Trip Report
Shuteye Ridge Rocks
Thursday September 7, 2017 10:30am
Betsy and I just returned from a week in Shuteye Ridge trying to stay cool and out of the smoke, which we only partially accomplished. Fortunately if you pay attention there are north facing climbs that are out of the sun. Unfortunately we often got lured out into the sun by compelling climbs and got a little baked at times.

What a fantastic place. We saw no one until labor day and then saw two parties. It's like it is a secret place but its not Royal Robins climbed there in the 70s and Grahm Doe has published a wonderful and current guidebook. Maybe in the fall there are more people? Or maybe the proximity to Yosemite just sucks the people from fine places like this and nearby Fresno dome? It is definitely more work and you can scratch up your car maybe that is it. Whatever it makes Shuteye a great place to visit if you are up for dirt roads and uphill approaches.

From alpine style adventures like Wing Feather and Intrepid Voyager to modern tightly bolted face climbs like Too Old to be Bold (put up by Jerry Anderson and family in 2004), we really had fun:

Arrowhead on Crocodile Dome. Short but exhilarating and "thoughtful" 5...
Arrowhead on Crocodile Dome. Short but exhilarating and "thoughtful" 5.8.
Credit: Ney Grant
Bets on first pitch of Wing Feather, an excellent multipitch adventure...
Bets on first pitch of Wing Feather, an excellent multipitch adventure with varied climbing.
Credit: Ney Grant
Bets higher up on P1 of Wing Feather.  Long 60m pitches, and unfortuna...
Bets higher up on P1 of Wing Feather. Long 60m pitches, and unfortunately I got a little lost on P2.
Credit: Ney Grant
How to scratch the side of your sprinter.  The Shuteye Pass road up to...
How to scratch the side of your sprinter. The Shuteye Pass road up to "2WD camp" is not 2WD. We got a few hundred yards from the top and finally gave up and walked the rest of the way to the High Eagle area.
Credit: Ney Grant
Bets on Not Afraid.  Brian Prince and our daughter Belyn joined us, wi...
Bets on Not Afraid. Brian Prince and our daughter Belyn joined us, with Brian leading many of the climbs in this area.
Credit: Ney Grant
Just off some hard climbing in Patagonia and the Arrigetch Peaks in Al...
Just off some hard climbing in Patagonia and the Arrigetch Peaks in Alaska, Brian couldn't seem to keep up with Belyn and Bets.
Credit: Ney Grant
Water can be a challenge (I know, definitely a first world problem...
Water can be a challenge (I know, definitely a first world problem) for that many days in a van, but we had two jerry cans on top, and set up a siphon to use for showers.
Credit: Ney Grant
Bets on Crossing the Milky Way.  Awesome knob/plate climbing!
Bets on Crossing the Milky Way. Awesome knob/plate climbing!
Credit: Ney Grant
Belyn towards the top of Supernova, where it meets with the route Bets...
Belyn towards the top of Supernova, where it meets with the route Bets and I were doing.
Credit: Ney Grant
Brian leading Supersonic.  Awesome.
Brian leading Supersonic. Awesome.
Credit: Ney Grant
Belyn on Supersonic.
Belyn on Supersonic.
Credit: Ney Grant
The classic Willy Nilly with an old school 5.8 rating.  We both lead t...
The classic Willy Nilly with an old school 5.8 rating. We both lead the 5.9 climb to the right of it, Cotton Mouth, and we both agreed the 5.8 face climbing crux of Willy Nilly was much harder.
Credit: Ney Grant
Bets on Moonlight Madness. "Uh, Bets, can you hold it right there whil...
Bets on Moonlight Madness. "Uh, Bets, can you hold it right there while I tie you off and traverse out on a short section of rope so I can get a photo?"
Credit: Ney Grant
Credit: Ney Grant

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Ney Grant
About the Author
Ney is a trad climber from Pollock Pines.

