Trip Report
Solo of The Full Evolution Crest Traverse (VI 5.9)
Tuesday October 4, 2016 6:22pm
A few years ago I encountered the report about the traverse of the full Evolution Crest in the 2014 AAJ. It got me excited to cover a whole lot of mountain terrain which would be completely new to me, as it shares only two and a half out of sixteen miles of ridge climbing with the regular Evolution Traverse. It seemed like attempting to solo it in a series of marathon-like days would be a big step up from the car to car climb of the Evolution Traverse, as Evo Crest is at least double the length of the regular Evo. Naturally it seemed fairly damn intimidating and I procrastinated till beginning of September 2016. Glad I did do it, as it surpassed all the expectations and I liked it A LOT! Highly recommend the route and the only other party that repeat it wrote "better than Evolution traverse!" in one of the registers.

I don't make people click the link often, but I took SO MANY photos that it would take an hour to move them over. Click the link below for the short story and A LOT of pictures. If you don't, here is a summary - V send the gnar. Traversed over 20+ summits in 3 days and took a ton of photos. There was exertion, great views, fun and 'I wish I had diapers, oh never-mind, too dehydrated to piss myself.' All the yoga helped the knees hold up. Lack of brain helped to be persistent.


For A LOT of PHOTOS click below:
http://vividrea1ity.blogspot.com/2016/10/solo-of-evolution-crest-traverse-vi-59.html


Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

photo not found
Missing photo ID#473299

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

Credit: Vitaliy M.

  Trip Report Views: 4,320
Vitaliy M.
About the Author
Vitaliy M. is an annoying gym climber from San Francisco.

Comments
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
  Oct 4, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
Great thnx again, I realize, and wavered on saying more for taking such great pictures showing exactly the nature of the game. The second to last picture :
exposed, unforgiving drops and sloping into space, chunks of rock - frozen but moving. the fractured nature of the terrain . The blue bird sky.
The definition of passion is the culmination of conflicting emotions.
This time this climb defines that definition. . .
To get to have the reach of the Giants - the ability to go and see,
can come with a very high price.

Beautiful, raw the crest ! It looks so good thnx again again.!
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
  Oct 4, 2016 - 06:48pm PT
I just love your stuff! So good to see you at Facelift!

Susan and Michael
ruppell

climber
  Oct 4, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
Freakin rad V. It's on the list after that TR.

The next logical step would be to link it into the Palisade Traverse. Start training harder. lol
Larry Nelson

Social climber
  Oct 4, 2016 - 06:50pm PT
Great traverse, great pictures, TFPU
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
  Oct 4, 2016 - 06:55pm PT
nice pasties. nice hike too! not sure if the jump across DQs "full" traverse though. HAHA! way to stick the landing!
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
  Oct 4, 2016 - 08:48pm PT
Nice, but you could have done it in 2 days with a few less shots!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 4, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
Had to take it easy on my knees and accumulate photos for the instagram. More followers, more power.

Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
  Oct 4, 2016 - 09:24pm PT
Nice.

There are some very good 2" thick air mattresses that are sturdy and VERY comfortable these days. Maybe you can get sponsorship or something after this.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 6, 2016 - 11:34am PT
I like paying for own gear and being independent. Enjoy earning it, from fitness, to climbs and possessions. My mom always told me the free cheese is in the mousetrap.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
  Oct 5, 2016 - 12:19am PT
Now we know what the "something crazy" was that Cosmic mentioned you'd said you were going to try.

Great climb, V. Thanks for all the photos... will be going back to look at these again and again!
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
  Oct 5, 2016 - 04:13am PT
"The free cheese is in the mousetrap" is going to be in my brain for some time now. Thats a great way of putting it.
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 5, 2016 - 04:39am PT
I am in AWE
johntp

Trad climber
socal
  Oct 5, 2016 - 04:45am PT
Kick ass! Another great and appreciated TR.
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
  Oct 5, 2016 - 07:16am PT
V the man
V the man

V, this reminds me of what a powerful man you are.
Mike.

climber
  Oct 5, 2016 - 07:27am PT
Simply badass. My hat is off to you and the few other who can do this stuff. Thanks for taking the time to shoot and post.
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Oct 5, 2016 - 11:01am PT
Awesome V.

Have a look at the Great Western Divide. Could provide a similar objective . . .

skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
  Oct 5, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
Nice work! And I like your blog/thingy too.
G_Gnome

Trad climber
Cali
  Oct 5, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
Awesome V. That there was one heck of a lot of choss. Keep it up but be safe!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 6, 2016 - 06:04am PT
When you have time.... It would really cool if you could go back through you blog post and label more the photos (where the photo was taken)
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Oct 6, 2016 - 08:12am PT
A proper outing for sure young lad. A proper outing. Well done.



NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Oct 6, 2016 - 10:01am PT
You are a burly monster machine!

It must have been a funny moment considering the jump-across
after the pack didn't stick the landing.
Trying to convince yourself that it wasn't foreshadowing :)

I hope you are fully letting the beauty of the landscape
seep into your soul,
as you suck up more special views and nature moments in a weekend
than many of us will get in a lifetime.
Livin' large bro!
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Oct 6, 2016 - 10:15am PT
Nice to see you keep getting after it.

