going to have to lead for a while. The route ahead looked great, a couple easy pitches, and then 3 hard slab pitches up a perfect dike. Sam led fast and I tried to follow as fast as possible. Within a few hours we reached the junction of the summer ridge. After gaining the ridge we, simul-climbed the next 200 meters. It was a great change of pace a long low angle ridge climb with a bit of snow for spice. An hour or so later we reached the junction of the winter route. From the notch we went straight up for 2 moderate 75m to 80m pitches which topped us out. The views were great the wind was calm and the sun was still out!
Sam
Sam
Credit: Scott Thelen
sam
sam
Credit: Scott Thelen
Sam
Sam
Credit: Scott Thelen
Super Dike
Super Dike
Credit: Scott Thelen
summer ridge
summer ridge
Credit: Scott Thelen
Sam
Sam
Credit: Scott Thelen
Credit: Scott Thelen
near the top
near the top
Credit: Scott Thelen
Credit: Scott Thelen

The decent was even more of a thrash and we were happy to start hiking down in daylight. The decent had a lot of knee to waist deep snow with patches of hard packed snow. Once it started to get dark we hit the sand hills and the speed picked up. We quickly got to Tuttle Creek and drank strait out of the creek. The water was good but the beer was not far away, just a short but steep 15 minute thrash up through the rose brush and talus. To our dismay on arrival the beer was warm but with a strong thirst we drank all of them and life was good.

The South Face is a great wall with great views. I was glad to have done the whole route. Our car to car time was 10 hours. Thank you Sam for getting it done, you had it wired and thats why it went so fast.



  Trip Report Views: 1,730
Scott Thelen
About the Author
Scott Thelen is a trad climber from Genoa, Nv

Comments
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10b4me

climber
  Mar 9, 2013 - 12:41am PT
Glad you got it done
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
  Mar 9, 2013 - 01:11am PT
Haulin azz,, NICE job! I woulda bivied somewhere !
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Mar 9, 2013 - 01:27am PT
good place up there, thx for the post
BuddhaStalin

climber
Truckee, CA
  Mar 9, 2013 - 05:46am PT
F*#kin a, not bad for a couple of clowns
Eggstele

Trad climber
Kings Beach, Lake Tahoe
  Mar 9, 2013 - 11:23am PT
Nice work boys! Reminds me of when I used to get after it climbing and marathon trips like this.
Tebbutt
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Mar 9, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Great report and excellent effort!
Red Wing

climber
California
  Mar 9, 2013 - 11:48am PT
scott, those spins are probably just the beers you had for breakfast...
Scott Thelen

Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
Author's Reply  Mar 9, 2013 - 01:14pm PT
That may be

The doctor told me a few days ago that I have fluid deep in my ear canal some tube thing?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Mar 9, 2013 - 01:53pm PT
Looks like a great day out!!!!
Thanks!!!!
Brian Biega

climber
Truckee, CA
  Mar 9, 2013 - 10:01pm PT
Hey Scott-

Way to go out there! Sounds like a great climb and in nice style.

Cheers, Briain
phylp

Trad climber
Millbrae, CA
  Mar 11, 2013 - 12:14pm PT
Beautiful! I was just wondering how much snow was left up high in this area and this answered all my questions.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Mar 11, 2013 - 01:18pm PT
Seems like a really nice climb for a warm winter/early spring day. Might tr to check it out some time soon, if I am lucky haha. Well done hope you get your ear fixed.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
  Mar 11, 2013 - 02:31pm PT
Those pictures make the route look mighty attractive. Way to go, and way to post. Excellent!

John
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
  Mar 12, 2013 - 12:37pm PT
Sweet.
msiddens

Trad climber
  Mar 12, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
NICE
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
  Mar 13, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
Good work. Cool to see MSMR getting a lot of repeats.

I'm sure LPP is a great place to be in winter!

 Luke
Beccayen

climber
  Mar 24, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Thank you Scotty! I love that I have some great photos of Sam climbing! Usually he's on the other side of the lens ;)
Glad you are feeling better too
justin dille

Mountain climber
grass valley
  Apr 25, 2013 - 05:56am PT
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SEND IN THE CLOWNS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?
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