Trip Report
Sea of Dreams - october 1997
Wednesday July 31, 2013 9:07am
this is a 42 photos report... enjoy...

Climbers:
Tom McMillan from SF
Armin Fisher from Angwin
Valerio Folco from Aosta (Italy)


This is what I remember at that time…

p1-p2 linked toghether because the first belay was not good
p3 climb the left crack with heads
p4 two pendulums with heads and hooks
p5 Sea classic with friends and heads
p6 “Laura Scudder Flake” is a nice pitch using friends… pendulum and a short expanding section
p7 spicy pitch with many hooks e poor pro... hard pendulum to reach a groove and heads to the belay
p8 Sea classic… hooks and heads
p9 aid not so easy with free climbing at the end…
p10 off width no pro… angles for bealy
p11 “Hook or book”… hard… long hooks traverse to the right… three rivet at the start with hard pendulum to reach a small pocket to hook on the flight… aid climbing masterpiece…
p12 many small heads on this pitch… not easy…
p13 serious aid climbing with hooks, heads and beaks…
p14 “Don’t Skate Mate”… hard… many hooks and small heads…
p15 “Pregrine pillar”… hard… one of the crux pitch… free moves at the start and very difficult aid cimbing for the whole pitch
p16 Sea classic…
p17 “Blue room”… very nice pitch with some finding route problem… reaching “Rurps belay”
p18 “Ace in Space” traverse to the right with small circle heads and many hooks…
p19 “Bull dike”… hard pitch… many sawed-off and poor Alien placements
p20 we chosen for “Price is light variation” instead of the original “9-5”… pitch very steep reaching “Space station” belay
p21 traverse to the right with small circle heads and hooks as usual….
p22 “Peruvian Flake” traverse to the right with a lot of “air”… cool…
p23 Sea classic… long section on hooks, heads, friends, pitons…
p24 last pitch on Sea… finding route problem… some knob tied for climbing… beautifull rock…


my topo
my topo
Credit: Valerio

prepare gear
prepare gear
Credit: Valerio

p1-p2
p1-p2
Credit: Valerio

p3 Armin leading
p3 Armin leading
Credit: Valerio

p4 - Armin
p4 - Armin
Credit: Valerio

p5 - Valerio
p5 - Valerio
Credit: Valerio

p6 - Armin at "Laura Scudder flake" belay
p6 - Armin at "Laura Scudder flake" belay
Credit: Valerio

p6 - Valerio leading
p6 - Valerio leading
Credit: Valerio

p6 - small pendulum
p6 - small pendulum
Credit: Valerio

p7 - old A5 pitch - Tom leading
p7 - old A5 pitch - Tom leading
Credit: Valerio

p7 - Armin cleaning
p7 - Armin cleaning
Credit: Valerio

p8? - I'm not sure... anyway Tom leading
p8? - I'm not sure... anyway Tom leading
Credit: Valerio

p8 - Val waiting...
p8 - Val waiting...
Credit: Valerio

p9 - Armin running on a pendulum
p9 - Armin running on a pendulum
Credit: Valerio

p9 - Tom
p9 - Tom
Credit: Valerio

belay 9 - preparing for "Hook or Book"
belay 9 - preparing for "Hook or Book"
Credit: Valerio

p11 - "Hook or Book" Val leading
p11 - "Hook or Book" Val leading
Credit: Valerio

p11 - Armin try to clean something but there is only one fixed head in...
p11 - Armin try to clean something but there is only one fixed head in the whole pitch...
Credit: Valerio

p12 - many smaaall heads!!! Tom leading
p12 - many smaaall heads!!! Tom leading
Credit: Valerio