TFPU

Your mom is a smart woman.
labrat

Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
  Oct 6, 2016 - 11:49am PT
All those wonderful pictures and only two selfies? Or maybe you only decided to post two of them?.......

Thank you for posting! Keep getting out and having fun
Erik
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 6, 2016 - 03:57pm PT
people care more to see the scenery, me thinks :) Or maybe I personally like to shift the focus to that. Plenty of selfies out there otherwise!
Pretty much the only reason I try to include a few photos of self into report(s) is because I send them to my parents as well. They on the other hand, want to see more of me...lakes, nature and flowers. And no mountains preferably. Can't please everyone!

It must have been a funny moment considering the jump-across
after the pack didn't stick the landing.

A funny moment in retrospect. Climbing is a ridiculous activity. :)
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
  Oct 6, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
v, nice tr, and great photos, what a wild traverse. hey, any chance you scored my shoes and cam off romulan warbird this fall? the shoes say hans on them. shipoopoi
nice talking with you at facelift.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 6, 2016 - 05:18pm PT
Stellar!!! Keep the stoke!
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
  Oct 6, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
^^^^ Donini sighting ^^^^^^

KEEP STOKE ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!11111111111
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 6, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
v, nice tr, and great photos, what a wild traverse. hey, any chance you scored my shoes and cam off romulan warbird this fall? the shoes say hans on them. shipoopoi
nice talking with you at facelift.

Yes, I handed them over to Hans during the facelift. They were on a biner with an old sling, connected to the anchor. Hans said it was his shoes but was confused about why they were on Romulan. lol. Said the carabiner is not his and gave it to me, I have it in my car. Will likely be in the valley this weekend, is there a good place to drop it off?
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 7, 2016 - 02:55am PT
Respect, way to go Vittles!

Awesome photography all around, those Milky Way shots are stellar!
Munkeybog

Trad climber
Spartanburg, Sc
  Oct 11, 2016 - 07:15pm PT
I was 1/2 of the first ascent. This report made my year. After the we completed the traverse I didn't know how to feel about it. Was it worthy? Who cares? Why would anyone care with Bouldering pads and speed draws snuffing out the holy suffering of mountains. Hehe. So my buddy, Scott, finally wrote it up 5 years later in the AAJ. And now I read this! Genuinely happy. I couldn't have read this at a better time for me personally. I needed this. So thanks.


I commented on the blog page but thought it worth repeating. The day Scott and I launched we bumped into Peter Croft at the gas station in Bishop. Fanboying we admitted what we were up to. His response justified all the hubris and absurdity of our goal. He said, "These are real routes. You can see them from space."

Unbelievable endeavor V!
Munkeybog

Trad climber
Spartanburg, Sc
  Oct 11, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
For fun... and because few have ever seen these.
The start early afternoon. Day1
The start early afternoon. Day1
Credit: Munkeybog
day1

Just goofing on unnamed summits.
Just goofing on unnamed summits.
Credit: Munkeybog
a "joke" summit post
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Oct 11, 2016 - 06:48pm PT
Awesome V!


I commented on the blog page but thought is worth repeating. The day Scott and I launched we bumped into Peter Croft at the gas station in Bishop. Fanboying we admitted what we were up to. His response justified all the hubris and absurdity of our goal. He said, "These are real routes. You can see them from space."

Awesome! Awesome!

There's some very good meat being chewed on on the taco lately😋
Munkeybog

Trad climber
Spartanburg, Sc
  Oct 11, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
Early attempt or FA post by Galen Rowell and Peter Croft.
Early attempt or FA post by Galen Rowell and Peter Croft.
Credit: Munkeybog
Croft/Rowell summit post.

leema

Mountain climber
  Oct 11, 2016 - 06:51pm PT
Nice climbing Vitaliy! After completing a traverse from Southfork Pass to Mt. Agassiz in 2004(with Adam Penney), I wanted to return the following year and traverse from Bishop Pass to Piute Pass in order to experience that incredible stretch of the Sierra crest. Well it took a few more years than I thought, but Kyle Sox (a super climber and partner)and myself got the opportunity in 2008. I figured it would be a long time before it was repeated, do to its length. Apparently I was wrong! Thank you for your write-up, the pictures you took throughout the traverse, and especially the work you do as a Registered Nurse - one of the most important jobs in the world. Scott McCook
Munkeybog

Trad climber
Spartanburg, Sc
  Oct 11, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
Scott making a new summit register on Darwin
Scott making a new summit register on Darwin
Credit: Munkeybog
Love this photo of Scott on Darwin. Maniac!

Swollen ankle crushed toe towards Lamarck.
Swollen ankle crushed toe towards Lamarck.
Credit: Munkeybog
Scott's smashed toe and swollen ankle after Darwin. Maniac!
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
  Oct 11, 2016 - 07:10pm PT
^^^RAD!

