Trip Report
"Scrambles in the Range of Light"
Sunday July 23, 2006 10:50am

Ramp up Yer Scanners Kidz!
I know you got the goods,
So 'Git Teh Werk Please...

Mt Lyell,
During a 20 hr day,
From TMeadows,
Over Amelia Earhart,
Maclure, then Lyell and stuff in between...

Tim Messick
3rd class ridge towards Maclure:

Dog Tired,
Maclure Summit:

  Trip Report Views: 2,413
Tarbuster
About the Author
Tarbuster is a climber from right here, right now.

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Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 10:52am PT
Besides goin' up Lyell Canyon,
Here's the ridges:

Lyell right of center, the rockier cone of Maclure right again.
You can see Banner and Ritter on the far left.

L to R,
Amelia Earhart, Lyell, Maclure:

This pic jumbles the order of the traverse,
Lyell is the prominent snowy peak at center and the finish.
yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
  Jul 23, 2006 - 10:57am PT
Earnhardt/Maclure/Lyell--egads, that's the Jaybro Trifecta!

Good call, Tar. Back in a sec.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 10:57am PT
Here's where we "got on"
At the col left of Amelia Earhart:

She's a Beauty; with broad geometric flanks.

The surrounding basin:


On the way to Maclure & Lyell,
(Gotta' turn left first):

This is from Earhart's Summit.
You can just barely see Tim at the center of foreground.

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 10:59am PT
Looking toward Maclure and Lyell, to the East:


We broke out the 9 mil and some big hexes for Maclure's 4th class:


We left the gas station at 4am,
"Rat Room" guides shack actually,
Stumbled back in at midnight.

It's a long march out!
yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:05am PT
Some fellers from SoCal doing the Sun Ribbon Toss.


More Temple
yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:18am PT
Cathedral Peak Bacon Fry, 7/21/06


*sizzle*



*bzzzzt*
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:21am PT
Tar, I did that exact day, back in '99 or so I always wondered if anybody else had done that car to car in a day. Now I know!
Coolness is!

I put it in the book, for Jaun!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:26am PT
Gee that's swell!
Maybe we did it around then too...
'97 - '99 or something.

Banner's N Ridge is next on my pie list!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:30am PT
Take an axe, think about crampons!


Banner
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:42am PT
No doubt!

This is why I recommend real boots for peak bagging.
I had a light ax and the Robbins boots allowed a nice stiff kick in the snowfield on Mount Lyell.
Perfunctory, straightforward style of ascent.

Tim on the other hand, had a Ramer self arrest pole and medium weight running shoes; he had to muck around on the edge of the snow while intermittently holding onto the rock. He is mountain wise, and I knew he'd be OK, but he agreed an ax to plunge and stiff boots to kick steps are nice.

Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
  Jul 23, 2006 - 12:11pm PT
Banner North Face


Liz Summit of Dana




No sierra summer trip is complete without taking time out for 'ritas on the beach!

And, Roy I found you


a new Kuh boy hat!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 12:19pm PT
Ahh Ain't No Flatlander!
Blitzo

Social climber
Earth
  Jul 23, 2006 - 01:29pm PT
Gibbs.



Dana summit.



You figure them out.







Up on Humphreys.



Williamson summit.



Tyndall.



Tyndall Williamson area.



Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
  Jul 23, 2006 - 01:40pm PT
Awesome pics!

Yo, love your "sizzle" captions...I almost start crying when getting attacked by lightning...I hate that stuff.

Banner North Ridge is awesome. I soloed some of it several years ago before downclimbing to the glacier and taking it to the notch. Didn't have ice axe or crampons with me so any slip would have meant a dip in that Lake Catherine after a long slide. Here some pics my dad took of me on that little jaunt.


Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 23, 2006 - 02:08pm PT
Moon Goddess arete on Temple Crag (left)

Third Lake from up on Moon Goddess arete.
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 23, 2006 - 02:34pm PT
On the Swiss Arete about 15 yrs ago...

The twin summits of Thunderbolt Pk. True summit is the one on the right...

Mt Winchell and Mt Aggaziz...

