Trip Report
Smith Rocks Outback Survey, 2013, The Grinch
Tuesday June 25, 2013 8:37pm
Credit: survival

I had to go to Bend and help my mother with some chores and projects.
But, I wanted a little something more! Something to connect me to the way back spirit me.


Credit: survival

It took about 2.5 seconds for the Grinch to respond when I asked him to climb Squaw Rock with me. He is a major big shot in Portland construction and it's not easy for him to get away.


Well, for us old timers, it was a crossed T, a dotted i.
Scott and I started climbing together at Smith Rocks in the days of goldline rope, before the days of Alan Watts and the sport clipping revolution.

We had been talking about hiking to, and climbing Squaw Rock since before Christ was a Corporal.
There it is in the waaay distance.
Credit: survival





Getting closer already!
Credit: survival


Scott was my first REAL partner, who was willing to tackle something beyond ourselves, in about 1976.
Climbing is so great, because it makes it easy to want to spend time with a brother 35 years later.
Credit: survival


Since the main crags at Smith Rocks got really "popular" in the early/mid 80's, one of my main goals in life has been to be AWAY from the zoo aspect. Scott feels the same, so talking him into something FAR away was a no brainer for me.
Well, we got what we asked for in the far away category......
Credit: survival

You know my M.O., I will be posting a lot of pics in a moment, after I deal with a couple family issues.

I love you SUPERTOPROPE!


  Trip Report Views: 1,032
survival
About the Author
survival is a big wall climber from A Token of My Extreme.

Comments
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Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jun 25, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
I love you SUPERTOPROPE!

Pervert!

Now, where are those pictures...
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 09:14pm PT
Ghost, ILYTB!

This is a test, since these gawdamn websites keep changing shit!



























See the bird in the lower right?



survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 09:05pm PT
ARRRGHH!! SEE WHAT I MEAN?!!










Archeological site!!










Upside Down Purple Monkey Face!









survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 09:03pm PT




























Back side of the Monkey.










survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 09:14pm PT








First real break site!




















Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jun 25, 2013 - 09:54pm PT
Ghost, ILYTB!

NTTAWWT

survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 10:03pm PT
NTTAWWT

Oh yeah? Well CCCSITSASGFUAR!!

The climb itself was unremarkable, so this TR isn't about the move by move reporting, but more the MOOD by MOOD reporting.

Most of you know that I prefer to let my pictures do the talking, so enjoy if you can!









































































Some old cowpoke tied off his barbed wire to a hole in the stone. I LOVE IT!


























survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 10:23pm PT
OK, so after like a week of walking, hiking, dragging, crawling, we were almost there!

We instinctively knew that after 35 years of NOT getting out there, today had to be the day.

Lucky for me Scott was always good at putting his head down and driving on like an Army Ranger when the situation called for it.
Aww heck, what kind of a pussy am I? It's only a 10-12 mile day....











































Grinching

Trad climber
State of Confusion
  Jun 25, 2013 - 10:36pm PT
Bruce,

These are great. I am still buzzing about getting way out there above everything else at Smith Rocks ....

Great trip!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
  Jun 25, 2013 - 10:55pm PT
Does this bring back some memories?

Spires seen from Crooked River
Spires seen from Crooked River
Credit: Ghost
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 25, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
Yes Ghost, EVERYTHING brings back memories there!


Scott, I'm just grateful that you were there for me, again, when it mattered. You have come through for me so many times...


I'll keep posting these pictures:









Yes, that IS Monkey Face down there in the lower right corner!










survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2013 - 01:40am PT
Purrrty flowers all over!





















survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2013 - 10:27am PT
We made it!!!


Credit: survival







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Credit: survival
Alpinista55

Mountain climber
Portland, OR
  Jun 26, 2013 - 12:16pm PT
Bumping up this Smith Rocks gold! Way to get outback, Survival. BUT, next time you're in Bend, you'd better pop over the hill to PDX, dammit...
splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
  Jun 26, 2013 - 02:42pm PT
summits matter. :)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2013 - 05:09pm PT
Thanks Jay!

Yeah, I know it ain't cutting edge alpinism like you did, but I get some decent pictures no matter where I go.

And damn it was beautiful up there!





Credit: survival








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Lookie the size of that sage!
Credit: survival

Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
  Jun 26, 2013 - 05:25pm PT
Back in the day I soloed up Squaw Rock and spent the afternoon reading Castaneda on top. There were a couple of vultures flying around the rock at eye level.

A couple of days later I found out that while I was hanging out up there reading Carlos discussing Western society's fear of death, among other things, two good friends were dying in Alaska.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jun 26, 2013 - 05:51pm PT
That is very cool Oplo. (Not the friends dying part, I mean the solo, book and birds...)We had some crazy bird action up there too! They're not very used to people up there.




Credit: survival








The next day we had a beautiful drive, and I showed Scott the sight of my first major choss first ascent, when I was 15, right about the time I met Scott.

Here it is...... A real beauty eh?
It's taller than it looks!
Credit: survival
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Jun 27, 2013 - 06:25pm PT
Great stuff Bruce, thanks!

Looks like you've got a life-long climbing partner there!
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 19, 2013 - 07:48pm PT
YeahBaby!

BBST!
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 20, 2013 - 12:39am PT
Thanks Ezra, and eKat!

You make my day.
Studly

Trad climber
WA
  Jul 20, 2013 - 11:45am PT

Awesome photography!
MH2

climber
  Jul 20, 2013 - 11:52am PT
I've only seen those fins on the skyline from below and far away, as points to muse over. It's great to get a tour out there from a guide who has earned the privilege to go off trail. Through the photos I get to see the ground up close and look back from distance to the main area. Oplopanax' post did the same for the distance between NOW and THEN.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Author's Reply  Jul 22, 2013 - 03:22pm PT
MH2, I have to say, that is one of the nicest and most thoughtful posts I have seen in a while. Thank you.


Credit: survival
Darwin

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 22, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
Survival,

I really like the TR seeing the rock, and way back when (ok definitely NOT bitd only early 90s) it was a good treck. It looks like you took the long way around(?).

This was a g'd'n, thanks,
Darwin
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