Val on "Big Sur"
Val on "Big Sur"
Credit: Valerio

p15 - "Peregrine Pillar" one of the crux pitch... Tom leading
p15 - "Peregrine Pillar" one of the crux pitch... Tom leading
Credit: Valerio

p15 - Tom high on "Peregrine pillar" pitch
p15 - Tom high on "Peregrine pillar" pitch
Credit: Valerio

belay 16
belay 16
Credit: Valerio

belay 16 - Tom smile
belay 16 - Tom smile
Credit: Valerio

p17 - "Blue room" Val leading
p17 - "Blue room" Val leading
Credit: Valerio

p17 - Armin cleaning on a blue rock
p17 - Armin cleaning on a blue rock
Credit: Valerio

belay 17 - Val hanging on "Rurps belay"
belay 17 - Val hanging on "Rurps belay"
Credit: Valerio

p18 - "Ace in space" Tom smiling
p18 - "Ace in space" Tom smiling
Credit: Valerio

p18 - Armin and Val cleaning
p18 - Armin and Val cleaning
Credit: Valerio

p19 - "Bull dike" Armin try to survive to this hard pitch
p19 - "Bull dike" Armin try to survive to this hard pitch
Credit: Valerio

p19 - Armin after "Bull dike" I remember he was so tired
p19 - Armin after "Bull dike" I remember he was so tired
Credit: Valerio

p20 - "Price is light variation" Val leading
p20 - "Price is light variation" Val leading
Credit: Valerio

p20 - steep!!!
p20 - steep!!!
Credit: Valerio

p20 - Tom jumaring in space
p20 - Tom jumaring in space
Credit: Valerio

p20 - Armin cleaning
p20 - Armin cleaning
Credit: Valerio

p21 - Tom on a very small circle heads
p21 - Tom on a very small circle heads
Credit: Valerio

p21 - Armin
p21 - Armin
Credit: Valerio

p22 - "Peruvian flake" Armin
p22 - "Peruvian flake" Armin
Credit: Valerio

p24 - Armin and Tom at the belay
p24 - Armin and Tom at the belay
Credit: Valerio

p25 - Tom leading the last pitch on Sea of Dreams
p25 - Tom leading the last pitch on Sea of Dreams
Credit: Valerio

p25 - Armin jumaring
p25 - Armin jumaring
Credit: Valerio

Val and Armin ready for descent
Val and Armin ready for descent
Credit: Valerio

Tom was happy to come back to home
Tom was happy to come back to home
Credit: Valerio

Tom's home - end of story
Tom's home - end of story
Credit: Valerio

Cheers

Valerio





  Trip Report Views: 1,653
Valerio
About the Author
I'm from Italy - I've climbed some big wall on El Capitan.
Cheers
Valerio

Comments
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Comment on this Trip Report
eKat

Trad climber
  Jul 31, 2013 - 09:13am PT
VeryNice!

TFPU!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Canada
  Jul 31, 2013 - 09:33am PT
Thanks Valerio !
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
  Jul 31, 2013 - 09:37am PT
Love it!

Especially the picture of Armin cleaning P7.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Jul 31, 2013 - 09:54am PT
Cool!
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
  Jul 31, 2013 - 10:08am PT
nice, tfpu
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
  Jul 31, 2013 - 12:56pm PT
Great TR Valerio!

Thanks for taking the time to put it together and share your fun with us.

How did you team up with Armin and Tom for this climb?
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Jul 31, 2013 - 01:13pm PT
Hi,
thanks to all for your reply...

Mark
thank you for your "picasa web album" very nice job...

Steve
Armin is a friend, he lives near my home here in Italy, and he knew Tom for a long time...
...after SOD Tom climbed with me on Reticent and Tempest too...

Cheers
Valerio
skywalker

climber
  Jul 31, 2013 - 01:46pm PT
Holy sh#t that was cool! TFPU!

S...
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
  Jul 31, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Wow!

Not exactly an El Cap "trade route".

Thanks for the stoke!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
  Jul 31, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
Thanks for the great TR V!

Rarely done indeed.
Paul Brennan

Trad climber
Ireland
  Jul 31, 2013 - 06:15pm PT
As far as aid routes go, SOD looks like a sexy beast. Good report, great photos. Thank you Valerio.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
  Jul 31, 2013 - 09:07pm PT
Nice photos, Val! Great route, eh? I really enjoyed the climbing through the diorite.

Me and Nick and Ammon and Gabe and Chongo enjoyed the Great Big Sur Keg Party - good times! We were up there in spring 01.

Hey - what are you doing this fall, Valerio? Let's climb something on El Cap. I need a partner for my 50th route! Experience preferred, otherwise Frequent Flyer Points will work!

Yous know how to reach me, eh?