Skinning a chicken on Polymoium Peak...

Sierra Wave from Brainard Lake...
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 23, 2006 - 04:13pm PT
The North Face of Mt Mendel...

Captain Scott Cole in the right Mendel Col about 20 years ago...

Sorry about the quality of all these, but I'm scanning prints or slides that have been collecting dust for 20 years or more.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
Awesome Dudes!

Mendel Couloir:
for those who missed the ice 9 thread,







All photos Sean Curtis.
1981.
My buddy, who went down (up) the big pipeline in the sky.

Jody

climber
Occupied Territory
  Jul 23, 2006 - 04:41pm PT
Some of these are little more than mere "scrambles".

I love these photos!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
  Jul 23, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
Descending the crux chockstone on the Le Conte route North Pal. It was a low snow year and closer to 5.8 (only a couple of moves) than 4th on the way up.



North Pal again. This time the U Notch.



On The West side route on Starlight, (reputedly 4th class)



The 3rd class traverse on Starlight.



The imfamous "milk bottle" The wind was a howlin, didn't get on top of it.



Black Bart descending Polemonium


Muir and Whitney on a 4-teener attempt. (Langley to Russell). It started snowing at Muir and we bailed down the tourist trail.



Don and Bill at the fresh air traverse, Whitney



Cruuzzin on Mathes



Cruuzin on Tennia




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:04pm PT
Sweet TGT!
Sweet.
More Please.

I think Richard speaks truth.
No matter.
Post on Charlemagne.
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:14pm PT
The best way to deal with the U-Notch bergschrund...

Climbing the east face of Mt Muir in 1973...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:19pm PT
Skinny skis!
That is so proud.

Let's see that on V Notch.
Gauntlet down.

Tarbousier.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:20pm PT
We were attempting North Pal, Still haven't got Middle, (long story) so the slip. Yes that's Gayley back across the glacier.

Here's Middle



I'm fascinated by this side of the Palasades. just wish I'd discovered it 20 years earlier whe I'd had a chance at some of those aretes.



More Tennia



More Mathes






Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
That photograph of the Middle Palisade is to die for!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:36pm PT
Split from the saddle with Prather.


Descending the 2nd class route was the closest I ever came to killin myself, my partner, and a disinterested third party on the snow patch below. Had a block the size of an upright piano come off just as I steped out from in front of it.



The classic shot of Split.

Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:41pm PT
Long lake in the Middle-Pal drainage with the Thumb? on the upper right...EDIT: oopsie -- I meant upper left.

... and 2 views of Norman Clyde Peak (anyone who carries cast iron skillets into the high country is my hero)...

yo

climber
Mudcat Spire
  Jul 23, 2006 - 05:46pm PT
These are delicious, boys.
Chaz

Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
  Jul 23, 2006 - 11:46pm PT
Just a Bump.

Because this is bitchen sh-t!
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 24, 2006 - 08:23am PT
love your "sizzle" captions...

A fun lightning story...
Me and a droog decided to do the SE Butt on Cathedral one summer back in the 70's and though the thunder bumpers were materializing every afternoon, we decided to get and early start and go light, figuring we could get off quickly and easily enough if the deluge came.
Sure enough, as we got close to the summit it started to rain and by the time we got back to the base we were soaked and shivering and scared -- the lightning was very close, hitting all around us and the thunder was deafening, sending shivers up my spine with every bolt. Then a bolt zapped a small group of trees in the saddle between Cathedral and the Echo peaks about 200 yards from us, setting the trees on fire.

So, in our mind numbing freeze and going with the "lightning never strikes twice" theory/myth, we ran right over there, warmed up and dried out our clothes while the storm passed. Perhaps the coolest campfire I've ever had.
Cathedral Peak from the Echo peaks (different trip).
telemama

Trad climber
  Jul 24, 2006 - 09:01am PT
Thanks, Roy, for the pics.
And the chuckle...

"This is why I recommend real boots for peak bagging... Tim on the other hand, had a Ramer self arrest pole and medium weight running shoes; he had to muck around on the edge of the snow while intermittently holding onto the rock.He is mountain wise so I knew he'd be OK, but he agreed an ax to plunge and stiff boots are nice."