I love that that first post by Craig was from Folsom! I used to love to skinnydip in Folsom;)
Munkeybog

Trad climber
Spartanburg, Sc
  Oct 11, 2016 - 07:13pm PT
Kyle on Lamarck. You can see most of the traverse in this shot.
Kyle on Lamarck. You can see most of the traverse in this shot.
Credit: Munkeybog
This is on Lamarck night before last day. We thought crux was behind us. WRONG! V knows! Between Piute and Lamarck is some serious biz.

Piute pass. Bedraggled.
Piute pass. Bedraggled.
Credit: Munkeybog
So thrashed at the end. I jogged out and hitched a ride to get the car for Scott. I still don't know how he muscled from before Darwin to the finish *3 full days* with his toe and ankle in the state it was in!

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Oct 11, 2016 - 10:34pm PT
Great you guys saw it. I thought of trying to find your emails through someone from the AAJ to let you guys know it was an amazing outing and to thank for the write up. As I said in the report, the climb is the REAL deal! And yes, the stretch from Piute to Lamark had a load of unexpected difficulties. As George Bush would say, 'I misunderestimated.' Of course now I'm happy with the way it all went, aside from smashing my camera and the air mattress, yet even that added some adversity to the whole experience.
The only reason so many people get after the regular Evolution traverse is because of word of mouth and online reports. Hope this report will attract more people to this route. It is an amazing journey. So many peaks, kind of mindblowing. Please post on if you guys did some other cool climbs, now that you have ST accounts. There are people who would love to hear all about it, not just first ascents too. Which part of US are you from? Would be happy to climb with you some day and bullshit about this whole thing in person. There is much more not mentioned in the report of course.
Also, another party climbed it a few years back.
nah000

climber
now/here
  Oct 11, 2016 - 10:50pm PT
awesome vitaliy!

and always cool to pull in a first ascensionist [or two]...

awesome report, awesome route, awesome comments...

did i mention awesome, yet?
Munkeybog

Trad climber
Spartanburg, Sc
  Oct 12, 2016 - 05:34am PT
Spartanburg, South Carolina.
Lots of trad climbing in North Carolina. And I make bigger plans for specific things when I travel. We are true lowlanders that just like to get lost.

Would love to see a TR of the second ascent.

I've got tons of pics. And kept a journal for the most part on the FA. I am a suit and tie guy with a wife and kid now. So spraying is about as close to projecting something as I get anymore... :-) There are more plans in the works though.

Someone in this thread mentioned linking the palisade with the Evo traverse. Scott has done both. Maniac. Such a traverse in a single push would be an Olympic feat.
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
  Oct 12, 2016 - 06:08am PT
Great stuff, Mr. Vitaly. Man, that's a lot of slag to traverse. I've climbed a bunch in that range and have no real desire to do that traverse, but I loved being taken along for the ride. Great photos. It must have been very nice to be up there at sunrise and sunset.

BAd
donnski

Mountain climber
Nanoose Bay, BC
  Oct 13, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
"not a real climber," yeah right. Well done!
Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Oct 13, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
Bad ass. I tip my Cubs hat to all y'all.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Dec 28, 2017 - 08:54am PT
Why wouldn't you just DM the OP instead of.... Ooooooh you're spamming for your website.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
  Dec 28, 2017 - 09:42am PT
The photo with the identified peaks is on Steph's website, NOT Paul's...

He did a really good job of figuring out what's what!

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/california/evolutiontraverse/pano%20more%20labels.jpg?attredirects=0
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Dec 28, 2017 - 11:58am PT
Terry, the photo outline of Evolution traverse you posted is NOT the evolution Crest Traverse.

Full Evolution crest and Evolution Traverse are two very different things.

Why wouldn't you just DM the OP instead of.... Ooooooh you're spamming for your website.

There are too many photos to move and I didn't have the time to do it. I don't get paid for anyone's clicks on my blog, nor do I care about the number of clicks it gets. It's there only so that I know my content is safe and not getting deleted if some admin doesn't like some offensive post I make on the forum.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
  Dec 28, 2017 - 01:56pm PT
Thanks for the heads up on this, V!

I was in a rush and wasn't paying much attention to the thread topic, but instead the peaks off in the distance of the photo... and what they were.

I remember reading your account back when you did it and yes the FULL Evo CREST Traverse is HUGE compared with the shorter BASIN version, the latter of which the elite can do in a day!

Am posting a map of the FULL traverse from Scott McCook's account on the AAC site:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212594/Bishop-Pass-to-Piute-Pass-Evolution-Crest-Traverse-previously-unreported

Credit: Scott McCook - AAJ 2014
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
  Dec 28, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
Wasn't referring to your TR Vitaliy, was referring to a spammer that has since has his account and posts deleted by the admins.

I mean, otherwise, I would have been telling you to Direct Message yourself the trip report as you were the Original Poster, and that'd be weird.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Dec 28, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
As i said earlier....kudos to Vitalyi. A lot of real estate on that puppy.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Author's Reply  Dec 29, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
LOL J-tree I was totally confused because I saw the same comment on Michelle's evo TR. But had not much to be confused because I had to go to work.

Hope all is well with everyone and a happy new year!
JakeW

Big Wall climber
CA
  Jan 1, 2018 - 12:52pm PT
Makes the old evolution traverse look piddly! Must have been awesome sightseeing!
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