Monkeyfinger IV 5.12b

 
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Temple of Sinewava


Zion National Park, Utah, USA


Trip Report
Shune’s Buttress and Monkeyfinger in Zion
Tuesday October 29, 2013 7:04pm
I haven't posted any TR's in a while so here is a throwback to earlier in the year. Make sure to click through at the end for the full TR.

Zion Park Enterance
Zion Park Enterance
Credit: cultureshock

Zion is a magical and adventurous climbing area. For the first time in years, there was a fairly up-to-date guidebook and I was excited to try routes that I had heard so much about. I’m a huge fan of long crack routes and Shune’s Buttress and Monkeyfinger sounded like just my style. The big unknown in Zion is the rock quality. The sandstone ranges from bullet hard to hilarious sugar stone that falls apart instantly. I’m most comfortable in Yosemite and the previous week and a half in Indian Creek and Red Rocks wouldn’t prepare me for some of the “sand” stone I encountered.



Check out the full Trip Report:
http://www.dreaminvertical.com/2013/05/shunes-buttress-and-monkeyfinger-in-zion/

Enjoy,

Luke

  Trip Report Views: 730
cultureshock
About the Author
Luke is a trad climber and occasional runner from Sunnyvale, CA.

Comments
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labrat

Trad climber
Auburn, CA
  Oct 29, 2013 - 07:14pm PT
Enjoyable read.
Thank you!
Erik
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Oct 29, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
Love that place, thank you!!!
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Oct 31, 2013 - 03:27am PT
Thanks for the TR Luke! That monkey finger sure looks like a good time!!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Oct 31, 2013 - 06:54am PT
A nice trip report from a man from my old home town.
Grippa

Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
  Nov 1, 2013 - 05:03pm PT
Got on MF last season, and look to get on Shune's soon! What's up with the last pitch belay Cultureshock? I've heard it's tying off a tiny shrub, and belaying off the hip...any insight?
Rong Glanderson

Social climber
Merndherse, Kneevadder
  Nov 1, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
Woodfords got 12 climbs better than that un! BUt GUd effort!
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Author's Reply  Nov 1, 2013 - 06:08pm PT
One of these days I'll make it to Woodfords. Pretty sure Zion wins in terms of height... Size matters!

I'm not sure how big the shrubs are on top of shunes. My partner belayed me from a good stance so I wouldn't worry about it. It is a really big ledge and there are a lot of bushes. Also the last pitch is 5.9 so really unlikely your partner will fall.

The top anchor for rappelling could use a new bolt, there are three bolts and two are spinners. The next anchor bolts seem solid but have TONS of tat. They could use a pair of rap rings or chains. The next anchor is a big junk show, but with so many bolts it is good enough.

I had planned on re-bolting the whole route, but got rained out on my last visit. We cleaned up about half of the belays, but it still needs some love.

I got permission from one of the FAist to relocate some of the bolted anchors on the lower half of the route. The drilled angles above the 10+ chimney should be pulled and patched and a new anchor should be drilled on the good ledge midway up the pitch. This would eliminate the two hanging belays and allow for rappelling traffic to move through more easily.

 Luke
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Temple of Sinewava - Monkeyfinger IV 5.12b - Zion National Park, Utah, USA. Click to Enlarge
Photo: Bryan Bird
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