LOL. That's our Tim for ya. He'd still be skiing chutes in snowfields if ya let him! As is, he thinks his T3s are "just fine". "It's all about Technique." Is what he would say. He's a minimalist and ya gotta love him for it.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Jul 24, 2006 - 09:12am PT
So many great photos!

Here's my only good one, Mt. Humphreys:
Mike.

climber
  Jul 24, 2006 - 10:17am PT
What a vein of gold. Killer posts, y'all.


A meager offering, Bear Creek "Spire," East Ridge:



With about 17 lakes in the background. Not sure what the ol' lady was doing out there. Meditation...?
BCD

Mountain climber
Bradley, CA
  Jul 24, 2006 - 10:49am PT
I only have winter photos available right now....














Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2006 - 04:24pm PT
Er, um...
*bump*

Note Claude's knatty knickers and dapper kronies.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Jul 24, 2006 - 05:59pm PT


goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jul 24, 2006 - 07:25pm PT
"mmm...which way back to the car...

north to Longs...




no east always east, down,down,down here comes da rain!"

Tar,
I'm guessing your running up in your backyard tween waitin for the dialup to dialdown.
Yah gotta love Audubon for a quickie.



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 24, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
Methinks you 'jus got cross posted Goatboy!
No matter,
Ya just reminded me of some slides fer that Rockies thread-a-mick-bobber.

There, there, this'll right the ship back inta' the High Sierra:

Top of the Unicorn:

Me 'N Messick climbed an 'Ole 5.9 A3 route: Direct N Face.
Felt like a 10c Lieback Teh Me...
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jul 25, 2006 - 05:05am PT
Nope did it on purpose. Keeping "Primetime" thread for the here and now.
"Scrambled Light" for what ever I discover in the old photo box.

Also tryin to bump all that political stuff off the main page... help me kids, post away.
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 25, 2006 - 09:00am PT
South Face of Mt Russell...

Chicken Skinner atop Polymonium Peak at sunset...

Two views of a little "scramble" at Whitney Portal, mid-80's...

goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jul 25, 2006 - 10:35am PT
go large go!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 25, 2006 - 10:47am PT
...and after the sunset atop the palisades richard large,
then what did y'all do?
Richard Large

climber
sneaking up behind you...
  Jul 25, 2006 - 11:40am PT
Tarbaby: We summited North Pal and then we almost died descending to the west in the loosest and most dangerous gully I've ever set foot in. An epic of chopped ropes and destroyed gear. Sometimes ya gotta feel lucky to still be alive.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 26, 2006 - 07:11am PT
I figured there must be an epic story there.

For our 16th birthdays, my best buddy and I did a grand tour, starting at Lamark Col where we skipped Mendel couloir due to snail eye, down into the evolutions, eventually over Agassiz Col and finally up the U Notch.

After summiting North Pal, we descended the backside of the U Notch, because we were slow, and it was late in the day. The day before, we had seen freight train car sized blocks coming down the U Notch and we did not want to be there in soft conditions.

So we bivied below in the Palisade Basin. Then we hoofed it all way around to the east side of Mt Sill and made a series of rappels next to the V Notch.

Sometimes, you gotta take a break between scrambles, have a glass of wine, think about past scrambles and plans some new ones with your buddies.






I had just scrambled from Tioga pass, following the ridge to Jagged Peak, ending up at Lembert Dome.

You can see a piece of the ridge above Carol, Tom, and Chuck in this picture. Here, we were on a walk out to the old rescue site out behind Soda Springs.
TYeary

Social climber
State of decay
  Jul 26, 2006 - 08:04am PT
Very, very cool! Great pics and they jar so many of my own memories of days in the Sierra. Wondering, has anyone done the splitter crack up the face of the Ibirium Tower on the Moon Goddess?
Keep those pics comming untill yer scanner burns out! Thanks,
Tony
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 26, 2006 - 08:28pm PT

Here is a Little Stroll,
A Road Less Traveled-
From Tioga Pass down to the Meadows:

Taken from the top of Lembert,
You can see a ridge that carries from Tioga pass,
With Mt Dana on the right,
All the way to ragged peak on the left.