Also, did you ever post photos for your Second Ascent of Richard Jensen's "Winds of Change"? I would love to hear about that! I understand the hooking on the first pitch is of WoS standard!
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
  Jul 31, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
That is an awesome ascent you guys! Some steep continuous route that is.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
  Jul 31, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
Terrific, Val. Thanks very much for posting this thread. What a wall.
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 1, 2013 - 07:55am PT
Thank you again guys, you are so kind as usual...
is a real pleasure for me to share my TR ... you have the most beautiful place in the world to climb ... I have no doubts...

Mucci
nice to hear from you...

Pete
SOD is the most beautiful line on El Cap for me... diorite section is amazing!!!
thanks Pete but I do not climb more since 2005... only a few free climbing for fun...

about WOC see this thread

Val
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
  Aug 1, 2013 - 01:43pm PT
Nice and steep!

TFPU
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
  Aug 1, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
Thanks for the pics. SOD is some quality aid climbing. Did it in 95 and have no pics so this was really fun to look through.

BTW, anyone know if the FA version to "Price is Light" has ever been found and repeated?

EDIT: (next post) I think that's what its called. Pitch after Bull Dike.
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2013 - 10:11am PT
Frank,
you mean the "9-5" pitch?


I've heard that Silvia Vidal had climbed the "9-5" pitch

Val
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
  Aug 1, 2013 - 02:13pm PT
Valerio!

nice, as usual, you come in with the good visuals!

In particular, I like the p21 pics, and the Rurp belay.

There really is something mythic about Double D's pic and as a result all subsequent pics of the Rurp Belay on SOD.

I'll never get that good, but I enjoy hearing about other's experiences on stuff like this.

thx!
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 1, 2013 - 02:32pm PT
thanks Munge,
I think that every photo on SOD is legendary because the way it is... then the diorite makes them even more beautiful

Val
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
  Aug 1, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
THANK YOU
nopantsben

climber
  Aug 2, 2013 - 10:14am PT
super nice, thank you!!
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
  Aug 2, 2013 - 10:18am PT
Great report! Just curious, the climb was true a4 for you guys. Has it eased up in the last 15 years?
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2013 - 10:30am PT
Marty,
at that time SOD was already A4 but for us it was very hard...

Reticent for example is more strenuous and has very long pitches but for me the technical difficult is very similar between the two routes

Val
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Aug 2, 2013 - 11:30am PT
So that now begs the question of: Whose understanding of A4? Routes like Zenyatra Mondatta, Lost in America, Iron Hawk, the Sea and Reticent are all rated A4 in the SuperTopo Giude. What's the difference? What should be the real rating of those routes?
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2013 - 12:05pm PT
Mark,
this is a million dollars question...I don't have the answer. I think that the aid rating is an inexact science and rate a pitch A4 or A5 is very subjective.

Val
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
  Aug 2, 2013 - 12:59pm PT
Nice photos! I really liked this route, one of the best I've done. Here's a link to our ascent pics.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=208845&tn=0&mr=0

Enjoy!
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 2, 2013 - 01:06pm PT
Levy,
fantastic photos!!! I did not know that thread... thank you

Val
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
  Aug 2, 2013 - 03:54pm PT
Yeah, that was a nice tick but I gotta say it was a bit too extreme to be truly fun. S.O.D. was my 25 different route on El Cap and by far the loosest and most dangerous. - Levy

I think I'm going to take it off even my "maybe one of these days" list after reading that.
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 5, 2013 - 07:01am PT
and if it was "one of my dreams"? Would you go?

Val
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
  Aug 5, 2013 - 07:06am PT
A great old TR. TFPU!
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
  Aug 5, 2013 - 07:45pm PT
Cool! Thank you!!!
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
  Aug 6, 2013 - 02:54am PT
Nice!

Here're a couple of pics of Tom in far gentler territory on Manure Pile on a partly rainy day in 2011:




If you're out there lurking, I hope you're doing well.
Valerio

climber
Author's Reply  Aug 6, 2013 - 06:12am PT
NutAgain,
thank you for the photos,
nice to see Tom ... we write by email a few times ...for me is a true friend... with Tom on El Cap we had some very difficult and beautiful moments...

Val
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