Comments
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Jeremy Ross

Gym climber
  Sep 7, 2017 - 10:35am PT
Nice!
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
  Sep 7, 2017 - 11:06am PT
Awesome! Grey Eagle is a great place to stay cool, especially on the northern end. You got on Intrepid Voyage? if so, what'd ya think?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
  Sep 7, 2017 - 03:25pm PT
Shuteye is awesome!

Climbing with Brian is awesome.

From my brief encounter with Belyn and what Brian says about her she seems awesome.

From what they both say about you and Betsy you guys must be awesome.

I bet it was an awesome weekend, TFPU!
micronut

Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
  Sep 7, 2017 - 03:41pm PT
Credit: micronut




The Wing Feather/Captain Obvious on Gray Eagle is one of my favorites!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
  Sep 7, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
Schweeeeeeeet!!!!
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Sep 7, 2017 - 05:32pm PT
Thanks for the comments!

Mooch - yes we did Intrepid Voyage. Great climb, definitely felt the PG13 rating. Similar to Wing Feather, we had to do a bit of route finding on P2. Both of those climbs are stellar.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
  Sep 7, 2017 - 05:33pm PT
Nice report and pics Ney.
TFPU
Tad
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
  Sep 8, 2017 - 11:27am PT
Awesome, looks like you guys did a ton on the trip. Thanks for the TR.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Sep 8, 2017 - 11:34am PT
Thank you for sharing, wish I could have joined and met you guys. Hopefully next time. Shuteye is supposed to be great during the fall :)
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Sep 8, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
Yes Vitaliy we are looking forward to meeting you as well. It is always fun to follow your adventures and accomplishments!
shylock

Social climber
mb
  Sep 8, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
Ney, try and take it easy on the sprinter next time ok? Glad we got to join you guys! Hope the rest of your trip was awesome.

supernova roof
supernova roof
Credit: shylock
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Sep 9, 2017 - 05:15pm PT
Nice photo!
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
  Sep 9, 2017 - 06:30pm PT
Good stuff, Ney.

Some five-star pics, there.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Sep 10, 2017 - 02:43am PT
Looks wonderful,
Thank you!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Sep 10, 2017 - 08:40am PT
Great pics of what looks like a great time!

Water-wise, did you ever take breaks to explore the nearby rivers to get clean and re-stock the water containers? How are the water levels in fall? Isolated stagnant pools or still flowing?
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Sep 12, 2017 - 09:37am PT
Water-wise, did you ever take breaks to explore the nearby rivers to get clean and re-stock the water containers? How are the water levels in fall? Isolated stagnant pools or still flowing?

There were some small creeks still running here and there, but pretty dry overall. We did use creek water a few times to wash up, but not for potable water. We did stay on one undeveloped campsite near a year round creek, and it was disgusting. Really quite sad the amount of trash and toilet paper around - even in the water. This was near the paved road and wasn't a climber's camp, those up higher were very clean.
Hardrock

Trad climber
San Bernardino
  Oct 3, 2017 - 11:06pm PT
Yes, very nice! Love the area since the mid 90's. Cooler this time of the year.
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
  Oct 4, 2017 - 09:46am PT
I think you walked by our camp Saturday morning of Labor Day! Looks like you had a great trip!
Ney Grant

Trad climber
Pollock Pines
Author's Reply  Oct 4, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
I think you walked by our camp Saturday morning of Labor Day! Looks like you had a great trip!

You had the pickup or SUV at Big Sleep? When we were walking off it looked like a tent and some stuff had been blowing around so we put rocks on them. So if it looked like someone had been messing with your stuff - well it was us.
Nkane

Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
  Oct 4, 2017 - 04:00pm PT
Thanks for that! Skeeters woke me up at 2am and forced me to set up the tent and then I forgot to stake everything down in the morning. Dumb on my part; I should have expected that the same nice breeze that made the climbing bearable in the sun would blow my tent around.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
  Oct 4, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
Climbed there a couple of years ago, loved it...need to go back. Thanks for the tr!
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