It starts on the trail,
But follows it only a short while
Before heading north to connect to the Ridge.

Lions Head Rock?
Also Mt Dana are seen across the way
From the traihead at the pass.

Most of it is a walk,
This is looking back at some of the easy third class terrain,
From the middle of the traverse:
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 26, 2006 - 08:30pm PT

You get some nice views of Mount Conness:





Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 26, 2006 - 08:32pm PT

A view of the big sidewalk in the sky,
heading out toward Ragged Peak,
then down to a trail,
and out to Lembert:
dmalloy

Trad climber
eastside
  Jul 26, 2006 - 10:36pm PT
Middle Pal...the easy way up



and the easy way down

dmalloy

Trad climber
eastside
  Jul 26, 2006 - 10:41pm PT
and since this thread is already too wide for my little ole screen...I'll add pano

dmalloy

Trad climber
eastside
  Jul 26, 2006 - 10:46pm PT
SE Face of Emerson...



Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
  Jul 27, 2006 - 05:48am PT
What a great thread. Wish I had more to contribute.

Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
  Jul 27, 2006 - 06:49am PT
Nice shots of Emerson, sort of an under-rated peak.

On the way to Conness:
bubble boy

Big Wall climber
Mammoth, CA
  Jul 27, 2006 - 06:51am PT
Nice pics!!! Share the wealth!

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3665387648981765075&q=middle+palisade



peace!
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Jul 27, 2006 - 02:05pm PT

Cross country skiing in the Gros Ventre Range, Wyoming
rbolton

Social climber
The home for...
  Jul 27, 2006 - 04:06pm PT
Back to the Range of light:

Partying with Gnarlton on the North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak.










Gnarlton down off the Mithral
BCD

Mountain climber
Bradley, CA
  Jul 27, 2006 - 06:52pm PT
more winter....

Mountaineers Route:


Bloody Mountain:


Mammoth:



and a few from today.....




Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 27, 2006 - 07:14pm PT
Nice BCD,
And wait just a darned tootin' minute pahdner,
Whut's that rock wall 2 pics north?
BCD

Mountain climber
Bradley, CA
  Jul 27, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
that's the south face of Conness, taken from the west ridge.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 27, 2006 - 07:51pm PT
oh shoot.
And I 'been on it too.

Up high, 'doin the traverse after the OW, 6" of hail piled up around my feets and we bailed.

Cheers,
Tarbousier.
WBraun

climber
  Jul 27, 2006 - 08:04pm PT
Sh#t Tar

You've been everywhere, and still not satisfied?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jul 28, 2006 - 07:48pm PT
don't try teh trick me werner...

here's the new thread, part 2:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=229492&f=0&b=0#msg229608
andanother

climber
  Jan 28, 2007 - 06:45pm PT
mid winter bump
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Jan 28, 2007 - 10:06pm PT
"Mt Lyell,
"During a 20 hr day,
From TMeadows,
Over Amelia Earhart,
Maclure, then Lyell and stuff in between... "

Libb Eee Doe.
You guys are SO light. I did the EXACT same routes in my dreams, one hand tied behind my back and a can of WD-40 in the other. Just the fact that Messick was your partner makes the whole thing HIGHLY improbable, but probably probeable. Jeezus, talk about "forward into the past" Now I am gonna have to listen to the Front Royal Kid relive his glory days for ever and ever ad nauseum. But, no really, thanks for the TR. You guys are SO light!!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Author's Reply  Jan 28, 2007 - 10:09pm PT
Well said.
Flashlight

climber
  Sep 6, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
Another great thread!
divad

Trad climber
wmass
  Sep 6, 2008 - 03:01pm PT
Spectacular, thanks again for the bump.
philo

Trad climber
Is that light the end of the tunnel or a train?
  Oct 4, 2010 - 08:49am PT
Bump fer all them purty pics.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
  Oct 4, 2010 - 09:20am PT
a few pics from Mendal Right, back in 77 with Dave Nettle.
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
from the summit of Mendal
from the summit of Mendal
Credit: can't say
Credit: can't say
goatboy smellz

climber
लघिमा
  Oct 5, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
Wow Roy this must be one of your first TR, before you got all cocky.:)
Nibs

Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
  Jun 5, 2013 - 05:43pm PT
BBST
for the psyche! Thank you, tarbuster.
Cracko

Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
  Jun 5, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
Wow !! BBST Like!
SalNichols

Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
  Jun 5, 2013 - 06:43pm PT
Oh man, I have to scan my slides. These are great, thanx.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
  Jun 5, 2013 - 07:12pm PT
Woah! Killer TR/thread

Charlie on the NW ridge of Tbolt
Charlie on the NW ridge of Tbolt
Credit: RyanD

Not too many better ways to spend ur time than scrambling in the range of light.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
  Jun 5, 2013 - 07:55pm PT
Holy Pictures Batman!!!!!111

this thread is mad bitchin'!

Richard Large...sick photos man!


go BBST!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
  Jun 14, 2013 - 08:10am PT
Mono Lake
Mono Lake
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Darwin and Mendel
Darwin and Mendel
Credit: Vitaliy M.

Max on Mendel Right
Max on Mendel Right
Credit: Vitaliy M.

View of Mt. Darwin from the summit
View of Mt. Darwin from the summit
Credit: Vitaliy M.
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
  Jun 14, 2013 - 02:56pm PT
TFPU nice
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Jun 14, 2013 - 03:56pm PT
Cathedral Range


Dana Couloir


Matterhorn Peak


E Buttress Mt Whitney, Photo Bill McC
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
  Jun 14, 2013 - 09:41pm PT
A few snapshots of some ramblings digitized:

From summit of 12002 - Sharsmith Peak - A favorite for Me & Swilliam
From summit of 12002 - Sharsmith Peak - A favorite for Me & Swilliam
Credit: TMJesse

"Inkwell Lake" beneath Simmons Peak
"Inkwell Lake" beneath Simmons Peak
Credit: TMJesse

Gallison Basin
Gallison Basin
Credit: TMJesse

Cathedral Crosscountry Backpack Adventure
Cathedral Crosscountry Backpack Adventure
Credit: TMJesse

Agassiz - Knapsack - Potluck - Scimitar Loop
Agassiz - Knapsack - Potluck - Scimitar Loop
Credit: TMJesse
eKat

Trad climber
Less than a second shy of 49 minutes
  Nov 11, 2013 - 05:05pm PT
BBST!

(As a reminder = BBST = donini for Bump for a Better SuperTopo)
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
  Nov 11, 2013 - 05:26pm PT
AHHHHHHHH, A good ol' Tarbuster TR!!

Much missed brother.



Monitor Pass.
Credit: survival









Credit: survival
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Nov 11, 2013 - 05:41pm PT
Whitney at sunset


N Palisades


U Notch


Matterhorn Peak



North Peak


Dana Couloir
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
  Nov 11, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
Forgotabout this awesome thread.
Tammi Smith at Lake Catherine on the way up to Banner Peak
Tammi Smith at Lake Catherine on the way up to Banner Peak
Credit: Walleye
TMJesse

Mountain climber
Olympia, WA
  Nov 11, 2013 - 07:59pm PT
From the 1986 Kalatarian SAR on Mt. Clark with a whole troop of us herein. We were flown to the base where we fanned out to feast on a veritable smorgasbord of seemingly untouched rock on the west face before a fine gathering at the summit. After our flight down, a YOSAR/Lodge cafeteria ticket for each gave weight to trays laden with double entrees, jello salads and whatnot.

Credit: TMJesse
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
  Nov 11, 2013 - 08:16pm PT
Credit: StahlBro
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
  Nov 12, 2013 - 08:38am PT
Gaylor Lake


Cathedral Peak from Gaylor Lake


North Ridge, Mt Conness (photo Bill McC)
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
  Nov 12, 2013 - 08:42am PT
There's too much good stuff in here to let it slide.

BUMP.

Steve
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